Colloidal Graphite in Isopropanol

[Sendaro]

Back around 2004 I was given a small (2.0 oz) bottle of colloidal graphite in isopropanol. Have enjoyed success coating my molds with it before casting. I de-grease my molds with carb cleaner, clean cotton rags and Q-tips. I then coat the mold with the graphite. It dries on fast and I usually give the mold a second coat. The boolits drop out of the mold easily and lead sticking to the mold is not a problem. Does anyone know where I can buy some more of this? The label on my bottel can not be read.
Also I believe that the graphite maybe working as a lube on the sprue plate pivot. I have been reluctant to try bees wax on it as I fear it will flow into the mold cavity and screw up the quality of the casting.
Would like to hear from those of you in the know.

Thanks, Sendaro

[dsmjon]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221382753901?lpid=82

Should also be available at many car repair shop/stealerships that use BG products.

[Sendaro]

Thanks, I will check out those suggestion.

Sendaro

[Dan Cash]

Go to a local farm implement store or farm supply store and get a product called Slip-Plate. Probably costs about $10.00 a quart.

[Maven]

NAPA Auto Parts also carries a graphite/alcohol product: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Lubricant-Graphite-Based-Spray-On-9-25-oz/_/R-MCN1412_0410678725

[Idz]

I used to use a 'paint' similar to this that was marketed as "Aqua-Dag"

[runfiverun]

you could just buy some lock-smiths graphite [colloidal] and some rubbing alcohol and pour the two together.
it may cost 2-3 dollars for a whole pint.

[Toymaker]

Sounds like Rapine mold prep. I use it, to good success.

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=8095&osCsid=dced

[w5pv]

A number 2 pencil works also

[375RUGER]

DAG 156 and Neolube No. 1 are the brands I've used in a past life.

[Sendaro]

375Ruger where do I buy the DAG 156? Please advise. I tried the graphite in 91% alcohol and it does not stick to the mould at all. I have a small jar that is marked DAG 156 that does a great job. It sticks to the mold very nicely.
thanks, Sendaro

[375RUGER]

I'm don't think you can even suspend regular powdered graphite in 100% alcohol.
.
www.applied.com might have it or another similar, I'm not at work so I can't look in the catalog.
.
you can get the neo-lube here
http://www.micromark.com/neolube-2-fl-oz,8383.html
.
The DAG 156 and Neo-lube No.1 and 2 are Mil-spec/Nuclear. So don't get caught up looking for 156 specifically, DAG 154 is popular commercial product and easier to find.
A visit to your local piano store may yield a similar product.

[bangerjim]

There is a "white" lube that works great in locks and places where you do not want graphite all over your hands and clothes.

Got it at Lowe's. Blaster "The Dry Lube". Could work just as well. Have never use it for molds.

Contains Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) as the lube in suspension and temp limits may come into play. No real temp info in MSDS.

FYI: But if not for molds, it sure kicks butte for everything else around the house/farm/shop! Try it.

banger

[yondering]

Back around 2004 I was given a small (2.0 oz) bottle of colloidal graphite in isopropanol. Have enjoyed success coating my molds with it before casting. I de-grease my molds with carb cleaner, clean cotton rags and Q-tips. I then coat the mold with the graphite. It dries on fast and I usually give the mold a second coat. The boolits drop out of the mold easily and lead sticking to the mold is not a problem. Does anyone know where I can buy some more of this? The label on my bottel can not be read.
Also I believe that the graphite maybe working as a lube on the sprue plate pivot. I have been reluctant to try bees wax on it as I fear it will flow into the mold cavity and screw up the quality of the casting.
Would like to hear from those of you in the know.

Thanks, Sendaro

Very interesting. Is this stuff a thin liquid, or more of a paste/grease consistency?

[375RUGER]

Extremely thin liquid. When the alcohol evaporates off it leaves a layer of graphite that is about 10 microns thick or less.

[Sekatoa]

Extremely thin liquid. When the alcohol evaporates off it leaves a layer of graphite that is about 10 microns thick or less.

Exactly.

I used to use the Frankford Arsenal graphited spray "Drop Out" on my molds when I was new to casting. After I found I didn't really need it, and that my molds actually worked, as designed, better without it, I stopped using it. I used it up on my ingot molds, just to help things out on the rougher ones. After it was gone, I acquired some cast iron cookie molds I like to use for some ingots...I use different molds for different metals and alloys, then I never risk mixing them up...anyway, one was pretty sticky due to the finer details. Really must made bad cookies. I was out if Drop Out, and didn't want to spent $14 + shipping to see if it helped. So, I knew I had some graphite products in my old locksmith tool box. I had a little Lock-Ease left.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/22/evy3y7yn.jpg

From the manufacturer :
Protects against sticking, rust, and freezing. Lock-Ease makes locks work easier year-round. Prevents sticking, guards against rust and wear. Helps seal out moisture from working parts, providing maximum protection against freezing. Enters as a rapid penetrant coating all lock parts. The special “carrier” then evaporates, leaving a graphited long-wearing film. After evaporation, will not run, even in hottest climates…won’t harden at sub-zero temperatures. Suggested Applications: Recommended for all types of locks, household appliances, tools, guns, reels and other mechanisms.

So I tried it out. I accelerated the evaporation by heating the molds over my smelting burner (careful, it's flammable). Seems like it might have helped the ones that didn't need it, but the not the sticky one too much. But, I think the resulting film is much thinner than the Drop Out coating, so it might have merit for sticky bullet molds. I think I'd definitely prefer that to Kroil method, which I wasn't too impressed with.

It is widely available at most Hardware stores, even Walmart, where it's probably the cheapest. It's also available in a squeeze bottle, which might work better for applying only a small amount on the sprue plate or pins. Just make sure the solvent has all evaporated before subject to molten lead. It will smoke a lot if use you hot plate or burner to speed it up, so it's an outside or at least open garage door job.

[Sendaro]

Hey Guys, Found out where to buy the DAG 156 in 2 oz bottle. Ger-Tan rifle sells the stuff, and really like using it on my molds. I clean the mold with carb cleaner and then paint on the DAG 156 that is colloidal graphite in isopropanol. It dryes very fast and the bullets drop out of the mold nicely. Also there is nearly nevcer any gauling of lead under the sprue plate. You can reach Greag Tannel at 1 970 878-5421. I have also purchase a can of NAPA Mac's 1413 dry graphite film lubricant that sparys on a very thin coating of graphite. I have not tried it on a mold as of yet but it appears to me that it is going to work fine.

Sendaro

[Love Life]

I like the Drop Out mould release for those rare instances when I want a smaller boolit to drop, or a smaller GC shank. That stuff definitely goes on thick and can be a real help at times.

[Sekatoa]

I found Kano Labs, the maker of Kroil, makes two graphite products, one for very high heat, "Pyrolube", the other sounds more similar to something Lock-Ease,"Dryphite":

http://www.kanolabs.com/indLub.html

I'm temped to buy some Pyrolube just because it has a cool name! But smallest size is one gallon for $70. Any one interested in going in on it? I'm game if I got three people wanting a quart for $17.50 plus shipping (1/4 whatever it is from Kana, and shipping to you)

[JackQuest]

Reviving a very old thread. My first bottle of Neolube was half empty when it somehow found its way into my seabag as I got off the submarine and returned to 'normal' life. Finding a new bottle took some time.

Neolube can be purchased at www.micromark.com - this is a model train site; they sell it as the perfect dark gray 'paint' for tank cars and such. It is also an electrical conductor so it doesn't conflict with the locomotives.

Neolube is MicroMark part number 83181 and at the time of this thread addition sells for $27.95. A 2 ounce bottle can last you 20 years. If you spill it clean immediately with isopropyl alcohol. After it dries in fabric it is virtually impossible to remove.

I have used Neolube to break in new stainless steel weapons. Stainless sliding on stainless will gall and feel rough. You put 2 thin coats on all surfaces of your weapon that slide or rub each other. Say you are shooting a new stainless steel 1911. After lubricating, shoot 100-200 rounds of ammo through the weapon, then alcohol clean the Neolube out and replace with a teflon micro-bead lube. The difference will be a nice surprise. You can use it on carbon steel parts but improvement is most noticeable with stainless steel.

If you shoot a lot in below freezing temperatures Neolube is great because it is water repellant, it is already solid so it cannot jam your weapon by getting thicker.

[762 shooter]

LockEase

Graphited lock fluid.