Best boresighter . . .

[0802]

What's some recommendations on boresighting systems? I'm looking to mount a scope on my new 336 LTD in 35 Rem and would like to do it myself. I move a lot, so I don't have a shop that habitually do business with (for more than a year or two at least).

Not looking to spend a lot of $$, just a basic system that will get me on the paper and last for years.

Josh

[HABCAN]

I've had and used the compact little Bushnell 3-spud unit for many years. Now, this particular one has a quirk, in that it consistently tracks to the right: as in, to zero a given rifle, I must set the scope crosshairs 1-1/2 'squares' to the left of the unit's centerline, but it IS strangely consistent in this. For me it works well, YMMV.

[LIMPINGJ]

Just take the bolt out and look through the barrel at your target. Level the rifle in a secure rest and aim through the barrel at your target then adjust your crosshairs to the same spot as the barrel. All the rifles I have done this way have been quite close when shot at 25 yards. Make any needed adjustments then move out to 100.

[waksupi]

LimpingJ has the best answer to the question. That is how we boresight at work. We do have a lazer boresighter, but it seldom gets used, generally only if it is raining, foggy, or snowing too hard to see the 100 yard target.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

I also agree with LIMPINGJ, except that I insert a deprimed case in the chamber and use it as an aperture sight. On occasion, I've had to enlarge the flash hole to get the proper picture.
This is sort of the way I use inserts I make, to sight down a barrel when checking for straightness (concentric rings).
Morgan

[felix]

Best bore sighter is no bore sighter. First, make sure the center of the scope has the center of the cross hairs on top on one another. Move cross hairs when off of the the gun, and the scope is resting on the kitchen table looking out the window. Move eye around and cross hairs should not move. Adjust until they do not move. Now the scope is centered. No put scope on gun, moving only the mounts until you think you are close enough. Shoot 25 yards or closer. Move mounts until round hits exactly at 12 or 6 o'clock. Lock mounts down hard never more to move, unless you want to shim to compensate for the vertical. Shoot again for verification. When satisfied, re-aim the very same way, and then move cross hair to hit exactly where the round hit the target, while holding the gun steady as a rock at the origonal aim point. ... felix

[45nut]

I've also owned and used a 3 spud Bushnell for about 20 years and it has paid for itself several times over by not wasting ammo. I bought a BSA kit a couple years ago because I needed a 17 cal spud and spares of any shooting gear are good to have. I like them both but the Bushnell still gets the majority of the work.

[Scrounger]

Centering the target in the bore and without moving the rifle, adjust the scope cross hairs to the target, is the best way, as LimpingJ pointed out. Then there are times when you can't look through the bore... For these, I mount the scope, trying to get the cross hairs level and the scope to eye distance right, with no consideration to moving the cross hairs. Then from a secure rest I line up the cross hairs on a small object on the ground or on the target berm, rock, twig, scrap of paper, whatever. Then without moving the rifle, I raise my head and look at the targeted object and fire. You can see the bullet strike and know which direction(s) to move the bullet impact. Repeat as necessary to get the impact close enough to be on paper (target). Works for me...

[oldfart]

I have a bushnell with two spuds, lost one :(
sell it to you for 25.00 shipped

[georgeld]

Just a magnetic gizmo they mounted to the muzzle.

Made by Bushnell, just got it out to make sure before posting this.

Found the same one listed at Midway for about $30-35 and bought one.
Sure handy to have in the shooting box along with a trigger pull gauge.

THAT helps answer a lot of inaccuracy questions for me and others.

Maybe this is what you're looking for.

Good luck,

[DCM]

Just take the bolt out and look through the barrel at your target. Level the rifle in a secure rest and aim through the barrel at your target then adjust your crosshairs to the same spot as the barrel. All the rifles I have done this way have been quite close when shot at 25 yards. Make any needed adjustments then move out to 100.

Another +1 on this.
I have both a laser type and the "spud & screen" neither have ever done as well as the tried and true.

[JLarsson]

Removing the bolt on his Marlin 336 is going to be a bit impractical. This is one of those times when a good boresighter can really help.

I've got a laser boresighter, but it hasn't been very accurate. Might be operator error.

[DCM]

I've got a laser boresighter, but it hasn't been very accurate. Might be operator error.

Might be but I doubt it.
All types of bore sighting are only good enough to hopefully get you on paper, instead of the wild blue yonder.
I have not found any that are dead on period, they just save time and ammo.

[fouronesix]

Removing the bolt on his Marlin 336 is going to be a bit impractical. This is one of those times when a good boresighter can really help.

I've got a laser boresighter, but it hasn't been very accurate. Might be operator error.


Not a problem if you use a skinny piece of mirror glued to a popsicle stick. I use one when bore sighting any gun that doesn't allow easy viewing through the breech.

A secondary use for the skinny mirror is that it gives superior viewing of the chamber and rear portions of the bore- sans a borescope.

[whelenshooter]

Another great idea. That's two for me on these forums today. Thanks.


Not a problem if you use a skinny piece of mirror glued to a popsicle stick. I use one when bore sighting any gun that doesn't allow easy viewing through the breech.

A secondary use for the skinny mirror is that it gives superior viewing of the chamber and rear portions of the bore- sans a borescope.

[swheeler]

I have had one of the cheap Leupold for many years, it works.

[Reg]

3 spud Bushnell. Has worked flawlessly last 45 years.
Did order one of the .20 and .17 caliber spuds for the Sweeney and they seem to work well in the Bushnell as well. Can get them from Brownells.

[Patrick56]

Some cheap laser boresighters are nothing to trust out of the box. I put mine in a electric drill on slow rpm and watched the dot dancing on the wall. It took nearly one hour to get it adjusted.[smilie=1:

[JLarsson]

Not a problem if you use a skinny piece of mirror glued to a popsicle stick. I use one when bore sighting any gun that doesn't allow easy viewing through the breech.

A secondary use for the skinny mirror is that it gives superior viewing of the chamber and rear portions of the bore- sans a borescope.

Yep - that would be a help.

[DCM]

I put mine in a electric drill on slow rpm and watched the dot dancing on the wall.

Did you lock the drill in a vise and check the run-out on the drill chuck?
I would bet that BOTH the chuck and laser are flawed based on my experience.
Even many 3 jaw chucks on lathes have some run-out, that is why most folks either shim them or use independently adjusted jaw chucks for ultra precision work.

[plainsman456]

I use a laser to get it close then if the bolt comes out i look down the bore.

It all gets you close.

[gunshot98]

I've got dads old 3-spud bushnell, 2 unnamed lasers, & and 2 BSA kits. The BSA's get most of the work in my shop. They are pretty decent. They get me on paper at 30 yds. The old 3 spud still gets hauled out for old time sake every once in a while though.