Anyone use a Lyman 55?

[Trinidad Bill]

I purchased one a couple of weeks ago hoping it would be more repeatable than my Lee Pro Powder measure, NOT.
Maybe I just do not know how to use it properly. The Lyman 55 is very well made, cast iron, steel, brass, very nicely constructed.

But I cannot get it to throw Unique worth a darn, +- .5-.6gr. My Lee is always within .1g and it is just made of plastic!

I am sure I just need to be schooled on its proper use.

[btroj]

I use mine for Small charges, anything under 12 or so grains, depending on the powder. Mine seems to do just fine.

I fill mine then throw 10 charges rapidly and put the powder back in the hopper. This settles the powder pretty well.

With the 3 slides I find that a wide, shallow cavity does better with flake powders than a narrow, deep cavity. Deep, narrow cavities lend themselves to bridging and uneven powder packing. I don't want the cavity less than 1/4 inch wide and have a tendency to go better than 1/2 inch most of the time.

[bullet maker 57]

Don't forget to use the knocker. Do everything the same every time.

[pworley1]

I have several and they all do a good job.

[alg3205]

I had a Lyman 55 given to me a few years ago. It didn't compare to my RCBS and Dillon measures. I passed the 55 on down the road to another friend, I guess you can call it regifting.

[Walter Laich]

use of knocker the same way each time is vital in getting identical powder charges.

[jetinteriorguy]

Also be sure if your using the medium measure that the small measure isn't screwed all the way in. If it is it can overlap the medium measure underneath and create a shelf that will trap some powder when inverted thus giving uneven measures of the amount your describing. It's also good to disassemble the rotors when new and make sure they move smoothly when adjusting, and also rub them thoroughly with some graphite and also thoroughly coat the inside surfaces of the powder measure as well. Then to help even more, rub down the bin with a dryer sheet to eliminate any unwanted static. When I first got mine it was a little inconsistent as well, and the fine measure was very difficult to adjust because there was a small burr inside that would catch. Once I smoothed that out and coated everything well with the graphite and eliminated any static it's the best powder measure I've ever had and is right on all the time.

[atr]

don't use the bottom adjustment, the big one ....use the middle adjustment slide

[Maven]

TB, The above suggestions are good ones: try them. You'll also have to experiment with the 3 adjustable slides. I.e., with some powders, flake for ex., and smaller charges, you may need to use only the 2 that are thumbscrew adjustable. With larger charges, especially with extruded powders, you'll need all 3. Btw, it's also a good idea to disassemble and clean all the slides if you get binding. Bullseye is notorious for this.

[Trinidad Bill]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I took it apart, cleaned everything, no graphite so I will get some. Without powder the measure feels smooth as silk. With powder it seem to hang as the slide close through rotation. Almost as if their are flakes of Unique being cut to finish the rotation. Since I am only working with 10gr of Unique I am only using the two smaller slides.

jetinteriorguy... good tip on the small slide holding powder if completely closed. I suspect that is some of my problem.

My Dillon drops Unique flawlessly. However I am working on rifle loads using a single stage. My goal is that if I need 10gr I would like to drop 10gr consistently rather 9.9 and trickle up.

[AZ-JIM]

I have 2 of them, and no complaints. They are very consistent and accurate. Ball powder meters the best, as in most measures, then flake and extruded. Bullseye meters well but Unique sometimes feels gummy as the flakes get caught in the slides. You should be able to throw charges within +/- 1-2 tenths. I dont think you can throw an even 10.0 every time unless its ball, but im too lazy to worry about it and too picky not to trickle it to exactly where I want it. Consistency is the key as said previously. I dont use the knocker but the way you throw the handle makes a difference.

az-jim

[btroj]

I don't use the knocker either. How you move the handle is more important. Is it smooth and a tap at the top or fast with a bang? Keep it consistent and the charges will stay close.

[Green Frog]

Trinidad Bill,

The Lyman #55 and the #5 before it and the #1 before it all work the same way, and the fact that adaptations of the system have been around (and selling nicely, thank you very much!) for about 120 years or so suggests that it does work and work well. The big thing about these measures is that the user must develop a technique for himself that works well and use it consistently. I like a smooth sweep up to the stop with my handle, then after a brief pause, a smooth sweep down, followed by a double tap with the "knocker." If I feel any significant hitch in the movements of the handle, I generally dump that powder back and try again. I don't use Unique that often these days, but if you aren't staying within a couple of tenths of a grain, you aren't getting all out of your 55 that is there for you. You might want to "practice" with it a bit, filling cases say 10-20 at a time, then weighing their charges to see how you're doing and dumping them back in the hopper until you begin to see the consistency you seek. Stick with it... like I said, they wouldn't have lasted this long if they didn't work! ;)

Froggie

PS This comes from a guy who owns and uses a #1, 5, 5M, 6, and about 4 #55s. It's not just idle speculation! 8-)

[dbosman]

Technique, technique, technique, and consistency.
On any powder measure, keep the cavity down, not up, in between cases. Otherwise powder can settle or pack into it.

[Wayne Smith]

Unique is also prone to binding in the drop chute. That's why I only use my B&M for Unique. I can see the measure and how full it is.

[Trinidad Bill]

Unique is also prone to binding in the drop chute. That's why I only use my B&M for Unique. I can see the measure and how full it is.

This exactly what I am seeing, great adjective, "binding", every throw is binding! BTW I weigh every charge that I put in the case. I am working up loads for my 38-55 and do not want powder to be a variable. At least not yet.

I will keep working with the Lyman 55. As Green Frog said, the Lyman 55 and its predecessors have been around for a long time. It would not still be here if it did not work.

[Crash_Corrigan]

I do a lot of single stage reloading in loading block. I love this powder measure. Very fast and also accurate even with Unique. However W 231 is much easier to use as it is a ball powder. In either case I love having it and I use it with confidence after I throw the first 10 loadings and reweigh them just to check on myself.

I is going to such to not be able to throw black powder charges with it. I have a brass BP powder measure but it is difficult to calibrate quickly. Once set up it is the bomb for BP. I shoot a 50-90 Sharps and it can and does thrown any charge I need up to 103 grains very consistently.

[Larry Gibson]

Been using the #55 for 40+ years, have 2 now. I have tried many others and always find the #55 to be the most accurate except with long kernel extruded powders like 4831.

As mentioned consistency is the key. With smaller charges of Unique (OPs problem) I also use just the middle slide. I throw the handle up to a solid stop, knock the knocker so it hits on the up and on the down 2 times with some powders, three times with others and even four times with larger charges of Varget/RL22, etc. I pull the handle down to a solid stop and hit the knocker once for an up and down knock. That all keeps the powder in the hopper settled. I add more powder when the hopper is 2/3 empty. Sounds a lot more complicated than it really is......actually it goes quite fast once you get the hang of it.

With larger charges I also keep the drum and slide opening as small as possible that allows a consistent fill. That makes a narrow scrap off between the drum and cylinder which makes for more uniform charges.

I have 2; one with the large funnel and one with the smaller funnel. Which I use depends on caliber of case mouth. I also have them in the 310 die adapter and locked into the Lyman stand which I easily C clamp onto the bench when I use them.

The Lyman #55s throw very accurate charges of smaller grained powders, even Varget, H4831SC and AA4350. I use the Lee for the longer gr extruded powders such as IMR4350 and H4831.

Larry Gibson

[MT Chambers]

Not so long ago, one of the magazines did a test of all the dif. powder measures and included some of the more pricey "Harrell" measures and the Lyman #55 came out on top.

[Trinidad Bill]

I read in another post/forum that the Lyman 55 is designed to "cut" the powder and that is how it achieves the accuracy of the powder drop.

Is this true? Do you feel the slide cutting the powder with every throw?

This is definitely what I feel with Unique.

[monadnock#5]

Yes, the 55 was designed to cut powder granules, especially stick powders. Trouble is, you can't cut powder and get a smooth throw. No way. That's why I don't drop stick powders with a 55, I do drop Unique though.

Static electricity is the bane of the 55. Especially where I live. Disrobing at the end of the day in a dark room can be really entertaining since I really like light shows. I took my 55 to work one day and demaged it on an industrial strength machine. My test powder was Unique. I got +/-0.05 accuracy easily. Once proven, I now prophylacticly hose my 55 with Static Guard aeresol. Every time I use it. After years and years of estrangement, I adore my 55's. Both of them.

I don't disassemble and clean every time. I gotta say though that if I use 3 different powders on successive sessions and then clean, there will be samples of each trapped in the mechanism. It's just the nature of the beast. Get yourself some throwaway solder brushes. They work great. I'm going to get some graphite to dip my brushes in for when I clean the next time.

[ROGER4314]

I have 2 Lyman 55's, 4 RCBS, two Dillon's and a Little Dandy. I like the 55's best of all. Like any other powder measure, they are very vulnerable to bumping and banging on the bench. I use mine on a separate table that is isolated from other work or vibration. I raise the lever, drop the little hammer on the front ONE time, then lower the lever to charge the case. I do the same thing the same way every time and the result is very consistent charge weights.

Are you sure your scale isn't being influenced by a fan or one of those new fluorescent bulbs in a lamp? I have a great scale that I've used for years but it goes bonkers around those new bulbs! A ceiling fan does the same thing.

Flash

[scpaul]

I bought a used one years ago, once I learned to use it; I think it's the best powder drop I've ever used. I've got 3 or 4 other brands/styles packed up because the old #55 just works. I did put 2 small deformations in the edge of the large backing washer to increase handle tension slightly.

[jcwit]

I have a Lyman 55, and used to use it. I now use a Lee PPM, with much better results.

So the Lyman is residing in the drawer along with a Hornady BR Lock & Load.

As always YMMV

[Boyscout]

I have one 55 set up for pistol and one for rifle. I bind only when I try to adjust while there is powder in the hopper. Sometimes I get on after only a few throws, sometimes it takes me forever. Once I get 5 good throws in a row, I'm good to go with a check every 20 or so charges.

[Patrick L]

My first measure was a #55, I got it used in 1986 and it was old then. I still have it and use it for single stage rifle. I have always found it accurate enough, within .2 of a grain even with stick powders. I do NOT use the knocker, rather I use a very consistent rhythm (I'm a music teacher by trade!) with a charge block full of cases.

Funny story, I had that measure for probably 10 years before I realized there were THREE sliding cavities. I always thought there were just the two! Didn't realize the whole drum slid out. The fact that I was using the full width of those two upper cavities may have contributed to the accuracy I always got. I don't know.

[Themoose]

I just picked up one that looked like new at a swap meet this weekend... I tried to use it last night with H-110.... It went from smooth as silk to can't hardly turn the rotor... I played with it for awhile and finally took it all apart, cleaned and found that the brass housing was scored...apparently the gap between the rotors and the housing was too big for the H-110 and it was getting caught...I put some graphite on it after cleaning it again and retried... same result with H-110... looked for parts from Lyman for the #55 and it is not listed... may have to call them, but for right now it will be used for larger powders like 4756.. no problems with it there... anyone have the same issue? How did you get it resolved?

TheMoose

[gwpercle]

I set the slides to create one deep cavity. The deep narrow cavity eliminates a lot of powder granule cutting. Make sure the top slide doesn't overlap or overhang the one below it. This causes inconsistency. Keep the powder level up , some say a baffel helps but I just keep the level at least above 1/3 full. My method is to tap the handle against the upper stop 3 times to fill the cavity, then make a smooth swing down with the handle to the lower stop and tap it 3 times to drop the powder and settle the powder in the reservoir above. If something doesn't feel right I dump the powder back into the hopper , make sure the case is empty and do it again.
A shallow wide cavity just adds to inconsistent charges, deep and narrow as possible is the way to go.
Gary