Steel Molds vs. Aluminum

[38 Super Auto]

I have casted for a number of years and I've always used Lee 6-cav molds. I think Lee aluminum molds have some benefits, but some downside as well. I have seen some decent values on used steel molds recently.

So my question to to CB forum is:

1) What do you like about your Lyman, RCBS, H/G molds et al?

2) What about your steel molds do you not like?

Thanks :coffee:

[Ghugly]

At the end of the casting session, when I'm inspecting for rejects, I end up with more good boolits using steel. That is the bottom line. I'm sure it's mostly my fault as I find myself constantly overheating the aluminum moulds and cooling them on damp cloths. I tend to get the steel moulds hot too, just much less so.

[pa_guns]

Hi

Steel takes longer to heat up, but holds the heat better. Aluminum does not rust when you leave them out on the bench in the rain :oops::oops:

Bob

[NVcurmudgeon]

Steel is my favorite because it is a lot less fussy to cast with, leading to a higher percetage of good boolits. Aluminum can make good boolits, too, but temperature needs to be higher. Then there is durability, though I haven't yet destroyed one aluminum mould, most of my aluminum moulds are used sparingly. For large scale casting give me iron/steel every time.

[klw]

Over the years I've used just under 300 set of iron moulds and just over 100 of aluminum. I clearly prefer iron over aluminum.

But I think the big difference isn't so much what the block is made from as it is who made it. The better moulds are, in my opinion, made by Ballisti-Cast (formerly H&G), Hoch, RCBS and SAECO.

The best of the aluminum moulds, I think, are NEI's. But I have no experience with the current owner.

[sagamore-one]

I have and use 21 moulds. 19 are H&G in 6,8,or 10 cavity. The other two are Lee 6 bangers. With the H&G 's I can save good boolits the first cast. The reject pile is countable on one hand. With aluminum..... well, I needed a certain boolit and the Lee was available. I run my temp almost at max and pour fast using two big H&G's. While one is setting up- I fill the other. Like a match made in Heaven. No overheating problems yet. But I've only been doing this for 30 plus years.
Make Mine Iron !!!!!

And when I replaced a 4 banger H&G 503 with a larger mould I had no trouble selling it on sleaze bait .
When was the last time you saw a used aluminum mould go for $400 ??

[Char-Gar]

I have no counted in some time, but I probably have 200 molds. Some are iron, some are brass and some are aluminum. I really don't know the porportion. When I buy a mold, it is because of the bullet design and not the mold material. All of the material will make a good mold.

I do need to say that the aluminum used in Lee molds is very much inferior to that used by NEI, Mountain Molds and others that use that material. Do not judge all aluminum molds by Lee standards.

[Red River Rick]

I have to agree with Charger in respect to Lee moulds. Their mould blocks are aluminum extrusions and probably come in long lengths, cut to appropriate size as needed. I doubt that the aluminum used is nothing better than 6061.

Where as NEI, Mountain Molds and the rest, will use a much better quality aluminum, 2024 or 7075.

The problem, I see, with using aluminum for mould blocks is the thermal expansion. Problems always arise with alignment pins coming loose and screws seizing in threaded holes. Unless the alignment pins are screwed in, they seem to come loose more so in aluminum rather than iron blocks.

Aluminum does have great advantages though, don't get me wrong. Nice finishes are easily obtainable and makes for easier machining. Bullets tend not to stick in aluminum cavities as bad as in iron blocks.

I use Durabar 65-45-12 for all my blocks because I have a readily available source.

I have a number of iron moulds and find that once they have reached that magic temp, bullets drop out well formed and without problems.

Just my 2 cents.

RRR

[AZ-Stew]

While I agree with most of the posts here regarding aluminum versus iron mould blocks, there is a single drawback that hasn't been mentioned:

The iron moulds are heavy.

If you have a sedentary job (office) and you don't get a lot of exercise lifting 25 - 50 pound items on a regular basis to keep your arms in shape, the first time you go into a marathon casting session, you'll surely end up with sore arms and hands the next day, just from the effort of holding the mould. You'll also have difficulty holding one of the big moulds up to the pot by the end of the day. It takes a lot of hand and arm strength to cast for more than an hour or so with one of the 4 - 10 cavity moulds.

The largest iron mould I have is a Saeco 4-banger (411) that casts a .41 caliber Keith-style SWC. I've made myself sore with that one on several occasions, but it sure turns out nice bullets.

Other than the weight, iron is an excellent mould material.

Regards,

Stew

[Ricochet]

Yep, I even find 6-hole Lees tiring to the hands after casting for a while. I have problems with fingers going numb from carpal tunnel syndrome, and heavier moulds exacerbate that, also having to squeeze the handles tightly (necessary with Lee 6-holers if you don't want finned, oversized boolits.)

Fact is, though they're often maligned here, I'm quite happy with the few 2-hole Lees I've gotten recently. They're light, easy to use, and while they don't put out the huge numbers of the 6-holers, I get very few rejects with them.

A major drawback of iron moulds is that they rust very easily if not properly cared for, and require oiling before putting away, then have to be cleaned and prepped again for every casting session. Aluminum moulds are less work in that regard.

[hammerhead357]

My preference is for iron even though I have some aluminum moulds and a couple of brass moulds.
As far as the iron moulds being more tiring, I very seldom lift a mould except from the preheater to the position under the spout. I use heat sinks under the pot and rest the mould on them. I also cast as fast as the moulds will allow and use preheating pots and ingot feeders. I generally use two moulds at once....Wes

[crowbeaner]

I have 30 some moulds myself. I prefer the iron or steel ones myself as has been stated above, once they get up to temp I get few rejects. Yes, they are heavy and rust at the slightest hint of moisture. My wrist pains me after an extended session with a 4 cavity Lyman or Saeco but no pain, no gain. With a 300 gr. 4 cavity Saeco I can empty the Mag 20 fairly quickly. If I have rifle bullets to make I prefer a single cavity steel mould. The exceptions are the RCBS moulds as they are all 2 cavity. My Lee moulds are usually 2 cavity as I have had some of the 6 cavity ones warp in the middle causing out of round bullets. Nothing seems to help keep them from warping. I wish both RCBS and Lee would design a 4 cavity. I think if Lee made a 4 holer the warpage would not be a problem if the block is sturdy enough. I have yet to try NEI moulds, but from all I've heard they are excellent. Rapine moulds are expensive, but again have a very good rep. There are several mfgs. that put out great products; as always you get what you pay for. CB.

[Marshal Kane]

Ditto with what everyone else has said. I'm partial to Saeco moulds especially the 4 cavity ones which when brought up to casting temperature turn out very few rejects. True, an iron mould can get tiring to hold over a long casting session but that's just part of the hobby.

[cuzinbruce]

The RCBS molds I have had have all been excellent. Only thing I have noted is that the vent lines on the face of the block are a bit much. When they get real hot, you start getting whiskers. Have to turn the temp down. That and they don't make 4 or 6 cavity molds.
The Hensley & Gibbs molds I have are even better. Smoother cavities. Bullets mostly seem to jump out of them when opened. Downside is they are hard to find and can be pretty expensive.
Lyman's - well it just depends. Some are outstanding. Others I have had looked like the cherry was worn out when they made the mold. One I bought NEW had to go back. The cavities weren't lined up properly by the pins. Both halves had the same assembly number so they must not have been mounted right on the machine when they cut the cavities. Lyman did send a new mold no problem. Other than that, if they havent been totally abused or rusted out, I can make them work. When they are properly tuned up, they work fine and don't wear out.
I can't tell you about the others, haven't had any SAECO or customs. I sold all the Lee's I have come into, I couldn't stand the scoring on top, the cheap sprue cutters, the flash, the flimsy handles, etc.