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SWANEEDB
03-21-2014, 04:58 PM
Just go ahead and laugh if you like, but was wondering 'if' the airasol paint the type that is used for painting exhaust headers, many colors it comes in, but one I have seen looks real close to Parkerizing, this stuff will stand up to heat of 1500 degrees, I have a Rem 513T that came parkerized but is scratched up pretty bad. Would like to clean it up a little. Thanks.

Zymurgy50
03-21-2014, 05:15 PM
Iodine, let the alcohol evaporate out of solution and apply to the steel.

SWANEEDB
03-21-2014, 05:18 PM
Iodine, let the alcohol evaporate out of solution and apply to the steel.

So what do you do to prep the metal? How do you apply?

David2011
03-21-2014, 08:44 PM
Brownell's has a spray and bake Parkerized finish that is a paint product but looks for the world like real Parkerizing. I've applied it after blasting with a medium grit aluminum oxide. It's glass smooth to the touch but until you touch it you will believe it's Parkerized. Applied with an air brush or small paint gun, it's easy to do if you have a place to bake it.

Real Parkerizing is easier, though. Degrease and put in Parkerizing solution at about 160-170 degrees until it quits bubbling. It needs to be done in a stainless tank. Rinse and oil. Done. Bores must be plugged before parking.

David

DCM
03-22-2014, 07:08 AM
Brownell's has a spray and bake Parkerized finish that is a paint product but looks for the world like real Parkerizing. I've applied it after blasting with a medium grit aluminum oxide. It's glass smooth to the touch but until you touch it you will believe it's Parkerized. Applied with an air brush or small paint gun, it's easy to do if you have a place to bake it.

Real Parkerizing is easier, though. Degrease and put in Parkerizing solution at about 160-170 degrees until it quits bubbling. It needs to be done in a stainless tank. Rinse and oil. Done. Bores must be plugged before parking.

David

+1
I have used both also.
Real Parkerizing is much tougher, smaller pieces can easily be done in cheap SS cookware, be sure to do a very thorough degreasing.

randyrat
03-23-2014, 12:06 AM
Clean the metal real good NO TOUCH after words...then spray with High Temp Grill paint...Not for a high class weapon, but in a pinch for a field gun it works great..Let it cure for a while heat it if you can and it will hold up to abuse better.

W.R.Buchanan
03-23-2014, 04:02 PM
+1 for real Parkerizing. it is too easy to do and it works really well.

It should be noted that the Parkerizing by itself will rust . The process leaves a very porous finish on the material which acts like a sponge which absorbs oil. This is what prevents rust from forming.

Without the oil it doesn't work for very long.

The Brownell's small kit comes with the oil. However the smell of the product gave it's origin away. It is LPS 2 and I have used it by the 55 gallon barrel to store machinery waiting to be installed at factories. It has a very distinctive smell.

Now I use Frog Lube. It has a more pleasant smell.

Randy

seaboltm
03-23-2014, 05:14 PM
Clean the metal real good NO TOUCH after words...then spray with High Temp Grill paint...Not for a high class weapon, but in a pinch for a field gun it works great..Let it cure for a while heat it if you can and it will hold up to abuse better.

Nothing wrong with this approach at all. Also, automotive epoxy primer should work just fine, and is very durable. And in all reality, for a utility finish, Krylon or Rustoleum would be fine.