Just got my MiHec 452 230 HP mold today looking for advice.

[tayous1]

This is my first custom mold only other mold I own is a 452 230gr RN Six banger from Lee I learned a lot from it . So I want to know how does the brass mold differ from aluminum? Care, casting like to hear everything! Thanks

[tomme boy]

Get a hot plate. Preheat the mold a few times before you use it. Do not tighten the pins all the way. They like to run hot and fast. You will have to add a little tin to get good fill out on the HP.

[treadwm]

Let us know how you make out. That is a nice mold. Still kicking myself for missing the GB.

[captaint]

Getting the HP pins hot and keeping them hot is the route to success. If not, the boolits will stick to the HP pins - they won't drop. You MAY have to run your melt a little hotter then usual. However, don't run it any hotter than you have to. I don't like to exceed 725 or so. We do have to mainitain a brisk pace with the HP molds. Good luck. Let us know how things work out. Mike

[white eagle]

If you have penta pins you "MAY" have to smooth them out a bit so they don't grab in the cavity

[Beagle333]

I have found that if I moisten the end of a Qtip with sprue plate lube and just put a very light film of lube on the tips of the HP pins, it really helps the boolits to drop free, especially until the pins get to temp. :grin:

I have never had it to migrate to the cavities, if only put on the tips of the pins.

[Mal Paso]

I am right handed. I put the pins sticking out of the left side of the mold. After I cut the sprues I flip the mold over and gently tap on the ends of the pins with my rawhide mallet (6oz) to slide the pins out and the Boolits drop off.

Hotplate really helps.

I like to get some patina (oxidation) on the molds to keep alloy from sticking. Heat cycling after cleaning is the easiest way.

[tayous1]

Sorry it took so long to write back busy at work. I have the hot plate been using it with my Lee mold and noticed that was a lot easier to mold with the hot plate so I should like you all said stick with that. I guess I'll cast and see what problems I have take photos and report back. I hope I can get to it soon as I have not really had a day off of work past few weeks my new reloading bench came in so I'll have to put that up then start the casting.

[Wayne Smith]

Did you get it with the pins? If so when you put it together put a drop of oil on the threads when you put the pins together. I have a much older 200gr mould that got stiff - I pulled it apart and found rust in the threads.

[tayous1]

So went and did some casting with the mold today in my basement have photos of how they turned out. I used the petal pin as I wanted to see how they would turn out as advised I did place a little oil on the pins and it worked out great none of them stuck to the pins. Used my hot plate to heat the mold also as lead was melting.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/blackgrub0331/IMG_20140210_203411_608_zps18f2b59a.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blackgrub0331/media/IMG_20140210_203411_608_zps18f2b59a.jpg.html)

Photo above was of my first go at it as you can see I was having problems with the lines in the boolite last boolite was the best one I made close to 150 boolits on my first go around got 10 out of them that looked ok. Took photos and was about to run here and ask *** I'm I doing wrong? But I waited and did notice that the last ones made were the best ones. So I thought maybe the mold was not hot enough as I'm just guessing it is maybe 40 degs in my basement maybe less so I dumped all the reject back into the melting pot put it back up to high lead the lead melt.

As I was waiting I took the mold and placed it on the stove top on high and let it set for about 3 mins pulled it off and could notice the heat coming off it so I grabbed a little foil took it back into the basement with the hot mold and put the mold back on the single hot plate I had then made a house with the foil over the hot plate and mold to keep more heat in. Lead melted took the mold out of its hot plate house made my first cast.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/blackgrub0331/IMG_20140210_221256_334_zpsd298662f.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blackgrub0331/media/IMG_20140210_221256_334_zpsd298662f.jpg.html)

This is how they turned out this is 10 random boolites I picked up to weigh and take a photo of weight was from 223.9 Gr to 224.8 Gr made about 150 of them again and had 4 rejects that went back in the melting pot. Lead was scrap lead from mostly pistols and shotguns. I can't wait to see how well the petals expand also going to do a few of the HP see what one I like best. If you have any advice I'd like to hear it this is the first time I have casted in almost 2 years(Work to much). Thanks for the advice and help.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/blackgrub0331/IMG_20140210_221401_245_zpsbdf09e7b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blackgrub0331/media/IMG_20140210_221401_245_zpsbdf09e7b.jpg.html)

[Jupiter7]

My experience with MP brass is that they need/like to be run hot. As in hot mold and hot melt. Also seem to have a "break in cast". My first go round is usually not great. Second go it's on, just cast away. I've been giving mine a minor break in on my kitchen cooktop after a soap and water scrub I let them sit on ceramic/electric cooktop on low and then cool, oil and assemble and the another go on cooktop and cooldown. Then preheat on hot plate for about an hour before casting, this just for the initial cast. I usually pull them apart if I'm not gonna use them in the next few days and give them a scrub and oil to be stored. My mp 45 rcbs doesn't get that luxury, gets used too much....

[tayous1]

Did some of the HP today turned out great made 179 of them only 4 bad ones weight was from 214.6 gr to 219.0 gr on the 10 random boolites now to wait to lube size them or coat them and try them out!

[41mag]

Looks like your getting it down pretty well.

I have several of the MP molds and they are great. Once everything is up to temp I get carried away and usually end up pouring 12-15 pounds worth of which ever one I am using. Like the old saying goes, make hay while the sun shines, well I make boolits while the casting is right.

I have found that for the most part all of mine like to have the alloy in the 725 - 745 degree range using my PID, and I use a small hot plate that I set a mark on for the brass MP molds. Basically what I did was while the mold was sitting on top, I adjusted the temp up a little at a time, and waited till the thermostat light went off a couple of times, then I would pour. I repeated this until the first pour would be keepers then used a paint marker and put a stripe on the outside of the knob for future settings. Now I set the PID to 735, and turn the hotplate to the mark. Once the alloy is melted, and the thermostat has cycled a couple of times at this setting I start pouring. Usually I get keepers from the get go. I then just watch my sprue puddle and make a mental count of how long it takes to skin over before I clip and dump. If it is taking a bit longer with the particular mold I am using for the sprue to cool, or I get a frosted boolit, I back off the heat a little. The 735 setting is just about the middle of the road with my alloy for the MP's, so that is usually where I start.

I also am right handed, and set my pins so they stick out the right side when upright and on the left when I flip it to dump. I have only had one occasion where I needed to tap on the handles to get them to drop, but that was with casting a solid. Usually if everything is up to temp, it is simply a flip, open, and push the pins out with my gloved thumb, IF they don't slide out on their own.

Your in for some good casting with that mold. It will take you a few sessions to get it down pat, but once you do, your gonna be hooked on them.

You had better start saving now....:mrgreen:

[tayous1]

Looks like your getting it down pretty well.

I have several of the MP molds and they are great. Once everything is up to temp I get carried away and usually end up pouring 12-15 pounds worth of which ever one I am using. Like the old saying goes, make hay while the sun shines, well I make boolits while the casting is right.

I have found that for the most part all of mine like to have the alloy in the 725 - 745 degree range using my PID, and I use a small hot plate that I set a mark on for the brass MP molds. Basically what I did was while the mold was sitting on top, I adjusted the temp up a little at a time, and waited till the thermostat light went off a couple of times, then I would pour. I repeated this until the first pour would be keepers then used a paint marker and put a stripe on the outside of the knob for future settings. Now I set the PID to 735, and turn the hotplate to the mark. Once the alloy is melted, and the thermostat has cycled a couple of times at this setting I start pouring. Usually I get keepers from the get go. I then just watch my sprue puddle and make a mental count of how long it takes to skin over before I clip and dump. If it is taking a bit longer with the particular mold I am using for the sprue to cool, or I get a frosted boolit, I back off the heat a little. The 735 setting is just about the middle of the road with my alloy for the MP's, so that is usually where I start.

I also am right handed, and set my pins so they stick out the right side when upright and on the left when I flip it to dump. I have only had one occasion where I needed to tap on the handles to get them to drop, but that was with casting a solid. Usually if everything is up to temp, it is simply a flip, open, and push the pins out with my gloved thumb, IF they don't slide out on their own.

Your in for some good casting with that mold. It will take you a few sessions to get it down pat, but once you do, your gonna be hooked on them.

You had better start saving now....:mrgreen:

I have not had the chance to cast for the past two years as I have been waiting for this mold and did not want to waste anymore lead on the solid mold I have. I have been going to the range and cleaning up the lead in the back stop but after this cold leaves use here in the Dakotas going to build a grate to sift through all the dirt so only the lead and jacked lead is left I'm sure its going to be a lot faster then just picking through the back stop finding lose lead. It also helped I was given 250+ rounds of old shotgun shells that would not be safe to fire so been hacking the hulls up and taking the lead out most have been #4 or 00 buck.

I have maybe 100+ lbs of lead in ingots and a few jars filled with jacked lead that I'm going to melt down also.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/blackgrub0331/IMG_20140212_170642_193_zpsb8d8e20e.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blackgrub0331/media/IMG_20140212_170642_193_zpsb8d8e20e.jpg.html)

[CPL Lou]

The more times you cycle your mold, the better it will run.
Most molds just need to be used a few times before they 'settle in'.
I would NOT put any oil on the part of the HP pins that protrude into the mold cavity, until the lube burns off completely it will cause boolit defects.

CPL Lou