Scope slippage

[Goatwhiskers]

Need some ideas. Gun is a Sako in .300WSM, scope is slipping. Customer has put Gorilla Glue to hold it, but it's not working. Happens that this is something I haven't had to deal with, so could use some pointers. GW

[Bullshop Junior]

Wrap the scope with paper under the rings.

[Doc_Stihl]

Check the rings to make sure that they are making good contact first. If the scope is riding on high spots on the rings that won't help. Lap the rings to fit first.

[RickinTN]

Lap the rings if possible to make sure the scope has full contact with the rings then put a coating of powdered resin on the rings and install the scope. Brownells sells, or at least did sell the powdered resin for this purpose (and for fluxing lead, of all things). I think I remember pharmacies use the powdered resin as well but not sure for what. You may be able to pick up a small amount at your local pharmacy. I've seen many folks put a piece of paper between the rings and the scope and I've seen scope tubes dented because of it. The resin compacts and won't dent a tube. If anything will keep the scope from slipping the resin will.
Good luck,
Rick

[Junior1942]

Make sure the ring screw holes are tapped all the way through. One or more of the screws might not actually be tight against the scope/ring top.

[rking22]

All of the above about a good fit to the rings. Need as much contact as possiable. I have a Theoben air rifle with the gas ram. It is a scope destroyer due to the double motion of "spring gun" recoil and the gas ram is even faster. I tried everything , even resin (thanks Rick from many years ago) and nothing would hold the Burris in place for more than 50 shots. Got frustrated and decided to glue it in. While looking for the epoxy , I found a tube of "silllycone" glue and the engineer thought kicked in (calmed down too). The elastic properties of the silicone have held it for these past 15 years. Be sure you have it where you want it , this is "extreme" but should hold . Resin has worked for everything else and is easily removed. Another thought is a smaller scope :)

[Goatwhiskers]

The sillycone, the resin (which I have), and checking the screw holes are all things that I "knew" of but could not drag out of the peanut. You keep flipping the switch to make the little light bulb come on and it turns out the bulb is burnt out. Guess I'll have to replace it with one of those new-fangled flourescent types. Thanks a bunch. GW

This one's gonna be fun anyway. The thing has a very slender fluted barrel and has a rubber resonance reducer on it. The guy says the first shot goes where he wants it then the group opens up, wants me to try to cure it. I'll try, but he doesn't seem to understand that he really shouldn't shoot 5 shots in about 3 minutes with this cannon.

[plainsman456]

You can use powdered sugar if you do not have any rosin.

[B R Shooter]

Never put shims inside a scope ring. You reduce the inside diameter, and when you tighten down the scope, the scope tube will suffer. The resin is good, rings should always be lapped anyway. If the rings are coming together at the screws before it tightens to the scope, bed the rings. Use the scope coated with release agent, clean and rough the ring insides, and put epoxy such as JB Weld in both rings and place it all together, but leave a gap where the rings meet. The next day, clean everything up and you have a very perfect fit between the rings and scope.

Some target shooters, many in fact, always bed their rings. It makes a skin right, stress free fit.

[detox]

Other than the scope slipping problem, I bet the barrel is heating up and causing groups to shift. Some hunting rifles with pressure point on barrel are known for stringing shots when barrel heats up. Accurizing sometimes involves removing raised pad in stock and free floating the barrel.

[tomme boy]

I have used Liquid electrical tape. Brush it on the inside of the rings and let it sit for a few days. Never had one slip after this. And it comes in different colors if you really want. Make sure to clean up around the rings after you clamp them down. If this does not work, you are going to have to lap the rings. Or if you have enough room, put another ring on the base. Had to do that with a 444 Marlin in a Encore pistol.

[deltaenterprizes]

I line the inside of the rings with electrical tape and trim the excess so it is not visible, glue side on the rings.

[fouronesix]

Interesting techniques posted. But I've never had a scope slip- peashooters to really heavy recoilers.

I think one key is to use good rings. Another is to really clean the rings and scope tube with something like acetone. For some years now I've used a homemade 1" lapping bar to true the rings and help insure complete contact. I either use 220 or 320 grit lapping compound on the bar and lap in all directions but mostly rotation. That leaves a very finely roughened surface. Clean all that off with acetone and tighten down the rings like tightening down anything that needs even pressure.... a little at a time rotating though all the screws. I've been using blue Loctite instead of nail polish on all mounting screws for awhile now and have no complaints either way.

I would imagine the problem with slippage might also be related to the type of ring. I'm lost in the dark ages I guess and only use either old style wrap-over Weavers or the old style steel Redfield/Leupold/Burris type.

[waksupi]

Lap the rings if possible to make sure the scope has full contact with the rings then put a coating of powdered resin on the rings and install the scope. Brownells sells, or at least did sell the powdered resin for this purpose (and for fluxing lead, of all things). I think I remember pharmacies use the powdered resin as well but not sure for what. You may be able to pick up a small amount at your local pharmacy. I've seen many folks put a piece of paper between the rings and the scope and I've seen scope tubes dented because of it. The resin compacts and won't dent a tube. If anything will keep the scope from slipping the resin will.
Good luck,
Rick


The pine rosin is the way to go. You can find it at most sporting goods shops, they use it in baseball all the time, and a couple other sports. I also use it on the leather jaws in my vise to keep a good grip on things.

[scpaul]

I've got a Rem. Sportsman 78 (cheapened-up 700),they didn't make them long cause they shot too good. I tried 3-4 set/rings ,still did it. Now I think it was the heavy 3X9X56 Bushnell causing the problem. I finally used a couple of drops of clear fingernail polish inside the rings, fixed it. I later used nailpolish for locktight(I know it's spelled rong..copyrite infringements),but I learned the hard way to thin the polish unless you want the equivelant of extra-strength blue locktite. Paul

[B R Shooter]

Yes indeed! I keep a bottle of clear on the workbench all the time.