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BCB
03-13-2014, 12:19 PM
http://i57.tinypic.com/2zp7g52.jpg

That is the part from my restored Herters press that the charge bar slides in...

The aluminum (?) cap is where the plastic bottle screws into that holds the powder or shot...

I need to remove those caps...

I heated them with a propane torch thinking they were soldered on--no go.

Any thoughts as to how I can remove them with minimal--no--damage to the part they are attached to?...

Thanks...BCB

LUBEDUDE
03-13-2014, 01:51 PM
Call MEC and ask for advice.

country gent
03-13-2014, 02:39 PM
They may have a stem on the back side crimped into the hole. will be hard to remove if so. Being a Herters press info is going to be harder to find. Look in and see what it looks like if the caps meatal extends into the hole and flares out it is probably crimped in. A very thin chisel and working around the outside tapping lightly may loosen the crimp if thats what it is.

SSGOldfart
03-13-2014, 03:17 PM
Bigger hammer might work????????

44Vaquero
03-13-2014, 03:33 PM
Slow, steady and easy Dremel Moto Tool.

BCB
03-13-2014, 03:35 PM
Bigger hammer might work????????

Or as we used to say during my days with Sam...

"There is no problem too big that enough explosives won't solve"...

But, really, this task may be a bit too tender for a bigger hammer...

Thanks anyway...BCB

BCB
03-13-2014, 03:45 PM
Yep, I drilled the centers as they were crimped into there…

I then took a sharp small chisel and cut them lose…

Not too bad of an ordeal I guess…

Now then, I glued the replacements in place with J&B Weld…

Don’t know if there is enough surface area to bond them in place or not…

They will need to be able to stand some torque when the bottles are screwed back on with powder and shot…

We shall see I guess…

Thanks…BCB

Walter Laich
03-13-2014, 05:53 PM
might see if one of those MEC bottle support contraptions would fit. Hate to think what a bottle of #8 shot would look like if the JB Weld gave way--actually I know what that looks like :wink:

BCB
03-13-2014, 06:01 PM
might see if one of those MEC bottle support contraptions would fit. Hate to think what a bottle of #8 shot would look like if the JB Weld gave way--actually I know what that looks like :wink:

I've actually given that a thought also...

But, I am uncertain that this old Herters press has anything at all to do with the MEC stuff...

Still I suppose and e-mail to them with the Herters model number might not hurt...

BCB

Silverboolit
03-13-2014, 09:48 PM
Maybe try silver solder

David2011
03-15-2014, 10:05 PM
Yep, I drilled the centers as they were crimped into there…

I then took a sharp small chisel and cut them lose…

Not too bad of an ordeal I guess…

Now then, I glued the replacements in place with J&B Weld…

Don’t know if there is enough surface area to bond them in place or not…

They will need to be able to stand some torque when the bottles are screwed back on with powder and shot…

We shall see I guess…

Thanks…BCB

If the JB Weld fails this might be a place for soft soldering. I've soft soldered steel landing gear wire for R/C airplanes for decades. It's easy with a propane torch and Stay-Clean flux or a Stay-Brite solder kit. The steel has to be very clean, like acetone followed by 220 or so grit sanding followed by another acetone wipe. Get the steel hot, flux while hot and then apply solder to tin the steel. Tin the metal lid separately. Hold the lid in place while heating only the heavier steel. When the solder melts remove the heat and hold the lid in place until the solder is fully solidified so you don't get a cold solder joint.

David

BCB
03-16-2014, 08:07 AM
If the JB Weld fails this might be a place for soft soldering. I've soft soldered steel landing gear wire for R/C airplanes for decades. It's easy with a propane torch and Stay-Clean flux or a Stay-Brite solder kit. The steel has to be very clean, like acetone followed by 220 or so grit sanding followed by another acetone wipe. Get the steel hot, flux while hot and then apply solder to tin the steel. Tin the metal lid separately. Hold the lid in place while heating only the heavier steel. When the solder melts remove the heat and hold the lid in place until the solder is fully solidified so you don't get a cold solder joint.

David

Yea, I have a bit of concern for the J&B Weld also. And as Walter Laich mentioned, the shot bottle might be the problem. I don’t think I will have problems with the powder bottle though…

I thought about solder also, but I don’t know how much heat the caps can take. They are pretty thin and I didn’t try a magnet on them—they may not even be a steel product…

I guess if I do need to attempt solder, I probably will have to have someone do it who knows much more about that stuff than I do…

If I do use the press, I will only put enough shot in it to load 20-25 rounds at a time. That should help eliminate the stress and strain on the shot bottle cap…

We shall see…

Thanks…BCB