Wrung out Russian Mosin Nagant 91/30 rifle yesterday

[Hang Fire]

Took the New (to me) 1939 (same age as I) Russian 91/30 Izhevsk rifle out yesterday and put 30 rounds of 1980 Russian 147 grain light ball milsurp through it. Action worked slick and flawlessly throughout the shoot with no binding (this can be a problem with some) whatsoever. Accuracy at 100 yards with the milsurp ammo and iron sights was outstanding for this old man, the .312” bore is like new shiny bright.


Best target, nine shots fired from rest off hood of my old Jimmy 4x4. Top two (not the black taped) were with a center of bullseye hold, the remaining seven were with 6 o’clock hold on bullseye, gotta love the 3 shots in one hole and the 3 shot touching cluster.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/P10100542.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/P10100542.jpg.html)

[30calflash]

I rang my Finnish 91-30 out yesterday and it shoots a foot+ high at 100 yards. Albanian light ball.
It was right over the top of the backer or clipping the top edge.

I guess it's time to get a piece of 3mm round stock and make a taller front sight. Or set it up as a low velocity cast shooter.

[Hang Fire]

For taller front sight to shoot lower, just strip some right diameter round black insulation off of wire, cut to length and slip down over front sight.

[Hang Fire]

Here is the rifle I used.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/P10100622.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/P10100622.jpg.html)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/P10100602.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/P10100602.jpg.html)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/P10100581.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/P10100581.jpg.html)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/P10100592.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/P10100592.jpg.html)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/P10100655.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/P10100655.jpg.html)

[I'll Make Mine]

I rang my Finnish 91-30 out yesterday and it shoots a foot+ high at 100 yards. Albanian light ball.
It was right over the top of the backer or clipping the top edge.

I guess it's time to get a piece of 3mm round stock and make a taller front sight. Or set it up as a low velocity cast shooter.

I've got a Smith Sights height-adjustable front sight on my 91/30 and I'm very happy with it -- I got the screw-adjustable narrow top black post, and a red fiber-optic post (adjusts by loosening the setscrew, moving it up or down, and tightening the screw). This is an original 91/30 sight, modified for adjustable posts, and the posts are sized to compensate for the fact that almost all of these rifles shoot high as set up by the arsenals. The cost of the sight was very reasonable, it took about ten minutes to install (drive the old sight out of the dovetail, and drive in the new one, with the supplied shims if needed for tightness), and the narrow top on the classic post covers less of the target than the original.

[30calflash]

Thanks for the info on the front sight. I'll probably go with the insulation first though. Just to try it.

Using it as a boolit rifle wouldn't bother me a bit either.

[I'll Make Mine]

Thanks for the info on the front sight. I'll probably go with the insulation first though. Just to try it.

Using it as a boolit rifle wouldn't bother me a bit either.

I haven't tried boolits in mine yet, but if the bore is in good shape, they ought to work. Slug your bore -- if it's a Finn-made rifle, it'll probably run .308 groove and you can use any common .30 mold, but if it's Russian or Chinese, it's likely to run anywhere from .311 to .315 groove (mine is .313) and you'll want to look for molds marked as ".303 British" or "7.62x39" -- or consider getting a 7.5 mm mold that drops around .300-.301 (bore diameter plus .001) and paper patch to get to your require .314-.316 final diameter. The other advantages of paper patch are that the paper polishes the bore with every shot, and you can (with the right powder) push a cast boolit to full jacketed velocity without leading.

[30calflash]

Yes, it's got a Tikka barrel IIRC. Trying to get the blue goop out altogether right now.

Hangfire, not trying to jack your thread. That's a nice looking 91-30 you have there. If I can ever get my pics posted I'll try to get mine in also. Been having trouble with photobucket.

[nicholst55]

That's darn good shooting with a Mosin Nagant and milsurp ammo! I'm slowly getting mine sorted out - a 1925 Tula ex-Dragoon. I just installed a slip-on recoil pad, which will make it more pleasant to shoot. Not that a Mosin has all that terrible a recoil - it's just that narrow buttplate and light clothing being the order of the day here in SW Arizona - pretty much year-round.

I think I'm going to try and fabricate my own adjustable front sight, based on the Smith design. I remember seeing a 'how-to' on the 'net several years back, but I can't seem to find it now. Maybe I copied it to my hard drive somewhere...

Eventually I'll probably put a scope and bent bolt handle on mine, since my eyes were never great and are getting worse...

[I'll Make Mine]

I think I'm going to try and fabricate my own adjustable front sight, based on the Smith design. I remember seeing a 'how-to' on the 'net several years back, but I can't seem to find it now. Maybe I copied it to my hard drive somewhere...

I put a butt pad on mine that replaces the original plate, held on with the two original screws. It's 100% reversible, and prevents breaking your collarbone if you get the rifle out of position (as I did, just one time, and wore a big bruise for 2-3 weeks).

Simple version of how to convert your existing sight (it won't be easily adjustable without removing the sight, but get it set right for surplus and you'll really only need to raise the rear if you shoot heavy bullets or slower loads): drive the sight off the dovetail, I've read the preference is to the shooter's right; use a thin punch to drive the sight post out through the bottom of the sight. Use the tools you have (drill and file or emery board, small lathe, etc.) to turn off the enlarged base, like a finish nail head, on the bottom end of the post. Reinsert post; if not tight in the original hole, consider replacing with a roll pin of matching diameter.

Smith drills the post hole oversize and threads it, using a profiled screw to replace the original post (or what looks like a roll pin with fiber optic rod inside; also sells a version with a brass core in the post), then drills and taps an intentionally off center hole for a pointed tip set screw (driven with what I think is a .050" hex key, which makes it a #4 or smaller screw) that bears at an angle to avoid damaging the threads on the post. I theoretically have the tools to do the same job Smith does, but for what he charges, I'm not going to try it.

Simple, reversible way to mount a scope without needing a bolt handle rework (i.e. keep the rifle so you can return to original condition -- that's my preference); get a solid pair of .22 rifle or even air rifle rings to fit 3/8" dovetail, drive out the two pins and gently tap the rear sight base forward off the dovetail, then mount the rings and mark the rear one, and notch or drill to match the pin holes in the base and drive in a 3.0 mm pin enough longer than original to hold the ring. Mount a pistol type Long Eye Relief scope in the rings and add a cheek pad if/as needed. Carry the original sight base and pins with you if you hunt with this, you can switch back in ten or fifteen minutes if the scope gets damaged.

[nicholst55]

I've read several accounts of .22 rings not staying tight on the rear sight dovetail, so I'll likely go with a permanent scope installation. I'm going to scout around the machine shop at work tomorrow and see what they've got for small round stock or allthread, and decide how I want to approach this front sight mod. I should probably just buy one from Smith, but I'm cheap, and there's not much satisfaction in buying one, when I can spend several hours making one!

[captain-03]

For taller front sight to shoot lower, just strip some right diameter round black insulation off of wire, cut to length and slip down over front sight.

THANKS!!! Will certainly do that!!!!!!!!!!

[Hang Fire]

I've read several accounts of .22 rings not staying tight on the rear sight dovetail, so I'll likely go with a permanent scope installation. I'm going to scout around the machine shop at work tomorrow and see what they've got for small round stock or allthread, and decide how I want to approach this front sight mod. I should probably just buy one from Smith, but I'm cheap, and there's not much satisfaction in buying one, when I can spend several hours making one!

See that shallow milled recess in rear sight dovetail?
http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/P1010316.JPG

See the dog set screw coming down through at rear of mount? Once dog set screw is tightened down into milled recess, that mount is going nowhere short of a total wreck.
http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/UTG-Tactical-Rail-Adaptor-22cal_MNT-PMTOWL_rail-adaptor_zm_1_.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/14534579027562C7F8.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/14534579027562C7F8.png.html)

http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/P1010656.JPG

Forgot to add this: If scope should fail while afield, pre-zeroed aperture sight goes right onto dovetail. With the eye piece removed it makes for a great ghost ring.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/TANSTAAFL-2/-11774794356D42776.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/TANSTAAFL-2/media/-11774794356D42776.png.html)

http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/P1010654.JPG

[Hang Fire]

I haven't tried boolits in mine yet, but if the bore is in good shape, they ought to work. Slug your bore -- if it's a Finn-made rifle, it'll probably run .308 groove and you can use any common .30 mold, but if it's Russian or Chinese, it's likely to run anywhere from .311 to .315 groove (mine is .313) and you'll want to look for molds marked as ".303 British" or "7.62x39" -- or consider getting a 7.5 mm mold that drops around .300-.301 (bore diameter plus .001) and paper patch to get to your require .314-.316 final diameter. The other advantages of paper patch are that the paper polishes the bore with every shot, and you can (with the right powder) push a cast boolit to full jacketed velocity without leading.

I have three M39 Finns, one 1942 Sako and two unissued like new 1968 No Names, the bores all slug .310".

[dragon]

I would be very happy if I can get groups like that from my new toy!

How much does the rubber butt pad seem to help guys? I bet my son will want one if they do much...

[petroid]

I'm getting ready to try powder coating some Lee 312-185 boolits to see how they work. I didn't have much luck with them conventionally lubed. Great results with the hornady .312 bullets. There is a 150SP, 174fmj, and 174RN. Grafs carries an exclusive hornady .312 150gr SST. Should be a great shooter

[leadman]

I used a set of 22 rings right on the dovetail with the NcStar 2 X 7 pistol scope. Works great and has not come loose but I don't shoot ball ammo. Good enough to get several different loads to moa or better. Best was .6" at 100 yards.
If a person is concerned they might come loose a set of Millett 22 rings would be the answer. Very stout.

Someone had recrowned the barrel on the MN I recently bought and had been messing with the action screws. I took the action out of the stock and the front receiver recess was cut on an angle on the bottom. I hogged some more wood out and epoxied it. Also relieved the barrel channel in the forearm and in the handguard. Really made a difference in how it shot and easy to do.
I put a couple of layers of metal duct tape under the trigger spring to lighten it some.

[I'll Make Mine]

I would be very happy if I can get groups like that from my new toy!

How much does the rubber butt pad seem to help guys? I bet my son will want one if they do much...

I've fired a friend's M44 with the steel butt plate, but it's hard to compare that with my 91/30 and 1" pad -- the length of pull is increased by the pad thickness, and the 91/30 is a couple pounds heavier rifle. I installed the butt pad before firing my 91/30 for the first time -- but when I took my Mosin to Appleseed, I fired around 400 rounds, from standing, sitting, and prone, over two days, and at the end my shoulder wasn't bruised (though my elbows were raw from resting on the thin pad I had, holding a 13.5 lb rifle). I'm a firm believer in the pad (and recoil issues aside, the inch added to length of pull is a very good thing if you're not dressed for winter in Stalingrad).

[zidave]

See that shallow milled recess in rear sight dovetail?
http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/P1010316.JPG

I'm going to have to do that on my dovetail. The mount slides forward a few mm everytime I pull the trigger.

[Old Ironsights]

Got a little bit more to do on mine...


When I first landed back in WY I bought a MN 91/30 so I would have something that could, theoretically, reach out farther than the .357 Rossi I had with me until my main "arsenal" followed me.

After I got all my guns here, I decided to (slowly) turn my 91/30 into a '59 Carbine... in pretty much the same way the Russians did... with hand tools & vodka.

Remember, original 91/30 is about two football fields long (well, OK, 49" without bayonet)...

So, I posted some of the initial conversion about 2 years ago...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Mosin/IMG_6528.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/Mosin/IMG_6528.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Mosin/IMG_6531.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/Mosin/IMG_6531.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Mosin/IMG_6540.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/Mosin/IMG_6540.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Mosin/IMG_6546.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/Mosin/IMG_6546.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Mosin/IMG_6693.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/Mosin/IMG_6693.jpg.html)

But I did not like LOP of the newly forshortened rifle when I installed recoil pad, so it sat for a good bit.

So, with help of hand saw, rusty old round bastard file and more vodka, I shortened stock 2" to compensate for recoil pad.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/Mosin/IMG_7019.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/Mosin/IMG_7019.jpg.html)

Gun now much shorter: Cleaning Rod normally only extends about 3" past hand guard. OAL now 43" WITH 2" pad installed.

But... not liking scope, (Ironsights, remember?) so...

http://www.mountsplus.com/AR-15_Accessories/AR-15_Scope_Rings/151-TGR-MN-FSAR.html

http://www.mountsplus.com/images10/products/TGR/Mosin_Nagant_9130_Front_Sight_Adapter-As.jpghttp://www.mountsplus.com/images10/products/TGR/Mosin_Nagant_9130_Front_Sight_Adapter-Cs.jpg

And Glorious Rifle of Revolution is reborn!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/MrMisanthrope/IMG_7027.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/MrMisanthrope/media/IMG_7027.jpg.html)

Sadly, bayonet, which is now nearly as long as the barrel, will not fit. This will someday be remedied... :twisted:

FWIW, there's 105 rounds right there along with the Russian Surplus cleaning kit & Oil/Solvent bottle...

Next to add, a Flash-hider/Muzzle Brake from http://mosinplus.com/

Came in today, but need to ream it out to .615 -.624 on the taper for the new barrel lenth.