Hollow Pointing A Cap N Ball Boolit

[rodwha]

I've heard plenty on both sides stating a pure lead ball does/does not expand. I watched a video in which a ball traveling ~900 fps did not expand, which makes me reconsider having one or two cavities in my new mold hollow pointed.

A concern of mine is the ram greatly marring/filling the cavity. If the ram were reshaped to the profile of the nose would it keep the nose from being distorted under seating pressure?

I've emailed Erik at Hollow Point Molds to see if I sent my ram if he could reduce the length ~1/8" and reshape it to that of the nose, but I'm not even certain this would keep the nose from being marred.

One of the bullets is the 170C (Accurate Molds), which is only .400" long. I'm thinking that I wouldn't want the cavity to go more than halfway through as I don't want fragmentation. But would that even be enough meat at the rear to ensure it stays whole? I'm also considering having one of the 195C (.460" long) cavities done as well, and wonder just have far back one could go? These have a .375" meplat.

Assuming that the ram can be modified would I need the walls of the hollow point rather thick?

I intend on pushing these 900-1200 fps (if I can get them that fast).

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-170C-D.png

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-195C-D.png

Experiences and thoughts?

[rodwha]

A lot of views, but no response. I sure could use some knowledgeable insight.

[Mk42gunner]

Which C&B revolver are you planning to shoot these through? I would think a flat faced rammer would be fine with either boolit, maybe get a spare to experiment with.

More importantly, just what are you planning to shoot that you think you need expansion?

My C&B revolvers are plinkers and occasional small game getters; therefore I see no need for anything other than a round ball in my guns.

Good luck,

Robert

[winelover]

Hollow pointing pure lead in cap and ball revolvers is not necessary IMO. My results, this season from a Lee 220 conical, and 30 grains of Pyrodex "P" in a Ruger Old Army.

98955


Winelover

[rodwha]

Mk42: I intend to mostly shoot them through my Pietta Remington '58, but I'd likely also shoot them through my ROA as well, and any other .44/.45 cal pistols I end up getting.

The 170C is meant for around the house. I do load my pistol up after cleaning it, and do treat it as a viable choice. For that I cannot afford the potential for 20"+ penetration, and would prefer a bigger wound anyway.

The 195C (there are 2 of these designs in the mold) would be just to do it mostly, giving me another option, and I had also considered doing one of the 285C's as well.

Winelover: Can you describe for me the wound channel? Do you know if your conical expanded? Did you get a complete passthrough? Did you hit bone? Any ida what your velocity was?

[Eutectic]

A short hollowpoint in a steep inverted cone shape would be my choice... Maybe .150" dia. at opening and .150" deep to the cone's point.

Eutectic

[Old School Big Bore]

If you have a lube sizer die in that diameter, just turn a top punch with a shallow point on it and bump the cup point onto the boolits that way. I've also seen a spare rammer with a little punch epoxied into the end that mashed a dimple into the boolits when seating.

[Multigunner]

I've drilled a hole in a .36 round ball then cut a cross in it. Results on packed clay were spectacular.

[rodwha]

I do not have a lube sizer or press, but have considered one to size my 285 grn WFN to .451" to try out of sabots, but that's a nice price to pay without knowing if it'll shoot well or not.

I'd like to know whether or not these will readily expand without needing to be hollow pointed. I suppose I ought to ask my range if it's OK to bring testing materials and rent a bay.

[John Boy]

First of all, here's the conical bullet for the 44 caliber New Model Army ... http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-155B-D.png
Specify to Tom at Accurate to cut the mold for pure lead

Secondly - no need for a hollow point on the bullets

Now, your wanting to modify the seating nose of the ram on the revolver ... your wasting your time!
Buy this seating ram, LOADING STAND FOR BLACK POWDER REVOLVER CYLINDERS ... http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-pistol-c-b-supply.html

To modify the nose shape for the conical bullet ... pour hot glue in the nose - spit on the bullet nose - twist the nose into the hot glue - remove bullet and let glue harden. Trim excess glue. You can also use JB Weld to form the bullet nose in the seating arm of the stand
Good Luck

[winelover]

Shot was taken at 15 yards from tree-stand. Conical entered just behind shoulder and was a complete pass through. Didn't recover the boolit. Both lungs were gone. Deer only traveled another 15 yards or less. Watched it fall and try to get up. No tracking involved. Have no idea of velocity. No more room for powder, anyways. Recoil with the 220 grain conical was getting close to that of a mid-range 44 Magnum, IMO

Winelover

[AbitNutz]

May be a waste of time but I bet he has fun doing it.

[fcvan]

I have a CVS 1858 Remington copy, and bought 3 Lee molds. I have the .454 RB, 450-200 conical, and a 450-200 HP conical. Back in the 70s and early 80s, Lee made single cavity HP molds. The conical HP mold had sat in a mountain man shop for so long the price tag was 11.78, the list price from long ago. The dust on the box told the tale, and the shop owner said it sat there since he opened the shop in 1977.

Cast from pure lead, the conical boolits do quite well. The HP mold actually casts fat at the base (.451) and is .454 at the front band. I rarely use the HP mold in the Remy copy, but use the heck out of it in my 1911. PCd and with a plain based gas check, this is my go to boolit in the 1911. The RB is my go to boolit for the Remy. If I ever get to where I were to take the Remy out for pig hunting, I'd use the 200 conical and don't feel the HP would be necessary. 45 is a pretty big hole and pure lead expands rather well at BP velocities.