Bolt Drops on NoGo - What now?

[catmandu]

I have a 1903 Springfield that the previous owner D&T. So I thought that putting a scope on it might not be a bad idea. I picked up a bent bolt that I could make pretty. Borrowed a NoGo gauge. Doesn't drop on the original bolt, but it does drop on the bent bolt.
So what now? How do you add metal? (I know welding) but how would a gunsmith do it if it was his rifle?

I know I can fireform cases and reserve them for this gun only. Reading on this forum that seems to be a split decision.
So please tell me what you think?

Paul in WNY

[swheeler]

I have a 1903 Springfield that the previous owner D&T. So I thought that putting a scope on it might not be a bad idea. I picked up a bent bolt that I could make pretty. Borrowed a NoGo gauge. Doesn't drop on the original bolt, but it does drop on the bent bolt.
So what now? How do you add metal? (I know welding) but how would a gunsmith do it if it was his rifle?

I know I can fireform cases and reserve them for this gun only. Reading on this forum that seems to be a split decision.
So please tell me what you think?

Paul in WNY

Sell the bent one you picked up and have the orig one altered

[petroid]

If you can check it with a field gauge and it doesn't close you should be gtg. Might be tough to extract though. I'm not a gunsmith though.

[Wolfer]

I think your correct in that most everyone has an opinion on this. The practice today is to close on go and not close on no go. Correct me if I'm wrong but in years past the practice was to close on no go and not close on field.

My 8mm military chamber will separate heads by the second shot unless cases are fire formed. I have a 270 that will close on no go, just barely. It requires no unusual case prep.

You can put a piece of tape on the back of the gauge to see how far you are past no go.
I suspect it will be just fine.

[swheeler]

Since you borrowed a no-go gage see if you can borrow a field reject gage, if it doesn't close on the field gage I'll leave it up to you IF you want to shoot it.

[catmandu]

I like the idea of adding shim to determine how far out it is. That would help making a decision on what to do next.
I found the SAMI chamber specs, now I can look for the gauge dimensions for Go, NoGo, and FR. I think I saw them on the CMP site.

Paul in WNY

[seaboltm]

Sell the bent one you picked up and have the orig one altered

Right on. it is d/t already, so no need to worry about high end collector value. have your bolt bent. Easy job.

[country gent]

Bolts vary in dimensions due to manufacturing tolerences. The way I would fix this ( other than using the original bolt) would be to set the barrel back a turn and headspace to new/replacement bolt.Thhe dimension you need to match is from Back face of locking lugs to bolt face. I would have the original bolt bent and use it. Sear and everything stays the same that way.

[lonewelder]

I would bend the original.DT there is no collector value.as has been said if it won't close on a field gauge you are ok.you would be better off and prob more accurate with the original bolt and tighter chamber

[frkelly74]

I vote to fire form some brass set it aside for this rifle and use it. When you reload the set aside brass only neck size or just have the sizer touch the shoulder of the case, do not full length size or you will start to get head separations.

[robroy]

Bend the origional bolt.

[wch]

Right on. it is d/t already, so no need to worry about high end collector value. have your bolt bent. Easy job.

Should be one of the cheapest mods you can buy.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You can also hard chrome plate the bolt face which could add up to about .002 with no problems. You would have to take it to a plater that actually does Hard Chrome work ( not the same as plating bumpers) and I would suggest trying to get them to "sample the process" to you by feeding them a story about how you have hundreds to do if the process works out.

I had the bolt on my Ruger GSR plated with Boron Nitride .0005 thick. The combination of the plating on the bolt face and on the rear of the locking lugs closed the head space a full .001 and it was noticeable.

This might work for you.

You live in Western NY,,, there will be someone near you that does "hard chrome" work. This type of finish is what you see on landing gear struts and other surfaces that are "exposed sliding surfaces."

Hope this helps.

Otherwise just bend or cut the bolt off and put a different one on. I usually just cut the old one off and weld a different one on in it's place. That way you can shape the new one however you want.

Randy

[bob208]

I would go with the hard chrome. it does not alter the heat treat like welding does.

[nanuk]

leave it straight, get a receiver sight and shoot the dang thing

[Safeshot]

I was told that the "Go" and "No Go" gages were intended to gage a "New" or "Rebuilt" ("Depot Overhaul or Re-barreled") Rifle and that the "Go" and "Field Reject" gages were used to gage the rifles "In Service" or "In the Field". Does this sound correct?

[rmcc]

Bend the bolt and don't reinvent the wheel so to speak. As stated above there are a lot of different options but the BEST and simplest is just bend the original bolt or cut it off and order one you like from Brownells and weld it back on. Make sure and use a heat sink through the bolt body. A little grinding and polishing and you are good to go.

rmcc

[nicholst55]

You can still find stripped NOS 1903-A3 bolt bodies for around $20-25 if you shop around a bit. Buy a couple, and check the headspace with them. Bend the one that gives you the best headspace, if you don't want to bend the original bolt. Sell the rest of the NOS bolts to recoup your investment, and shoot that rifle!!

[22cf45]

If it were mine and I wanted a bolt handle for a scope, I would do exactly what FrKelly74 told you. As a matter of fact, every one of my rifles has its own set of dies and brass that is only fired in that rifle. I never full length size anyway, just very barely touch the shoulder.
Phil