Setup for loading press

[Jal5]

I have a Lyman Crusher press mounted on my bench and need to make it more stable. The bench itself is 4x4s very solid. The top is a laminated table top of unknown type wood extending about 4 in. Over the front of the bench. Too much flex there even with L brackets underneath.

Do you guys have an extended top or not on the bench? I figured I'd need space for the ram on this press to clear the table edge.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

From what you're describing, you have too much over hang on your bench top. So you have two options to correct this:

1. Cut/trim the bench top back to 2 inches or less over hang. I prefer about 1 1/2 inches over hang at most on benches I've built in the past. Less is better, as the more bench top that is supported, the more stable and less flexible the bench top is.

2. Run something from the bench top to the floor to support the bench top. A "facing" 2 x 4 with intermittent vertical posts should do the trick.

Of the two solutions above, I would take a straight 2 x 4 and my power saw and do solution #1. Why? Because I don't like access to underneath my bench cut off.

Also, you did not say how thick your bench top is, but the thicker, with plywood as one of the laminations, the better.

Two things reloading benches like for stability: Weight and strength. Bolting the leg structure increases strength over screwing the leg structure. The more weight, the heavier and more stable the bench is. You've got a good start with the 4 x 4 legs. Sounds like you just need to add a shelf (if you don't have one) underneath the bench and stiffen/add support to the top.

Hope this helps,

[grampa243]

you might want to look at some thing like this..

http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/ultramounts

[Bayou52]

I have a Lyman Crusher press mounted on my bench and need to make it more stable. The bench itself is 4x4s very solid. The top is a laminated table top of unknown type wood extending about 4 in. Over the front of the bench. Too much flex there even with L brackets underneath.

Do you guys have an extended top or not on the bench? I figured I'd need space for the ram on this press to clear the table edge.

Instead of attaching my press directly to my bench, I attached it to a piece of 2 X 8. I then countersunk the bolts holding the press into the 2 X 8, so the press is now bolted to the 2 X 8. Then, you can position the 2 X 8 holding the press however you need to on your bench.

To hold the 2 X 8 to the bench, two C clamps on each side in the front does the job. For extra stability, drill a 1/4 inch hole in the back of the 2 X 8 and down through your bench. Insert a 1/4 inch "I" bolt from the top and tighten it from the bottom.

Solid as a rock..........

[dudel]

Sounds like too much overhang. My reloading benches tend to be flush in front so the press mounts through the top, and into the frame; not just through the top.

Even thought the benches are very stable (I keep ingots on the bottom shelf), I also anchor the bench to the back wall stud as well.

[gunoil]

Maybe figure like this?

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k511/putt2012/null_zps084aebc5.jpg

Cargo spreader bar from ebay or walmart.

[mdi]

Mebbe an easy solution would be to add a sheet of 3/4" plywood to the top. The bench I built has a tp made from 2 thicknesses of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed together...

[Jal5]

I think overhang is the problem. I am going to cut the top as suggested and see how that works out. Thanks to all.

[bear67]

I have built lots of cabinets, counter tops and workbenches and I think your problem is the overhang. Which is easier, laminating a piece of good 3/4 plywood on the top with glue and screws or cutting the overhang back? I think cutting is easier and cheaper.

My loading bench currently is a 10 ga industrial table with an 1 1/2 rolled "C" front to stiffen the leading edge. I don't like flex and when I noticed a 30 thousands flex, I fishplated a plate of 12" X 14" steel along the front bolted though with carriage bolts. This took out my flex,and I had the materials in my "spare parts repository--junk pile."

[Jal5]

It's stable other than the flex. Bolted together, screwed to the concrete block wall, and weighed down with lots of containers of WW and brass cases on the lower shelf.

Cutting the top won't be difficult.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

It's stable other than the flex. Bolted together, screwed to the concrete block wall, and weighed down with lots of containers of WW and brass cases on the lower shelf.

Cutting the top won't be difficult.

Based on this additional information, I think you have the solution to your problem. If you still have some vibration, the last alternative will be to add additional laminations to your current top. For that, I'd use either 3/4" ply or 5/8" ply doubled up, laminated and screwed down.

[Jal5]

I corrected the problem by cutting the overhanging top to 1.5 inch overhang. I c-clamped the press to the top on either side and ran a bolt thru the top on the back side. Really stable and no flex now.

Thanks for the help.

[725]

In addition to all the above, I put a flat steel or aluminum plate under my press that extends back deeper over the bench surface. Bolt it all down at every logical place. That extends the stresses further back onto my bench.

[Reddirt204]

I had a similar problem, ended up using some 4"x4"x1/8" square box steel tube used as a post. Made a base plate that was bolted into the concrete floor and a top plate that the press was bolted to, I made mine about 42" high as I stand up to operate the press.
No flex now

Cheers

Reddirt204

[jmort]

Also recommend In Line Fabrication mount. Very nice.

[zuke]

Steel/aluminum plate under it don't hurt a thing