New ramrod needed

[koehlerrk]

I'm looking for opinions and ideas for a new ramrod... actually, two of them.

I have a TC Hawken 50 cal with a 28" barrel. The rod that stores under the barrel isn't original, it's a chunk of brown plastic with brass ends glued on. It has all the rigidity of a piece of half-cooked spaghetti. First off, am I better off replacing that with a treated wood rod or a fiberglass one?

Second, I want a nice rod for range use. Since I can't find what I want, I'm thinking about building it. Start with a 36" long section of 3/8" OD 1/4" ID stainless steel tube. Pin a 1/4" OD x #10-32 brass or stainless threaded insert into the lower end, and a nice 1-1/2" stainless knob on the other end.

Has anyone here seen one like this? Do you think it will be stiff enough? Should I add a bore guide? Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

Rick

[Good Cheer]

3/8"OD x 1/8"ID brass tube will work and be softer than the barrel steel if that's a concern. And the softness of the brass makes it a little easier to tap the threads for the jags without drilling the bore. That's how I made the rod for a TC Renegade flinter rebored to .58.

[fouronesix]

One piece steel or brass ramrods are excellent. With steel, especially if it is stiff (hardened alloy of some type) instead of drilling and tapping the end for common attachments, you can use a die to thread one end. Use the same diameter and thread pitch as one of the adaptors available from Dewey. Much easier to keep everything on axis that way without having to use something like a lathe to drill the pilot (if you don't have a lathe). Then just use regular, readily available brass jags that fit the adaptor.

A simple turned hardwood handle works well for the handle on a range rod. Similar to a large file handle.

A muzzle guard is simple and certainly prevents scrubbing the muzzle end of the bore. In a pinch, you can use a brass gas fitting- available from hardware/plumbing stores. A simple turned delrin muzzle guard also works very well.

Make sure any screw-in/on attachment won't come off then get shot out of the bore. It happens! Usually without damage, but they add recoil and are very poor projectiles.

[Zymurgy50]

A section of thin wall shrink tubing on the range rod will eliminate the need for a rod guide, could be had for a couple bucks.

[aspangler]

Just check out Dixie Gun Works. I bought a blank for my 45 Kentucky and had it in two days. They have brass, aluminum, and fiberglass. I think they also have wood if that is what you want but not me. I've seen too many split and go through hands.

[mooman76]

I basically have wooden ramrods for all my MLs. I do not use them as they are just the cheap ones that came with the ML rifles when I got them. I have replacement rods I use that are made of just about every material they have for this purpose. I don't like the wimpy plastic ones either but they still do the job. I prefer the stiffer plastic ones. If you go with wood, get the straight grained hickory rods from a good ML dealer. Some people swear by them and some swear against them.

[bob208]

I have been using the same plastic rod since 85. it is called a super rod. the fiberglass you mite as well use a fine file as a ramrod. the problem with wood or the plastic is people don't know how to use them. they think you grab them and seat the ball in one stroke. when you should actually walk the ball down about 6" at a time

[Whiterabbit]

My range rods are all 3/8" brass rod. Love-em. Got tired of hauling them to the range in 1 piece, so one got cut in half, the other into three pieces. Threaded with a 1/4-20 insert so they all link together. Makes a GREAT range rod.

[koehlerrk]

A section of thin wall shrink tubing on the range rod will eliminate the need for a rod guide, could be had for a couple bucks.

That's a fantastic idea! Thank you Zymurgy50!

I guess my plan as of today is to go to the LGS, get a fiberglass rod and try it as a range rod before I cut it down to fit under the barrel. I'll probably use the cut-off piece to make a better short starter than what I currently have. If the fiberglass rod works exceptionally well, I'll just get another one, otherwise I'll build the stainless rod and heat-shrink it.

Thanks everyone for your opinions and help, much appreciated!

[Whiterabbit]

I would break the heat shrink after 50 rounds, I guarantee it.

I use these:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/imgPart/rod-guide_1.jpg

I buy a half dozen, then open up as needed for my various rods.