Dan Wesson 15 Timing

[jameslovesjammie]

My sister has a 6" Monson model 15. The gun was used considerably in the 80's, but not much since. It's in rough shape and starting to spit lead enough to where it is difficult to shoot.

Is it difficult to time a Dan Wesson? Is it like a S&W, where you install an oversized hand and fit it until it properly locks up?

[Bullwolf]

I would check the barrel to cylinder gap on the Model 15, and make sure that it is set within specifications. That is assuming you don't already know for certain that the revolver's timing is off.

If that is the case, try tightening the cylinder gap up first since you can easily change that with a non fixed barrel Dan Wesson. I haven't seen a fixed barrel Monson gun yet, and changing timing is a more complex endeavor.

Also, some of the Dan Wesson cylinder faces were not machined perfectly flush, while others can be spot on. Check to be sure that your gap is even all around. (verify the gap on each individual cylinder) If the gap is not even on each cylinder, set the gap on the proudest one.

I would try a cylinder gap somewhere between .002 and .006 and see if that remedies your spitting problem. With a too-large barrel to cylinder gap, I get lead spitting like you're reporting.

The gauge that comes with just about every model 15's in my experience is the .006 one. I have successfully gone down as far as .002, but that can possibly bind up a gun if you shoot dirty ammo. If you go too small you may need to wipe/clean the cylinder face after firing 50 rounds or so.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62556&d=1403146318&thumb=1

Generally setting a .004 gap will work well with no problems in 100 round or more batches between cleanings. Ive gone tighter too with no issues, but every gun is it's own individual.

I have seen some Super Mags come with the smaller .002 feeler gauge. You can easily use a standard automotive feeler gauge if you don't have the original DW barrel gauge.

Another Dan Wesson tip: a dab of anti seize on the barrel threads can save you a world of hassle later on down the road.

While I haven't personally made this mistake myself yet... Be sure that your barrel is threaded in with the forcing cone end next to the revolver cylinder - and NOT on the barrel nut end. If it gets set up backwards, your gun will be sure to spit lead and other debris from the cylinder gap.

You can also find a wealth of information and assistance on the Dan Wesson forums.
http://www.danwessonforum.com/




- Bullwolf

[6bg6ga]

I had a 15 about 20+ years ago and I had it spit lead once. The reason is the barrel wasn't tight. That was a lesson I never repeated and upon tightening it up I never had the problem again. I also experimented with the gap and found that eveything from just clearing up to .020 seemed to work fine with this particular model 15.

[44man]

I no longer have any paperwork on them so it is hard to remember some things.
Inside the frame is a pawl and spring and if I have it right, it pushes on the cylinder stop. I have seen them frozen in so they don't work. Mine had burrs in the hole so the pawl would not come out.
The gun is a bugger to get the hammer back in. I tied sewing thread around the hammer to hold the hand to it. Get the thread ends out in the open and once the hammer is in, cut the thread.
To get a tight barrel nut loose I put a hose in the cone with a funnel, poured a pot of boiling water through the barrel to expand it and the nut would come loose.
I have had to move the cylinder stop on a few to time them. Mine also had a cylinder front that wobbled, sent the thing back to get it faced.

[jameslovesjammie]

Thanks for the tips!

I'll check out the cylinder gap and see if it is a loose barrel first. I've got a set of feeler gauges for checking cylinder gap. The factory Dan Wesson wrench was thrown out by my uncle's ex-wife, but I see they are only about $25 on gunbroker.

44man, you're really making me hope it's a loose barrel! If it is a timing issue, this doesn't sound like it's going to be fun at all!

[kweidner]

Don't buy the wrench from DW. Get the one from EWK arms. It is actually built like a wrench, not a cheap toy. I have one for my .357 and large frame .41mag. Trust me here.

[44man]

It is not really hard to do. But check the spring and pawl, clean it up and oil it.
I am going by the seat of my pants here because I have not worked on a DW in a LOOOOONG time.
Make sure you have a tiny amount of side to side play in the cylinder, not a super tight lock up. You should just barely feel movement.
The DW was never cleaned up inside good, kind of rough but once right they are deadly accurate. A lot of the insides were "as cast."

[Doc Highwall]

44man, I don't remember any area being "as cast" only fully machined and then the whole inside if the frame was sandblasted the reason I know this is because that was my first job when I worked there in 1975-1976 in the polishing and bluing room. When I left in 1976 to go back to my job that I was laid off from I was running the bluing tanks doing over 250 guns a day.

[M-Tecs]

Don't buy the wrench from DW. Get the one from EWK arms. It is actually built like a wrench, not a cheap toy. I have one for my .357 and large frame .41mag. Trust me here.

The EWK wrench is also my recommendation. http://www.ewkarms.com/zen8/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5

[44man]

44man, I don't remember any area being "as cast" only fully machined and then the whole inside if the frame was sandblasted the reason I know this is because that was my first job when I worked there in 1975-1976 in the polishing and bluing room. When I left in 1976 to go back to my job that I was laid off from I was running the bluing tanks doing over 250 guns a day.
Mine was ROUGH inside. Early ones were better. I think mine was made when they changed hands. The barrel also pointed to the left out of the frame. Those I worked on were not early ones either. All were really rough inside. Sometime in the later 80's.
I do not remember dates for the DW but they went to pot. New owners. I swear the insides of mine were just sand cast with no machining past what was needed.

[osteodoc08]

So if it has a loose barrel, does that make it a loose cannon?:grin:

OP, I hope that you can get this sorted out. If it isnt a loose barrel, perhaps you can call them to see what can be done. I've had recent good luck with Ruger.

I missed out on a Monson made 22 revolver late last year and am kicking myself ever since.

[jameslovesjammie]

The EWK wrench is also my recommendation. http://www.ewkarms.com/zen8/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5

Yup, the EWK is the wrench I was looking at. I'll order it in a few weeks when things settle down with work.

Thanks for all the help, guys!

[MT Gianni]

Another thing to try is numbering each cylinder and firing a couple of rounds out of each to see if they are all spitting or just one. That might let you know how better to precede.