Boolite coating What is the best?

[tayous1]

I have been looking at the coating for boolites from Bayou and SNS also saw a youtube video about a guy who uses epoxy coating link at bottom of the page. I'd like to know what coating is best and best value. Bayou I know sell the coating and I guess I would need to know at $68+S&H for 1 liter how many boolites can it cover? Also has anyone used the epoxy coating in the video I also saw a post about a guy who used a spray epoxy to coat his boolits just sprayed it in a bucket until he got a small pool then added boolits said the spray cost him around $10 shipped from Amazon. Before I jump into this like to hear what you all have to say. Thanks






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiFxAPtx4c0

[JASON4X4]

i like to electrostatic powder coat. harbor freight powder paint is 1lb and just over $5. One jar will coat thousands of boolits. The gun is about $50 or you can use the tumble method.

[popper]

HF PC for rifle, HiTek for 40 & 9. Toss-up for the Magnums.

[prs]

I think there is a whole web category here at castboolits devoted to those techniques, those guys can tell ya for sure.

prs

[xacex]

I like E/S powder coat. But, I coat mostly H/P pistol boolits so it is easy, and quick.

[tayous1]

i like to electrostatic powder coat. harbor freight powder paint is 1lb and just over $5. One jar will coat thousands of boolits. The gun is about $50 or you can use the tumble method.

What do you mix with it to tumble? Thanks that stuff is cheap from Harbor freight

[jmort]

From what I have seen ES PC best over all. I'm going to try dry tumble PC. All methods really need a convection oven and after that "tools" are the same/similar except ES PC which needs a spray gun and a compressor and an "electric" bullet jig. You don't mix the PC with anything for dry tumble. Read some threads.

[tayous1]

From what I have seen ES PC best over all. I'm going to try dry tumble PC. All methods really need a convection oven and after that "tools" are the same/similar except ES PC which needs a spray gun and a compressor and an "electric" bullet jig. You don't mix the PC with anything for dry tumble. Read some threads.

Seems like dry tumble is hit of miss from what I read guess just buy the gun as it seems that you get the best coating with it.

[bangerjim]

The ES gun is "spot on" ever time.....once you get the hang of the operation, which is very simple. Anyone can do it. Coatings are excellent. Every time.

Dry tumble is a method that makes the powder stick as the boolits are rolled/tumbled around in a coolwhip container (best tub I have found due to it's plastic).

I use both methods but the ESPC is far superior to DT. Both have their place in our little habit.

Try the DT method......it only costs you an enjoyable desert topped with Coolwhip, a jar of HF powder, and a toaster oven....convection is the preferable one for complete cooking.

The HF gun is only around $50, depending on what coupons you have. Most people already have a compressor around the place anyway.

Go for it! Play around. And have fun!!!!!!!!! :drinks:

bangerjim :guntootsmiley:

[mpmarty]

Alox/Beeswax in a lubrisizer.

[smokesahoy]

Get the es gun if your just starting out. Don't mess with lubes. I'd spent nearly as much as the gun and 4 lbs on various oils and if I bought the wax it would have been as much. I'm of the opinion now that, everything considered, it would have been wiser to just get the gun from the get go. You also need an oven and compressor, if you don't already have these you need to factor that in to the total. It's so nice not dealing with lubes though I'd say it's worth it.

The compressor is something every man should have anyway though so you can't really apply it only to the bullet cost since it gets so much other use.

[prickett]

Alox/Beeswax in a lubrisizer.

You'd better be "hiding out in the hills" with a response like that in THIS section :-)

[prickett]

Seems like dry tumble is hit of miss from what I read guess just buy the gun as it seems that you get the best coating with it.

I'd start with dry tumble as it is the cheapest/easiest. All of the methods will require getting an oven, so that isn't a deciding factor (ok, you don't need one for Klass Kote - but that one's popularity never seemed to have taken off). Very few people have any problem with getting HF Red to work. So try it. If you are one of the unlucky few, then just buy an ES gun and you are good to go. Nothing wasted, except 2 minutes of your time.

[garym1a2]

I say best is define by what your goals are. As I am a high volumne USPSA shooter my goal of best is lots of 9mm and 40S&W fast. With the dry tumble I can tumble, dump and cook 500 40S&W or 700 9mm in 20 minutes. Coating twice I can average 750 of the 40 cal or over 1400 9mm per hour.
If I was using a ES gun I could not even stand them up that fast, let alone spray them and cook.

[Beagle333]

I have not yet determined "mileage" on my ES coating method. I have used 3 or 4 colors from some small (3 oz) bags I bought on Fleabay, but mainly HF red and I still have half of the first 1 lb jar I bought, after (easily) a couple thousand boolits coated.

I ordered 3 more pounds of red and 1 of black last night (all HF colors still at the sale price of $3.99/lb), so I should be set for the next 5-6 years! :grin:

[jmort]

"The compressor is something every man should have..."

At one time I would have agreed with that. Now that I don't have any tractors left, I don't need a compressor or air tools. Got rid of my compressors and air tools. Electric replacements for all of it including an electric impact wrench. For me less contraptions is better.

"If I was using a ES gun I could not even stand them up that fast, let alone spray them and cook"

This makes a whole lot of sense. KISS

[MacFan]

I use Harbor Freight's ES gun for 45acp pistol and 7.62x39 rifle. Works very well for both. Well worth the small investment to get set up.

Being diabetic I find eating Cool Whip until the containers are empty detrimental to my health. :wink:
I wonder how empty donut boxes would work?

[smokesahoy]

standing them up is a pain without a tray. i think i would only like doing that slightly more than i like dealing with lube. I have 10x10 test tube trays that little blood vials go in, and it takes less than a minute to plop them in the slots, flip it over and 100 bullets ready to roll.

oh, and it's a dry bullet when your done... that is so nice...

[prickett]

HF PC for rifle, HiTek for 40 & 9. Toss-up for the Magnums.

Hey popper, why do you choose HI-TEK over PC for pistol? Just curious.

I'm still splitting coatings between PC and HT for my pistol only because I have both. I like HT, but PC is simpler, so when HT runs out, I may opt for PC only.

[smokesahoy]

I think because he is trying to use up what he already has;)

[kbstenberg]

Pricket I tend to agree with popper on this. The tumbling with HT for me is easiest. Just through the bullets into a coffee can, spritz on a measured amount of liquid, tumble a few seconds, through on a mesh baking pan, let dry (no setting upright), bake. Thats it.
Smokesahoy you also have a reason to keep using it. I have only used 60 Milliliters of the liter can. For 10 batches of bullets (50 lbs) And I still have about 1/3 of the 60 ml. left. Kevin

[Beagle333]

I'm gonna try the HT as soon as that zombie green hits the market here. 8-)

[kryogen]

hi tek looks easier to me honestly. but I cant get it in canada for a reasonable price so I will try powdercoating.

[popper]

My 9 & 40 doesn't need HT so the HiTek works fine. Rifle alloy does so PC works best for me. I don't shoot magnums but fps & alloy requirements determine the coating to use.

[prickett]

hi tek looks easier to me honestly. but I cant get it in canada for a reasonable price so I will try powdercoating.

The problem I have with HT is having to mix up an appropriate amount. I typically either mix up too much for the number of boolits to coat or too little.

I suppose the solution is to mix up a huge batch (by huge I mean suitable for 2 or 3 thousand) that is slightly less than needed for all the boolits. Whatever boolits aren't coated can be kept for a future huge batch coating session.

I've found the "no measure" PC to be quicker and easier.

[prickett]

My 9 & 40 doesn't need HT so the HiTek works fine. Rifle alloy does so PC works best for me. I don't shoot magnums but fps & alloy requirements determine the coating to use.

Your first sentence confused me until I realized HT wasn't HiTek abbreviated, but was instead "heat treated". Makes perfect sense now!

[Moonman]

I only do HANDGUN LOADING,

I use HI-TEK (GOLD COLOR) 5 Color-1 Catalyst-7 Acetone Ratio.

Directions say 5/1/5 ratio, experiment with your ratios to find YOUR BEST RATIOS FOR ACETONE.

I add Acetone first, then Catalyst, then Shake, then Color, then SHAKE-SHAKE-SHAKE.

You can measure with TEASPOONS, TABLESPOONS OR 5 GALLON BUCKETS,

it doesn't matter, you use the same instrument unit of measure and ratios.

I SHAKE/SHAKE/SHAKE THE INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS BEFORE MIXING.

I added TWO BOOLITS to the color container to aid with the color mixing.

Mix proper ratio in a 20 ounce plastic COCA-COLA bottle (Acetone doesn't melt

the PET material plastic bottle). I mix TEASPOON AMOUNTS.

Shake/Shake/Shake again.

I use a COOL WHIP DAIRY TOPPING PLASTIC BOWL to shake and coat the Pills.

I cover the bottom of the bowl with projectiles, add mixture and shake.

With HI-TEK YOU ARE MORE TRYING TO "STAIN" THEM NOT "COAT" THEM.

Less is actually more in this case, the FIRST COAT you should see VERY LITTLE COLOR.

The consistent measurements and NOTES on YOUR OVEN TEMPS and BAKE TIMES COUNT.

I let the STAINED PROJECTILES DRY OVERNIGHT, then bake on WIRE TRAYS.

I use a BREVILLE "SMART" CONVECTION OVEN BVO800XL $250 at BED BATH BEYOND.

BAKE AT 390F FOR 10 MINUTES.

This oven has FANTASTIC HEAT CONTROL.

NEVER USE THE OVEN FOR "FOOD" AGAIN, and NEVER USE YOUR "KITCHEN OVEN"

DO THE ACETONE "WIPE TEST" AND "HAMMER SMASH TEST" WITH EACH COAT.

If the projectiles FAIL EITHER TEST, you can remelt and recast them.

KEEP NOTES OF "YOUR" SETUPS/COLORS/BAKE TIMES AND TEMPS, PLEASE.

I bought mt my COATINGS from Bayou Bullets, 1 liter is supposed to do

about 20,000 projectiles or so. Bayou will sell 1/2 Liters also.

This deal really works for me, NO LEADING, CLEAN BARRELS, NOT HAVING TO LUBE.

I think it's JUST GREAT STUFF for HANDGUNS. (I also shoot INDOORS).

[Beagle333]

Thanks for that post, Moonman! It's always good to see a procedure spelled out. :-D

[tayous1]

I say best is define by what your goals are. As I am a high volumne USPSA shooter my goal of best is lots of 9mm and 40S&W fast. With the dry tumble I can tumble, dump and cook 500 40S&W or 700 9mm in 20 minutes. Coating twice I can average 750 of the 40 cal or over 1400 9mm per hour.
If I was using a ES gun I could not even stand them up that fast, let alone spray them and cook.

So I get this right to tumble lube I clean the boolites dry them off then place in the cool-whip shake then bake? I guess I'm not getting how the powder sticks to the boolite?

Also this question is for anyone how well does this work with HP boolites? Does it just make them pretty much non expanding or do they expand after they are cured?

[Beagle333]

'See all these little ridges and grooves on the surface of a sized boolit? And also given the fact that it's a metal object many thousands of times bigger than the particles of powder, they just want to stick to it. In fact, it's difficult to get all of it off if I change my mine on the leftover ones when I tumble a couple too many.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/Picture006_zpsc6c8e85f.jpg

And for HPs, the coating is just some melted polyester, a one-thousandth of an inch thick coat of polyester. It does not contain the expansion of a lead boolit (even a HP) in any way. The purpose of it is to make the boolit slippery for its ride down the barrel, and it definitely does that.:wink:
You'll like it, give it a try! They are clean to handle, easy to load (no gumming up of your dies) and they look good while doing it. :-D

[Hang Fire]

So I get this right to tumble lube I clean the boolites dry them off then place in the cool-whip shake then bake? I guess I'm not getting how the powder sticks to the boolite?

Also this question is for anyone how well does this work with HP boolites? Does it just make them pretty much non expanding or do they expand after they are cured?

My first thoughts as to why the powder sticks to boolits. The tumbling around in plastic containers creates static electricity resulting in the boolits being negative and the powder positive.

[Beagle333]

Close! On the triboelectric series chart, lead is positive and polyester is negative.
http://www.siliconfareast.com/tribo_series.htm

[tayous1]

'See all these little ridges and grooves on the surface of a sized boolit? And also given the fact that it's a metal object many thousands of times bigger than the particles of powder, they just want to stick to it. In fact, it's difficult to get all of it off if I change my mine on the leftover ones when I tumble a couple too many.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/Picture006_zpsc6c8e85f.jpg

And for HPs, the coating is just some melted polyester, a one-thousandth of an inch thick coat of polyester. It does not contain the expansion of a lead boolit (even a HP) in any way. The purpose of it is to make the boolit slippery for its ride down the barrel, and it definitely does that.:wink:
You'll like it, give it a try! They are clean to handle, easy to load (no gumming up of your dies) and they look good while doing it. :-D

Thanks that helps a lot I'm going to go and buy some from Harbor Fright and see how it works on my boolits and if I read right you size the boolits before tumble? Also what do you mostly use to clean the book its with first? Thanks again

[Beagle333]

I size, tumble and bake, and size again after.
I do not clean them. I just drop them from the mold, sort them barehanded, size em, tumble em and pick them out of the powder with bare hands. I do dip my fingertips in some of the powder before I start to stand them on my foil-lined tray, so I don't wipe the powder off of the freshly tumbled boolits. 8-)

Everybody has their own method. Just try it for a while and your way will evolve from things you find work better than what you've read! :wink:

[prickett]

I coat, then size my .45's. I coat, coat, then size my 9mm's. I don't clean mine before hand.

[Mortonspoint]

Hi folks. New guy here and interested in coating rifle bullets for use in a 30-06 M1. Which specific Harbor Freight coating do I use? If I understand correctly is HF #93309 Red the stuff I need? I want to shake and bake. Or, could you direct me to the posts/threads that explain this all?

Thanks!

[Gremlin460]

I use Hi-Tek exclusively due to the fact that I am a pistol shooter...

I use red green blue gold black metallic/yellow metallic/bronze metallic/gold , which ever bottle that comes to hand.

I use it in 5-1-7 mix, 5 colour 1 hardner 7 acetone.
That is 50mls 10ml 70 mls for a total of 130 ml mixture..

I weigh out 200 128gn casts into a 4 litre plastic bucket, I squirt in 7mls of mixture and shake em for 10-15 seconds pour on to mesh and do next lot, normally 2-3K at a time.

See this link to a absolute easy way of measuring the coating out..

http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Gremlin460/media/VIDEO0020_zps0bf060e4.mp4.html?sort=3&o=14

130ml 50/10/70 totals 130ml, divided by 7ml per 200 casts is just on 5000 coated units.
as they are coated/sized/recoated I get 2500 finished units for 130ml.

500 ml of colour 100 ml of catalyst and 700ml acetone 1300ml total will give me 25,000 coated units.

This I figure is cheap enough to smile about.

Now if only I had that much Brass!

8000 in Gold/metallic look like this..
97307

[popper]

Mortonspoint - I've gotten good results in 30/30 no GC with the dry tumble (DT) method, ~ 1500 fps. I use the ESPC with HF red for the AR-308 GC ~2600. I do intend to try the 308 with the DT. Only difference is getting a good complete and even coating on the faster ones.