357 Magnum Powder Choices

[Michael J. Spangler]

I figured this was the place to post. I was hoping someone could shine some light on the popular powder choices for 357.
i'm leaning towards the heavy end of the spectrum with boolit choices as I have a 358156 with the GC shank removed and recently borrowed a 358429 from a friend.
I don't need top end teeth rattling loads, but I want to know that I'm shooting a magnum round.
In countless threads I've read of people using Unique and2400
My issue with these powder is that they really seem to use a whole lot of powder for the velocity and pressures listed in the manuals. I could see using H100/W296 as the massive amount of powder gives a massive velocity. It just doesn't seem to be a good trade off to use 14 grains of powder to obtain what you could with 7 grains of another powder.
I understand that bullet seating depth and bullet construction does create some variables in the data but lets make some comparisons

Alliant Manual
158 GDHP 14.8 grains 2400 1256 FPS

Hodgdon Manual
158 XTP 9.5 Grains HS-6 1375 FPS
" " 6.0 Grains 231 1220 FPS
" " 6.3 Grains Universal 1133 FPS

I'm not saying 2400 is a good or bad powder, or that any of these other powders fit better. It just seems to me that you would want to run a powder that would give you the targeted velocity with half the amount of powder if possible.
Unless you needed the extreme speed of H100/296 of Lil Gun loads it seems excessive to use so much powder to do the same thing as 6 grains go 231/HP8

I'm just wondering if I'm missing something. When I first started researching loading 357 I searched for load data and forums for suggestions using powders I had on hand. I read a lot of posts stating that Universal Clays was more of a mid range powder and to use a more standard powder for 357 like 2400.
I guess I should have read some more, because it doesn't seem like it does much more considering it uses double the powder to barely outperform it.

Please shine some light on this guys.
It seems that Universal can do just about all that 2400 can in most pistol cartridges with the exception of the magnum big bores.

I know that the same is true of a lot of different powders, and we're lucky to have so many to choose from. Lets face it, with the current situation in most areas of the US most of the time we have to settle for whatever powder we can find on the shelf and adjust accordingly, but given the choice how many of you run what I would call and inefficient powder in a cartridge and how many make choices based off of efficiency and then play with loads to find accuracy later?

thanks guys!

[detox]

I like using a powder that gives me lowest velocity spread around 1000fps...full or half full case. So far Tin Star N32C is the best for me and it burns LOTS cleaner than most. 5.6 gr nearly fills .357 magnum case. Bullseye does verygood, but lots dirtier.

Some say a bulky powder that takes up most room in case is better, only a chroni and target will tell.

[str8shot426]

My ancient lyman manual has an accuracy load using imr 7625. Around 1000 fps. Might be worth a look.

[Michael J. Spangler]

I forgot to note that it seems Hodgdon lists a much wider variety of uses for their powders than Alliant does. I've seen some old Lyman manuals and read plenty of articles with fast burning powders and heavy bullets to make decent velocity. It seems Alliant has opted out and doesn't list the mid range loads with fast powders.
For instance Hodgdon lists 180 grain bullets with titegroup which is pretty fast and similar to bullseye in burn rate.
Alliant will do no such thing.
That could be part of the versatility issue I'm seeing in the manuals.

[454PB]

Do you have a chronograph?

I've owned one for 35 years now (not the same one), and learned long ago that what you read in loading manuals is very often not what you read on the chronograph.

When I experiment with various powders, I'm looking for accuracy (consistency) first, if that is accomplished I do speed testing. After 35 years and dozens of different powders, I've settled on two favorites for .357 magnum, those are Alliant BlueDot for mid range to near full velocity, and Lil'Gun for balls to the wall, flame thrower, top velocity.

Of course I still use other powders, but those are the two I use most.

[Daddyfixit]

I've been using Bluedot in my .357 for 30 years. I am very happy with my choice. I see that the new BD was a warning not to use it with 125gr & 158gr projectiles but I've never had an issue, but then all my BD powder was purchased 30 years ago and I am down to my last pound so I may be looking at a different powder when I run out as I shoot a lot of 125gr 'ners

[Fishman]

Check Unique again. I think it might meet your needs based on your post. Half the charge weight (about) Of H110 and a good portion of the velocity.

As others have pointed out, there is more to the equation than just velocity. You raise some valid points and the end use of the ammunition must be considered.

[lar45]

I really like BlueDot for the 357mag. It burns clean, has less muzzle blast than 296 and gives some great top end velocities. I used to load lots of it with 125 and 158gn bullets. This is the first I've seen about a warning for lighter bullets. Is it printed on the container?

[djgoings]

4.8 grains of Titegroup with a 158 grain (no gas check). Only 1000FPS or so, but very low recoil. Good for women and children too.

[454PB]

I just checked the Alliant web site load data and they list several loads for BlueDot with 110 to 170 grain bullets. As I recall, the weight they warned not to use was 125 grain.

Here's a link:

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=10&cartridge=28

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

,,...

[jmort]

The only warning on Blue Dot in .357 is for 125 grain bullets only. 110 OK 158 OK. Anything but 125.

[357Mag]

MJ -

Howdy !

RX -
14.5gr WW296 ( H110 same stuff ) and SP Magnum primer..... under any Lyman .357 cal SWC of 158 - 172gr. They don't have to be GC.
Other's 158gr SWCs also work just fine.


Also, 7.0 IMR4756 SP primer and same bullets as above. Load is accurate, and only just a tad " sooty ".


With regards,
357Mag

[Hammerhead]

4756 is the nicest mid range powder for the .357 I've found.
6.5 grains under any 158 grain bullet (lead, plated or jacketed) works well for me. Definitely more that a .38, but less than magnum muzzle blast.
Meters great, good volume, burns very clean.

[Old School Big Bore]

Anything from Unique through Herco to Blue Dot. Keep in mind when you try to get slow-powder velocity out of a faster powder, the pressure curve is steeper. You want the firearm to remain a firearm and not a grenade.

[Bonz]

I really like BlueDot for the 357mag. It burns clean, has less muzzle blast than 296 and gives some great top end velocities. I used to load lots of it with 125 and 158gn bullets. This is the first I've seen about a warning for lighter bullets. Is it printed on the container?

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2008/08/alliant-issues-safety-notice-for-blue-dot-powder/

[Ed_Shot]

I really like the 358156 w/gc over 2400 13.5 gr. in my Ruger SS 6" (1275 fps) and Marlin 1894 (1635 fps). The 358477 over 2400 11.0 gr. or Blue Dot 8.5 is a nice mid-range at @ 1050 fps. For plinking fun I load 358242 (120), 358495, 358477, 358156 wo/gc or 3258311 over Red Dot/ Promo 5.0.

[357shooter]

Michael-J-Spangler - The part you are missing is: If you want magnum loads and magnum feel the best and safest approach is to use a magnum powder. By definition that is a slow powder like 2400 or H110. They require larger charges. However you want the use less powder (like half), after all it's a lot cheaper that way. Those don't provide the performance of the magnum powders. You really can't have the best of both. However, many of the answers provide alternatives like using Blue Dot or Unique. Good options and they may work for you.

Take a look at the loading data again, using a site like Hodgdon's, the very fast powder have a max at lower pressures (lower performance and lower bang), the slow powder have a max at higher pressures. The reason is based on what works the best and what is safe to use. They know what they are talking about. The midrange powders perform pretty well, but they don't provide the max performance of a magnum powder or the thriftiness of the fast powders.

The beauty of the 357 is the wide range of powder charges that work, the wide range of bullet weights that work, the small charges of fast powder can be cheap and the big loads of slow powders offer excellent performance. In a great varitey of barrel lengths. You might want to have target loads and different magnum loads, or keep searching for a good compromise that you like in your gun. That may be Blue Dot or Unique or an AA powder. I'm not as famliar with them so I can't speak from experience regarding their products.

[Michael J. Spangler]

Thanks guys.
All good suggestions.
I was really just wondering if you wanted a mid range load as I so often see with 2400 or unique, is there a down side to running half as much titegroup to do the same thing?
I guess I'm saying that if you're looking for 1000 fps in a 357 with a 358429 is there a reason to use 13.5 grains of 2400 instead of 5.5 grains of titegroup?

Thanks guys!

[fecmech]

I guess I'm saying that if you're looking for 1000 fps in a 357 with a 358429 is there a reason to use 13.5 grains of 2400 instead of 5.5 grains of titegroup?
In the first place 13.5/2400/358429 is more like 1200 fps depending on the barrel length but if 1000 fps is what you're looking for 2400 is not the best choice IMO. You are the only one who needs to be happy with the powder selection. If TG or any other faster powder gives you the accuracy you want at the speed you want it's game over. When I shoot the .357 as a Magnum I use 296/H110 loaded max for about 1300 fps with 358429 and excellent accuracy. Blue dot and 2400 also do very well on the top end. When I shoot it as a .38 spl I use a load of Bullseye to give me 900 fps with a 158RN or SWC. Pick your powder for the level you're working at.

[mainiac]

load 12.5-2400 behind that 358429,,and youll find out the reason why you should use 2400.That loads shoots in any 357 ive ever tried it in,,very accurate.

[Michael J. Spangler]

In the first place 13.5/2400/358429 is more like 1200 fps depending on the barrel length but if 1000 fps is what you're looking for 2400 is not the best choice IMO. You are the only one who needs to be happy with the powder selection. If TG or any other faster powder gives you the accuracy you want at the speed you want it's game over. When I shoot the .357 as a Magnum I use 296/H110 loaded max for about 1300 fps with 358429 and excellent accuracy. Blue dot and 2400 also do very well on the top end. When I shoot it as a .38 spl I use a load of Bullseye to give me 900 fps with a 158RN or SWC. Pick your powder for the level you're working at.

I know the numbers aren't exact I'm just trying to make a comparison to get to the question.
Is there a reason for using lots of one powder instead of half the amount of another to achieve the same results?

Other than the accuracy that one might give over the other? Or is it just a lot of tradition? 2400 had been around a long time and has worked very well. Maybe the recipes passed down over time outweigh the new fangled powders and lack of experimentation with them?

Just pondering the philosophical questions of reloading an powder choices.

[fecmech]

I know the numbers aren't exact I'm just trying to make a comparison to get to the question.
Is there a reason for using lots of one powder instead of half the amount of another to achieve the same results?
People go different ways for different reasons. When I first started reloading handguns(late 60's) what ever powder moved the bullet the fastest was what I wanted and loaded. Others are bullseye shooters who want minimal recoil and maximum accuracy and everything in between. I think maybe you are doing a bunch of reading (very good thing ) and may be a bit overwhelmed by the choices. There is really no "best way" or "best powder" for most applications. There are many ways to arrive at good accurate loads. You just have to put your toe in the water and start swimming. I have never used TG but use a lot of Bullseye (similar speed) and by using it you find it's niche and limitations. The same with the slow burners like 296/H110, 2400, Blue Dot etc. You try them and find what works the best for you. In the process you gain knowledge and experience and much enjoyment. This is a great hobby that I've enjoyed for over 40 years, I hope you do to.

[robertbank]

People go different ways for different reasons. When I first started reloading handguns(late 60's) what ever powder moved the bullet the fastest was what I wanted and loaded. Others are bullseye shooters who want minimal recoil and maximum accuracy and everything in between. I think maybe you are doing a bunch of reading (very good thing ) and may be a bit overwhelmed by the choices. There is really no "best way" or "best powder" for most applications. There are many ways to arrive at good accurate loads. You just have to put your toe in the water and start swimming. I have never used TG but use a lot of Bullseye (similar speed) and by using it you find it's niche and limitations. The same with the slow burners like 296/H110, 2400, Blue Dot etc. You try them and find what works the best for you. In the process you gain knowledge and experience and much enjoyment. This is a great hobby that I've enjoyed for over 40 years, I hope you do to.

Excellent commentary. To the OP with today's powder shortages you may be down to finding any powder that will work in the caliber you are reloading for. I have an "A" list for the guns I load for then I have a "D" for desperation list. Lately I have been going to the Hogdon site and looking for alternatives to my "A" list for powders that will meet my needs for any given powder. Probably not as good as I would achieve with my "A" list powders but will work.

Take Care

Bob

[fatboy]

I have been using RamShots Zip with good results. not a rip your hand off kinda load but still a stiff mag load. In our area it is available usually.

[Salmoneye]

It seems Alliant has opted out and doesn't list the mid range loads with fast powders.
For instance Hodgdon lists 180 grain bullets with titegroup which is pretty fast and similar to bullseye in burn rate.
Alliant will do no such thing.

Alliant does in fact "do such a thing", but you need to eMail and ask specific questions such as "I need a recipe for 9mm 124gr FMJ using Red Dot", and they will gladly oblige...

Since Alliant and Speer came under the same corporate umbrella, Alliant has not published recipes for anything but Speer bullets on their site...

Here is a link to the 2004 paper Alliant manual...I think you will find what you are looking for in the way of recipes for all pistol/shotgun powders starting on page 42:

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=182147&d=1364769070

[gwpercle]

The reason 2400 works in the 357 magnum is moot. It works...Elmer Keith said so. Skeeter Skelton 2nd the motion. Other powders will work, just not the best.

[robertbank]

The reason 2400 works in the 357 magnum is moot. It works...Elmer Keith said so. Skeeter Skelton 2nd the motion. Other powders will work, just not the best.

Unfortunately the younger generation may not know of Keith or Skelton or care. Flexall likes 4227 under the 357429 Lyman so there`s as his is just another opinion. They were great writers and story tellers of their day but they weren`t gods and they didn`t own my gun so I`ll test out powders and combinations of various bullets, loads and powders to see what suites me. I suspect that is why most of us are here.

In today`s environment learning about other powder bullet combinations is almost a necessity.

Take Care

Bob

[dtknowles]

I have used H110, IMR4227, Herco, Unique, Green Dot, Red Dot and 231 in my .357. I never had any 2400 so I have nothing to add about it. I like H110 better than IMR4227 for full power loads but only because my Revolver shoots it accurately and it produces higher velocities.

I have been using Green Dot for my midrange loads because I have more of that than the others but I got lower ES and SD with 231 but did not see a lot of difference accuracy wise.

I weigh my full power charges but the midrange loads are just measured.

Tim

[Nicholas]

There have been some positive comments on Blue Dot in this thread and they are certainly justified. However, I have some old BD and a lot more of much newer BD and from my observations they are not the same powders at least in terms of performance. I would not use new BD data for the old BD powder.

I have loaded a bunch of moderate loads with Bullseye and never had a significant issue with clean up. It is cheap to use for the performance level and one of the most available powders, and you won't have to purchase this powder all that frequently. You can get over a 1000 loads with a pound, and 2000 loads with 38 special low v loads. You can shoot a heck of a lot with light cast bullets and BE in 357/38 loads.

At near max loads, the recoil impulse does seem to be sharper than similar velocity loads with a slower powder, but that could be just my overactive imagination.

[Salmoneye]

You can get over a 1000 loads with a pound, and 2000 loads with 38 special low v loads. You can shoot a heck of a lot with light cast bullets and BE in 357/38 loads.

At near max loads, the recoil impulse does seem to be sharper than similar velocity loads with a slower powder, but that could be just my overactive imagination.

I use and recommend Red Dot the same way you feel about Bullseye...Lots of shooting per pound, and the ability to get to medium-magnum levels in .357 and .44 mag...

I also am firmly convinced that the near max loads feel 'sharper' than slower powders at the same MV...

[USSR]

2400 or 4227, matters not to me.

Don

[c1skout]

A while back I was using stiff charges of Bullseye to get magnum velocities in 357mag. It was accurate enough and I had the speed right up where I wanted it, about 1200fps. I was reading through my load notes and found that 6.1g was giving me higher velocity than 6.3g was. I asked about that on here and was advised that Bullseye probably wasn't my best powder choice for magnum loads due to reaching max pressure more quickly... etc, so I picked up some 2400 to try. WOW, I can get the same speed with much improved accuracy. For my gun there really is no question which one I'll try to stick with, even though I'm using twice as much powder. I like the Bullseye for 38 special loads though. The gun's report is much different with the slower powder also, more of a boom than a bang.

[Mal Paso]

I know the numbers aren't exact I'm just trying to make a comparison to get to the question.
Is there a reason for using lots of one powder instead of half the amount of another to achieve the same results?

Other than the accuracy that one might give over the other? Or is it just a lot of tradition? 2400 had been around a long time and has worked very well. Maybe the recipes passed down over time outweigh the new fangled powders and lack of experimentation with them?

Just pondering the philosophical questions of reloading an powder choices.

You are right where I started and I still have the Titegroup I bought back then. I's great for 800fps gallery loads. In my opinion it is too fast for mid range. When I tried the upper range of what Hogdon recommended for titegroup I got poor accuracy and Leading. Supersonic loads are harder on lead and you want to use the slowest powder that peaks in your pressure range.

Don't buy too much titegroup until you try it. There is more to it than numbers and it doesn't cost much to use the right powder.

[jonp]

First powder/gun combo I bought was a BH 357 Mag and Blue Dot. Since then I've tried about everyone listed in a Lymans. I've come back to Unique or Red Dot for target to mid-range and H110/296 for Max. Everything else seems to work but those powders work not just for the 357 but for about everything else.

[detox]

I use and recommend Red Dot the same way you feel about Bullseye...Lots of shooting per pound, and the ability to get to medium-magnum levels in .357 and .44 mag...

I also am firmly convinced that the near max loads feel 'sharper' than slower powders at the same MV...

Red Dot is a verygood low-medium velocity cast boolet powder and fills case more than most others. Red dot also burns cleaner than Bullseye.

I like Tin Star N32C best for low-medium velocity loads with lead bullets. I use H110, 296 or 2400 with higher velocity jacketed bullet loads.

[shooting on a shoestring]

Using 2400 at full-throttle benefits:
1. Large powder column protects boolit base during and just after ignition.
2. Slower pressure rise meaning boolit gets accelerated gently instead of getting hit hard so less chance of slumping the boolit.
3. In throwing charges from a powder measure charges weights have variance, lets say +/- 0.1 grains. That variance on 14.0 grains of 2400 is only half as bad as the same variance on 7.0 grains of BlueDot.
4. 2400 has a very small kernel size and meters much better than BlueDot, Herco, Unique.
5. Full case (or nearly so) means no velocity deviation due to powder position in the case before firing. The powder is always near the primer.

Downside of using 2400:
1. Uses more powder, so costs more per shot.
2. The higher charge weight of the solid powder means more gas volume generated per shot, so more muzzle blast.
3. Recoil is directly related to the sum of the masses of the boolit, powder, lube and primer compound. The more powder, the more recoil from throwing that mass out the end of the barrel.
4. Slower powders have more muzzle pressure when the boolit leaves the barrel meaning more muzzle blast.

The OP was not looking for top end velocities, nor the nth degree of small groups. The OP was concerned about the cost per round.

So loading BlueDot, Herco or powders in that range can definitely give less cost per shot, give acceptable groups (my opinion, most shooters shooting a revolver without a bench can’t tell the difference in accuracy from one load to another, they are the limiting factor. The ones that aren’t don’t need to be reading this post.) and should be loaded and shot often.

One caution here, is the faster the powder, the worse the pressure spikes near its top end pressures. There is also a low end where any powder gets erratic due to poor combustion. Got to stay between those two extremes to find happiness.

[smkummer]

You determine what you want to do. For example, I am loading hard cast 158 SCW bullets at about 1150 FPS. Unique does this fine, so like you said, I don't need more of 2400 for that. If I wanted to go cheaper on powder, I did see a 700X load that gives about 1100 FPS with less powder but this load is accurate for me so I don't want to change. I don't like being at the max. allowable pressure with .357, so my choices are slightly reduced. I also have some SR7625 that I have had for a long time for use in reduced pressure 12 gauge loads. It looks like it will also work for what I want and most likely flow better than unique, so my next batch of 500 bulk .357 loads in a 30 cal. ammo can may be loaded with it. .357 allows so many choices with powder that often one can use powder that is already on hand.

[robertbank]

With today's powder shortages sometimes we are reminded how versatile the .357 can be. Too, how forgiving it can be as well. If the shortages continue we might be looking for recipes for black powder!

Take Care

Bob

[Michael J. Spangler]

Using 2400 at full-throttle benefits:
1. Large powder column protects boolit base during and just after ignition.
2. Slower pressure rise meaning boolit gets accelerated gently instead of getting hit hard so less chance of slumping the boolit.
3. In throwing charges from a powder measure charges weights have variance, lets say +/- 0.1 grains. That variance on 14.0 grains of 2400 is only half as bad as the same variance on 7.0 grains of BlueDot.
4. 2400 has a very small kernel size and meters much better than BlueDot, Herco, Unique.
5. Full case (or nearly so) means no velocity deviation due to powder position in the case before firing. The powder is always near the primer.

Downside of using 2400:
1. Uses more powder, so costs more per shot.
2. The higher charge weight of the solid powder means more gas volume generated per shot, so more muzzle blast.
3. Recoil is directly related to the sum of the masses of the boolit, powder, lube and primer compound. The more powder, the more recoil from throwing that mass out the end of the barrel.
4. Slower powders have more muzzle pressure when the boolit leaves the barrel meaning more muzzle blast.

The OP was not looking for top end velocities, nor the nth degree of small groups. The OP was concerned about the cost per round.

So loading BlueDot, Herco or powders in that range can definitely give less cost per shot, give acceptable groups (my opinion, most shooters shooting a revolver without a bench can’t tell the difference in accuracy from one load to another, they are the limiting factor. The ones that aren’t don’t need to be reading this post.) and should be loaded and shot often.

One caution here, is the faster the powder, the worse the pressure spikes near its top end pressures. There is also a low end where any powder gets erratic due to poor combustion. Got to stay between those two extremes to find happiness.

Thank you. I guess that's basically what I was looking for. Which goes along with the next quoted post


With today's powder shortages sometimes we are reminded how versatile the .357 can be. Too, how forgiving it can be as well. If the shortages continue we might be looking for recipes for black powder!

Take Care

Bob

I guess I should just be thankful that I have a versatile cartridge to load for. I look at powder at the store all the time and don't find much of the same thing from trip to trip.
My 300 RUM has a pretty small group of powders it can use compared to the versatility of 357/38.
I'm going to stick with middle of the road powders for my middle of the road loads. I guess my big benefits would be better load density, lower pressure for a given velocity, most likely better sd and es due to the load density. It would also be better when I get my lever gun (someday) the slower powders would give a better velocity increase in the longer barrel than what a fast powder would.

Thanks for all the replies, suggestions, stories and recipes.

[bowfishn]

I use the HP-38 or W231 for my low power 125 gr 158 gr Plain Base 38 equivalent loads and H110 for Magnum loads with my heavier 180 gr Gas Checked boolits.

[dnotarianni]

Personally I like to fill the case as a full case seems to be a more consistant round over the chrony 7 grs vs 10 grs is only 300 rounds diference in a lb of powder
Dave

[DrCaveman]

Ive really been liking my sr4756 loads in 357 mag lately
Load density is up there near 2400 loads, and velocity aint far behind
Powder charge is about 30-40% lower

Seems pretty economical and powerful at the same time. Clean gun, clean holes, nice primers, no leading, no pressure signs. Im kinda wondering why speer (and everybody) dropped their loads so much for this podwer. I mean, they could have dropped below speer#8 and still kept things pretty stout

No matter I guess because they are supposedly stopping production this year for sr4756
Maybe herco can do similar?

But spangler, i have been with your way of thinking recently too. Has got me more into reduced rifle loads largely. I cant get enough of something to 1)develop load 2) practice with load then 3) keep enough loaded on hand for continued practice and hunting

Seems i usually run out of my "tester" pound about that time. Then no more at stores

Back to topic, i think that the faster powders do truly upset the base of the boolit more and so have more limited application i.e, shorter range shooting, at lower velocity. Either or.
Thats just what i have seen

[taco650]

Just throw another one into the mix, take a look at AA #9. Its a slow burner but not quite as slow as 296/H110. When I had a 357 years ago, I tried all sorts of stuff- W231, Bullsey, HS6, 296, H110, 2400, Unique & AA9 & probably some others I can't remember. They all worked as long as I stayed within published data (or at least close to it ;-)). My advice is look at every powder and bullet manufacturers data you can. Pay attention to the barrel lengths they use for testing as well which will help you predict what ball park your actual velocity will be (short of buying or borrowing a chrony). Sounds like you're leaning toward the medium-slow burners so look at Longshot too. I just got some because I couldn't find 2400 but it has a similar burn rate. As others have said, the .357 is flexible. Just play around with it a little.

[sniper]

I used Blue Dot for years, and liked it. I stopped using it when the warning about 357 125 gr bullets/any .41 Magnum load was posted.

I have read the experiences of a very knowledgeable reloader on another site, and his conclusion is there is/was nothing wrong with Blue Dot, except the manufacturer "heard" of overpressure incidents, and reacted. No one has yet been able to replicate the supposed "pressure incidents". His opinion was the incidents were caused by overloads/overenthusiastic reloaders. That makes a lot more sense to me than a ban on just one bullet weight in one caliber, (125gr/357) and a prohibition on another whole caliber (.41 Magnum). Ymmv.

[bigted]

I think it has been mentioned and hinted at already but here goes.

The slow powder builds pressure slowly and that pressure can continue to build the longer the barrel. For true magnum loads meaning top barn burners ... this slower build is always better for jacketed bullets when those top speed bullets ate needed.

The faster the powder the faster the pressure spikes and thus there is the chance when trying for top speeds ... that fast spike can and will give cast boolit blowby with the leading spewing down bore ahead of the boolit causing leading . However loading slow to medium speed loads ... using these fast powders allow many loads, accurate mid speed loads and easy shooting quieter loads that promote lots of practice as well as excellent small game loads.

Economics are dependant on need. Such as in medium to large game loads where heavy boolits at top speed with a tough bullet needed for deep penetration ... then economics are second in concern as these loads are hard on the gun, shooter but are custom made for the task. On the other side as in self defense or small game/target shooting ... then economics become more important as more loads are required and hence money spent per load are more in focus for the shooter.

All in all the speed of the powder used will be dictated by the need of the load. If cost per shot is a concern ... throttle down on the speed ... buy Unique or other fast powder ... cast as perfect a boolit as you can possibly cast using the cheapest yet best lead mix you can get. You will build twice as many loads ... shoot twice as much ... get to be a better and better shot ... be more and more confident with your gun. An added benefit is the less wear n tear on your gun and ears and wrist.

[megasupermagnum]

Even with very slow rifle powders in big rifle cartridges, everything I've seen has shown peak pressure to occur when the bullet is just a couple inches down the barrel. In a revolver, I doubt pressure is building at all when the bullet enters the barrel, it's likely already on the decline. A fast pressure spike alone shouldn't cause gas cutting. Only an undersized bullet that doesn't expand to the throat can do that. Excessive pressures from fast powders might do it.