just ordered a 358-115G-RG4 from NOE!!!

[d1nk3r_9mm]

just got the funds together to order a 358-115G-RG4 from Noe bullet molds! it'll be my 1st hollow point mold, so i'm really looking for to casting some nice HP's for my 9's, anyway... does anyone have any tips or tricks for the mold? like some where to start on some load data... COL and that sort of thing... thanks

[HiVelocity]

Sure, read the directions that come with the mold..........lol! No, seriously, read the instructions. I have a few NOE molds and mine tend to run hotter than other steel molds I have. Just clean yours well per the instructions. Just remember, the HP pins have to be near as hot as the mold to drop bullets. The first few pours may look terrible, each gets better as the mold gets "seasoned". And, enjoy!

HV

[waco]

[QUOTE=HiVelocity;2604297]Sure, read the directions that come with the mold..........lol! No, seriously, read the instructions. I have a few NOE molds and mine tend to run hotter than other steel molds I have. Just clean yours well per the instructions. Just remember, the HP pins have to be near as hot as the mold to drop bullets. The first few pours may look terrible, each gets better as the mold gets "seasoned". And, enjoy!

YUP!!!
HP molds can be a little tricky. Heat, heat, heat!!!!!
And when that does not work, a little more heat to the mold..
Cast at a good cadence and don't stop!
The good boolits will start to appear.
NOE makes a top shelf product.

[d1nk3r_9mm]

lol, i wasn't sure if it came with them to be honest, as far as the first time cleaning, its close to what i do with all my new molds, and yeah all of my aluminum mold have to be HOT to cast nice looking boolits, what im really wondering about is how the mold itself works, with the pins and all... like how they attach and work, i guess im just excited about it a little, ive been casting for a little over a year now, and have been looking into getting a HP mold for a while now

[waco]

They are very self explanatory. You'll know what to do when you get it.

[Bzcraig]

HP's, even NOE's are tricky to get used to. I've had mine for awhile now and am still getting to know its personality, I have his 358135. Be patient, keep the pins hot and plan on frosted boolits.
I recently contacted Swede about my mold and he gave me these two links to read again. Heat and patience are your friend for HP.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?211195-Hints-and-Tips-for-casting-with-NOE-Moulds

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?211212-Adjusting-a-NOE-sprue-plate

[Bigslug]

I've just attached one of Frozone's PID temperature controllers to my furnace and did a run of NOE 358429's with WW+2% tin and the solid nose pins in. Got usable bullets with the melt temp at 750F, but the impression I get is the mold needs to be hotter - there's a tendency for the slugs to stick to the nose pins and need serious coaxing to come off.

I'm still new to and forming my opinions on the variable nose mold concept, but this has me leaning to the mindset of sticking with straight solid cavity molds for solid bullets. Until I get a handle on what's causing the nose stickiness, it puts a real damper on production rate.

[Boolseye]

You'll want a hardwood wacker of some sort–I open the mold upside down (I have the 358-135 version) then give the handle bolt a good smack. Occasionally you'll get a bullet hanging for dear life on a pin, but it'll come eventually. When the mold's hot enough and you're in a good rhythm, they'll all pop off with one or two whacks almost every time. You'll never cast as fast with an HP mold as with a solid, but you can move when you get the technique down. +1 on running it hot (I like to run all my molds hot). Personally, I dip the corner in the melt for a good while–but never do that with a cold mold! I also pre-heat with a hot plate–I'm not a big fan of casting for a half hour before the bullets look good, so I try to get it up to temp pretty fast. NOEs are top of the line...follow Al's break-in procedure, too. Another tip that I use is to take a little slice of heavy guage copper wire (cut w/ a jeweler's saw) between the set screws and the bolts they're holding. This prevents them from damaging the threads when they're tightened down. Don't know if it's necessary, but it made sense to me.

[Dale53]

I suggest STRONGLY to pre-heat hollow point moulds to just under proper casting temperature. Mine take one or two casts to start casting perfectly. That way, I insure I never overheat the mould.

A REALLY good way to have the bullets drop right off the hollow point pins is to paint the part of the pin that forms the hollow point with mould release. Here's what I am talking about:

http://www.buffaloarms.com/mould_prep_it-161428.aspx?CAT=3851

It is probably better to coat this the night before and let it dry but, frankly, I have done it just before casting and it seems to work as well. After coating, the bullets "fall off" the hollow point plugs.

NOE molds ARE top of the line. Good stuff and their customer service is top flite, also.

Dale53

[d1nk3r_9mm]

gosh i can't wait to get my mold now!! :-)