Casting/Loading for WASR 10

[Animal]

Hey guys, I've been trying to make myself think of other things, but my mind keeps fixating on casting and loading for my WASR 10 ak. I understand that this isn't the type of rifle that is known for precision, but I think I've gotten lucky. With factory sights and cheap Russian ammo, I'm getting 1in groups at 50 yards. When I got this rifle I expected to be able to hit softballs at 50 yards, but instead I got a rifle that hits golf balls at 50 yards. I feel like I'm a pretty lucky fella.

By no means do I intend to replace cheap factory ammo with my own special recipe, but I'd really like to see what kind of accuracy this rifle is capable of with cast handloads. If I'm able to exceed the performance of cheap ammo, I'd like to keep a load on the books for when I need a super accurate load, perhaps for hunting or just bragging rights. By no means will I use it in high volume. I do not yet own any other rifle and I don't plan to for a good while. This load should potentially be able to give similar accuracy at 100 yards as can be expected from a good bolt-action rifle.

It would seem that Lee is the only company that offers a mold suitable for this cartridge: CTL312-160-2R and C312-155-2R 7.62x39mm. The 2 powders I have on hand is Alliant 2400 and IMR4227. I've seen where both powders have been used for this cartridge, but I've heard that 4227 gives problems when cycling the gas-piston (which probably isn't a problem as long as I can chamber the next round manually).

I do not own a Lubesizer so I rely on tumble lubing and pan lubing.

In short, here are a few questions:
1. What can I expect from a good cast load in this rifle?
2. Are gas checks necessary? and are Lees sizing dies good for installing gas checks?
3. LLA has worked well in all my handguns, is it up to snuff for a rifle load?
4. I have 3 alloys to work with; clip-on and stick-on wheel weights, and scrapped commercial cast and jacketed lead.

Primer and brass recommendations will be appreciated.

I haven't found a great deal of information online for what I'm wanting to do, but have found enough to feel comfortable moving forward if some experienced ak casters give me the green light. I don't know why I have this fixation, but it will drive me nuts if I don't put it to rest. Thanks guys.

[Del-Ray]

There is a free down load able book here somewhere. It has a great write up about loading cast for SKS rifles, which should apply for an AK as well.

Here: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm


That is a great book. The load I remember was sub sonic. And required manual bolt manipulation. Though out of a SKS could shoot more accurate then most shooters.

[NuJudge]

There are several articles above that are pinned that you might want to look at, especially this one:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?13453-Practical-Dope-on-the-7-62X39

There are several other molds that you might want to look at, that I have used. Lyman has the 311359, and NOE has a 129gr bullet also.

You might want to find out what your groove diameter is before doing anything.

You might want to try pan lubing, as an alternative to tumble lubing, especially for lower temperatures. Get some of Lars 50/50 lube, and cut the bullets out of the lube cake with a fired .30-.30 case you have cut the head off of.

Gas checks really are a structural support for the bullet base, not really a gas check. If you run velocities over 1300 fps, you will need them. They will help with some barrels even under that velocity. Also, if your bullet is slightly undersize for your groove diameter, a gas check on a bullet sized in a die that is correct for the groove diameter may let you get away with it. Lee push-through sizing dies will apply a gas check.

Of your three different Lead supplies, the stick-on Lead will be pure, dead soft Lead, and useless at the velocities and pressures necessary for AK functioning. Clip on Lead wheelweights will be Lead with some Antimony, and perhaps a little Tin, and with a little more Tin will make a fine bullet for an AK or SKS. Scrap jacketed bullets will be really soft lead, with perhaps a little antimony in them for hardening, and with some Tin will be ok. Scrap Lead bullets will be anything from soft, pure Lead to similar to wheelweights. Something you will find with Lead is that Lead, with some Antimony and Tin, when dropped from the mold into a 5-gallon bucket of water, will produce a marvelously hard bullet, capable of being driven much faster with accuracy and less Leading.

Something else you will find with Lead bullets, in general, is that they will shoot better the less sizing you do of them. Lead metallurgy has some real peculiar aspects, amongst them being that if you do any sizing of a hard, as-cast bullet, it may end up being softer after sizing.

[historicfirearms]

I like the NOE 155 boolit. Works well in all my AK's and sks. Second on slugging your bore and measure the inside mouth of a fired case. Throats tend to be very generous. I size mine to .315". Gas checks are required if you want a load that will cycle. I don't use LLA but it probably might work. You can seat gas checks with a push-through sizer.