Stuck case in the chambe of AR 10

[fastfire]

I am starting to size a bunch of LC 308 cases. I sized the first one then chambered it.
The case is stuck in the chamber, I have tried taping a brass rod from the muzzle end while pressing the charging handle relese. was able to move the bolt back about 3/8".
Amy ideas how to unstuck the case?

[Smoke4320]

Spray Chamber and locking lug area with WD40 liberally .. stand gun in corner muzzle down (drip tray underneath..wait about 6 to 8 hours for WD40 to work around brass then repeat tapping brass rod and pulling charging handle
should work fine

[GT27]

Look up "Mortaring the AR" on UTube!

[Love Life]

What was said above.

Ensure you use a one piece rod that is as close to bore diameter as possible. Wrap a wrap of tape around the rod every 5 inches or so, and wrap more tap where the rod is at the crown.

Allow to soak, then go beat the bejesus out of it.

We usually just stuck the buttstock on the ground and stomped the charging handle, and then made lame excuses to the armorer...

[fastfire]

I'll do as instructed! Thanks

[uncle joe]

and use small base dies to reload foreign brass for the first time for an automatic. you won't stick any more rounds.

[KYShooter73]

This may be the same as "mortaring", never heard it called that..... If collapsible, collapse the buttstock all the way. Wrap your right hand around the fore end, push down on the charging handle with your left thumb. Keeping your face away from the muzzle, slam the buttstock on a hard surface, concrete, etc, while keeping force on the charging handle release. It may take a couple of smacks, but always works for me unless the brass is damaged.

[country gent]

Using the rifles wieght as a slide hammer / kenetic hammer will work but you can bend the charging handle also. If it is stuck kroil mixed 50/50 with shooter choice and allowed to soak a few days will help to lossen it. A few drops ( 6-10) down the muzzle every day and allowed to work. Ther kroil oil is a penetrant lubricant and the shooters choive has a copper remover for jacket fouling. Ive used this in stuck cases in dies several times with good results. You may have to do some "tapping" still, but this soak will help to loosen it. Clean and dry thoufgholy after wards.

[fastfire]

I got it unstuck! I first tried (mortaring) but didn't work for this situation.
Sprayed WD40 muzzel down after 6+ hours with taped brass rod tapped while holding the charging handle. From now on I will not let the bolt slam shut to see if the case will chamber, Lesson lernt.
This was once fired LC brass, I was trying not to push the shoulder back more than .003-.005.
If I screwed down the die to the shell holder it pushed the shoulder .010-.012.



Spray Chamber and locking lug area with WD40 liberally .. stand gun in corner muzzle down (drip tray underneath..wait about 6 to 8 hours for WD40 to work around brass then repeat tapping brass rod and pulling charging handle
should work fine

[Love Life]

Correct in that adjusting dies per the included instructions, you are over sizing your brass.

99% of LC brass is fired in machine gun chambers, and they can be a bit fat. When I reload LC brass for an auto loader I always use a small base die. Always. Some autos will work just fine with standard FL sized brass, but I'm sizing it anyway so might as well use a SB die. Get you a shoulder bump gauge and that'll give you solid measurements for shoulder bump.

[Mk42gunner]

What was said above.

Ensure you use a one piece rod that is as close to bore diameter as possible. Wrap a wrap of tape around the rod every 5 inches or so, and wrap more tap where the rod is at the crown.

Allow to soak, then go beat the bejesus out of it.

We usually just stuck the buttstock on the ground and stomped the charging handle, and then made lame excuses to the armorer...

If you really want to hear lame excuses, try running the armory in a SeaBee battalion.

"I never stuck a q-tip in the gas tube..."

"I thought it was okay to use the big patch down the barrel..."

"I thought it was okay try to turn in the rifle in the window muzzle first..."

"I thought it was empty..."

Just a short sampling of lame excuses I have heard.

Robert

[Love Life]

We got quite creative.

The fact that our weapons still allow you to qualify as expert at 500 yds has always baffled me. The round count on those guns has to be ridiculous. Especially the SAW and the crew served machine guns.

[popper]

AR repair tool - black rubber hammer. Hold down on the catch & hit the other side with the hammer. GET a case gauge! Fire ing pin is free float. Got a slam fire I was not expecting the other day. Keep the muzzle pointed down range when releasing the bolt. Annealing will make pushing the shoulder back a lot easier.

[warboar_21]

I had some difficulty with LC brass in my AR-10 as well. I stuck the upper in the freezer over night and then I could lightly tap out the stuck brass in the morning. Works with stuck brass in a resizing die as well.

[3leggedturtle]

I bought 1M 7.62 brass back in the 80's, think i paid $35 shipped. I used a 444 Marlin die to resize the base down, also had to shave a bit off the shellholder to get them to chamber in a Savage 110 and Rem 742.

[HeavyMetal]

If you only have the FL die don't try this, but if you bought the Lee die set that has both the collet neck size die and the FL you can see if this works for you.

I have been doing this for all my bottle neck rifle case by the way.

Lee FL dies have a bleed hole at the shoulder to allow air out to keep from putting "dents" in the case when they are sized.

I tapped a piece of aluminum for 7/8-14 mark the bleed hole with a felt pen screw the die in and tighten the jam nut and then cut the top part of the die off in a chop saw with a carborundum disk on it.

This leave me with a steel FL die that won't bump the shoulder back, because it can't! Deburr the cut off area and then you can screw the die all the way down to the shell holder for full base sizing.

Now this does shorten the die and I have to thread them in from the bottom of the press rather than the top but it works great.

All range pick up brass goes through this modified FL die as part of my case conditioning process.

I do this for 308 222 223 qnd 30-30. Actually started doing this for my 30-30 Contender barrel as I was having streching issues with case necks, and older RCBS die set, switching to the Lee die set and cutting the FL die worked out and case's now live a long time.

After the case's are run through the modified FL die they get "sent up" in the Collet neck sizing die. Not fast but man that Contender barrel can really shoot this stuff.

Not knowing how much you case's have "grown", I have dealt with M-60 fired 308's, you may still need the SB sizer but I haven't needed to.