You guys might know ....Savage 219 question

[Jack Stanley]

What is the firing pin protrusion for a Savage 219 action ? I tried firing mine today it will just barely dent the pimer . It doesn't "look" broken and it protrudes a hundred thousanths .

Thanks guys , Jack

[dubber123]

I can't help with the protrusion question, but as I recall, mine had the same issue with light strikes. The hammer body contacted a part of the frame too early in my sample. I welded up the "nose" portion of the hammer to allow better contact with the pin. I previously had light strikes and misfires, which all disappeared after the mod. If you have been into the action, you may see what I mean. It's something to check for. Good luck.

[geargnasher]

.060" on my Utica.

Gear

[Jack Stanley]

This one is a Utica as well so I'm thinking it really should be long enough . There is a small bar that slides inside the striker bar , What is the function of that ?

I'm thinking I may need to find a gunsmith for this .

Jack

[dubber123]

I'd check for the problem I outlined above. The hammer on mine could just lightly bump the pin before it was blocked. Lengthening the nose fixed it.

[leftiye]

Protrudes plenty. Ain't denting primers. Either not enough speed/mass in hammer or sumpthin's stopping/ slowing firing pin or hammer that shouldn't be. Lotsa guns have stuff in their designs that was put there by a Liewyer or other idiot. Often you can remove the stupid part or make a part sans the dumbness.

[Jack Stanley]

dubber , I think this rifle has a striker with a coil spring wrapped around it . At least I don't see anything that would put me to mind of a hammer .

Jack

[geargnasher]

I can't help with the protrusion question, but as I recall, mine had the same issue with light strikes. The hammer body contacted a part of the frame too early in my sample. I welded up the "nose" portion of the hammer to allow better contact with the pin. I previously had light strikes and misfires, which all disappeared after the mod. If you have been into the action, you may see what I mean. It's something to check for. Good luck.

Yours may have been the later design with an actual hammer. I think the pre-war models from Utica have a striker and spring retained directly by the sear.

I had to fire mine to check protrusion, but the breech lock cocks the striker before it opens the action, so firing against a fire case did no good. I had to dry-fire it with the barrel off and place the breech face against a block of birch to deaden the blow. The striker hit with authority and buried in the wood. Not doing that again!

I'd check the spring. Once protruded, I had difficulty pushing the pin back by hand.

Gear

[dubber123]

It's an internal hammer, not what I would call a striker, as it swings in an arc, (like a hammer) rather than inline like a striker. As I said, and I am going off memory from a few years back, the hammer had a nose that contacted the pin, but it also had a stop built into the frame that it hit just about the same time. I lengthened the nose a bit by welding, and all issues went away.

[geargnasher]

It's an internal hammer, not what I would call a striker, as it swings in an arc, (like a hammer) rather than inline like a striker. As I said, and I am going off memory from a few years back, the hammer had a nose that contacted the pin, but it also had a stop built into the frame that it hit just about the same time. I lengthened the nose a bit by welding, and all issues went away.

I should have said "internal hammer". Yours is the later design if it has one of those. The Utica-made ones have an in-line striker inside a heavy coil spring. The striker is held and released directly by the sear and it travels straight forward to hit the floating firing pin. Like shooting pool instead of croquet.

Gear

[dubber123]

Ok, I believe I have seen some with an actual external hammer, and I thought you were referencing one of those. If Jacks is a striker model, I am of no help to him, sorry. :) Gear, mine looks exactly like yours, minus your recoil pad.

[EDG]

Check your design against the section views.
You should be able to tell what might be problem.

97125

[Jack Stanley]

Thanks EDG , those drawings are a big help . Mine is like the top one , at least it is the closest . Mine has the cutout for what I think is a spring ( #34 ) though the spring is not there . This action does look like someone has been playing around in it , at least from the looks of the pins . The part ( #11 ) does not have the little curl downward to attach to part 34 . Perhaps was cut off long ago but it has no hole at the back of it anyway .

The trigger guard is different on this one , both attaching screws are on the outside of the action .

I cannot see the front of the striker from any position I try to look , so I don't know if there is any debris blocking or slowing it's travel . I did hose it out good with a cleaner after a couple days soaking , then followed that up with compressed air . It appears to move freely .

Gear what I found I could do to get the firing pin to show was hold the break open lever all the way to the right and maintain pressure on it . Then squeeze the trigger and slowly move the lever back left untill spring pressure stops . To retract the striker , just move the lever to the right and the striker comes back and the sear will hold it . That will save you from beating up your birch trees ;-)

Jack

[geargnasher]

Splendid idea, Jack, thank you!

Gear

[uscra112]

The originals can get enough gunk in the channel for the striker to slow it down and give you light strikes. If it's an old gun that hasn't been used for years and years, dismount the wood and give it a thorough dousing with Varsol or Brakleen.

OOoops, I see you already did that.

Weak spring is the next suspect.

I hate taking mine apart, because that means I'll have to put it together again. Have a large reservoir of patience handy before you start.

[EDG]

It appears there is a take down slave pin hole in the striker for the top version. It should be easy to disassemble if you take about 15 mins to plan what you are going to do.

[geargnasher]

It appears there is a take down slave pin hole in the striker for the top version. It should be easy to disassemble if you take about 15 mins to plan what you are going to do.

I believe you might just be right, I'll have to check that out. One could force the sear back past the cocking notch with the break-open lever, install the pin (90-degree Allen wrench?), hold the trigger, and let the pressure off of the lever. Then the striker and guide plate could be removed as an assembly.

Gear

[Jack Stanley]

Guys I just checked the Numrich parts catalog ( page 835 of catalog #31 ) The main spring is part number 28 and it calls for two springs . While my rifle is still in one piece , can any of you tell me if yours has two mainsprings . I really can't see if mine has one or two . Tomorrow while I'm in town I'll stop and chat with the gun shops resident gunsmith and see if he has ever worked on a 219 .
Edited to add , the fella at the store is a parts changer and doesn't want to wade into a rifle made before he was . Fortunately , there was a fella there that dates me by a few years and he's somewhat familiar with the 219 . I made a call to Numrich and got a new striker and mainspring on the way ... along with a new catalog .


Thanks , Jack