BT 1step dies really 1step?

[Astroangler]

I was reading a number of other post about the incredible 40sw dies by BTSniper and read that he now makes 1step dies. However I read something about the universal dies being a good compliment to the 1step. I'm not sure how this works. What is the universal dies for? I think I understand that the 1step die is for forming the case and lead into a fully formed jacketed projectile with options for varying points; xtp, hollow point, etc. I'm really seriously considering getting one but wanted to be sure I knew what to ask for when it comes to ordering. Btw, I'm using a rcbs rock chucked press. I think it will do the job. Thanks for any insights you guys can share with a newbie!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I believe the universal die you speak of, creases the case so when formed, your bullet has a similar look as the XTP style bullet. and when expanded, looks like a star. You don't need that die, it's just as option for the "one-step" die.

They both work great... they turn cheap 9mm cases into Jacketed 40 cal bullets.

[BT Sniper]

You could simply drop a 120 grain .356 core into a clean 9mm case and with one pull of the press get a perfectly shootable 40 cal JHP bullet. Now for proper and easier bullet formation it is recommended that you fully anneal your 9mm brass first, this will also reduce were and tear on your quality dies. Now if you want the .356 core to drop easily and all the way to the bottom of the 9mm case you can either bell the mouth with a 9mm expander die or better yet use my universal die with case prep/expanding mandrel that will take the internal diameter of the 9mm case out to .370id and .395od. The same time you expand or bell the case you simply use the mandrel to push the core to the bottom of the case, this is commonly referred to as "seating the core." Then if you want to get fancy you can add an additional step before the bullet is formed and XTP notch the top of the jacket that will form perfect XTP copy bullets with the notched jacket tip.

With any of these steps it is still only one push into the bullet forming die to make your perfect 40 cal JHP bullet. The question is how much prep work do you wish to do before final bullet formation to determine the quality of bullet you wish to make.

Could be as simple as

1. clean your 9mm brass
2. drop 120 grain core in case and push into bullet forming (point form) die

Better option would be to

Step 1. Fully anneal your 9mm brass
Step 2. Clean all scale from brass with Stainless Steel media tumbler
Step 3. expand 9mm brass with my universal die and case prep/expanding mandrel
Step 4. use same universal die mandrel to push the lead core into bottom of jacket
Step 5. (optional) for the Ultimate 40 cal bullet after seating the core use my BTX notch die to notch the top of the jacket for perfect XTP bullets.
Step 6. form perfect bullet with one push into the bullet formation (point form) die



The 40 cal is by far IMOP the cheapest bullet to make and shoot and could be the easiest bullet to make too. Many here are pretty happy making and shooting these 40 cal bullets made from scrap 9mm brass.

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1060947.jpg (http://s636.photobucket.com/user/BTSniper/media/P1060947.jpg.html)

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1060026.jpg (http://s636.photobucket.com/user/BTSniper/media/P1060026.jpg.html)

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1060064.jpg (http://s636.photobucket.com/user/BTSniper/media/P1060064.jpg.html)

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1060066.jpg (http://s636.photobucket.com/user/BTSniper/media/P1060066.jpg.html)

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1050552.jpg (http://s636.photobucket.com/user/BTSniper/media/P1050552.jpg.html)

Good shooting and swage on!

[runfiverun]

when it comes to swaging the more time and care you take the better your results will be.
when I make my 31 cal bullets it's about a 10 step program.
if I try to take short cuts, the on target results become so-so instead of the bullets shooting to the rifles potential.

I'd recommend you get a core seat die and the point form die and
anneal and clean the cases at the minimum.
I have skipped the [real good] cleaning steps and the bullets shoot okay, but it is rough on the dies and the scale and such can't be good in the gun.

[Astroangler]

Ok I get the anneal process to make an even more quality bullet, but BT, if I understand you right, once I do that I can do everything else in one step?

[runfiverun]

yeah, drop in the appropriate soft lead core and make a bullet.

[BT Sniper]

Once your brass is annealed and cleaned yes, all you have to do is drop in a 120 grain .356 core and form a JHP bullet.

Typically the mouth of the 9mm is dinged or a bit small to allow the .356 lead boolit to simply "drop" into the case, this is why we bell the mouth or expand the entire case with the expanding mandrel.

Does this help or make one more confused?

BT

[Astroangler]

Is the expanding mandrel in the 1step die or is that an extra step? Thanks for your patience with me!

[BT Sniper]

Separate die, extra step.

You could have as many as three dies,

1. Universal die that holds the case prep/expanding mandrel
2. Multicaliber BTX notch die to copy the Hornday XTP bullets
3. Bullet forming die (point form die) The one die that "is" required, obviously.

BT

[Astroangler]

Ah ok! So the universal die preps the case by belling the case. The bullet firming die forms it and the btx die makes it have the xtp look to finish it off. If I wanted to do it all I'd be looking for the three piece die set other wise what would the two piece die set consist off? Thanks BT!

[anotherred]

For a two die set you would have the universal prep die to bell the mouth and expand the whole case. Next drop in the core. Then either first use the xtp notch die, or go right to nose form die. The xtp die is really cool, but I've been skipping that step to speed up production for plinking bullets. I really have to suggest getting the auto eject for making the bullets. Is speeds things up so much and well worth the expense. Last tip I got is hang a bucket right next to the press. Works great for sizing the brass, and point form. Just drop the brass/bullet in the bucket and make the next one. Once you get on a roll, you'll have a pile in no time. I usually end up with just over a hundred at a sitting. Doesn't take much time then. Do that each night after work for a week and you'll be ready for a fun weekend.

[Astroangler]

How does the auto eject work? What is it ejecting from-the dies themselves? I've heard about it, but wasn't sure how it works, thanks anotherred!

[anotherred]

Stickey at the top of this forum, watch the video on post 2. Should answer the question on auto eject
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?70121-40-cal-from-9mm-easiest-by-far-and-cheap!

[Astroangler]

I watched the video. Are you saying that the bullet will not fall out of the die when the shell plate portion of the press is lowered back down? Or are you saying that the ejection part is what the shell holder is now?

[runfiverun]

the auto eject comes down on top of the die and presses the bullet back out.
if you don't use the auto-eject you have to knock the bullet out with a hammer.
just the way it is even with the C&H, corbins, etc..

I'm working on getting all my dies set-up on one press so I can use the auto-eject on everything.
it's faster/easier on me/and saves the dies from a pounding.

[Astroangler]

Ah ok, that makes sense now. So the three set of dies and the auto eject would be a three step process with the auto eject helping with the bullet forming die and the BTX look correct?

[runfiverun]

the auto eject comes down on top of the die and presses the bullet back out.
if you don't use the auto-eject you have to knock the bullet out with a hammer.
just the way it is even with the C&H, corbins, etc..

I'm working on getting all my dies set-up on one press so I can use the auto-eject on everything.
it's faster/easier on me/and saves the dies from a pounding.

[anotherred]

Ah ok, that makes sense now. So the three set of dies and the auto eject would be a three step process with the auto eject helping with the bullet forming die and the BTX look correct?

Yep, 3 one step dies.

[Astroangler]

10-4, thanks a bunch fellas. You all have helped to clear up my confusion and pump up my excitement concerning these dies!

[Dryball]

You won't be disappointed in BT's dies. Come on Astroangler...jump in the pool with the rest of us!!! BTW, make sure to read all the posts and instructions that come with the dies (several times). Doing so may seem confusing but it allows you to produce better boolits quicker. And, BT is great with a call or pm in the event you have questions down the road.

[a.squibload]

In post #3 above, step 2 can be replaced with:

soak brass in a hot solution of citric acid for 15 min,
rinse brass,
dry,
tumble with almost anything ( I use rice, it's cheap).
I do this with all my brass, makes it nice & shiny clean.
Your swaged boolits will look like store-bought!

Another thing (if you're cheap like me) you can use a 38/357 case expander
if you already have one, all you need is to make sure the boolit (core) will fit into
the case so you don't deform the case, then use the expander to seat the core.
Then once you get up & running you can get BT's expander/seater.

I still get funny looks with these, handed a swaged 40 to a guy the other night,
he said "This one's already shot, right?" 'cause of the dented primer.
After more explanation his eyes lit up, "That's just the bullet part?"
Kinda fun to show 'em off, even some reloaders don't get it at first.

[BT Sniper]

Put together one of these dies for a customer today. Been a while since I made any 40 cal bullets but I had to enjoy the ease of making these bullets again. Customer just got the basic improved CH die, no fancy BTX notch die or expander die.

As I set the die up for him I ......

1) used clean annealed 9mm brass that had been belled in a 9mm expander die
2) simply placed a 120 grain cast boolit right side up in the case (didn't even push it to the bottom of the case with the expander die, the bullet forming process will do it for you) and pushed it into the bullet forming die. DONE!

It just doesn't get any easier then that in my opinion. You guys do more steps then that when reloading!

I found that using the cast boolit right side up actually worked a little better then nose down for making these bullets with belled cases and no xtp notches. It worked better because it was a tradition cast boolit with the large lube groove. Using softer lead or a "TL" (tumble lube) cast boolit would work even better.

Notice in the picture below, the belled mouth of the case as well as the bullet formation. Notice the slight wrinkle (located at the junction of the barring surface and the start to the curve of the nose of the bullet) in the bullet on the right? That is where the jacket folded in on it's self slightly in the void of the lube groove. Notice how the bullet on the left formed without this wrinkle. The example on the left is what I pushed into the die, didn't bother pushing it into the case, out popped the perfect 182 grain JHP .400 bullet! EASY! CHEAP! PERFECT! What more could you want when youc an shoot your 40 or 10mm for the cost of 5 grains of powder and a primer!

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/026_zps1878f708.jpg (http://s636.photobucket.com/user/BTSniper/media/026_zps1878f708.jpg.html)


Good shooting and swage on!

BT