PDA

View Full Version : Simple Hollow-pointer



HotGuns
12-26-2007, 11:18 PM
I've been reading various way to hollow point a cast bullet and I decided to make something that would be quick, easy and look good on the bullet.

It seems like the biggest obstacle is to get each bullet in position and holding it and keeping it one spot seems to be a problem sometimes. So I got to pondering about that and thought that if we could hold the case, instead of the bullet, maybe it would be more secure.

I decided to utilize the crimp stage on my Dillon 550B. I simply push the ram up to hold the bullet in position and then using an oillte bushing with a bell end center in it and a battery operated drill to spin it with a depth stop on it, I can regulate the dept of the hollow point and drill each one in roughly 8- 10 seconds.

The results came out great. The hollow point is centered perfectly, there are no other marks on the bullet and it is repeatable. Better yet, shooting them into jugs of water shows expansion that mimics factory hollow points/ Although I used cast .45 bullets, I seen no reason that it couldn't be used for other calibers as long as the center drill is the appropriate size.

Just to see how much I was taking out I weighed one and was pleasantly surprised. IT came out at 182 grains. It never dawned on me that the 180 grainer's started out life as 230's and the HP reduced them to around 180.

The picture of the rig...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b130/HotGuns/eli002.jpg

A close up of the HP'er on the Dillon. I later removed the die block and used a blank with no dies just to make it easier to get into.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b130/HotGuns/eli003.jpg

A picture of the drill motor on the press. The lever is pulled and held while the bullet is drilled. It holds it with enough tension to keep it from spinning.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b130/HotGuns/eli004.jpg

A picture of the final product.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b130/HotGuns/eli007.jpg


What do you think ? I think it works great and the bullets look good. Comments? Is there an easier, more uniform way to do it ?

dk17hmr
12-26-2007, 11:48 PM
I like it.

How did you make the bushing?

HotGuns
12-26-2007, 11:56 PM
With a lathe. The center drill is drilled and just jammed into the spindle. The bushing is just a nice slip fit into the top of the crimp die. Its a close fit, you can pop it in or out by finger pressure, but it doesn't spin, it just stays put.

The locking collar on the spindle is set screwed. Once you figure out the depth, you just lock it down and drill until it hits the top of the bushing. Thats why I used Oilite bronze. Really though, I think you could use brass or even nylon or Teflon, anything as long as it doesn't gall.

NSP64
12-27-2007, 12:28 AM
kooool! make some and I'll buy one(44 of course):-D

Buckshot
12-27-2007, 03:15 AM
kooool! make some and I'll buy one(44 of course):-D

................Doesn't appear to me as if they're caliber specific, but more "Die Specific" :-). The bushing used to locate the centerdrill has to be turned to fit whatever die it's going to be going into.

..................Buckshot

Joel Chavez
12-27-2007, 10:04 AM
You machine shop guys make me sick.[smilie=1: Don't you have something better to do than make us "non-machine shop" guys jealous? Great work. :-D

richbug
12-27-2007, 11:00 AM
I have plans of a similar one to use in a Lee Factory Crimp die. They hold the rounds in a collet, no chance of moving there. All the rifle FCD's I have with the exception of the 300 WBY will take the same adapter.

I wasn't going to use a center drill, probably use a drill around .090" or so. Will build it around a particular drill that I can buy cheap(local tool shop sells surplus tooling for $2-5 a pound depending on what category it is, last I was there they had long #30 drills by the bucket full,there are lots of #30 drills in a $5 pound).


Is that a special center drill, or did you just press it into a machined shank?

Denver
12-27-2007, 11:47 AM
I like it too. I see other possibilities here, like using a center cut end mill to shorten a too long for action/cylinder boolit and to make a larger diameter meplat.

Denver :drinks:

Swagerman
12-27-2007, 11:49 AM
This method is indeed inovative and looks to work very well.

Only thing is, drilling out the bullet to make the HP will change the bullet weight, would that have any accuracy or performance problems...probably not.

If you use swaging dies with the proper nose punch or die stem nose shape, you can alter the bullet to have HP or HB without changing the bullet weight.

Note in the picture, the HB nose punch die when rammed up into the die body it has a rising stem with the proper nose shape, it can perform a HB and HP at the same time.

However, this is a project for those machinest guys who have all the toys like lathes and milling machines.

So, your hollow point method has a lot of merit for the non-machinest inclined.


Jim


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/44and45/PC190006Bothbottombarscloseup.jpg

HotGuns
12-27-2007, 08:25 PM
................Doesn't appear to me as if they're caliber specific, but more "Die Specific" . The bushing used to locate the center drill has to be turned to fit whatever die it's going to be going into.


Nope. Not so.
I checked all of my pistol dies, 9MM,357mag,.357SIG,.40,44mag,.45LC and .45 ACP.
The same bushing can be used for all pistol dies which mike out at .512 I.D.

The rifle dies are all different though. To do that would require specific bushing for each caliber.


Is that a special center drill, or did you just press it into a machined shank?

Its just a" bell center" drilled and then pressed into the shank. A bell center is different from a regular center drill in that the tapered part is actually a radius than a straight taper like on a standard center drill.
I chose that because it more closely resembles most hollow points.


I see other possibilities here, like using a center cut end mill to shorten a too long for action/cylinder boolit and to make a larger diameter meplat.

I seen no reason why that wouldn't work. You might have to do a bit of adjusting to get it right but it shouldn't be a big deal.


Note in the picture, the HB nose punch die when rammed up into the die body it has a rising stem with the proper nose shape, it can perform a HB and HP at the same time.

However, this is a project for those machinest guys who have all the toys like lathes and milling machines.

Interesting. I like it. Why don't you show me some more pictures of it? If I can see a picture, I can build it...because I do have all of the proper " toys"/:drinks:

NSP64
12-27-2007, 09:59 PM
:confused:I still want one and will buy whatever die I need to use it:Fire:

dk17hmr
12-27-2007, 10:17 PM
The more I look at this, I need one. When you are making one for Newsmokepole, might as well turn one for me...lol...but seriously I need one of those

Swagerman
12-27-2007, 10:56 PM
Hotguns, lets take the talk and pictures to email, these guys have seen my stuff way too many times and probably bummed out by my repeating it.

Be glad to show you what I've got so far.

Jim ( bigcaddy@centurytel.net )

HotGuns
12-27-2007, 11:56 PM
Hey Swagerman...email sent.

HotGuns
12-28-2007, 12:24 AM
Well...forget the email...your stuff wouldnt take it.

Swagerman
01-04-2008, 09:24 AM
He finally got through, and I sent him information.

Jim

HotGuns
01-05-2008, 01:08 AM
Yes he did, and for that I thank him.
Great pics by the way !

timkelley
01-05-2008, 12:39 PM
HotGuns, you might want to think about a new cottage industry here. One thing though, when you get this just right you should patent it. There are folks out here who will steal your design and yes, I want one.

HotGuns
01-05-2008, 02:32 PM
I put the pictures on here because its not a big deal to make and it works.
Anyone that wants to can look at it and build it. Its pretty straightforward and easy. Just a bushing that fits the top of the crimp stage Dillon die, and a drill stop on the rod.

I've got some ideas from various boards that I used, just seeing the pictures allowed me to make them and it was a big help.

As for the patent, they arent hardly worth the money that it costs to get one. All you have to do is change up some dimensions and you're good to go. For what it costs to get a patent, I'd have to sell a few hundred thousand of them. I dont think that there is that much of a market out there. So...I post pictures and anyone that wants to can either build it themselves or have it built.