Make me a recipe

[seanhagerty]

96157

Here is what I have. I included the ointment because its major components are lanolin and beeswax.

I may have some beeswax on the way, maybe.

Tell me your thoughts.

Sean

[btroj]

I see 45/45/10

[seanhagerty]

I guess I should have been a bit more specific. This is for my lubrisizer. I thought 45/45/10 was for tumble lubing. If I am wrong, let me know.

is that ALOX, mineral spirits and JPW?

Sean

[btroj]

Yep.

For a lubesizer I don't see anything but a recipe for disaster.

[seanhagerty]

ok. Fair enough. I wont do it then. If the beeswax shows up, any thoughts?

[btroj]

Beeswax and some Xlox would work. I don't know the percentages but would start around 45 Xlox and 55 beeswax.

[seanhagerty]

Very good, thank you sir.

[357maximum]

Making you a recipe without knowing what you are lubing and the application of said lubed boolit is ...well it is damn near impossible. And I concur with Broj about the current recipe for disaster......now if you throw in some beeswax and some vaseline we might be able to come up with something for non-demanding usage.

[seanhagerty]

I am a noob at making loob. (Had to say it.) I am trying to put together something for my 9mm. Nothing real fast, just plinking and two gun and idpa style comp rounds. Boolits are from a Lee 2R mold, I think they drop at about 124gr.

[Dusty Bannister]

Instead of random purchases of "stuff" you might be better off to look at the stickies in this section and pick a lube to make. Some will lose a lot of shelf space with ingrediants that might never be used in making lubes. This way you can determine what you already have, and what you still need and be ready when the time comes. You might use care in selecting products as "contains lanolin" is not the same as "is lanolin". Good luck.

[timtonya]

Red n sticky grease helps. Also vaseline.

[fryboy]

even tho one can lube and size with a lubrasizer one can do either or both at the same time , you can also use the tumble lube and the sizer or even make a thick version of the tl by omitting the 10 %ms and dip lubing then size as required

corona doesnt have much beeswax , only enough to help offset the oils used as the medicine part and in fact it's still softer than straight lanolin usp ( even softer than vaseline IMHO ) ,one can btw gently refine the corona and remove some of the additives , sadly of note the aroma isnt one of them , you'd end up with a thicker lanolin however with minute quantities of beeswax left

the paraffin isnt the best for a lube base , something that you're missing the most according to the foto , yes it can work but is problematic at best , it's best use is to harden a lube a bit , most paraffin based lubes are at best when used for very low demanding applications , the 9 mm i rate at medium to high demand , it is deemed a hi-intensity cartridge for good reason ,if one does a bit of reading thru this site it's also one of the harder for many to have success with which is far from saying that it can not be done , at most i'd use paraffin 50/50 with beeswax such as saeco green lube
some use JPW straight for a tumble lube but again you're back to the "non-stick" lubes that doesnt go well in a sizer
i have a mix of 45/45/10 minus the 10 , i added to beeswax ,it works fairly well but far from my holy grail

[randyrat]

I can't sleep, so I will venture into this adventure of making lube for your lube sizer. I'm going on JUST WHAT YOU HAVE NOW
1)cook off 1/8th cup of Ointment low temp- keep separate for now
2) melt a 1/4 lb of gulf wax and lower the temp a little
3) add two TBLs of JPW and stir, keeping the wax just melted ( you could pre cook the solvents out of this first, your just after the benefits of the Carnauba wax)
4) add 3 TBLS of alox and stir and keep melted
5) lower the temp to just over melt temp and stir in cooked off ointment
6) Now let the whole thing cool and test the stickiness and/or hardness
Too soft= remelt and add small amount of wax until it is where you want it
Too hard=add equal amounts of all except wax. a little at a time
When you get it softer than a candle but not mushy, it's ready!

I think this mix will get you by for now, not for any extreme loads but fine for Low to medium and it's gonna smoke. To use it in your lube sizer you may have to heat it slightly. Sounds like a fun project

[randyrat]

Feel free to jump in and adjust it and tell me recipe is no good and I'm full of it, your not gonna hurt my feelings

[seanhagerty]

OK, lets add a layer to this. I now have a lb of beeswax, and jar of vasoline and several bars of ivory soap to add to the mix.

[btroj]

Satans Lube=


*BY WEIGHT*
6 oz vaseline
6 oz Paraffin
6 oz Beeswax
1 ounce ivory soap

Melt vaseline and paraffin raise temp till it just starts to smoke....., add soap .....cook at the smoking point till soap froth is gone....remove from heat wait a few minutes...add beeswax.......enjoy.
When you come across a kettle of crazy it's best not to stir it, but if you must...use a paddle, not a spoon..


Try this developed by 357maximum. He seems to have decent luck with it and it isn't difficult to make.

[6bg6ga]

I don't think bullet lube is rocket science. I used to watch my dad throw together some grease, vasoline, and graphite together for his bullet lube and it never leaded his guns. I use 50/50 beeswax/alox with some candle wax thrown in to make it a little harder.

[btroj]

Preventing leading is pretty simple. Good accuracy is another thing entirely.

If you mostly shoot short range handguns about any lube will work.

[6bg6ga]

Preventing leading is pretty simple. Good accuracy is another thing entirely.

If you mostly shoot short range handguns about any lube will work.

Been handloading and shooting for years now and I don't see bullet lube affecting my accuracy. I've used a few home created recipes as well as the store bought brands with the same loads and accuracy has been the same for me.

[btroj]

I can assure you that I, and others, have had huge differences from lube alone. Sme shoot well for a few rounds then fall apart. Some never shoot well but prevent leading. Some are ok unless it gets above 80 degrees.

Ask Geae, Run, or 357Max if lube matters in accuracy.

[DLCTEX]

For lubrisizer I reccomend making a batch of Ben's Red and just pour the melted lube in the lubsizer. I did make sticks with mine, but melt and pour is easier.

[357maximum]

ask those that drive specialty pistols to 2100fps and beyond or those that shoot rifle boolits to 2700-3600 fps and beyond if lube matters....


cliff notes version.....YES

[6bg6ga]

Me thinks this is like the high dollar resistors and capacitors I play with in tube amplifiers. To some the name makes the capacitor sound better but in the end its just snake oil. But then again its just my opinion. I've never personally had an accuracy problem with any lube I've made and or purchased. Maybe a case of the shakes?

[WILCO]

I am a noob at making loob. (Had to say it.) I am trying to put together something for my 9mm.

Whatever happened to doing research, getting a good understanding of the task and then asking questions???? "Gimme" threads are rude.

[6bg6ga]

I have to disagree with you. What is the point of being here if we cannot answer a few questions. The poster is looking for a quick answer/solution and I don't see that as being rude.

[Eutectic]

I don't think bullet lube is rocket science. I used to watch my dad throw together some grease, vasoline, and graphite together for his bullet lube and it never leaded his guns. I use 50/50 beeswax/alox with some candle wax thrown in to make it a little harder.

Me thinks this is like the high dollar resistors and capacitors I play with in tube amplifiers. To some the name makes the capacitor sound better but in the end its just snake oil.


"Ask Geae, Run, or 357Max if lube matters in accuracy."

And several more posting on this forum for that matter!

No..... making boolit lube is not rocket science..... IT IS MORE DIFFICULT THAN THAT! That is if you want your lube to perform great in all aspects across the board.

Most lube posts bring up 'leading'... No lead and you're home free! As if it was so easy as that for qualifying some lube as a GOOD LUBE!

And then you want your 50/50 harder.... Why? Softer lubes usually (read almost always) are more accurate than hard lubes. I'm talking comprehensive testing here not a couple of shots at a cardboard box!

Have you tested different lubes in comprehensive side by side comparisons? Cleaning your gun and refouling to the next lube change and save the targets for future study? If you do, then.... and only then, will you know if a boolit lube shoots accurate (for that specific gun and load combo) You will be on your way to finding THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN LUBES! ACCURACY BEING ONE IMPORTANT ASPECT!

If you really want a challenge go to work on 'cold starts' and cold weather boolit lube performance!

I have eight lubes I've formulated that I consider very good. Seven are actually mine and one is Mike's 6-6-6-and 1 formula. Two of these I would call very, very good. Notice I haven't said perfect! WE AREN'T THERE YET!



You need to know 6bg6ga..... that some of us are as 'versed' in boolit lube as you seem to be in high dollar resistors and capacitors...

Eutectic

[WILCO]

What is the point of being here if we cannot answer a few questions. The poster is looking for a quick answer/solution and I don't see that as being rude.

Go ahead. Answer all the "GIMME" threads you want. Nobody is stopping you.

[6bg6ga]

"Ask Geae, Run, or 357Max if lube matters in accuracy."

And several more posting on this forum for that matter!

No..... making boolit lube is not rocket science..... IT IS MORE DIFFICULT THAN THAT! That is if you want your lube to perform great in all aspects across the board.

Most lube posts bring up 'leading'... No lead and you're home free! As if it was so easy as that for qualifying some lube as a GOOD LUBE!

And then you want your 50/50 harder.... Why? Softer lubes usually (read almost always) are more accurate than hard lubes. I'm talking comprehensive testing here not a couple of shots at a cardboard box!

Have you tested different lubes in comprehensive side by side comparisons? Cleaning your gun and refouling to the next lube change and save the targets for future study? If you do, then.... and only then, will you know if a boolit lube shoots accurate (for that specific gun and load combo) You will be on your way to finding THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN LUBES! ACCURACY BEING ONE IMPORTANT ASPECT!

If you really want a challenge go to work on 'cold starts' and cold weather boolit lube performance!

I have eight lubes I've formulated that I consider very good. Seven are actually mine and one is Mike's 6-6-6-and 1 formula. Two of these I would call very, very good. Notice I haven't said perfect! WE AREN'T THERE YET!



You need to know 6bg6ga..... that some of us are as 'versed' in boolit lube as you seem to be in high dollar resistors and capacitors...

Eutectic

It would be interesting to have some actual test data.

I've tried different lubes in pistol calibers both hard and soft and like I said no difference in accuracy in my hand. I've gone to the trouble of weighing my bullets to obtain a decent base in which to obtain unbiased data. My cases have been checked for length and were the same brand. Powder was tricked and weighed for each cartridge. I obtained groups less than 1-1.25" at 30 yards with the gun in test.

If you would care to SHARE your test data the the way you setup your tests I would be more than happy to review it with an open mind.

[6bg6ga]

Go ahead. Answer all the "GIMME" threads you want. Nobody is stopping you.

I can agree with you on that.

[runfiverun]

6b6ga go to the sticky, the quest for the ultimate lube.
pete's work isn't fully outlined in that particular thread. [but I'd bet there's a whole bunch of descriptions and pictures]
I will say this too.
if you're gonna argue lubes with someone, he's not one of the the ones to do it with.
he has spent the time getting up at 0 dark thirty waiting in the sub zero temps to make those one or two shots in the non wind conditions to see what cold will do to a lube
and it's affects on a dirtied rifle barrel.
or a pitted barrel, or a smooth one, or a clean one...

[swheeler]

I don't think bullet lube is rocket science. I used to watch my dad throw together some grease, vasoline, and graphite together for his bullet lube and it never leaded his guns. I use 50/50 beeswax/alox with some candle wax thrown in to make it a little harder.

You'd better read the Extreme Boolit lube- The Quest thread then, that might change your mind;)

[6bg6ga]

You'd better read the Extreme Boolit lube- The Quest thread then, that might change your mind;)

Like I said... i'd like to see the data. Loads, temps, velocity, and so forth. How was the test conducted? Was there a shooter involved? Gun in a fixture?

[btroj]

So you question the validity of the tests done by others because YOU can't see a difference in handguns at 30 yards?

Ask 44 man about lubes in his guns at 100 yards. He has posted about that numerous times. The lube quest thread is full of tests targets, data, and reports.

Yes, a shooter was involved in many, it was ME. I used a single alloy, bullets cast in one batch, all the same size, same check, and same load. Fired multiple targets with many lubes. Some lubes did well, others did not. Leading wasn't an issue with any of them.

Handguns at 30 yards are not a good test for lube biased accuracy tests.

[6bg6ga]

Listen, I'm not here to argue with you. I don't worry about bullet lube at 30 yards or 50. I'm not into shooting rifles with cast bullets...not my thing. I have read thru several pages of data on the thread and I'm not impressed with the results. In my opinion everything must be taken into consideration with analysis. I will admit that I have not read far enough into the thread to see how detailed the analysis has been. If I were conducting an experiment I would use a fixture to hold the gun so that the simple act of holding the gun is eliminated. That would be number one. Temperature would also come into play and I would document temp changes at 5 degrees and check to see if accuracy was changing.

If there is something in excell spread that I can down load and look at that would be fine. So far from what I have read I see speculation and not a whole lot to logically back it up.

[swheeler]

wow cabin fever strikes again

[Sig]

Listen, I'm not here to argue with you. I don't worry about bullet lube at 30 yards or 50. I'm not into shooting rifles with cast bullets...not my thing. I have read thru several pages of data on the thread and I'm not impressed with the results. In my opinion everything must be taken into consideration with analysis. I will admit that I have not read far enough into the thread to see how detailed the analysis has been. If I were conducting an experiment I would use a fixture to hold the gun so that the simple act of holding the gun is eliminated. That would be number one. Temperature would also come into play and I would document temp changes at 5 degrees and check to see if accuracy was changing.

If there is something in excell spread that I can down load and look at that would be fine. So far from what I have read I see speculation and not a whole lot to logically back it up.
If that's your take on what others here have done, I suggest you do your own testing. If it is as easy as you seem to think, you should be able to make a lube that will make you rich. I'll continue to read & appreciate what the good folks here share.

[btroj]

I am not doing my testing to impress you. I don't have spread sheets as they aren't needed. I'm not doing a presentation for a committee, I'm testing lines and sharing the results with like minded people.

For a guy whose thing isn't shooting cast in rifles you certainly seem to have strong opinions on how it should be done.

I can't wait for you to ask 44man why he doesn't use a Ransom rest to test lubes and loads for his revolvers.

[runfiverun]

5 degree temps aren't the issue it's more like temp ranges.
50 to 90-f temps are super simple to cover with crayons [real ones not the cheap Chinese knock-offs] and Vaseline.
we chose rifles because they are more temperamental and show things in the barrel a revolver won't generally show.
44 man has shown many times what does and doesn't work for him at distance and explains why [in detail] in the revolvers.

[swheeler]

5 degree temps aren't the issue it's more like temp ranges.
50 to 90-f temps are super simple to cover with crayons [real ones not the cheap Chinese knock-offs] and Vaseline.
we chose rifles because they are more temperamental and show things in the barrel a revolver won't generally show.
44 man has shown many times what does and doesn't work for him at distance and explains why [in detail] in the revolvers.

I knew I was saving my crayons for something, hardly use them anymore, still use the vasoline though.

[btroj]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?223994-Ben-s-Red-in-the-30-30-Marlin

Here is an excellent thread that shows results from people investigating different lubes.

[6bg6ga]

5 degree temps aren't the issue it's more like temp ranges.
50 to 90-f temps are super simple to cover with crayons [real ones not the cheap Chinese knock-offs] and Vaseline.
we chose rifles because they are more temperamental and show things in the barrel a revolver won't generally show.
44 man has shown many times what does and doesn't work for him at distance and explains why [in detail] in the revolvers.

I can see that no one has done any detailed analysis in their jobs. An example of the usage of 5 degree intervals would be the possibility of graphing the results and the possibility of the accuracy declining with decreasing temperature and a possible temperature where the accuracy was the best. But I guess information like that wouldn't make any sense.

Are all the results the same with different calibers? Barrel twists? Bullet weight?

[btroj]

Oh, I understand detailed analysis quite well. I also understand that this is a very different situation. We have many variables we can't control.

What I also understand is that when myself, and others, see the same type of results with a lube the we can reasonably state it wasn't good for accuracy. Big groups are pretty obvious, so are flyers.

We are all using different rifles, different cartridges, different bullets. We are at various temps and various altitudes. Somehow we seem to get very similar results. Lubes that give purge flyers for me do the same for Run and Gear. I don't see that as coincidence.

We are not talking about small difference here. I can shoot 1.5 inch 5 shot groups all day long with my test rifle and a specific load using a specific lube. Change lubes and groups can vary from 2 to 5 inches with the same load. These are often shot the same day so temp varies by only a small amount as the groups are shot in under an hour.

[357maximum]

If you are not willing to do the work for something you do not care about why should someone hand you the info anyway...might wanna stick your head into the sand or whatever orifice makes you happy and then B*tch...no one will be distracted by the low humming sound that way........Methinks someone should have went into politics...all I got to say about that.

[btroj]

While I may have used slightly different terms than 357max I can't disagree with his ultimate message.

[runfiverun]

5 degree intervals ain't needed.
by the time I cast/hand lube/size/weight sort/and load everything, it leaves me one day of my week off to go actually test the stuff.

-20 is minus 20.
if that's what the temp is the day I go shoot that's the temp it is that day, I don't have time to wait for it to get -25 [or for it to warm up to -15] to shoot another group.

[Eutectic]

I can see that no one has done any detailed analysis in their jobs. An example of the usage of 5 degree intervals would be the possibility of graphing the results and the possibility of the accuracy declining with decreasing temperature and a possible temperature where the accuracy was the best. But I guess information like that wouldn't make any sense.

Are all the results the same with different calibers? Barrel twists? Bullet weight?

Read all 139 pages of the thread! Your Evelyn Wood speed reading technique won't cut it on as detailed a subject(s) as are covered on those pages. Every question you have 'rattled' off in your quote above is answered. Temperatures from -20º to probably to 115º are covered. No... change that to -23ºF as I tested in that bitter cold just a few days back! Think hBN...

Run is right as problems will run in temperature areas. You find degradation as you test temperature extremes. You don't need an 'Excel' sheet! The answers are in the 139 pages. Read them.... You might learn something! No two guns are the same either! Some may shoot one lube better than another lube. Some guns may span 15 or 20 degrees more temp than another gun! So there is a 'sea' of variables you always fight.

Read the 139 pages and join in the fight rather than throwing out smart thoughts that have already been covered.

Eutectic

[geargnasher]

6b6ga go to the sticky, the quest for the ultimate lube.
pete's work isn't fully outlined in that particular thread.
[B]I will say this too.
if you're gonna argue lubes with someone, he's not one of the the ones to do it with.
he has spent the time getting up at 0 dark thirty waiting in the sub zero temps to make those one or two shots in the non wind conditions to see what cold will do to a lube
and it's affects on a dirtied rifle barrel.
or a pitted barrel, or a smooth one, or a clean one...

That's the truth, right there.

6bg6ga, keep digging yourself a hole, it's kinda funny to watch.

Gear

[6bg6ga]

Oh, I understand detailed analysis quite well. I also understand that this is a very different situation. We have many variables we can't control.

What I also understand is that when myself, and others, see the same type of results with a lube the we can reasonably state it wasn't good for accuracy. Big groups are pretty obvious, so are flyers.

We are all using different rifles, different cartridges, different bullets. We are at various temps and various altitudes. Somehow we seem to get very similar results. Lubes that give purge flyers for me do the same for Run and Gear. I don't see that as coincidence.

We are not talking about small difference here. I can shoot 1.5 inch 5 shot groups all day long with my test rifle and a specific load using a specific lube. Change lubes and groups can vary from 2 to 5 inches with the same load. These are often shot the same day so temp varies by only a small amount as the groups are shot in under an hour.

Thank you for the answer and information without an attitude.

[btroj]

I have an attitude but it doesn't show up at 30 yards so you never noticed......

[MBTcustom]

Thank you for the answer and information without an attitude.

Hello, my name is Tim Malcolm/Malcolm Ballistic Tool. I am a gunsmith and I build extremely accurate and beautiful rifles. That too is based on science, hard work, and method.
I am building rifles for three of these fellers specifically to test lube with (gear, btroj, and run5run)
I can assure you that the lengths they have gone to in order to find the perfect lube has been extremely scientific and methodical.
Had you actually read anything in those threads you would have seen that.
As it is, you have come into a thread that was not yours and taken it over by insulting the best minds we have on this subject.

We have rules against baiting/trolling and if you don't move along and quit making a fool of yourself whilst insulting the members who actually read, experiment and contribute, you're going to collect an infraction from yours truly.

[leftiye]

If you'll buy vaseline, and Ivory soap, perhaps you'll spring for some lithium grease? Maybe even moly graph? Toilet bowl wax could be used in place of vaseline (it's what is called "slack wax" and is very similar to vaseline but thicker)? It seems to me that your recipe needs a bit of an actual lubricant, though you don't need much. Just add the lithium grease as an equal part with the others. You may need to adjust your paraffin ( soft microwax might be preferrable to canning paraffin (see some of 357 maximum's lube threads)), proportions to get the hardness you like (or better still the hardness needed for the temps the lube will be used in). Do a search on speed green lube. It is beeswax and bullplate lube (it is probly possible to use two cycle oil instead).

[leftiye]

I've read all of the above (now), and I read all of the Ultimate lube thread as it was happening. As a third party here i will suggest to 6bg6ga that he stop arguing and he might learn a lot. Whilst arguing I doubt that is possible. Heck, you're not even arguing anything more than that you don't like their methodology (which you discerned to be inadequate how? -psychically?). You stack up the fact that your (ho hum? - discerned psychically) accuracy in your peestolas doesn't show variance between lubes to equate with all of that on the other side? If your accuracy (and a ransom rest can be OUT SHOT which you obviously didn't know) is even average in a pistol, lubes may not make a big enough difference to notice at seven (?) yards. I'd say can't be seen probly. Did you get up with a hangover (wrong side of bed)?

[chuckbuster]

BACK!!!!! to the original Question. The following is my FAIL SAFE NEVER LET ME DOWN PERFECT FOR ALL Applications Recipe;
Ingredients
1 standard #10 Envelope
1 First Class stamp (I just use the "Forever Stamps" no idea what they really cost, do prefer the ones with trees or critters on them)
1 Blank Sheet of Paper
I USPS Money Order for $20 US Funds

Step 1; Write Name Address and Phone # on Blank sheet of paper, also a short note with quantity lube desired that matches $ amount on Money Order. Always say THANX.
Step 2; Fold Note paper so it will fit envelope, put with Money Order in Envelope and seal it shut.
Step 3; Put Stamp on Envelope
Step 4; If I want Green Lube I address envelope to a Guy in Wisconsin, if Red is desired it goes to Arkansas….
Step 5; Put Envelope in mailbox.
Step 6; During the 3-5 day wait, I cast some more boolits, maybe go to the range with previously loaded ammo, straighten up the shop a little etc.
After the 3-5 day wait a package appears in my mailbox with lube in it and I get busy with the lubrisizer. No Mess, no Mistakes, nothing scorched or burned, house does not smell funny & wifey still happy (well at least mostly)

Hasn't failed me yet.
Kevin

[bhn22]

Since we're being analytical, I'll just add one little thought. If they are indeed "all the same", there wouldn't be so many different lubes. I'll add observations from a third party, who explains such things very well. Perhaps Glens writings will help some understand why there are so many approaches to bullet lube.
http://www.lasc.us/FryxellLubeCastBullets.htm
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_5_Lubrication.htm

[runfiverun]

boolit lube is something akin to engine lube only not.
the same wear tests apply outside the barrel but they are only an indicator of the ep's effectiveness.
however many of the same ingredients are used in the two "lubes"
I talk with the inventor of voodoo lube occasionally and he isn't completely satisfied with his recipe which has been available for 10+ years now.
and a huuuge step forward in our learning curve come from an actual lubrication engineer

part of our problem lies in our tolerances, imagine an engine with plus tolerances.
then try and squeeze a solid into a liquid into a non space and expect it to hold back 35-55 k psi.. meanwhile the plus tolerance part is pushing gunk ahead of and to the side of itself.

anybody that want's in on the game is welcome....

[btroj]

If you are smart you will resist that urge.....

I'm in to deep to get out now

[seanhagerty]

HAHA! This is the absolute failsafe way. I just talked to dcrockett about this very recipe.

And FYI.... I did read the stickies, and didnt find anything that would fit with the ingredients I had on hand. I was hoping some one had a magic recipe that would let me get through this with ingredients onhand.

So, if I was rude ( as I was earlier described), I apologize.


BACK!!!!! to the original Question. The following is my FAIL SAFE NEVER LET ME DOWN PERFECT FOR ALL Applications Recipe;
Ingredients
1 standard #10 Envelope
1 First Class stamp (I just use the "Forever Stamps" no idea what they really cost, do prefer the ones with trees or critters on them)
1 Blank Sheet of Paper
I USPS Money Order for $20 US Funds

Step 1; Write Name Address and Phone # on Blank sheet of paper, also a short note with quantity lube desired that matches $ amount on Money Order. Always say THANX.
Step 2; Fold Note paper so it will fit envelope, put with Money Order in Envelope and seal it shut.
Step 3; Put Stamp on Envelope
Step 4; If I want Green Lube I address envelope to a Guy in Wisconsin, if Red is desired it goes to Arkansas….
Step 5; Put Envelope in mailbox.
Step 6; During the 3-5 day wait, I cast some more boolits, maybe go to the range with previously loaded ammo, straighten up the shop a little etc.
After the 3-5 day wait a package appears in my mailbox with lube in it and I get busy with the lubrisizer. No Mess, no Mistakes, nothing scorched or burned, house does not smell funny & wifey still happy (well at least mostly)

Hasn't failed me yet.
Kevin

[btroj]

Sean, I don't think you were ever rude. You asked a question, got an answer.

You just don't have great ingredients on hand. I would look seriously at Satans Lube. It is pretty easy to make, not expensive, and should work well in multiple situations.

[seanhagerty]

Thanks man. I have the ingredients in hand for satans lube as I type this. I will give it a shot tomorrow after the gals get off for work.

[357maximum]

Sean...my comment was not directed at you, just to clarify...it was firmly directed at the heckler in the 1st row....you know the one that has done nothing on his own but expects bar graphs from those that do....sorry if you thought I was flaming you....I was not.

[seanhagerty]

Good lord no. You have been nothing but helpful. As have everyone on this board. I cant thank everyone enough for all the help on everything here.

[geargnasher]

I'm going to throw in a second or third for Satan's Lube given your ingredients. 357Max had a good idea there by soaping the old pre-Alox NRA formula a bit to make up for what Vaseline isn't anymore. Another thing that works well is to sub in two parts Fluidmaster toilet wax ring for 2 parts of the Vaseline in Satan's lube, but not really necessary. It isn't perfect, but in his words "Good 'nuff". In mine, "better than most" would apply.

Gear

[357maximum]

Gear your "2/3+1/3" is good....2/3Vaseline 1/3 Toilet Ring is about as close as I could get to the old vaseline that came in a white threaded lid steel tub from the late 50's early 60's. Only other things that came close were cosmoline ($$$$) and that Trenton "brown vaseline" underground gas pipe coating.

Nicest thing about Satan's Lube is that it is super easily modded to ones environment.......the folks at the NRA way back when had a pretty good clue about what works....and soaping the old NRA lube means anyone can walk into a standard hobby shop/grocery store/honey salesman to get the ingredients. The major "issue" with MML for instance is that alot of folks do not wanna buy an 11 lb block of wax that they have to order via the net.......Satan's Lube was a direct result of me trying to remove the online purchase from the equation. It had the side benefit of removing the stinky lithi greases from the mix which conserves domestic harmony for those that are brave enough to kook loob in the house while the boss is away. You can eat Satan's Lube too, nothing in there that is toxic....might speed up your intestinal tract, :lol: but for those with curious kids...it may be a plus. My sister liked eating chapstick as a child is the reason this thought comes to mind.....she could not be trusted with chapstick till she was a teen in fact....weird kid.

[seanhagerty]

First batch of satans lube cooled off and awaiting boolits.

Thanks for the idea on this. I found that two bricks of the parrafin i had weighed 8 ounces. So, I made it an 8/8/8/1.2 mix.

BTW, in the future when you mention foaming, make sure you also mention the "BIG foam over". That is where all my smoke came from!!

Cant wait to try this in my pistole.

[btroj]

Add the soap slowly, in small amounts. Let it foam them leave it alone for a bit. Stirring will increase the foaming.

I would melt the Vaseline first then add the soap. Get the foaming out of the way and let it get the soap melted. Might need lots of heat. Then remove from heat and add the waxes. The residual heat will melt the wax and this also results in cooling. Be sure to stir while this happens.

[seanhagerty]

wilco next time.

Sean

[HiVelocity]

I am trying to put together something for my 9mm.

Why not just cut your Alox with mineral spirits and simply tumble lube? Quick, easy, no hassle.

I tumble lube EVERYTHING with 45/45/10. A tiny bit goes a l-o-n-g way. Lasts forever. Just my .02 worth.

HV

[357maximum]

In some of my other posts I mention using a bigger pot than one needs....I neglected to this time// you figured it out though.......add the soap slowly....use big pot.....mighty important. :lol:

[btroj]

Prevents some potentially nasty burns....

[seanhagerty]

big pot= very very important!!!