Thoughts on initial Lock n Load set up and usage

[osteodoc08]

Finally had a few hours to dedicate to getting this thing set up.

I removed my Lyman Turret from my bench and placed the LnL in it's place. I bolted it down. Set up was a snap and took about 20 minutes to get the press bolted down, Shellplate on, primer tube and powder dispenser. I then degreased everything with rubbing alcohol, tossed the baffle in and poured some LilGun in the hopper. The adjustment on the powder dispenser was reminiscent of the RCBS Uniflow. I got it set up to throw a 22gr charge and checked it 5 times. Dead on 22.0 to 22.1 for each throw. Good enough for me. I rechecked all the adjustments on my dies and started to load. I liked the fact that could easily see the amount of powder in the cases as I had the powder dispenser in the 3rd slot. It was easy to load an empty casing with my left hand and toss a bullet on with my right hand. Coming from a SDB there was a ton of room for my hands. Possibly more than my fathers 550. Auto indexing was very nice. Positive start and stop points and it didn't slosh powder out. I've done that a ton I the Dillon 550. I noticed that the white plastic rod that goes into the primer tube is not marked so it's hard to tell when you're getting close to running out. I remedied this by marking the rod sticking out of the empty primer tube with a sharpie as a visual reminder.

The only issue I ran into, which was very annoying, was a malfunctioning autoject. It would either not pop off and continue to station 1, pop off and end up in the floor, pop off and end up in the Akro bin with the retention spring thingy springing out of its groove on the Shellplate. Very very very temperamental and frustrating. Gotta figure out that issue.

As a side note, it was a PITA to get the bushings in and be able to adjust the collars. When I went to loosen the collars, the bushing would loosen as well. I just tightened down the bushings with a pair of pliers, got the die adjusted then locked the collars. It'll be super simple to pop them in and out now.

Because of the easy set up, consistent powder measure and smooth actuation, I give the press a Grade of B+. Penalized for the autoject, not coming with a PTX dies already (or at least with the Shellplate), no low primer warning, and bushings I had to figure out.

Having used a Dillon for years, I don't think the Hornady an inferior design, however, the Dillon did seem a little more polished in fit and finish. And the conversion kits come with the appropriate PTX. Hornady doesn't even have on for my beloved 41 Mag.

[Guardian]

The only issue I ran into, which was very annoying, was a malfunctioning autoject. It would either not pop off and continue to station 1, pop off and end up in the floor, pop off and end up in the Akro bin with the retention spring thingy springing out of its groove on the Shellplate. Very very very temperamental and frustrating. Gotta figure out that issue.

As a side note, it was a PITA to get the bushings in and be able to adjust the collars. When I went to loosen the collars, the bushing would loosen as well. I just tightened down the bushings with a pair of pliers, got the die adjusted then locked the collars. It'll be super simple to pop them in and out now.

Sorry if this is obvious and you've already done it, but you did hold the spring down at the eject station after you put the shell plate on and cycle the handle a couple times, right? There's a groove in the subplate that you have to work the spring into every time you change the shell plate. This pulls the spring down to allow the completed case to eject. Once the spring in the subplate groove and beneath the shell plate, you pretty much have to take the shellplate off or break the spring to get it out of that groove.

If that doesn't solve it, inspect the nub on the subplate that ejects the case. It may have a burr on it that needs to be polished off. Occasionally, you may have a case that has a burr on the edge of the rim. this will cause the case to lodge against the ejector nub. When that happens, spin the case clockwise as you pull it sideways and it should come right out.

Regarding the die bushings, they will unlock when you turn counter-clockwise; but, keep turning and they will catch and allow you to loosen the lock ring on the die.

HTH

[bbqncigars]

Check Inline fabrication for some options that will make your life easier. My AP has a modified Dillon low primer alarm with a fishing sinker crimped on the rod where just one primer is left in the tube.

[osteodoc08]

Sorry if this is obvious and you've already done it, but you did hold the spring down at the eject station after you put the shell plate on and cycle the handle a couple times, right? There's a groove in the subplate that you have to work the spring into every time you change the shell plate. This pulls the spring down to allow the completed case to eject. Once the spring in the subplate groove and beneath the shell plate, you pretty much have to take the shellplate off or break the spring to get it out of that groove.

If that doesn't solve it, inspect the nub on the subplate that ejects the case. It may have a burr on it that needs to be polished off. Occasionally, you may have a case that has a burr on the edge of the rim. this will cause the case to lodge against the ejector nub. When that happens, spin the case clockwise as you pull it sideways and it should come right out.

Regarding the die bushings, they will unlock when you turn counter-clockwise; but, keep turning and they will catch and allow you to loosen the lock ring on the die.

HTH

When I put the spring on I placed it on the far side of the Shellplate and pulled it around the Shellplate as it dropped into the groove. I then cycled it a few times. It seemed GTG. I loaded up 50 rounds and everything worked well except the ezject. I'll fiddle with it tonight

[Moonman]

Osteodoc08,

Did you take the time to watch the videos I referred you too?

If not Please GOOGLE and watch;

HORNADY LNL-AP SET UP HINTS AND TRICKS, will answer your questions.

Follow the video or Guardians advice.

Your EJECT SPRING is probably NOT CORRECTLY INSTALLED!

If you want a PRIMER WARNING SYSTEM, InLineFabrication.com sells the Dillon Painted RED.

I use a Magic Marker marked rod myself.

I cut a Clear SHEET PROTECTOR to fit inside of my powder measure tube to protect from CHEMICAL DISCOLORATION.

InlineFabrication also sells ULTRAMOUNTS of different heights 9 5/8"-6" or 4"

if you would want to raise the working height of your press.

Did you PLACE SOME (very little) POWDERED GRAPHITE in the powder measure and cycle through a few times?

This LUBRICATES the Rotor and Stuff.

DID YOU REPLACE THE FLAT WASHER WITH A LOCK WASHER ON THE SHELL PLATE?

Does your Stroke on the powder measure HIT THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE SLOT?

One insures LOADING THE ROTOR, the other EMPTYING THE CHARGE, for consistency.

IF IT IS NOT HITTING BOTH ENDS OF THE SLOT, IT IS NOT CORRECTLY ADJUSTED.

Did you De-BURR everything, EJECT NUB under the Shellplate, edges of Primer Slide? Graphite Lube?

Investing your time and not being in a great hurry will reward your efforts immensely.

[JASON4X4]

Watch the 5 videos on YouTube I made all the modifications to mine and have never had a problem this was my 1st press and first time reloading

[osteodoc08]

Osteodoc08,

Did you take the time to watch the videos I referred you too?

If not Please GOOGLE and watch;

HORNADY LNL-AP SET UP HINTS AND TRICKS, will answer your questions.

Follow the video or Guardians advice.

Your EJECT SPRING is probably NOT CORRECTLY INSTALLED!

If you want a PRIMER WARNING SYSTEM, InLineFabrication.com sells the Dillon Painted RED.

I use a Magic Marker marked rod myself.

I cut a Clear SHEET PROTECTOR to fit inside of my powder measure tube to protect from CHEMICAL DISCOLORATION.

InlineFabrication also sells ULTRAMOUNTS of different heights 9 5/8"-6" or 4"

if you would want to raise the working height of your press.

Did you PLACE SOME (very little) POWDERED GRAPHITE in the powder measure and cycle through a few times?

This LUBRICATES the Rotor and Stuff.

DID YOU REPLACE THE FLAT WASHER WITH A LOCK WASHER ON THE SHELL PLATE?

Does your Stroke on the powder measure HIT THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE SLOT?

One insures LOADING THE ROTOR, the other EMPTYING THE CHARGE, for consistency.

IF IT IS NOT HITTING BOTH ENDS OF THE SLOT, IT IS NOT CORRECTLY ADJUSTED.

Did you De-BURR everything, EJECT NUB under the Shellplate, edges of Primer Slide? Graphite Lube?

Investing your time and not being in a great hurry will reward your efforts immensely.

Videos watched. Thanks again. Rem oil dry lube was used. Lock washer not in yet as I haven't been by the hardware store. Everything was deburred with 600 and 800 grip paper. The powder charger adjusted correctly and was very very consistent.

But you are correct, I didn't force the spring in the groove. I'll go back and do that tonight and report back. I missed that in the video and instructions apparently. I thought it just had to ride ON the groove not IN the groove.

I'll check out the other items at the website you gave.

Thanks again!

[Moonman]

osteodoc08,

The spring RIDES IN THE GROOVE in the area of EJECT and Station 1.
The spring is below shellplate in that area so,

IF YOU HAVE A CASEFEEDER, THE BRASS CAN CLEAR THE TRANSITION AREA TO LOAD.

If you treat the springs gently they last a long time.

Some folks manhandle then and end up with KINKS AND BREAKS.

Also if you ever FEEL RESISTANCE when operating the press STOP IMMEDIATELY.

Something is out of adjustment and NEEDS LOOKED AT. (dirt in Primer Slide for one, a Pawl for another)

Newer Hornady's have the REVISED PRIMER PUNCHES (No UNDERCUT in the STEMS where TRASH accumulates.)

Call Hornady if your PRIMER PUNCH STEMS are not solid diameter bodies, they're replacing the older UNDERCUT ONES.

Canned Air is your friend, I mostly Deprime on a single stage to keep the dirt away.

[osteodoc08]

osteodoc08,

The spring RIDES IN THE GROOVE in the area of EJECT and Station 1.
The spring is below shellplate in that area so,


Call Hornady if your PRIMER PUNCH STEMS are not solid diameter bodies, they're replacing the older UNDERCUT ONES.

Canned Air is your friend, I mostly Deprime on a single stage to keep the dirt away.

Yeah, I definitely didnt put it on correctly. I'll be sure to press it into the groove tonight when I get home and recheck it. Looking at the picture on the online manual, I can see exactly where it needs to go down and pressed into.

Like I said previously, the press worked fine other than the ez ject (which is my fault). Just a few odds and ends I wish they would include. I guess by omitting those, they are able to get the price point down.

The primer punches were solid metal on mine. It popped up through the primer carrier and into the case. The movement of the Hornady design is superior to the 550 spring design in my opinion.

I use compressed air and dry lube to cut down on stick messes. Dad always used RIG on EVERYTHING that moved on his 550. I've cleaned up that nasty 550 more times than I care to think about.

[Moonman]

osteodoc08,

You're headed in the right direction now!

Good Loading my man.

[osteodoc08]

osteodoc08,

You're headed in the right direction now!

Good Loading my man.

I have to for sure. I have a friend of the family coming up to my house Saturday for an epic long range shoot. I really cant wait to stretch my 41 out to 200-500 yards at some steel targets he has. Should be tons of fun. I just have a bunch of reloading to get finished before he gets here Saturday. Gotta have time for family and the youngins too.

[Chakta]

I have had a Hornady LOCK N LOAD PRESS for about 2 years now and once I got the bugs out, seems to be working A-OK now. I admit it was a chore in trying to set it up, just making room down stairs was a mess. However, with the wife's help we managed and all is good these days. We have the auto bullet feeder and case feeder too! I can load 800 rounds an hour and that is fast enough, most of the time I am down in the 650 per hour bracket but it sure beats my old rock chucker. If something goes wrong, I can remedy it in 10 minutes or less, not so with a Dillion 650 press.

[BD]

I just traded in my old Pro-Jector for a LNL. The LNL came last week and I set it up last weekend and loaded a couple hundred rounds of .38 sp. I will say that the new plate advance mechanism and the primer feed are definitely a better design. However, the separate primer pick up tube and primer feed tube arrangement with the little plastic alignment sleeve is a definite step backward. The brass single primer pickup/feed tube on the old Pro-Jector is easily four times faster, and much less likely to spill primers. I have to wonder why they felt the need to go to that clumsy new arrangement?

[osteodoc08]

A 2 second fix with the case retention spring and she was chugging along all evening. I really like this design and how smooth it is. Just need to add the nice touches.

I upgrade its grade to an A-.

[bbqncigars]

The only things that will slow you down are running out of primers and refilling the primer tubes. The latter one can be ameliorated with dedicated large and small tube loaders. I'm glad that I made mine before Lee stopped selling the Autoprime primer trays. Loading individual primers is a PITA.

[gefiltephish]

^^ Vibra-Prime. I have a bunch of spare Dillon tubes that I removed the plastic ends from and made sure a pin hole is drilled in each end. Load up as many as you need at the beginning of each session.

One note with the vibra-prime. I've found that it does not work well if you tip it so that all the primers are bunched up in the corner where the exit hole is. Instead, tip the unit to the right but level, so that the primers will trickle toward the exit hole. Easily regulate the flow in a smooth flowing stream by tipping toward the hole ever so slightly. This works flawlessly for me. I haven't had a primer tip or stick in the hole since adopting this technique. A picture is worth a thousand works, I suppose I should make a video but all I have is a cell phone.

[osteodoc08]

Got all my loading done. Had one snafu. I had marked the primer rod to know when it was gonna be empty. I had 50 primers in it, but put it in up side down. In haste, I went to pull it out to flip it around but pulled it out at an angle and dislodged the large primer tube enough to where the primers scrambled at the bottom. I the had to unhook everything to clear the primers and put it back together. I lost 7 primers. I wish there was a screw down cap like Dillon and not a flimsy plastic cap with fingers on it.

[Moonman]

osteodoc08,

Did you locate the 7 lost primers? Dangerous surprises can occur if not!

InlineFabrication makes a RED PAINTED Dillon Primer Alarm.

If just using a MARKED ROD, sometimes a 9MM or 45ACP case on top as a weight helps.

The INSIDE primer tube ONLY GOES IN ONE DIRECTION. (down end has a small diameter turned on it.)

Good Loading!!!!:)

[osteodoc08]

osteodoc08,

Did you locate the 7 lost primers? Dangerous surprises can occur if not!

InlineFabrication makes a RED PAINTED Dillon Primer Alarm.

If just using a MARKED ROD, sometimes a 9MM or 45ACP case on top as a weight helps.

The INSIDE primer tube ONLY GOES IN ONE DIRECTION. (down end has a small diameter turned on it.)

Good Loading!!!!:)

Eh, I'll find them eventually one way or another. [smilie=1: