What Kind of Lathe for Making Swage Dies

[Cane_man]

well i think some of you guys know i am looking for a new lathe... my little 7x12 400W Chicom lathe keeps me in the game but it has its limitations... the bore is only 5/8" and threading is problematic with anything larger than 1/4-20, and it doesn't have enough power to drill once you get past about 3/8", and the tool post flexes some on larger cuts/diameters, and ......

I really want to find is a nice older lathe in good condition that won't take up half the garage and doesn't need 220V... seems like this limits me to a swing < 12" or so... so what can i do with a lathe in the range of 9"-12" swing, 20"-36" bed, 1/2Hp - 3/4Hp that runs on 110V, something like a used SB, Logan, Leblond, Atlas, or Craftsman?

What type of lathe do you recommend?

[wv109323]

I think any that you mentioned would be fine. I don't know of any Leblond that small. Far more important than brand is the wear on the machine and the amount of attachments that comes with it. You may be able to use E-bay as a reference for pricing and what type of attachments that are on the market.

[kopperl]

Not a belt drive Chinese. Had a 9x20 and have a 12x36. Just don't have the power drill or take a .020 cut.

[GRUMPA]

I just got a Logan model 210 lathe that also does threads. I've had it less than a week so as far as what it can do I can't really say just yet. I'm still looking for inserts and threading tools and the like. But so far I've used it to make just a few things like pilots for my trimmers and a plunger for my Hydroforming. So far I've taken .015 cuts on what I have handy like big bolts and the like. I tried to cut something that appears to be a chromoly steel, very tough and when I tried to shave off .01 I had to quickly back off, didn't like to cut, maybe the insert is bad.

Living on solar I had to be able to use something 110v and used few amps. Strange thing is it draws 2amps on my system at 110v and the machine so far just doesn't lag on big cuts on semi-soft material. I'm sure once I figure out inserts and get new ones I'll see what the limits are.

[Cane_man]

check out this 15" Leblond this guys is asking $500 for it!!! probably 220V, take up half my garage, and need a tow truck to get it home but seems like a give away at that price just for the parts:

http://images.craigslist.org/00L0L_hWon92Zs2AO_600x450.jpg

[bangerjim]

Look for a 9x36" SouthBend toolroom lathe. I have one and do EVERYTHING on it!

With quick-change gears, I can power feed or thread in seconds without changing any friggin gears! Love it.

With HARD steel ways, it is from the late 60's and will out last my other HF "toy" lathe by decades more!

And with Aloris tooling, changing is a breeze.

I did put a 220v 3phase motor on it driven by an A/B VFD that has an input of 220 1p and gives 220 3p output for a 40-3800 rpm sipidle speed at almost FULL horsepower. Amazing!

Watch for a used one. I paid $650 complete with SB follow and steady rests, 6" 3 & 4 jaw chucks, tailstock 3 jaw, and a bunch of other stuff.

bangerjim

[bob208]

I have a 9" south bend. it has a 4' bed. runs on 110. I can take .060 off at a time. I also have a 14 1/2" southbend with a 8' bed. it can take a real cut.

that lebond is nice but short.

[cowboybart]

Where are you located?? I have a 12x36 Atlas

[customcutter]

Where are you located?? I have a 12x36 Atlas

CM is in California, not sure what part.

Cane, the Leblond is probably worth the $500, but in your case, probably too big, probably 3 phase 220V, may have to hire someone to deliver it. You will have to rewire your garage, and buy a phase converter. There doesn't appear to be any tooling, or tool post, other chucks etc.

Send me a PM with your Craigslist area. I'll try to help you look for something in your area. Like I said there are deals out there to be had, but you have to find them first, or they are snapped up. You might want to take a road trip to cowboybart's area. I drove to NC a couple of years ago to buy a mill that I thought was a bargain. It just needed the CNC package installation completed that someone else had started. I have more time than money. I've still got to finish wiring it for 3 phase, but called an electrician for a quote last week.[smilie=1:

[Cane_man]

Where are you located?? I have a 12x36 Atlas

hey bart, i am on California

[smokeywolf]

Hardinge toolroom lathe is of course, first choice. Although an HLV will be out of the question price wise, about 11 years ago I sold a Hardinge second operation lathe with a dozen or so 5C collets for $600.00.
Another smallish toolroom/engine lathe that I've always had confidence in is Clausing or Clausing-Colchester. Hendey lathes are extremely well built, although might be a little big for your space.
Although I've never liked the layout of the aprons on Southbends, their quality and durability are unquestionably among the best.

smokeywolf

[wonderwolf]

9" Southbend with a 42" bed is what I have. I've made all my reamers and dies on that....though they look good the R&D is still a lot of work to get a usable die set...of course it might just be the operator.

[sprinkintime]

I'm using a 9" southbend with a 4ft bed, I have made the .224, .308,and 45's the only difference is I'm using a 5C collet attachment since a small Southbend only uses small collets like a 3s. A little slower than a 12" but will do the job. Sprink

[wonderwolf]

I'm using a 9" southbend with a 4ft bed, I have made the .224, .308,and 45's the only difference is I'm using a 5C collet attachment since a small Southbend only uses small collets like a 3s. A little slower than a 12" but will do the job. Sprink

That is the only bad thing about my lathe and the 3C, my next one will take the 5C....be REALLY nice and be able to handle bigger work.

[FWest]

http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1027.html

[Cane_man]

^^^ nice!

does it come out of the same chinese factory as most lathes today or is it made in the USA?

[clodhopper]

That is real nice, when it is in stock it will probably cost more.

[Randy C]

Its amazing how much some things have gone up in value over the years, old lathes at one time were plenty full and they did not cost very much, now days it like buying a classic car. Supply and demand I guess. I keep thinking I want one but I don't have time to use all the toys I have now.

[cowboybart]

I and the lathe are in WY. My truck can not go into Kalifornia anymore, so you would have to come here.
Atlas 12”x36” metal lathe. 3 & 4 jaw chucks, steady rest, standard tool post holder, misc tooling. $1400

It uses 120v and is belt drive. I forget the HP and can get pix if you want. It will fit in the back of a P/U or SUV for transportation. Guessing 350lbs

I trade for belly dump trailers or old heavy equipment or a tandem axle converter dolly...

[Cane_man]

^^^ dang! My son was going to UWyo and he had his truck with him, he could have brought it home with him... he might go back in the Fall but not sure right now

[smokeywolf]

Randy C. you're right about supply and demand with regard to old American made machine tools. Production of manual "toolroom lathes" is nowhere near what it was up until the advent of CNC. And, the toolroom lathes are the most size appropriate and versatile for the home shop machinist. Also, as people have discovered the lack of rigidity and durability of the Chinese made machinery as compared with that of the old American made stuff, I think more of the old American made iron is being passed down to family and friends instead of going into the classified ads.

One other thing I might add is, I've spent a lot of time leaning over Takisawa and WEBB lathes. If you're going to buy machinery made in Asia, I'd look for Taiwanese or Korean as apposed to Chinese (ROC).

smokeywolf

[sprinkintime]

It looks a little lite weight to me, and there is no collet attachments, which is really nice in doing die work. Sprink


http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1027.html

[FWest]

^^^ nice!

does it come out of the same chinese factory as most lathes today or is it made in the USA?

Taiwan I believe. Check out that web site. They have a few different models and from what I hear the owner stands behind them very well.

I have an old Logan and am looking at the model I posted.

[Randy C]

There's a local machine shop in pristine shape close by I was told the owner has cancer and his wife will be selling it but I think they want to sell it as a hole, I've lost to many friends and family to Cancer. I will be checking to see how his health is this summer and I've said my prayers for them.

[cwheel]

It looks to me that the single biggest limiting factor to you is the lack of 220 volt power. You could have many choices of lathes that would do the job if you could get 220 volts to your shop, lots more options. When I was looking 30 years ago, my preference was for something in the 13-14" swing range with 40" between centers. Lots of worn out American lathes out there, and the few good ones often sell at twice what they are worth. Another question you will find yourself asking at some point will be, if you don't mind rebuilding the American lathe or mill that you got for a good price, but now find you have to rebuild it to make it reasonably usable. 5C collets are a big deal, and with most setups need at least a 1 3/8" spindle bore for the drawbar. Usually finding a lathe with a 1 3/8"+ spindle bore gets you into a 220 volt machine. ( sometimes 3 phase power as well ) Getting a 3 and 4 jaw chuck with whatever you buy is a must have. If I was looking for one and only had 110 volt available, I'd try for a Myford with a quick change first, then South Bend, Logan etc. Most of the American iron you will be worn out to the point of needing the ways ground and the dovetails refitted. Good American tool room lathes are indeed hard to come by. Many of the machines made during WW2 stayed in production well past their useful life because in America, shop owners were reluctant to retool unless absolutely necessary, didn't have many incentives to do so and up production. Of course shop owners would rather pocket this money if given a choice. Along came CNC and forced this issue in most cases. Manufacturing jobs moved to Asia also didn't help machine tool manufactures stay in business, and they were taken over by Asian companies. Point of saying this is finding modern American machine tools out there suitable for your uses will be almost imposable, after 1975, most were out of business.
Chris

[MaLar]

If you get an older one get one with the quick change gear box. I have a 1923 11" X 5' bed SB and it works well.
LaMar

[wonderwolf]

As far as size goes, I've been watching Youtube lessons from "tublecain" I think his name is on how to run a lathe (he taught shop class for a good number of years at a school) and he reminds us the #1 rule in machining anything....Rigidity Rigidity Rigidity.....can't do anything well if your machine flexes, moves about or your work isn't staying put. Big heavy lathes dampen vibrations and have the mass in both tool holding and work holding to keep your project on track.

[Cane_man]

that is one of the problems i am finding is that most 110V are smaller spindle bore, would like at least 1" bore

[teddyblu]

Cane Man
buy once cry once. here is a lathe that will take you thru die work to rebarreling,chambering, and other gunsmithing work. seems pricey but more than half the price is in tooling. Rockwell is a well known and respected lathe for this kind of applications. there are pictures available, I was able to bring them up and view them yesterday. if you can get the pics you will water at the mouth. I would love to have it but it wont fit the shop with the three different lathes I have.
http://benchrest.com/class/index.php?a=5&b=193

[deltaenterprizes]

Cane Man
buy once cry once. here is a lathe that will take you thru die work to rebarreling,chambering, and other gunsmithing work. seems pricey but more than half the price is in tooling. Rockwell is a well known and respected lathe for this kind of applications. there are pictures available, I was able to bring them up and view them yesterday. if you can get the pics you will water at the mouth. I would love to have it but it wont fit the shop with the three different lathes I have.
http://benchrest.com/class/index.php?a=5&b=193

I don't see a price

[sprinkintime]

$3350.

[Cane_man]

teddy that is a nice looking lathe but out of my price range, thanks anyway

[W.R.Buchanan]

Cane Man: I have little to add to the above discussion as far as what you should be looking for. Any of the brands you mentioned with a QC gearbox and 3/4 jaw chucks and a decent Aloris or KDK style tool post are what you're looking for. However none of them are going to do heavy cuts or bigger threads over 16TPI very well, this requires at least 1 hp.

As far as 220 power goes, if you have an Electric Clothes Dryer outlet in your garage then you're good to go. If you get a bigger machine that requires 220 3phase power, it can be done with an electronic phase converter like an AC-Tec which is about $350. It can also be done with a simple 3 phase motor which has a higher HP output than the machine you want to run. I have ran all of my Hardinge Lathes and my Mills on one just like this for many years and it works just fine.

Remember,,,, I the world of machine tools,,, Bigger is better! Jumping all the way from a 1/2hp machine to a 3/4hp machine is not going to get you very much as far as increased capabilities. 1hp should be the absolute minimum. Also the larger the machine the more rigid it is going to be, and as a result the easier it will be to generate acceptable finishes. Using sand paper to finish your part is not the best way to go about it. The machine should generate an acceptable finish by itself. I would also recommend a machine that has a spindle that takes 5C collets since they are by for the most common and easiest to find in the used tool world.

As a side note: For all of you guys that have machines that take 3C or B&S style collets,,,Hardinge makes virtually every single collet known to man and they are the best there is. Their catalog has literally hundreds of different types.

A decent 13/40-15/40 sized lathe is going to be 3-5hp and will be about the minimum to do any meaningful good quality work without fighting the machine constantly. Also the resale $ will be higher when you get done with it.

The machine you are used to using is so far down the food chain that using a larger machine will be night and day difference. However you still need to actually learn how to use the machine and do different operations effectively and predictably. Otherwise you will be making a lot of scrap and will get discouraged. Lots of info out there on operating machine tools but a class at your local Community College is probably the best place to start.

Hands on with supervision is always the best way to learn a skill.

As far as finding one? you live in CA,,, if it is SoCal like the greater LA area then there are probably 20 decent machines available within 20 miles of your house within your price range. Prices are down right now due the FU Obama Economy so now is a good time to buy something. I don't believe the talk about a shortage of entry level machine tools for one second, I see too many just laying around collecting dust in garages in my own travels, and once you put the word out among your friends you will find something that suits you for what you want to pay.

Do keep in mind,,, That if you accept something that looks dirty and cheap that you will probably have to completely disassemble it to clean all the dirt out and replace any broken parts. Might be a better idea to pay a little more and get a lot more in a machine that is fully operational from the get go. That LeBlond lathe in the picture above would be an excellent machine,,, IF,,, it was completely disassembled painted and all broken or worn parts were replaced. Possibly the bed reground as well since machines like that tend to be very 'Used",,, in other words completely rebuilt. This would take me about 1 month to do right, YMMV.

Look on Craig's List, the Auto Trader, local newspapers, and ask all of your friends to keep an eye out.

As far as tooling, collets and such watch Reliable Tool on Ebay or just go to their website. They are located in El Monte CA.

Hope some of this helps you realize your dream.

Randy

[Cane_man]

thanks for the info Randy, i would want a machine that could thread 7/8-14, without the tool post flexing and stopping the motor :)

i live 2 hours north of LA but am willing to drive for the right machine... seems like all the decent lathes are down in that area as i have been looking at CL for a few weeks.

CC found a nice but older SB 9A 3-1/2' bed out near Hemet, quick change gear, 110V... haggling on the price but not sure yet if the deal will go through...

great insights this gives me more to think about for sure... not in a hurry as half the fun is looking for the lathe...

[smokeywolf]

Randy, I wondered when you'd chime in. I too use my 220 single phase dryer outlet to power my rotary phase converter and in turn my Bridgeport and Webb/Mori Seiki 17/25 - 40 engine lathe.

smokeywolf

[W.R.Buchanan]

Smokey: Nice lathe! I'd love to have a Mori Seki engine lathe. They are arguably the best engine lathe ever made. Certainly the best made since 1975. I have a buddy that has the Webb copy just like yours. He won't let me or anyone else run it but him. Very protective!

Little more of a commitment than I think Cane Man is ready for.

Randy

[smokeywolf]

It's a wonderful machine. It does have good mass; about 5700 pounds. I still have two things to add to it; DRO and a taper attachment. Right now, if I need to generate a taper it's either the compound or shift the tailstock off center. My DRO right now consists of a Trav-A-Dial on the carriage and the graduations on the cross-slide hand wheel's micrometer collar.
It's other attribute which is helpful is, next to the old Hendey gear head lathe that I used to run at MGM, the WEBB might be the quietest engine lathe I've run. Being that I'm sometimes machining at midnight, I don't have to worry about disturbing the neighbors or my own household.

smokeywolf

[Cane_man]

almost bought a Logan 830 today for $750, good price in my market... really good shape with little tooling but it was 1/2hp and 3/4" hole thru the spindle and a little too large for what i was looking for... i will keep looking

edit: may buy it this weekend, hole thru spindle is 1.5", quick change gear box, pretty clean for a 1950s era lathe

[Cane_man]

Logan 830 11x42

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac331/johnelway/00q0q_3su8xlENZZm_600x450_zpseb8cc4d8.jpg

edit: there was a broken gear not known when the lathe was posted on CL, of course its the only gear i need for the 14 threads per inch gear! made me feel that there were probably other issues not yet known so i passed

looking at a Logan 210 right now that is super clean, no quick change gears but i am wondering if that is really a big deal or not?

[W.R.Buchanan]

Yes it is a big deal. You want a QC lathe. messing with change gears gets old real fast and that's if you actually get all the Change Gears in the deal.

As I said in my earlier post, you can pretty much resign yourself to completely disassembling and reassembling any older machine you get, unless it looks really nice to begin with.(as in someone else already took it apart and re painted it.) That Logan in the pic above would clean up into a nice garage type machine. The broken gear is not the end of the world either. It might take a little Google work to find one but I'm sure they are out there. If worse came to worse there are other gears available that could be modified easily to do the same job.

The problem we run into here on this forum when advising people on which machines are best for their intended uses, is we as machinists (the Advisors) have very deeply seated ideas of what we want in a machine tool, based on experience. This may or may not be attainable or even desirable to the individual(the advisee) who is just starting out and wants to learn machine work in his garage.

This is why I always recommend a College Course in machine tool operation first before spending money on something that won't do what you need. Once you get a feel for running a real machine then the idea of having a small machine will go out the window unless all you want to do is small projects. I know a guy who builds his own Model Airplane engines on a 8" German Combo Machine, and he is a world champion. I also know that if he lived in a house with a garage instead of an apartment he'd have a proper lathe and milling machine.

I know another guy who makes microscopic Model Airplane engines that run on CO2 and power little indoor airplanes with wingspans down to 6" or even less. Needless to say the biggest parts he is making are in the 1/4" range, and he uses a Levin lathe which with all the tooling he has would set you back $15 grand, and that doesn't even include the Microscope you need to see what you are doing.

His little engines are Jewelry!

For what you want to do,,, IE making swaging dies, you will need at least a 1HP machine and 3HP would be better, simply because of the threading. A 7/8-14 thread is a fairly decent sized thread, and as the cuts get deeper the HP requirements increase. Having higher HP available means that the spindle speed stays the same thruout the cut,( constant torque) as opposed to being dragged down by the cut. This produces a better finish on your threads. Also a larger machine is going to be more ridgid which also will aid in generating better finishes.

Another way to go would be to make your dies out of pre-threaded stock in which case any of the smaller machines could do the rest of the work.

The actual size difference between the smaller machine and the larger one is not that much when you consider it. But the way the machine works is way different.

In machine tool land "bigger is better," and that's pretty much all there is to it. Still within your price range, a machine similar to the Logan shown above would do the job. You just have to find one that you can live with.

Randy

[smokeywolf]

First lathe I ever laid my hands on was a 17 x 57 Cincinnati Hydrashift. It seemed like a monster, until I had to rough some 4 inch dia. stainless down to 3 inch. Which was done on a circa 1937, 19 x 80 Lodge & Shipley. Overhead chain fall for changing chucks, steady rest or follow rest.

Like Randy says, horsepower, mass and rigidity are your best friends. Also, I can't imagine not being able to use 5C collets. Also, when single pointing a thread, even the smallest amount of chatter will destroy the cutting edge of your toolbit and show on the finish of your threads.

smokeywolf

[customcutter]

Cane,

I would check out this lathe. I thought it was bigger when I first saw it, but I think it might be a 10-12" machine 120/220v. Definitely, heavier than the other Logan (this one is a Logan) and with a QC gearbox. Doesn't say anything about any extra tooling or chucks.

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/4311139177.html

Here is a link to a PDF with info on their lathes.

http://www.sterlingmachinery.com/db-files/logan%20lathes%20brochure.pdf

A quick google search indicated a users group and Logan is still supporting with parts.

Been listed a while so price should be negotiable.

[257]

I had a 9 inch south bend, I got tired of the small headstock hole real fast I payed 1250.00 for it with just about any thing you could get for it sold it in 2004 for 1500.00 took about 3 days to sell it I bought a used 1 owner south bend heavy 10 with a 40 inches between centers flame hardened bed with a truck load of acceceresys it had a 2hp single ph you could wire 110 or 220 the cost was 4700.00 seemed quite high at the time but if I had to buy it again I would as far as heavy cut I can take .375 cut in 4140/d1/a1/a2/the secret to that is speed and feed rate I use coolant on some materal. the number one killer of tooling is heat or inproper angles on your cutters. another thing is a lathe with 1.375 headstock hole will take 5 c collets I use collets much more than chucks just my 2 cents worth

[W.R.Buchanan]

custom cutter: unfortunately the lathe on Craig's list is a turret lathe, and not really what the guy needs. The extra time he would need to learn how to set it up would be better spent learning on an Engine Lathe first.

Since the parts are available I'd go back to looking at that older Logan he passed up earlier. With a teardown and paint job I think that machine would be what he needs.

I realize the idea of tearing a machine apart and painting it and replacing any broken or worn parts might be considered a daunting task, however for some one who is mechanically inclined enough to do engine work on cars it would be well within their skill set.

It also is the absolute best way to learn how the machine works, which will go miles towards learning how to run the thing. One other guy here bought a Craftsman Lathe to learn how to machine and he had to disassemble the complete machine since it had sat uncovered for many years and was literally full of dirt. He was able to, with the help of a manual, completely disassemble, clean, reassemble and is now running that machine in his garage.

All he had to work with was his desire to learn.

Randy

[dkf]

A nice Lathe in both size and ergonomics is a 1960s Clausing Colchester 13"x36" lathe. Yes it is 220V and 3phase but a rotary phase converter takes care of the 3 phase issue. The Clausing I mentioned has a 2 speed motor so it is not as easy as swapping out the motor for a single phase unit. I have a South Bend 9"x36", a Clausing 13x36 I mentioned, a Hardinge DV59 and a Milltronics 20"x40" CNC. Have used lathes of dozens of makes over the years. The Clausing is a nice industrial quality little lathe with hardened and ground ways. A lot of 9" South Bends you find now are showing a lot of wear due to age and were never very rigid machines to begin with. Honestly I was never a fan of any South Bend bend lathe despite using models of them from small to large of various model years.


It also is the absolute best way to learn how the machine works, which will go miles towards learning how to run the thing. One other guy here bought a Craftsman Lathe to learn how to machine and he had to disassemble the complete machine since it had sat uncovered for many years and was literally full of dirt. He was able to, with the help of a manual, completely disassemble, clean, reassemble and is now running that machine in his garage.

I realize the idea of tearing a machine apart and painting it and replacing any broken or worn parts might be considered a daunting task, however for some one who is mechanically inclined enough to do engine work on cars it would be well within their skill set.

IF you know what you are doing. Many people end up tearing apart a lathe, putting it back together and then end up having a lathe that cuts a taper, out of square and etc. Most people are better off just getting a lathe, having it leveled, tailstock aligned, change the fluids, a minor cleanup and done with.

[customcutter]

custom cutter: unfortunately the lathe on Craig's list is a turret lathe, and not really what the guy needs. The extra time he would need to learn how to set it up would be better spent learning on an Engine Lathe first.

Since the parts are available I'd go back to looking at that older Logan he passed up earlier. With a teardown and paint job I think that machine would be what he needs.

I realize the idea of tearing a machine apart and painting it and replacing any broken or worn parts might be considered a daunting task, however for some one who is mechanically inclined enough to do engine work on cars it would be well within their skill set.

It also is the absolute best way to learn how the machine works, which will go miles towards learning how to run the thing. One other guy here bought a Craftsman Lathe to learn how to machine and he had to disassemble the complete machine since it had sat uncovered for many years and was literally full of dirt. He was able to, with the help of a manual, completely disassemble, clean, reassemble and is now running that machine in his garage.

All he had to work with was his desire to learn.

Randy

Randy, thanks for the clarification. Like I've told everyone in several post previously, I'm not a machinist. I have a 14X40 Birmingham(Taiwan) lathe, a 6X28 (taiwan) mill (manual), a 9X42 Enco mill that is basically brand new that someone was converting to CNC and it sat for 10 years. I managed to get the ball screws finally mounted with no backlash, and all the steppers working with LinuxCNC. I'm presently trying to get it hooked up to a VFD for 3ph and spindle speed control, so that I can start learning to program and use it. I also have a 6X18 #2 Reid surface grinder. I've tried for 2-3 years to find a local class on machining. The closest one is a 60 mile drive one way, and they want about $5000 to attend. Kinda pricey and I don't have the time to drive 2+ hrs a day while running a business, wish I could find something local. I used to make custom knives and would make a pin for a folder or face off a piece of 416SS for a bolster or guard. Now I'm learning to cut threads, etc. but feeds and speeds is something I need to learn. I've thought about trying to hire a retired machinst to teach me some things on weekends?

thanks,
Ken

[smokeywolf]

customcutter, for not being a machinist, you're pretty well fixed for machinery.

For feeds and speeds, refer to a Machinery's Handbook or get yourself a handy-dandy Morse pocket sized "Machinist Practical Guide". In the little Morse pocket guide you can photo-copy and enlarge the page(s) that give feed and speed recommendations for drills and endmills in various materials and post it next to each machine.

One of these days, if I can justify it, I'll retrofit my Bridgeport for 2 axis NC.

smokeywolf

[Cane_man]

brought it home today, details to follow, tired after 9 hours on the road today! the owner turned out to be a retired machinist and the lathe was spotless, and was not in commercial use just for his home shop

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac331/johnelway/00x0x_e6AGcyO4jrd_600x450_zps4086f3d4.jpg

[customcutter]

brought it home today, details to follow, tired after 9 hours on the road today! the owner turned out to be a retired machinist and the lathe was spotless, and was not in commercial use just for his home shop

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac331/johnelway/00x0x_e6AGcyO4jrd_600x450_zps4086f3d4.jpg

Cane, that's great! A machinist would know how to take care of his equipment properly. Hopeully he had the manuals or you can get a set from someone. Were you able to get any tooling with it? 4jaw, 3jaw, steady rest. Remember no pics, it didn't happen!!!:kidding:

[dkf]

There are apps and software available these days you can use to help you calculate speeds and feeds. Some are for your computer and some are smartphones, PDAs and other types of portable devices. Don't be afraid to pick up some books on machining and read them. Sites like Enco have them. It is good to have a solid grasp on manual machining before jumping into cnc.


http://www.tradesmathcalculator.com/Speeds-And-Feeds.html

http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/there-are-apps-for-that-too
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/speed-feed-app-available-on-itunes

[Cane_man]

got the manual, will put up pics in my Logan 210 thread

[customcutter]

There are apps and software available these days you can use to help you calculate speeds and feeds. Some are for your computer and some are smartphones, PDAs and other types of portable devices. Don't be afraid to pick up some books on machining and read them. Sites like Enco have them. It is good to have a solid grasp on manual machining before jumping into cnc.


http://www.tradesmathcalculator.com/Speeds-And-Feeds.html

http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/there-are-apps-for-that-too
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/speed-feed-app-available-on-itunes

Looks like I've been burning up end mills by going to slow???? Rubbing instead of cutting??? thanks for the links, hopefully they are available on droids also. Too late to look for them now.

thanks,
CC

[JRPVT]

CC, nice looking lathe. It should do well for you. If you are near Tampa, MacDill AFB may still have machinists there. I spent many an evening making parts for gunsmiths near the bases I was at, MacDill having been one of them. If you know an airman, just ask. Its usually that easy.

[dkf]

Looks like I've been burning up end mills by going to slow???? Rubbing instead of cutting??? thanks for the links, hopefully they are available on droids also. Too late to look for them now.

thanks,
CC

Should be apps for Androids also, they are popular.

Keep in mind there are other factors that can limit your speed and feed other than cutter diameter, cutter speed and etc. Rigidity is a big factor in what feeds and speeds you can run without premature tool wear or failure. On smaller more hobby oriented lathes and mills you often have to be more conservative to keep acceptable tool life and prevent "chatter" due to lack of rigidity. Even large cnc machining centers are not immune to these issues.

[customcutter]

Smokeywolf, yes I wanted to have some toys to play with and make a few guns and parts with when I retire in a few more years. I stole the lathe and 2 5 gallon buckets of tooling, for $700 & a .40 highpoint pistol. The mill I got for $2700 with rotary phase converter, large vise, tooling, and 3 axis CNC that retailed for $4500 new. Just got to look for the deals and have cash in hand. I'm pretty well set now, just adding reamers, indicators, etc. I would like to have DRO on both but that can wait. Like I said most important thing is learning how to use them properly.

JRPVT, Thanks but the lathe belongs to Cane man. He is upgrading from a 7X12, so he's happier than a puppy with two peck??

My dads retired military, I'll have to ask him if they have a metal working shop. We were never able to get stationed at MacDill in 21 years of service.

dkf, yes I'm usually a little to conservative (Sometimes I make the tea party look like liberals, must be the Southern Baptist in me.) Once I get this mill wired up I think I'm going to add coolant to the lathe and the mill.

[smokeywolf]

CC, sounds like grand theft lathe and grand theft mill. I do love to hear of peers finding great deals as you did.
You got the NC retrofit I need and I ended up with the reamers you need. When I closed up the old MGM/Sony Machine Shop, part of my compensation for liquidating the assets in the 6,000 sq. ft. shop was tooling. Among that tooling was 300+ reamers. Including reamers inherited from my father and from another machinist who upon retiring, handed me a Kennedy chest full of endmills, drills, reamers and lathe (tool)bits, I probably have near 500 reamers.
Two of my sons are mechanically inclined, so I know my tools and tooling will be used and appreciated.

[Bogone]

Very good information you guys gave the gentleman buying his first lathe. I started 30 years ago with a 9 inch south bend, trade it off and got a 14x40 southbend, traded it off got a hardinge hlvh that I still have. Once bitten by the bug I didn't stop I know own a Fadal vmc, haas tool room mill, 10x50 acra knee mill, okuma cnc lathe and a 26x60 okuma engine lathe. If you need any help with advice on tooling I can help.