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Someflyers
03-25-2014, 12:22 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/25/8ydyte7e.jpg
I hope the pic posts correctly (my first one).

First casting session went fairly well (I think...) The learning curve was steep beyond anything I would have thought, and I'm pretty sure it's just starting (I'm sure I don't know what I don't know!).

Thank you to all the people here that parcel out the nuggets of information that us nubes need to get started in this sickness. You have no idea how many lurkers are out there soaking up the words of wisdom you all post.

Now let's see if the Kimber likes the little snacks I intend to feed it. If not, I'm sure there's another mould, or sizing die, or powder I can buy to make it sing!! Let the trials begin...

tazman
03-25-2014, 12:41 AM
Excellent looking boolits. I applaud your enthusiasm. Let us know how the rest of the testing goes.

Pb2au
03-25-2014, 03:30 AM
Looks like the real deal. What is the lube you are using?

Slow Elk 45/70
03-25-2014, 03:36 AM
Welcome to the Insanity , nice looking boolits for the first try. Mine were not that nice about 50 years ago, if I remember ......give us some more info after you shoot them. If you have been lurking and listening, you may not have any issues...if you do, be sure you describe the problem and you won't get a lot of :groner: answers, if you get my drift.

Good Luck and good casting/Shooting....remember to have FUN!! Jim

Someflyers
03-25-2014, 08:34 AM
Pb2au they are from an RCBS mould I scored used (.45-201 SWC) lubed with Randy's TAC-1.

Hickok
03-25-2014, 08:40 AM
Great looking boolits!

I have been using Tac 1 for awhile now, and it is excellent loob. I ordered a bunch more!

Those boolits are nice and silver, werewolf killers for sure!

Walter Laich
03-25-2014, 08:50 AM
Does TAC-1 need heat to work?

1989toddm
03-25-2014, 09:40 AM
Thank you to all the people here that parcel out the nuggets of information that us nubes need to get started in this sickness. You have no idea how many lurkers are out there soaking up the words of wisdom you all post.

Amen! So much knowledge and experience here.

SSGOldfart
03-25-2014, 09:46 AM
Sweet looking good:bigsmyl2:

Hickok
03-25-2014, 10:26 AM
Walter, I find I need no heat in my Lyman 450 at room temperature. Tac 1 flows for me the same as Javelina 50/50.

Doc Highwall
03-25-2014, 10:26 AM
Someflyers, the bullets look great except for the bump where the sprue is. Two things that will help that is make sure the hole in the sprue plate is sharp and apply downward pressure on the sprue plate when you cut the sprue. The bump does not mean as much for a plain base bullet but will make it harder to seat a gas check when there is a bump like that.

Again nice bullets for a new caster.

osteodoc08
03-25-2014, 10:27 AM
Does TAC-1 need heat to work?

No. His Tac-2 will though. You've gotta be special and ask for that stuff :bigsmyl2:

I've been experimenting with Tac-1 and Tac-2. So far I find the Tac-1 does what I need it to do without having to add heat. It isnt as sticky as the LBT Blue I've been using for years and leaves the barrel nice and shiny. The real test will be in the GA summer heat.

OP, love the handle name BTW. Excellent looking boolits. I'd be proud of those. Keep up the good work.

Someflyers
03-25-2014, 10:33 AM
Does TAC-1 need heat to work?

Most on here say "no" but my basement shop has been a little cool here in IL this winter. I plugged my sizer in for just shy of ten minutes and then unplugged it just to loosen it up a bit. Under normal circumstances I don't think it would need any heat at all.

Foto Joe
03-25-2014, 10:41 AM
So I'll step in here and ask a stoopid question...

What if any advantage to you get using Tac-1 for instance over let's say Lyman Alox or an NRA 50/50 lube.

And congrats on getting yourself hooked on melting lead into useful objects. That mold was a good score.

Someflyers
03-25-2014, 10:41 AM
Someflyers, the bullets look great except for the bump where the sprue is. Two things that will help that is make sure the hole in the sprue plate is sharp and apply downward pressure on the sprue plate when you cut the sprue. The bump does not mean as much for a plain base bullet but will make it harder to seat a gas check when there is a bump like that.

Again nice bullets for a new caster.

Thanks! I just looked at the sprue plate and realized there is a set screw that holds the bolt in a desired position.....it was almost completely out of the hole. I would assume if I set the bolt down a little farther in the mould block and tighten the set screw this would solve that problem. Huh! More learning!

osteodoc08
03-25-2014, 10:49 AM
So I'll step in here and ask a stoopid question...

What if any advantage to you get using Tac-1 for instance over let's say Lyman Alox or an NRA 50/50 lube.

And congrats on getting yourself hooked on melting lead into useful objects. That mold was a good score.

For one, COST. Were talking $2/stick vs $5/stick (Midway price on Lyman Alox sticks)

I'm not sure what RR puts in his TAC products, but they smell nice and look good and perform very well so far for me. Plus theyre my favorite color-GREEN. I havent found any down sides to his lube so far and am very pleased. Not that others wouldnt work, but for right now is my preference.

Don Purcell
03-25-2014, 11:05 AM
Someflyers, you go to the head of the class. Those are really nice and that mold and 1911's were made for each other. Used it 30 years ago in IPSC matches, very accurate and reliable.

Someflyers
03-25-2014, 11:47 AM
Ok, Ok....I have to fess up. I was in the garage trying to cast these boolits and having a rough time (all of them looked poor dropping from the mold). My wife the chemist, walks by to take the dog for a walk, picks up one boolit, looks at it for about a second throws it back in the pot and says "turn the heat up" and walks away! Five minutes later, viola! Nice boolits!!

True story.....moral of the story is that everyone (including someone who has never done it before!) knows more about melting lead than I do!

Foto Joe
03-25-2014, 12:52 PM
Someflyers, what are you using for alloy COWW's, store bought lead or other?

Cloudwraith
03-25-2014, 01:23 PM
Those look great! I just cast my first ones last weekend so I know the "sickness" that is setting root :)

Someflyers
03-25-2014, 03:42 PM
Someflyers, what are you using for alloy COWW's, store bought lead or other?
I have a buddy that works at a metal recycleing center that calls when they have scrap soft lead and my wife got me what I asked for last Christmas (Linotype !), a little 70/30 bar solder and pretend I'm the wicked witch of the west with my cauldron in the back barn!!!

Close as I can figure its very close to COWW + 2% Sn.....maybe around 10-11BHN (closer to 10 if I plugged everything into the spreadsheet correctly.)

Doc Highwall
03-25-2014, 08:26 PM
The sprue plate should be able to swing freely by it's own weight when the mould is up to casting temperature. Too tight of a sprue plate can cause the bases of the bullets not to fill out.

Someflyers
03-25-2014, 11:42 PM
The sprue plate should be able to swing freely by it's own weight when the mould is up to casting temperature. Too tight of a sprue plate can cause the bases of the bullets not to fill out.

So what you're saying is moderation is the key but put a little downward pressure on the sprue plate when cutting the sprue....got it. Thanks

Doc Highwall
03-26-2014, 01:03 AM
When I cast I have a hot plate from Walmart that I have a thermometer stuck into a aluminum plate that everything sits on. I set the mould on the plate along with extra alloy to a temperature of roughly 320 degrees (depends on mould and alloy being cast) and I have a PID unit to keep the pot at the casting temperature the alloy requires. I pour lead into the mould and when I see the sprue change color I count one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three then I use just my hand with a heavy glove on I squeeze the sprue plate down onto the mould and twist at the same time to cut the sprue. Timing along with a sharp hole in the sprue plate helps tremendously.

Catshooter
03-26-2014, 03:00 AM
Someflyers,

I disagree that the sprue plate should swing of it's own weight. I don't want to beat the snot out of it to get it to move, but free swinging is bad in my book. I agree about the sharp hole. Try both, see which you like.

I too live in fly over country. Your not near Sioux Falls are you? If you're not to far we can get together, maybe I could help a bit.

Welcome to the forum.


Cat

smokeywolf
03-26-2014, 03:28 AM
Someflyers,

A great, really great first batch.

smokeywolf

zuke
03-26-2014, 05:24 AM
Welcome to the nightmare!

Someflyers
03-27-2014, 10:10 AM
Someflyers,

I too live in fly over country. Your not near Sioux Falls are you? If you're not to far we can get together, maybe I could help a bit.


Cat

Catshooter, nope I'm quite a bit farther east. I'm in northern IL where you can buy a lead brick from a foundry but if that same lead brick is formed into lead projectiles (not loaded into cases, just the projectiles themselves!) then you need permission from the state to purchase them......I appreciate the offer though, I would take you up on it!