converting mauser floor to lever opening

[nekshot]

My first attempt to switch floor plate on military to a lever opening failed. I am starting to do it again and gonna take a differant approach to the latch/lock system. Then it dawned on me I bet some of you fellas did it and would not mind sharing how you did it and specifically how the lever stays closed and when you use what did you do so it does not rub and scratch bluing on floor bottom? Thanks to all
after I make this succesful I will make the floor plate swing to open

[Uncle Grinch]

I've got a Mauser bottom metal in my parts box that has the lever. Let me know if you are interested.

[seaboltm]

Go over to the guys at Mauser Central. A guy there named Don Markey wrote an article with pictures. I have done business with Don in the past. He is a great guy and will help you any way he can.

[str8shot426]

I Tried this once years ago. I never got to the lever part of the project. I can suggest soldering or brazing the hinge block to the floor plate. I tried to weld mine and failed, too hot! Live and learn.

[UBER7MM]

Nekshot,

I bought a lever release kit for a Mauser about 16 years ago. As I recall, the kit was a bit expensive, and one could make the bits one's self with the minimum of tools. It's a lot of work to upgrade something that isn't broken, but can be done. Mine didn't have a the hinged trigger guard, which makes the conversion into the realm of customization. (Without the hinge, the floor plate drops in your hand as well as any cartridges in the magazine. With a little practice, you'll learn not to drop any.)
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One point to mention: You'll need a create a keeper pin under the lever, to keep the lever from opening unwantedly, like in heavy brush.

96838
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The lever release really does upgrade one's bubba'd mil-rifle into a custom-sportizer rifle. Those little touches the can make a rifle into a keep sake and an heirloom.
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I have also installed the simple extended floorplate release button, which does the same thing and is a lot easier to install and about 1/4 the cost.
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http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/stock-forend-parts/stock-hardware/floor-plate-releases/extended-floorplate-release-for-mauser-prod10068.aspx?avs|Make_3=Mauser
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Just another option. However, they don't have that old world craftsman "cool" factor.
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I hope this helps.

[nekshot]

Yes that info helps. Now I want to make my own scope mounts kinda like the early mauser german sporters. This is a sickness, making things look old when you can buy new!

[odies dad]

If you dig through the archives on Mauser Central, you will find an article I wrote up on making a push button floor plate release.
I made mine on a drill press at first, so no special tools needed.
This is a button that will engage the recessed button on a standard military Mauser trigger guard.

[Old School Big Bore]

The process is in either Ormond or Baker's book, sorry but I don't recall which and they're in storage. It includes hinge & latch both. I was going to go through all that but decided to just buy a Mark X bottom which is the Oberndorf type and what I wanted anyway.

[UBER7MM]

If you dig through the archives on Mauser Central, you will find an article I wrote up on making a push button floor plate release.
I made mine on a drill press at first, so no special tools needed.
This is a button that will engage the recessed button on a standard military Mauser trigger guard.

I've installed one of those external button models too. They work well, but I prefer the extended internal button models better (see link from last post). Here's why: With the external button model, I was required to cut a slot in the floor plate lock, (The square piece of the floor plate) for a retaining pin to slide up and down in during the operation of disengaging the floor plate. When attempting to replace the floor plate into the trigger guard, if the retaining pin is not aligned in the slot the floor plate won't close properly. The retaining pin keeps the floor plate's latch from engaging. This is not a problem on the range in daylight, but it could pose a problem in a field situation.
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These external buttons is can also be purchase inexpensively. (under $10). The internal pin button model cannot rotate out of alignment. It is also the easiest of the three options I've encountered to install. Just a screw driver to remove the trigger guard and pin punch or small nail to remove the pin holding the internal spring tensioned internal button.
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One other thing to mention: Some of these old war horse have had the floor plates and or trigger guards bent or peened purposely to keep them from being removed. If this is the case, there is a lot of work to be done to get them to open and close freely. I've come across two so far, both from Russian capture rifles.

I hope this helps.

[UBER7MM]

While I'm on this subject, If you are interested in upgrading your trigger to a Thimney on a Mauser, there is yet one other modification that needs to made. The internal floorplate button needs to be cut down about an 1/8". It protrudes up through a hole on the top of the trigger guard when compressed. The top of the button will hit the extra large trigger assembly of a custom trigger. This will all become apparent the first time you try to open your floor plate with the new trigger.

Oh the fun never ends.......

[screamingjohnny]

I did a lever release for one of my rifles. I made the lever myself from 1018. I used a Dave Talley floorplate that had the hinge as part of the floor plate. I gained a lot of help from an old book by Jim Carmichel called Gunsmithing Tips and Projects. The book showed how to make both the hinge and the lever. Good Luck.

[gunshot98]

My Dad did some of these years ago. I'll see if i can find it and make some pics to post. He did several over the yrs. They work great. I wish i had gotten all his talent.