Using mp hp mold

[Finarfin]

I have the 9mm mp 359-125 in .357 4 cavity hp mold from mihec. I am using 30-1 with some extra hard cast boolits I don't need tossed in to harden it a little further and use them up. I had the pins on the right but discovered that when I flip it over I have to reach over to tap them and switched them to the other side. I have now used it more with them on the left than before, so it should be more broke in than it was the way I had it originally.

Upon switching, my boolits grew by 2-3 grains and have more finning. Should I switch it back, or will this even out in time? They also have longer dividing ridges now than before so I believe it just isn't closing all the way.

[kencha]

I don't know if this will help, but...

How did you switch the pins? By just taking the e-clips off, or by unscrewing the cross pins from the hp pins?

If the former, you could try loosening the cross pins, closing the mold, then re-snugging the cross pins.

[Dale53]

The cross pins should just barely be screwed in. This will allow them to "float" a bit and allow the mould to align itself properly.

I have several of the wonderful Mihec hollow point moulds and they work perfectly this way.

I do one other thing to help the bullets drop off the pins. I coat the pins (just the part that is in the bullets nose) with mould release (micro-fine graphite in alcohol). I hesitate just a bit to allow the bullet metal to solidify around the pins, then I open the mould and the bullets drop right off. Using the H&G #503, as an example, I can cast twenty pounds of finished bullets in less than two hours with a two cavity Mihec Cramer style mould. There will be very few rejects (and I am particular, too).

FWIW
Dale53

[Finarfin]

All I did was to remove the e-clips and pull the pins out and switch sides.

How do you loosen the cross pins? Pliers? There doesn't seem to be an allen or torx head in there.

[Down South]

All I did was to remove the e-clips and pull the pins out and switch sides.

How do you loosen the cross pins? Pliers? There doesn't seem to be an allen or torx head in there.
The one I have has Allen Head screws in it.
That mould takes a bit of breaking in. With it closed, can you see daylight through the mould halves?

[Beagle333]

They definitely should be loose. I screw mine in finger tight, then back out just enough that I can spin it either way with hardly any effort, and that will let it float (as mentioned above) and the blocks will close and it will make beautiful boolits!
If I screw em down tight, I also can see light through the blocks, and light means you'll get finning. 8-)
The lead will always seek the light!

[dragon813gt]

They will unscrew w/ the small Allen key you received w/ the mold. Do not use it on the sprue plate set screw. That screw is a different size even though the Allen key will fit. You will strip it in short order.