What size punch for Corbin 224 Jackets

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/09/u3uqe9yh.jpg
I have a Corbin CSP-1 press and S series three die set. I have had good luck in making Bullets from 22lr cases. So I thought I would try some Corbin J-22-705 .224 jackets just for fun. First thing I found out is Store bought Jackets cost more than fin match bullets. 2nd thing is the punch for my core seating die is .190 works great 22 LR but the Corbin jackets stick. So after a bunch of emails with Dave Corbin I ended up with a .2015 ex punch. I wanted smaller not larger. So what size would you all rec for me to buy.

[Scootshop]

2nd question what size ex punch for Corbin J-30-115 jackets. I got .251 and .258 both way to small. Corbin said .277 would you Concur?

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/09/satubeba.jpg

[Utah Shooter]

To the first post if I follow correctly you want a punch that scrapes the inside of the jacket. What you are really looking for in this step of seating the lead is to make sure you seat with no bleed by. Not sure if I follow what ".2015 ex punch" is! Do you mean internal punch?

[Utah Shooter]

Ok so guess you were typing as I was reading.

The punch pictured is the one that you want to scrape the inside walls of the jacket. Your best bet is to have punches made for the jackets, if you are really after building the best bullet.

Some of the best bullet makers have upwards of 6 different punches made per caliber in increments of .0005. The reason is jackets not only differ from lot to lot but sometimes the punches do wear out.

[Scootshop]

Thanks. Most of what I want to make are jackets from 22lr 9mm cases etc. just wanted to try Corbin Jackets for fun. I am all for having diff sizes. Just looking for a place to start. Fig there gots to be lots of people using these two Jackets with same dies I have. Am hoping for one of them to see this. Have gotten lots of good info over the years from this forum.

[clodhopper]

If you can measure your rimfire jacket wall thickness, then measure your corbin jacket wall thickness, apply some math.
You could make a pretty good guess.

[BLASTER62]

2nd question what size ex punch for Corbin J-30-115 jackets. I got .251 and .258 both way to small. Corbin said .277 would you Concur?

The best way to get the punch you need is to send Dave 3 or 4 sample jackets with weights of projo's you want to make. He will make the punch or punches to fit your needs.

[MIBULLETS]

The .2015 is the correct punch for the Corbin jackets.

22lr jackets should use something around .2065 or so.

Joe is right on, where you need a snug fit to stop the lead from gettting by the punch.

[blltsmth]

If you don't want to wait forever, contact LaFaun Floyd in the sponsor section here. If you send him some samples of your jackets and an explanation of what you are trying to do, I'm sure he can assist you. Don

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/10/ra8y7ady.jpg
I listed the wrong info. I got all mixed up. This is my core die. It's punch is .190. I am all good on that die. When I move to the core seating http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/10/2y6asasa.jpg
That's when the Corbin Jackets stick. Tried everything Corbin told me to do.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/10/u6ygehaj.jpg
.2015 us what came with Die set and works like a charm on 22lr cases. Sorry posting wrong spec before.

[Scootshop]

I sure got a lot to learn. But got a feeling I am really gonna enjoy the journey.

[Scootshop]

Am or do I need to pull the case off the punch after it has the lead seated? Or should it stay in the lower die like the 22lr cases do?

[MIBULLETS]

did you try using less lube on the jacket? I would wipe all the lube off then reseat it to pull it off the punch. You only need enough lube on the jacket so that you barely know its there. Too much and you don't have enough friction to pull off the punch.

.2015 is too small for 22lr cases it may work but not the best fit. You may end up with undersized finished bullets.

[Scootshop]

Tried no lube still sticks with the Corbin jackets. Checked my bullets all .2235 Fin size. Looks like you are right and I am undersized. That's good news and a easy fix. I was shooting 2" groups at 100 yards and was disappointed. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/10/
zebu6a7u.jpg

[Scootshop]

Tired a .202 with 22 cases and still get .223 core with the slightest hint of lead starting to creep up the case. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for taking the time to answer

[R.Ph. 380]

Tried no lube still sticks with the Corbin jackets. Checked my bullets all .2235 Fin size. Looks like you are right and I am undersized. That's good news and a easy fix. I was shooting 2" groups at 100 yards and was disappointed. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/10/
zebu6a7u.jpg

Scootshop,

try lubricating your punch and also, make sure the 22lr jacket is well annealed.

Bill

[Scootshop]

Rechecked and formed the point and if I take a little more time I get. .224 fin bullet.

[Utah Shooter]

After you pull the copper jacket off the punch is there a lot of bleed by?

[Scootshop]

Don you spoke of "If you don't want to wait forever, contact LaFaun Floyd in the sponsor section here. "
Looked and in the sponsor sec and did not see his info. Got a link? Better phone number. Would love to speak with someone on the phone and order a few diff punches to try.

[Utah Shooter]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?9124-alfloyd

I have his number but think perhaps you should get it from him.

[Scootshop]

Joe
No bleed at all. They look great. Talking the Corbin Jackets.
The Corbin Jackets are .198 inside
And the 22lr are .207 inside

[Utah Shooter]

So what punch are you using again for the copper?

[Scootshop]

I got two .2015 and .202

[aaronraad]

A larger punch might allow you to apply more pressure when seating the core without lead flowing past the punch.

Seating should require firm pressure on the press handle, but not heavy. A core seated jacket should be a snug fit ('finger'pressure) in your pointing die before it touches the point where the ogive starts to form. Too much pressure and your die will bulge, or you might get the jacket separating at the junction of the punch and lead.

Your empty jackets should be a snug fit (and 'finger' pressure again) in the core seating die before seating them. If they are undersized for your core seating die, then you will overwork them trying to bring them up to size; and most likely bulge the base before you can apply enough pressure to bring up the shank.

[supe47]

Just for reference, I sent some Corbin jackets to Brian so he could make me a punch for them. My punches are 0.1995".

[Scootshop]

Is there a ballpark if I measure the jackets like .001 or .0005 smaller than the Jacket. Corbin said for there J-30 308 jacket I measured at .282 to use .277 punch. Do you concur?

[MIBULLETS]

One other thing, the Corbin jacket has a step in it where it get quite a bit thicker. When I use those jackets, a 55 gr bullet is about as light as I would go with the .2015 punch. If you have to go deeper (lighter bullet than 55 gr) you will need a smaller punch.

If yours are lighter than that, try to make like a 58gr and see if it works ok with your punch.

[MIBULLETS]

Is there a ballpark if I measure the jackets like .001 or .0005 smaller than the Jacket. Corbin said for there J-30 308 jacket I measured at .282 to use .277 punch. Do you concur?

One thing on punch sizes. The jacket you are putting in the die is a few thousandths smaller than the hole and will expand when you apply pressure to it. This also increases the ID of the jacket at the point your punch contacts the lead. That is the ideal measurement.

[Randy C]

:coffeecom

[Scootshop]

Thank you all. Think I will order .206 for the 22 rf and try a .197 for Corbin
Just got LaFaun number and will call him Monday.

[Utah Shooter]

I got two .2015 and .202 I think your punch may be to big for the copper jacket.

[Scootshop]

Well, spoke with a expert on the phone, he said get a mini lathe. Well I have one so here goes. Thought I would take a pic before I wreck it. Got as much Lathe ex as I got swage ex. Not much. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/6u4e8umu.jpg

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/amyjeqyh.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/3azy8y3e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/3ametuqu.jpg

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/aquzana3.jpg

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/2e5yqube.jpg
Time to try her out.

[MIBULLETS]

Looks good!

[Scootshop]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/uqapaza8.jpg
Thank you all. I learned a lot. The answer to my question what size punch for Corbin J-22 jackets is .198
My homemade one after I hard it works like a charm. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/11/mupebu9y.jpg

[MIBULLETS]

What weight are they?

[Scootshop]

55gr is what I am aiming for. The die set if I recall is for 52gr flat base hollow point. So far I am getting about 1.5 group at 100. Pretty sure now after this thread that I will produce a 224 instead of the 223 my groups will close. I make a few hundred then weigh em and sort by weight. Now I will sort by weight and forget what it's called but uniform the tips.

[Randy C]

I just started doing this with Corbin jackets the first thing I had to do to keep my punch from sticking was make sure I had enough led to fill in the jacket's or my punch would try and go to deep and it would try to stick if it went past the step in the Jackets, Then I would switch and use my led core punch for the lighter bullets, I guess you would say I would use both punches. I'm making 6mm bullets, I only had to do it that way on light bullets. I like the way you solved your problem. There was several punches with my die set.

[Scootshop]

Thanks Randy. It was my first step of many I hope. I got a lot to learn and am enjoying the journey.

[BT Sniper]

Just read this thread for the first time. Looks like you got it all figured out.

Good shooting and swage on!

BT

p.s. nice work with the lathe!

[just bill]

I have read this thread with interest, since I am going to be swaging .308's and have read elsewhere about some variations in the jackets from lot to lot as well within the same lots. What procedure is being used to verify the id of the jackets to have punches made, or do you send the sample jackets to the die maker.

Thanks,
Bill

[Scootshop]

When I asked that ? I got a lot of diff answers none of them I liked. I was hoping for measure jacket buy xyz. The std answer I got from the most was send us a sample of what jacket you will use and we will make you a punch. That said what kind of jacket are you going to buy and from who? if its Corbin I can tell you what I use no worries.

[just bill]

When I asked that ? I got a lot of diff answers none of them I liked. I was hoping for measure jacket buy xyz. The std answer I got from the most was send us a sample of what jacket you will use and we will make you a punch. That said what kind of jacket are you going to buy and from who? if its Corbin I can tell you what I use no worries.

That sounds like the answer I get a lot, as well as "it depends on what you are going to do". At the moment I have Richard Corbin's .308 1.20 and 1.30 on order, and once I get the hang of the swaging, some more accurate jackets like the J4's if they are any better than Richards. I just talked to the machine shop supplier I deal with and the one option I was given was a half or full ball small hole gauge with a 1" mic. I'm not a machinist however I have worked in an atomic machine shop in my younger days.

Thanks,
Bill

[midnight]

Many jackets have tapered walls. I use a ball micrometer to determine this. The punch diameter differs if you are making an open tip or a lead tip because the core is seated to a different depth. I use a set of pin gauges inserted in the jacket mouth to different depths to determine punch diameter at that depth. The best solution is to learn to make your own punches, you're going to need a lot of them. Get into making copper tubing jackets and you need even more punch sizes. Punches are easy to make. I don't have a lathe but I use my milling machine as a lathe. I chuck the punch in the R8 spindle & and clamp the cutter in the milling vise. O1 drill rod works well.

Bob

[just bill]

Many jackets have tapered walls. I use a ball micrometer to determine this. The punch diameter differs if you are making an open tip or a lead tip because the core is seated to a different depth. I use a set of pin gauges inserted in the jacket mouth to different depths to determine punch diameter at that depth. The best solution is to learn to make your own punches, you're going to need a lot of them. Get into making copper tubing jackets and you need even more punch sizes. Punches are easy to make. I don't have a lathe but I use my milling machine as a lathe. I chuck the punch in the R8 spindle & and clamp the cutter in the milling vise. O1 drill rod works well.

Bob

Bob you are right about the tapered jackets, that was a problem I experienced with my .458 using .45 acp brass, I could not get a definitive answer for the machinist to make me an adjustable core mold. However after many threads and a few phone calls we came up with a .40 as the diameter.

Bill