Am I the only dufus that can't get a factory bbl out of 10/22?

[Mohavedog]

I'm attempting to remove a factory stainless bbl out of a 10/22. It just won't come out. I've removed the receiver screws for the scope mount just in case they were a bit too long and binding on the barrel shoulder, and soaked in some Kroil. I pounded lightly with a rubber and plastic hammer with no success. I don't want to ruin this barrel. Any advise out there from anyone who experienced a stubborn bbl.
Thanks, Mohavedog

[w5pv]

I have no experince with stainless barrels but if it was put up with locktite you may try heating it some with a heat gun just hot enough that you cannot hold your hand on the parts.I have removed stainless nuts that were put up with lock tite this way.

[Cmm_3940]

As they come from the factory, those things usually fall out once you remove the V-block. I'm guessin' loctite or other glue is involved. Try heat.

[Iowa Fox]

I have had them,

First thing I try is after removing the V block pull the bolt back and let it slam into the rear of the barrel. This works most of the time.

Second is a little heat on the receiver around the barrel using a hair dryer/heat gun. Don't get it to hot, just a little usually works.

Last for the stubborn ones here is a home made pusher. One of there three will get the barrel off.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88159&highlight=Stuck+10%2F22+barrel

[Mohavedog]

OK, guys thanks for all the input. After a alot of heat with a heat gun it finally came out. The new replacement .920 bbl went in sooooo eeeasy. I haven't miked the diff in the shoulders yet because I didn't feel like taking out the new bbl yet, but the factory bbl has to be at least .002 bigger.

[Cmm_3940]

Wow. Has Ruger improved the 10/22 in recent years? When I got mine around ten years ago, it was nowhere near that tight.

Glad you got your project going, those aftermarket barrels are a big improvement.

[xacex]

I have a green mountain bull barrel that makes RGB's shoot like match ammo. Best upgrade you can do. Trigger work should be next.

[Mk42gunner]

When I built my first (and last so far) 10-22 I used a Green Mountain fluted barrel and various other expensive action parts. For the first 150 or so rounds I was thinking that I had wasted a bunch of money because 10 round groups were roughly 1½-2" at 25 yards.

Somewhere around 200 rounds downrange everything settled into place and groups started to get better, eventually getting down to thumbnail size.

The little rifle became fairly reliable accuracy wise, but if you dropped the magazine in the dirt and sand that is prevalent around Fallon, NV it became a jamamatic right now.

All told I think I had close to $450 in a gun that wasn't as useful as a stock $97 Marlin Model 60, so it went down the road and I kept the Marlin.

Robert

[Cmm_3940]

I did nearly the same thing with my 10/22. Green Mountain fluted bbl, fully upgraded action. It easily shoots 10 rd groups smaller than a dime at 50 yds off of a wobbly picnic bench. My old Revelation branded Marlin 60 shoots good too, but not this good. Ammo is important if you want tiny groups; my 10/22 likes Wolf Match Target - the German stuff, not the Russian cr@ρ.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd195/cm6259/10-22-123-sm.jpg

[NSB]

I have had them,

First thing I try is after removing the V block pull the bolt back and let it slam into the rear of the barrel. This works most of the time.

Second is a little heat on the receiver around the barrel using a hair dryer/heat gun. Don't get it to hot, just a little usually works.

Last for the stubborn ones here is a home made pusher. One of there three will get the barrel off.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88159&highlight=Stuck+10%2F22+barrel

I was going to say the same thing word for word. I've changed dozens of them. Once in a while one will stick for reasons unknown. Good answer.

[Changeling]

First off I have removed a lot of 10/22 barrels off for me and friends, never seen one that could not be removed easily with the help of a heat gun. Custom barrel (Fluted), shoots 1/4 inch groups or better at 25 yds. Extremely happy with this rifle.

[Mohavedog]

I really appreciate the info you all took the time to furnish. This 10/22 is brand new with about 100 rnds down the pipe for test purposes. I was given a very lightly used .920 bull bbl by my very good friend, so I couldn't pass up installing it. He doesn't recall the mfg of the bull bbl but thought it was "tech---something" lol. He knows it was not a Green Mountain though. So I was expecting the factory bbl to just nicely fall out of the action since that is what I heard almost everywhere. Tap, tap, tap--rap, rap, rap with a plastic hammer, no go. Went to the vice and held the bbl with wood blocks and banged a little harder on the action, still no go.
So went to the heat gun as suggested and after heating the action for a few min it broke loose.
I see no evidence of locktite, but here's what I did find. I miked the stock Ruger bbl tang and found it was .686.5", then miked the replacement bbl tang and found it measured .684". So imho the factory bbl had to have been installed by forcing it into the receiver which made it hard to remove.
Anyway, I hope by posting this 10/22 newbies like myself won't be surprised if their factory bbl doesn't just fall out.

[Changeling]

This is an "OLD POST" regardless of what the date says, it's currently March 12, 2014.

Use a rubber hammer (NOT PLASTIC) they are very cheap. It makes barrel removel/installation along with the heat gun somewhat easy.

Your bigist concern is aligning the extractor slot up. Witch is easy using the rubber hammer and an "EYE BALL" yours preferably, with a heat gun.

Without the heat gun it will become an exercise in futility.

[wallenba]

Brownell's does have a tool to assist in that, but at $50, I'd try something else. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ruger-reg-10-22-reg-barrel-pusher-prod41959.aspx