Finally decided to get an electric casting furnace. Need recommendation.

[Flintlock Hokie]

Using $10 worth of Coleman fuel to save $5 on the few decent round balls I end up with each session isn't good economics. I struggle to maintain a good temperature so I get a lousy percentage of good balls. Time to invest in an electric pot! But which one?

I am quite content to cast with a ladle and have a Lyman ladle. Also I can't spend several hundred dollars on a furnace. Something like the Lyman 10 lb Big Dipper seems like it would suit my needs. Anyone have any experience with this furnace? Any other recommendations?

Thanks!

[bangerjim]

$65 will get you a Lee 4-20 bottom pour. I have 2 of them and highly recommend them. I rarely use my RCBS ladle anymore, as the bottom pour pot is so easy to use and throws perfect boolits....without a thermometer or a PID-based controller!!!!!!!

Worth every penny. I cannot comprehend why anyone today is still using gasoline or propane in a camping stove to melt lead. Fuel is so expensive and the results are not that good/repeatable.

Take a look at the several fine vendors at the top of the page!


Good luck!!!!

bangerjim

[Flintlock Hokie]

Any trouble with leaks or pluggage?

[ghh3rd]

My Lee 20 lb does drip slowly, but I can usually get it to stop by spinning the stopper around a few times. It's worth the convenience of having a bottom pour for the molds that like to be filled that way. I would recommend getting the 20 lb rather than the 10 lb, or you will be adding lead to the melt more often, making it hard to keep a constant temperature.

[Mk42gunner]

My Lee 20 lb does drip slowly, but I can usually get it to stop by spinning the stopper around a few times. It's worth the convenience of having a bottom pour for the molds that like to be filled that way. I would recommend getting the 20 lb rather than the 10 lb, or you will be adding lead to the melt more often, making it hard to keep a constant temperature.

What he said.

The 4-20 can be easily ladled from too. I probably ladled more boolits from my 4-20 than I bottom poured.

Mine did drip slowly, but it would eventually build up into a four inch high piece of drip art to plug the nozzle that self limited how much it leaked.

I've got a RCBS Promelt now, (bought used) and I like it; but I don't think it is worth 4 to 5 times what the Lee is worth.

Robert

[bbqncigars]

Go for a Waage if you're ladle casting.

['74 sharps]

The Lee 20# ladle pour pot doesn't cost much, and works great.

[Cmm_3940]

Lee 4-20. The price is right. If you decide you don't like the drippy spout and want to ladle, take the valve hardware out and plug up the hole with a screw.

[Sasquatch-1]

Here again I agree with the people who are suggesting the Lee bottom pour pots. I also would go for a 20 pound pot over the 10. You can REDUCE the dripping by getting some valve grinding compound from an auto parts store and lapping the valve and plug together.

[Flintlock Hokie]

I just ordered the Lee Pro 4 20lb melter! Thanks for the help.

[bangerjim]

Any trouble with leaks or pluggage?

Absolutely ZERO drips or leaks.........EVER. I cannot understand why so many bitch and moan about these leaking. Most leaks are caused by melting dirty lead in them and the gunk getting stuck in the spout. No sawdust in the casting pot.....only beeswax.....my rule and it DOES work.....NO LEAKS! I have not seen the bottom of those pots in years. I always leave them at 80-90% full for the next fun session!

Just always insure your ingots are 100% clean and use only beeswax to reduce tin back in.

bangerjim

[cbrick]

Absolutely ZERO drips or leaks.........EVER. I cannot understand why so many bitch and moan about these leaking. Most leaks are caused by melting dirty lead in them and the gunk getting stuck in the spout. No sawdust in the casting pot.....only beeswax.....my rule and it DOES work.....NO LEAKS! I have not seen the bottom of those pots in years. I always leave them at 80-90% full for the next fun session!

Just always insure your ingots are 100% clean and use only beeswax to reduce tin back in. bangerjim

I'm curious. What could fluxing with sawdust possibly have to do with LEE pots leaking?

Rick

[6bg6ga]

Buy the Magma pot

[bangerjim]

I'm curious. What could fluxing with sawdust possibly have to do with LEE pots leaking?

Rick

If.......IF there was contaminants in the ingots caused from not properly fluing 3X while smelting, those could combine with the sawdust and form "stuff" that could be in the bottom of the pot and possibly plug the valve. I have seen it. I do not know how that black/brown crapola can sit at the bottom of the pot when most other stuff even rocks (!) floats.....but it DOES!

Not using chunks of wood (dust) just eliminates one possible source of trouble. Why invite it by using saw dust when itcould lead to problems. That is why I use ONLY beeswax to REDUCE the tin back in. My ingots are 110% pure and clean and I only need to reduce.

Not just an opinion, but a proven fact with hard field experience over the years. As all my posts and comments are. No flac.....just fact.

Have fun out there!

bangerjim

[Flintlock Hokie]

Does beeswax work better than paraffin? I can't really see that paraffin does much. Sawdust, on the other hand, really cleans the surface of the melt. It makes it nice and shiny.

[cbrick]

Not just an opinion, but a proven fact with hard field experience over the years. As all my posts and comments are. No flac.....just fact. bangerjim

I see, it's proven fact. In that case you shouldn't mind presenting evidence of these facts.

I've used sawdust exclusively in my casting pot for more years than this site has been here and have never once seen a hint of what you are stating as fact.

Rick