First 44 magnum, I shot apart a ruger

[silverado]

So yesterday while testing cast gc loads in my gp100, I was also trying a new to me super blackhawk. Shot 20 something rounds of handloads ranging from tite group 44 specials to 240 grain XT over some mp300. Well, towards the end I noticed it would not cock properly. I found that the base pin retainer had popped off. Ordered new parts to fix it already. Today I found the ejector housing and grip frame were also loose. Would I be correct in putting some blue loctite on all of those previously loose screws, including the base pin retainer? Never had a problem like this but my only other sa gun is a single six.

[tacklebury]

I've shot loads in my .45 Colt Blackhawk that would disintegrate a Colt single action army and never had issues with my Blackhawk. I'm thinking you need to get a call into Ruger service right away. One issue you have is using reloads it sounds like. I always run a box or two of factory ammo through prior to using my loads. Then I can state any damage was with factory ammo... Sorry you're having issues. 8(

[DougGuy]

Take the grip frame off and clean the grip and the frame, then re assemble it. I never used loctite on my Rugers and they don't shoot loose. I have shot some hellified loads through all of them. Take that back, I did red loctite the ejector housing screw on one of them..

[silverado]

Already took off the grip. Saw some discoloration (rust? On an ss gun?) Sprayed some rem oil, wiped it clean. I had some sellior and bellot factory ammo, shot maybe 12 rounds and recoil was close to my reloads.

[silverado]

Red loctite is scary stuff.... I used it before I knew any better but have not had to regret it yet

[silverado]

All my reloads were under published maximums, so I guess it's just a case of an old gun, serial number puts it at around 1997 manufacture

[PWS]

I just figured checking for loose screws was routine maintenance on SAs, especially hard kickers or those that see a lot of use. I wouldn't hesitate to use a bit of blue Loctite to keep the screws tight.

[300savage]

i have used locktite on many a blackhawk

[mpbarry1]

... so I guess it's just a case of an old gun, serial number puts it at around 1997 manufacture

If thats an old gun, im going to have to quit shooting my ancient ones... :)

[yotatrd4x4]

I did also use blue locktite on my blackhawk and vaquero in 45colt. I do it as insurance that I won't lose a screw while riding a wheeler into nowhere Alaska and because I had the ejector housing screw come loose on my stainless blackhawk. Also my old blackhawk and my new stainless super have that dirty looking rusty substance and I think it was assembly oil that dried out and once I pulled it apart it cleaned off with mild solvents but I do like to use blue locktite just incase plus it comes out easily enough to not mar up the screws too.

[Duckiller]

Silverado you may want to have a serious discussion with Ruger Customer Service. A 1997 Super Blackhawk is not an old gun. It may have been abused before you got it. I would see if Ruger is willing to check it out or can recomend a smith to check it out. Getting it checked out now will let you know exactly what sort of condition it is in. A little blue loctite will cure loose threads.

[Tatume]

+1 on the blue Loctite. I use it or fingernail polish on my grip frame screws. The base pin is another matter. It should be clean and well oiled. You may need a new one. At the same time you should install an increased-power spring in the retainer. A Belt Mountain pin with a retaining screw is a good alternative too.

[dubber123]

I'd clean with a good solvent and Loctite all the screws. Shooting them when loose is a good way to strip out the holes. I had to re-tighten the grip frame screws on my .475 after every range trip until I Loctited them. I haven't had to touch them since.

[junkpile]

Did you clean it and check all the screws before you took it to the range after buying it? maybe the previous owner tried cleaning it up before selling it, and didn't get the screws tightened up.

1997 is not an old gun. It has barely even begun to live. Just tighten things back up and see how it goes. Any problems besides loose screws?

Stainless guns will rust. They aren't as impervious as many would have us believe. Much more resistant, but still can't be completely neglected.

[300savage]

i dont think a couple hundred years either way is going to make much difference to the longevity of a blackhawk.

[jonp]

+1 Blue Loctite NOT Red

[atr]

++1 for Blue Locitie...
avoid the Red

[44man]

Red is all I use, no harder to remove screws. I have had red fail to hold screws too. I tighten the screw and put a little torque on the screw driver handle and tap it with a small hammer.
To remove red, blue or even epoxied screws, take a copper or brass rod the size of the screw head, heat it red hot and hold it on the screw head a short time, the glue will fail.
Loose screws will shear. I sheared 3 grip frame screws with one shot and they had red on them. Now I use the little hammer.

[Mumblypeg]

Already took off the grip. Saw some discoloration (rust? On an ss gun?) Sprayed some rem oil, wiped it clean. I had some sellior and bellot factory ammo, shot maybe 12 rounds and recoil was close to my reloads.

SS is not rust proof.... just highly rust resistant. Checking for loose screws should be normal. Use Loctite at your own risk.... just makes it tougher if you want the screws to come out.

[contender1]

The base pin retainer and the ERH screws on Ruger SA's have been known to occasionally come loose. Recoil causes vibration & stuff happens when things vibrate. You 1997 is not old when you consider that the Super Blackhawk came out in 1959.
I own several of them old Rugers, & on the OCCASIONAL one, I have screws that prefer to walk out. On those, I have used blue Loctite. On others, no issues.
Just like any other tooling, cutters wear. Occasionally a tap is new, and a screw will not bite as deeply. Plus, screws are usually softer steel than the barrels, so,,, a bit of slack in the tolerances happens.

Here is another idea you can use if you are not comfortable with Loctite.

Get some fishing line, about 6-8 lb test.
Cut you off about 3-6 inches. Insert one end into the screw hole.
Hold it there while screwing in the ERH screw. (It's easy to do if you stick the line in from the open end of the ERH.)
The nylon acts as a space filler w/o any damage to anything. Once installed, cut off the tail, & use a lighter to remove the last tiny piece hanging out.
Done.

[jakec]

i dont think a couple hundred years either way is going to make much difference to the longevity of a blackhawk.

thats what i was thinking. ive got two that are both older than me. ones a 1973 and ones a 1974. the only problem ive had is the base pin latch coming apart if i forget to check it every few shoots. love those guns.

[44man]

Good idea. Remember the old Ruger screws with a nylon plug? They did not work once the screws were removed.
There is little reason to ever take a Ruger apart except for a trigger job anyway.

[tek4260]

"setting the screw" with a rap from a small hammer is all that is needed. No loctite on mine and no loose screws...... yet........ :)

[Tatume]

What does "ERH" stand for?

[Hickok]

I just figured checking for loose screws was routine maintenance on SAs, especially hard kickers or those that see a lot of use. I wouldn't hesitate to use a bit of blue Loctite to keep the screws tight.Pws I have to agree with you. Just part of the routine care and mantainance of a revolver. I regularly check mine and keep'em tight. Once in a while I find a screw that needs a little snugging up. Just a good habit to practice.:)

[junkpile]

What does "ERH" stand for?

ejector rod housing

[375supermag]

What does "ERH" stand for?

I am pretty sure he is referring to the "Ejector Rod Housing"...

[contender1]

Yep, Ejector Rod Housing.

[Lloyd Smale]

Id dont use loctite because i want it to come apart to clean easily. What i do is just carry a screw driver and insure everything is tight when i start, recheck about every 50 rounds and again when im done. Since ive got into that routine ive yet to loose another ejector rod housing.

[Finster101]

Buy a cheap soldering iron. The pencil type, heat the loctited screws with that and they will come right out.

[Roosters]

Buy a cheap soldering iron. The pencil type, heat the loctited screws with that and they will come right out.

Good tip. That might be worth a try on some other things as well.

[44man]

Just the right amount of heat will ruin glue without harming the screws.
I used to sheet RC airplane wings with white or yellow wood glue. Paint both sides with glue and let it dry. Then just iron the sheeting on the wings. some of the few glues that will soften and get hard again.
Loc-Tite will not re harden and neither will epoxy, once ruined, it has turned to junk.
I used to get a lot of guns to work on and the worst were those that guys glued in the scope ring screws. Only heat kept screws from snapping.

[osteodoc08]

I think the point has been made that:

1. 1997 is no where close to being old, especially a SBH.
2. Blue loctite over red (for most). It is possible that the previous owner cleaned it and never tightened them up. Clean and use a VERY SMALL DAB of blue loctite on the screws.
3. The base pin has been known to pop out in a few blackhawks. If it bothers you, get a lockable aftermarket one. The Belt Mountain ones seem to be popular. (http://beltmountain.com/)

[lksmith]

Buy a cheap soldering iron. The pencil type, heat the loctited screws with that and they will come right out.

Off topic I know but what works on green loctite? I tried that and a pencil torch on the scope mount rings on a rifle with no luck?

[44man]

Off topic I know but what works on green loctite? I tried that and a pencil torch on the scope mount rings on a rifle with no luck?
Do not heat the rings. Heat only the screw and let cool. You need to get away from heat expansion, just ruin the glue. It is different then all else that needs heat.

[ClemY]

It sounds like what came apart is the cylinder latch assembly. What I do on my SBH and NMBH is replace the cylinder latch spring with a Wolff spring. The Wolff spring is a bit stiffer and it can prevent the cylinder latch from bouncing out of position and releasing the cylinder base pin. I also replace my cylinder base pins with Belt Mountain pins. They are just a bit larger in diameter and tend to tighten things a bit. So far they work for me, but there is no guarantee.

[silverado]

I ordered standard parts off of midwayusa and used blue loctite. I plan on testing it out with 240 grains water cooled over some h110 next weekend. I also loctited all the other preciously loose screws, thanks for the advice everyone

[lksmith]

Do not heat the rings. Heat only the screw and let cool. You need to get away from heat expansion, just ruin the glue. It is different then all else that needs heat.
Had the iron on the screws for 10 mins let it cool, no luck. then held the pencil torch on the screw head for 5 mins and used upside down compressed air to "shock" it loose still no luck.

[44man]

Had the iron on the screws for 10 mins let it cool, no luck. then held the pencil torch on the screw head for 5 mins and used upside down compressed air to "shock" it loose still no luck.
Yeah, seen it too and there is a point where a drill is the only answer.
Remember Loc-Tite makes all kinds of stuff and some is for high temperatures, green is one of them and they make some that will lock high speed bearings on worn shafts. I have RC/640 for that. Takes a lathe to remove it.
Stick with blue or red. I never used green on a gun, never will. I do not know how much heat, if any, can break green loose.
I just had a job yesterday fixing a tiny knob for an airplane. The knob costs $60. The set screw was frozen and is only a 2-56 thread. Someone glued it in. Well, you know what an Allen wrench will do!
I had to drill it out and tap what was left to remove the metal from the threads. New set screw and all was good. I dropped the tiny screw too many times. Needed my magnifying head piece.
I feel your pain!

[enfieldphile]

+ 1 on the increase-power base pin retaining spring!

The bottom of the spring retaining screw
can also be stoned (while screw is revolved on a drill press) for a better fit in its seat.

I had no issues w/ the grip frame screws coming loose in a used, 35 y/o SBH, but the base pin would migrate forward. I put in the extra-power spring and did the mod to the screw. Fixed it right up! :)

[RogerDat]

There is also purple Loc-Tite intended for smaller screws, probably have to order online as it is seldom sold in auto and hardware stores. The torque range required to remove purple is lower than blue. Red is supposed to be heat resistant, blue is not so heat will release blue better than red. But purple is the one designed for screws up to 1/4 inch. http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-Thread/dp/B0002KKTT0