About ready to try ES some ?

[Freightman]

If I make me a tray and put the boolits in nose first , then spray the crimp grove down I will have a PC boolit with no PC on the nose, that should be ok as the nose doesn't touch the bore. Right!

[MUSTANG]

Freightman:

My postulation:

1. An uncovered nose, but the sides and base covered with PC will provide protection against leading.

2. There may be an unbalancing affect on the boolit if there is a "Heavy" portion of powder coating on one side of the nose (Ogive) area.

3. PC applied with the base down, "runs" down the boolit when cooking leaving a more uniform nose. Sizing removes any "Heavy" sides as they are swaged down during sizing.

My postulation for what it's worth. I am still trying to get at least 1.5MOA with .30 and .224 boolits, so I may not have it figured out yet.

[Beagle333]

It will be okay as long as you don't get lumping, sagging or flashing hanging off the nose. You are correct in that the sides are all that needs to be coated to prevent leading. The ogive area of the nose and the base do not touch the lands/grooves, or at least not the way I load em. :wink:

I cannot (yet) find a way to spray the sides completely without getting a buildup of powder around the part of the boolit contacting the foil/tray, or in this case.... the nose. This is why I use the fender washer method and just spray the boolit from top down to the start of the GC shank. Any flashing or "ring" around the bottom of the last driving band and top of GC shank is sized off when the GC is seated.
As far as nose first, everything I have tried so far results in a "ring" forming around the nose where it touched the foil or tray, OR paint seepage down through the foil and it runs down the nose a bit.

Good luck with it and I hope you perfect the method!!!!! :-D