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View Full Version : Anyone here ever rebarrel a Marlin 336?



bassetman1974
03-01-2014, 05:40 PM
I've been wanting a custom Marlin 336 for some time. After much research, I discovered most gunsmiths run from the idea. The one's that are willing to take on such projects are backed up a least a year. So, I decided to attempt to do this myself with the reluctant help of two gunsmiths who chamber bench rest rifles.

I'm familiar with rebarreling a push feed bolt action, but this is a different animal. The square threads, extractor cut, and hood on the end of the chamber don't look like fun, but it's doable. There are no lugs like a Rem 700 and I must admit I'm at a bit of a loss of what to measure so I can figure out my tenon length. The 30-30 take off barrel appears to just touch the bolt nose ring when the bolt is locked. I included a pic and you can see the marks on the bottom right on the face of the chamber. I checked another 30-30 Marlin 336 of the same vintage and removed the extractor so I could see what's happening when I chamber a case and the half bolt nose ring just barely touches the chamber.

Do you guys cut the tenon so it just touches the bolt nose ring? Any tips would be appreciated.

thanks,

BM

Bullshop
03-01-2014, 05:53 PM
You might try Denis Olson in Plains Mt. He did one for a friend of mine chambered in 7mm Waters.
OOPS!!! Should have read first. I thought you were looking for a smith, sorry.

Nobade
03-01-2014, 06:34 PM
Last one I did, I just copied the factory barrel. The bolt should ALMOST hit the barrel in places, and of course the most important thing is to get the length right so it headspaces correctly. The cutouts are easy - just draw around the ejection port with a scribe once the barrel is torqued down and cut to the lines with a milling machine. I was intimidated the first time I tried one, but after doing it I'd say it's no big deal. Oh, make sure you grind your threading bit so it is light tight in the original threads. That was the hardest part for me to get perfect.

-Nobade

bassetman1974
03-01-2014, 06:55 PM
Thanks Nobade for the words of confidence. I am going to cheat and copy the take off barrel but I'd really like to know how to do it from scratch. The rimmed cartridge is also intimidating for me. If the bolt nose is touching the end of the chamber and the case rim is fills up the recess from the bolt face to the front of the chamber, then do I just ream deep enough until the go gauge will fit? Like I said, this is just so different than a Rem 700. Maybe I'm just over thinking.

Would you mind elaborating on the threading difficulties?

John Taylor
03-01-2014, 10:47 PM
Measure from the bolt face to the action face and subtract the rim thickness. Most lever guns work best with about .004" headspace. You would be amazed at the headspace on some of the older rifle that people are still shooting, had one in a while back with .025".

Bullshop Junior
03-01-2014, 10:51 PM
Centexbill has one he rebarreled.
Not sure if he did it himself, or had someone do it for him though.

bassetman1974
03-01-2014, 10:55 PM
Measure from the bolt face to the action face and subtract the rim thickness. Most lever guns work best with about .004" headspace. You would be amazed at the headspace on some of the older rifle that people are still shooting, had one in a while back with .025".

That's what I needed to hear. Thank You!