Boogered up break

[reed1911]

Okay, in a fit of stupid, I shot my .260 with the on/off brake on with cast. Needless to say I now have the brake leaded up to the point it will not close. Anyone have some ideas on cleaning the lead out? I tried soaking it in Kroil and heating it to about 130 degrees. I don't have a manufacture on it so I honestly don't know how it should come apart. This brake has two sets of holes, one on the inner and one on the outer sleeve that rotates about 1/8 of a turn to align the holes with the holes in the brake. It allows for braked shooting at the bench for reduced recoil, and non-braked while hunting for a little less ear blast.

[Blue2]

Check out a product from Sharp-Shooter Products called "No-Lead" I use several of their products and they all work exceptionaly well. The No Lead foams like hydrogen Peroxide in the presense of lead and will take it out of cracks and crevasses.

[Teddy (punchie)]

Check out a product from Sharp-Shooter Products called "No-Lead" I use several of their products and they all work exceptionaly well. The No Lead foams like hydrogen Peroxide in the presense of lead and will take it out of cracks and crevasses.

Hey Blue will work on molds?

Steel and or brass?

Thanks!! Teddy

[reed1911]

I'll give it a shot once I can find some. Everyplace I've looked so far is out of stock.

[gnoahhh]

Imay be slow off the mark, but what is a "break"? Does the OP mean "brake"?

[Ubet]

I've heard, from a lot of old timers, mercury will get all the lead out. But then you have the added aspect of dealing with the mercury.

[reed1911]

Nope, not slow, just another victim of auto-fill for words while typing and my bad editing prior to posting.

Mercury will indeed eat through most heavy metals and aluminum as well (actually it just embrittles Al, not a good thing). But it is not a method I would be willing to pursue now, it is pretty much the last ditch effort.

[Blue2]

Sorry,--away from the forum for awhile. "No Lead" dissolves lead from anywhere. Doesn't seem to bother other metals. As UBET stated liquid mercury works wonders as well. I am not personally timid about using it but I suppose you should wear gloves. When I was attending junior school almost every classroom had a small bottle of mercury and back when we had real money made of silver we would put a silver coin in the palm of our hand and poor some mercury on it and then rub the coin. The coin would absolutly gleam when this was done --although later it would go dull again.
Probably lowered the IQ a few points but my generation is still mopstly here.

[Blue2]

Another comment--When you use liquid mercury to clean a "leaded" up bore I would plug up the barrel and fill it up full. Leave it over night and then the next day pour the mercury back into its container. The bore would then be chased with a brass brush and the residual lead would just fall out as a grey powder. You probably cannot buy mercury anymore without many permits. Political correctness and saving us from ourselves. You can't but white lead to use on the center of your lath nor decent paint that will resist mildew for your house or boatpaint that says begone to barnicles and marine algea. And as I rant the great gas that has corn alcohol in it so you use lots more fuel to go down the road rather than good high energy gasoline. We are probably putting more emmisions out because of the extra fuel consumed than if we used a smaller quantity of decent fuel.

[runfiverun]

mercury comes in those new fangled light bulbs, you know the green energy saver ones.

[reed1911]

Still waiting to try the No-lead. The merc. in the light bulbs starts as a drop and as soon as the light is energized it turns to vapor. You can still buy liquid merc. it is about 80.00 a pound, I've got a flask of it, but as I said it is the last resort.