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mdi
02-07-2014, 07:05 PM
I've been looking at threads looking for methods of applying powder coating to bullets, and most are kinda sketchy (or mebbe I was looking for a "how to" thread). Anyway, I tried twice today with good results. I don't want to invest in a compressor and powder coating equipment so I tried the tumble method. First try was some .44 265 gr. RNFP I cast. I cleaned the bullets with brake clean and dried on a paper towel. I used a small rectangular plastic container 3x3x5 wedged in a HF tumbler drum with a rag. I put about 1/2 teaspoon of red powder I bought from ebay in the container with about 20 bullets and tumbled for 10-15 minutes, dry, powder only. Set bullets on a alum. foil (dull side down) covered pan. Cooked at about 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Did this twice. Results were fair to good. Slightly uneven, blotchy, but complete coverage.

Second try was similar; 240 gr Lee .44 SWC, cleaned in brake clean, heated the bullets to warm (not too hot to hold) with a heat gun, and tumbled for 15 minutes. Cooked at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Results were good. Smooth, even, complete coverage. Picked up bullets with needle nosed pliers, but powder did not come off where pliers touched them. Powder coat increased bullet diameter by .001" to .002". Resized back to .431" and coating stuck well...

Gonna keep trying this tumble method but have found warming the bullet and cooking at 400 degrees for a full 30 minutes works well so far.

Pics to come...

Beagle333
02-07-2014, 08:32 PM
I got "lumpy" when pre-warming my boolits. Mine do the best when just dumped in there at room temp. I tried 2 different kinds of powder from diff makers and both lumped on the warm boolits. Some have gotten that to work good, but it just didn't do it for me and I tried it from "kinda warm" to "hot to handle." 8-) Cool booits got a pretty even dusting when tumbled though.

Walter Laich
02-07-2014, 09:02 PM
Was wondering why you settled on a 30 min baking time?

mdi
02-08-2014, 01:11 PM
I did a little research on general powder coating on line. Saw a couple manufacturer/vendors of supplies and equipment and under their powder use suggestions one site noted 390 degrees for 25-30 minutes and another said 400 degrees for 20 minutes. My first batch was not a smooth coating, slightly lumpy, so I upped the time to allow the powder to "melt" on more smoothly, and it worked.

Again, I'm just experimenting with a few bullets at a time, and of course this is my first attempt. I expect to have failures and not-so-hot results, but I may have good results too. If it continues to be as easy as it's been so far, and I get good results, I'll continue to work on my process (and I may invest in a gun too, never know). So far this process is easier than pan lubing...

mdi
02-08-2014, 05:21 PM
Tried again...
1. Finished, smooth bullets
2. Cleaned bullets in container w/powder.
3. Container wedged in HF tumbler drum.
4. Tumbled 15 minutes, cold.
5. Ready for oven, 400 degrees for 30 minutes.

mdi
02-08-2014, 05:27 PM
Couple more...
Container wedged in drum. tumbling. 2nd pic, previous attempt w/Lee 240 gr. T/L SWC.
My DT method seems to be working, so far, I just gotta load some up and shoot 'em...

prickett
02-08-2014, 06:29 PM
Are you coating commercial lead? If not, what is the purpose for cleaning your lead?

firefly1957
02-08-2014, 06:57 PM
I have had the best luck when i wash the bullets with acetone before coating even though the bullets were just cast and cooled there is something that turns the acetone a little yellow and with it gone i seem to get a better bond of coating to the bullet.

Walter Laich
02-08-2014, 11:05 PM
I'll have to try that. My HF red is a bit picky for me where everyone else says it's the easiest to use

Hang Fire
02-09-2014, 12:03 AM
I used carburetor cleaner to clean boolits. Was going to use the Wife's rock tumbler, but tried the hand tumbling in a rectangular plastic container for just a few minutes and got good powder coverage.

Preheated oven to 400 degrees and inserted screen tray with boolits spread out in it haphazardly for 10 minutes. Results were very good and if have continued success with this method, doubt I will try beyond that.

mdi
02-09-2014, 12:42 PM
For any coating to stick to a metal, all traces of oil and dirt must be removed. All my cast bullets have been handled by me and my less than sterile hands, so to insure a good coating I cleaned the bullets thoroughly, one group in brake clean and one group in acetone. Bullets come equally clean with either cleanser, but acetone is cheaper than spray cans of non-chlorinated brake clean.

prickett
02-09-2014, 01:29 PM
I PC so I never have to deal with acetone again :-)

Luckily, my HF red works without any cleaning needed.

Beagle333
02-09-2014, 04:27 PM
I haven't cleaned any. I handle them when measuring and sorting different ones that I have cast that day, and again when I take a bag of em to show my friends (or soldier some of them for pictures to put up for "Lookie what I cast today"), and one more time when I stack them on the nuts on my tray before I spray em, and I'm getting a perfect coat every time.:-D

Roosters
02-09-2014, 11:45 PM
Walter I cast these and dropped them on a dry folded T shirt, let them cool then washed my hands before I touched them to put in the bowl. That might be the key to not having to use paint thinner or acetone.

http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r600/threescrew3/008_zpsc75fc354.jpg

I posted in this thread step by step if you are interested. Post # 167
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?220672-dry-tumble-powder-coating/page9

mdi
02-10-2014, 02:36 PM
Another bit of info I discovered yesterday; I sprayed the alum. foil with dry graphite lubricant (Cat spray boom, outrigger spray). Bullets did not stick after coating/cooking...