WASR 10, no threads on the muzzle. I'd like to change that.

[Animal]

Hey folks,
Curiosity got the best of me, so I decided to remove the nut from the muzzle on my Romanian 10/63 rifle. I've been curious about muzzle brakes, so I wanted to see if it was threaded. It is not...

Is there a worthwhile method I can use to install a muzzle brake without paying big bucks for a gunsmith to do it? Or should I just leave well enough along and weld the nut back on?

[Bloodman14]

Animal, I have the die for the threads of a Yugo SKS; if it will 'fit' the barrel of your rifle, and if you will PROMISE to get it back to me, I would be happy to send it to you, and you can DIY.

[Multigunner]

Is this the set with a bore guide rod?

[Bloodman14]

Multi, no, it is just the die I bought to clean the threads after removing the grenade launcher and replacing it with a Tapco muzzle brake.

[Multigunner]

Probably best to get one with the guiding rod. That way the threaded portion is more likely to be concentric. A flashider or brake with a slight cant is bad for accuracy.
A cone shaped flash hider would be less affected by cant.

I inherited one of these WASR rifles awhile back, I'd been considering breaking loose its muzzle nut, but had been warned some of these were not threaded.
Flash hiders of the No.5 carbine are secured with cross pins. I'd considered making my own flash hider and securing it with pins if the muzzle turned out not to be threaded.

[Multigunner]

Edit doesn't work.
One should mike the muzzle before ordering a die set.
If undersized perhaps it can be adapted to used an AR flash hider thread.

[Animal]

Yeah, I am a little nervous about doing it myself if I don't have a guide rod. How much would a gunsmith typically charge to do this?

[T-Man]

This is simple....chuck up an over-sized piece of drill rod in the handy little lathe Harbor Freight sells, start taking off 1/1000's until it just fits in the bore, making sure to leave an inch or so machined to the exact diameter of your muzzle. Drag out your propane torch, heat that portion matching the muzzle to bright cherry red in medium ambient light. Let it air cool. Chuck it up in a padded vice, and run a die over it to thread it. When you reach the inside, with the last cutting stud to the point it is about to leave the bearing surface, slide it in the bore and continue threading onto the barrel, backing of every two turns. Use plenty of, spelled...LOTS....of cutting oil.