PID arrived

[dikman]

Got my new PID today - 9 days from Hong Kong, not bad (half of that was probably within Australia [smilie=b:). Nice set of instructions, minor problem, it's all in Chinese :lol:. Just as well I like a challenge!

[6bg6ga]

Turn over the instructions and maybe the other side is in english.

You will have it running in 5-10 minutes.

[JASON4X4]

Enjoy I love using mine.

[Walter Laich]

Might be a trans on website or google the brand/model number to see if that works.

You will love it!

[Frozone]

If It's a REX100 you can use the Auber instructions.
They sell a rebadged copy of that device.

Same with their single line display models, those are rebadged XLMs out of china.

[dikman]

Thanks guys. 6bg, the other side is also Chinese! There are a few English words scattered through it, and I reckon that once I find a set of instructions for another brand I should be able to work out the menus/operation. I suspect the basic operation is pretty much the same, regardless of make.

Besides, everyone knows that technicians don't read manuals!!

At the moment we're having our kitchen rebuilt, so that is the #1 priority, everything else is on the backburner for now. PID will have to wait a few more days.

[6bg6ga]

Thanks guys. 6bg, the other side is also Chinese! There are a few English words scattered through it, and I reckon that once I find a set of instructions for another brand I should be able to work out the menus/operation. I suspect the basic operation is pretty much the same, regardless of make.

Besides, everyone knows that technicians don't read manuals!!

At the moment we're having our kitchen rebuilt, so that is the #1 priority, everything else is on the backburner for now. PID will have to wait a few more days.

I was being sarcastic lol. As for reading the manual us technicians don't have time. We simply unbox an item play with it a few minutes to get it running and program it and leave.

Actually the Auber unit is probably on of the easiest units to program. I have a copy of my Auber instructions if you want them or I can direct you to an Auber site for a manual.

Remember...it needs at least one vacuum tube to make it run right.

[dikman]

Remember...it needs at least one vacuum tube to make it run right.

:lol: No worries, I've got room on the top for a valve base! What's that web address for the Auber manual? Might prove to be of some value.

[Roosters]

dikman real men don't read instructions till you have ruined the first two....... Even then you blame it on poor craftsmanship. :drinks:


Try this
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction%201.0.pdf

[6bg6ga]

dikman

Send me a PM

[Frozone]

rex100 manual in English: http://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf

[dikman]

Thanks guys, it all helps.

[6bg6ga]

I hope yours is a copy of the Auber. The Auber is much more user friendly than some of the cheap PIDs out there. I keep a Mypin on hand as a backup for the unit on my Mark IV because I have already had one failure of the PID on that machine.

[hermans]

dikman...be carefull if it is a Rex C100, the relay contacts is not where they say it is, also the rated output current is only 3 amps, if I recall correctly. I had to modify mine to make it work with a SSR, depending on what your use for the PID is going to be of course.
If you need any assistance with that just give me a shout!

[dikman]

No, it's not a Rex, it's an XMT800. I'm still waiting for the K probe and the SSR, but I powered up the PID itself today to see what would happen. While the words in the instructions are in Chinese, all the numbers are in English format. With the help of instructions for three other brands of PID, I managed to work out what some of the tables mean (as I thought, the basic operations and settings are all pretty similar). To access the setup tables a code must be entered for each table, fortunately these numbers are in English. I've left all the settings at their default values for now (K probe is the default).

It's proving to be an interesting little project.

[hermans]

dikman, I have seen two types of XMT's on eBay, 801 and 803. They sure look the part, do you know if your one can do the readings/settings in degrees Fahrnheit?

[dikman]

Hi hermans, looks like it's Centigrade only on this model (which is fine by me). They make several models, some of them bigger with a larger display. This appears to be the "base" model, as in Centigrade/SSR only, which is all I need. They also sent me a $5 voucher, maybe I should buy another one :lol: (don't need it, but this is fun!).

My $5.60 probe just arrived, I reckon I'll hook it up and stick it in some water and see what happens.

Hour or so later - sensor works ok (so far), sticking it into just boiled water indicates 97*C. Alarm 2 comes on as soon as it's powered up, alarm 1 comes on at around 80*C. Looks like a bit of fiddling with settings is in order.

[dikman]

My SSR finally arrived and I've put it all together (at last!). The case is one of those switch boxes used for printers (remember those? Big switch on the front and a couple of RS232 connectors on the back). I fitted new front and rear panels to cover the existing holes and it made for a very compact assembly (in other words, a tight fit!). The only problem I can see is that because the sensor is hard-wired to the PID I will have to remove the probe from the pot at the end of each session so that I can pack things away. (I don't have a permanent setup).

I've set the two alarm points, one at the melting point of lead and the other at 700*F (no particular reason why, just because I could). The final part of the puzzle was figuring out how to get it into "auto" mode so that it would auto-calibrate. Not being able to read Chinese is a definite handicap, but I eventually got it sorted (I was feeling quite pleased with myself at this point).

Now I just have to wait until I'm ready to cast a few more nice round balls.

9708597086

[6bg6ga]

My SSR finally arrived and I've put it all together (at last!). The case is one of those switch boxes used for printers (remember those? Big switch on the front and a couple of RS232 connectors on the back). I fitted new front and rear panels to cover the existing holes and it made for a very compact assembly (in other words, a tight fit!). The only problem I can see is that because the sensor is hard-wired to the PID I will have to remove the probe from the pot at the end of each session so that I can pack things away. (I don't have a permanent setup).

I've set the two alarm points, one at the melting point of lead and the other at 700*F (no particular reason why, just because I could). The final part of the puzzle was figuring out how to get it into "auto" mode so that it would auto-calibrate. Not being able to read Chinese is a definite handicap, but I eventually got it sorted (I was feeling quite pleased with myself at this point).

Now I just have to wait until I'm ready to cast a few more nice round balls.

9708597086

Its amazing what we can do when we DIY something. Mine has a computer power supply as a case.

I ran into the same thing as you and I purchased a connector so that I could simply disconnect it the probe and leave it with the pot or the sizer. Have several of them.

My solution was to buy several of the same model number /type probes.

If you don't want to install a connector how about a simple terminal strip on the back side of the box. This will allow a good electrical very low resistance connection

and allow you to remove the probe,

[leadman]

The pid should autotune itself in about 15 minutes of use. I have built 4 of these so far and have a couple more to build. The box I use is vented so I have had no problems with the SSR without a heatsink.
They do make a model of the REX 100 that is for a relay as noted on the output type on the sticker. It will not work with an SSR as I found out when the vendor sent me the wrong one.
Sure makes my ovens and pots work so much better. The weight of the boolits cast is much more consistent.

[Crosbyman]

Hold the sideways arrow button down until the AT/M light flashes; this is the autotune or "learn" mode. I would do this with the pot up to temperature and while casting so that the PID parameters will be stored that simulates your usage.

[dikman]

6bg, I had been thinking about getting a couple more probes anyhow, seeing that they're cheap enough, plus a spare SSR and another (cheap) PID to play with (the Rex-c100's are very cheap). The screw terminal's not a bad idea. Although I've found the probe plugs ok, a panel mount socket doesn't seem to be as easy to find.

Just had a thought - I wonder if a BNC plug/socket would work, as I have heaps of them. They have gold-plated connections and are positive locking, so will keep tension on the actual electrical contact area. More thinking required.

Thanks Crosbyman, that's what I'd figured out from the Chinese instructions.

[6bg6ga]

6bg, I had been thinking about getting a couple more probes anyhow, seeing that they're cheap enough, plus a spare SSR and another (cheap) PID to play with (the Rex-c100's are very cheap). The screw terminal's not a bad idea. Although I've found the probe plugs ok, a panel mount socket doesn't seem to be as easy to find.

Just had a thought - I wonder if a BNC plug/socket would work, as I have heaps of them. They have gold-plated connections and are positive locking, so will keep tension on the actual electrical contact area. More thinking required.

Thanks Crosbyman, that's what I'd figured out from the Chinese instructions.

The biggest problem would be resistance. Using a good quality BNC male and female should work fine. I currently use a speakon connector for my heater connection and have had plans now to do the same thing that you mentioned. I currently have the "correct plugs" but I question if they are any lower resistance than a BNC. The member that was just banned that sold the PIDs told me that the only connector to use was the correct plug. If there was any difference it would be extremely small and the PID would compensate for this upon running a cycle. One could also use a XLR male and female as that would be a good quality part as they are used as you know for microphone connections.

If you need something PM me and I'll ship it to you.

[dikman]

Thanks for the kind offer, 6bg, but I have all sorts of connectors in my "collection" of bits! XLR's I have, and would be good, but they are a bit on the large side. As for only using the "correct" connectors for probes, I can't help wondering about that. There's nothing special about them that I can see, in fact they look rather cheap and nasty when you compare them to quality connectors as used in audio/video equipment. As long as there is a solid, positive low-resistance join at the connection point then whatever is used should be fine (and screw connectors are generally pretty positive!). I suspect that those "correct" connectors are nothing more than a means of providing a standard type of connector for probes.

[6bg6ga]

Thanks for the kind offer, 6bg, but I have all sorts of connectors in my "collection" of bits! XLR's I have, and would be good, but they are a bit on the large side. As for only using the "correct" connectors for probes, I can't help wondering about that. There's nothing special about them that I can see, in fact they look rather cheap and nasty when you compare them to quality connectors as used in audio/video equipment. As long as there is a solid, positive low-resistance join at the connection point then whatever is used should be fine (and screw connectors are generally pretty positive!). I suspect that those "correct" connectors are nothing more than a means of providing a standard type of connector for probes.

The banned gentleman that used to make the PIDs stated that the correct connectors had to be used. Both you and I know for fact that a terminal strip, XLR, and BNC will work just fine. I could see a problem if there was a nasty resistance build up but there won't be. Generally if I'm going to use a terminal strip I use a good quality spade or ring terminal and crimp it with my K&B crimp tool and follow it up by soldering the end. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

[dikman]

Sure do. It was common practice to use crimp BNC connectors for video, and when I worked in the cable TV side (maintaining the network) I soon found out that the F-type connectors used in the industry were crimp too.

I converted my probe to BNC today. I found an insulated panel-mount socket (which was just the right size for the grommet hole I'd made) and fitted a BNC plug to the end of the probe cable (all soldered, of course). The plug was a bit fiddly to fit, but I got there in the end. As a bonus, while I was rummaging around looking for my BNC connectors I found a 25A SSR that I didn't know I had!!!

A test with boiling water showed that it was working ok, although it was reading about 5*C low (which it was before the mod). Now I just have to decipher the instructions to find the offset adjustment :roll:.

[6bg6ga]

I'll have to buy one of those Rex-100's to replace the Mypin that is on my MarkIV bullet caster. Unless I missunderstood the Rex is like the Auber of which I have several of. I'm glad you chose the Rex to try because in my opinion the Mypin is a piece of junk. I've already had to replace several of them already. I hope that others don't have the same problems with their Mypin units they purchased from the banned gentleman that was selling them.

Just out of curiosity did your probe have a shield on the wire and if so did you ground it?

[hermans]

dikman, I use these from Hobby King, the are very sturdy and the contacts are gold plated, and they come at a very reasonable price.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9572__Nylon_XT60_Connectors_Male_Female_5_pairs_ GENUINE.html

I solder nice thick flex wire on the female plug which I attach to the Rex 100 also by soldering them directly onto the PCB. Then I solder the very thin wires from the probe to the male plug. I compared the temp measured on the PID with my digital temperature meter, also using a K type probe, and the difference is less than one degree C.
Hope this helps

[dikman]

Hermans, nice looking connectors (especially for the price). I've bought helicopter stuff from them but didn't realise that they had those things. Might get some (they might come in useful one day).

6bg, my PID is an XMT, not Rex, although I think I'll get one to play with as they're pretty cheap. There is a shield around the probe wires, but it stops a couple of inches from the end and is sealed off with heat shrink, so I haven't touched it.

I found what looks like the temp. offset, so played around a bit today. I stuck the probe in boiling water and confirmed it was reading low, so I adjusted the offset and tried again. This time it read high, so I started decreasing the offset a bit at a time. By the time I had it back to 0.0 it was reading within 0.5*C of the boiling point!
Got me beat - the offset is back to where it was but now it's reading correct. Guess that's all that matters.

[dikman]

So, figured I should actually try this thing out at last. Got the Pro-melt working first, so that I could melt the lead in it so that I could stick the probe in (seemed like a good idea, that [smilie=1:). Once that was done, I plugged the pot into the PID thingy and waited for the temp to drop back (was reading over 750*F and I had the SV set for 700*F). When the SV = PV, I pressed the Auto-tune and sat back. Took about 5 mins, and then it sat happily at 700*F +/- 2*F!

Very impressive indeed :grin:.

I then cast about 300 .451 RB's and checked the case to see how warm it was - only slightly, in fact the area around the PID was warmer than where the SSR is mounted. I might drill a few holes in the case for ventilation, probably won't do any harm.

I've also ordered a Rex-C100 (relay output, but that doesn't matter) and 4" K-probe for about $17. For only $1 more I got a 750*F, short screw mount probe as well! I don't have a use for it, but for only $1.....

[a.squibload]

This might help:
C x 2 - 10% + 32 = F.
Easier to remember than the 9/5 or 5/9 formula.

[6bg6ga]

That is a more useful formula

[dikman]

Me being "mathematically challenged" as I am, I have a nifty little calculator that converts all sorts of things from metric to imperial and back again (including temp).

Bottom line is, life is good!

[a.squibload]

I'm challenged too, as in "where did I leave the calculator?".

[willieg871]

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SYL-1512A2instruction%201.0.pdf

[OuchHot!]

The effect is generally small in most connectors, but each junction between dissimilar metals forms its own little thermocouple. That is why the vendors like to see you use the proper wire and connectors in the thermocouple string. Temperature differences between the connection at the pot and the connections getting to the PID might give some variance. I have used really expensive equipment where the vendor ignored this and at the end of the day, it only shifted the true/measured by a couple of degrees. I use the purpose built connectors because I have a flock of hand-held as well as PID setups and it would be a vale of tears otherwise. In this application, I don't think that you need sweat it.

[dikman]

That's what I figured. If the connectors are making good solid contact then I see any possible voltage generated by the junction as being insignificant.