Question about length of time dry coating

[Walter Laich]

I've read that people tumble anywhere from 10-15 seconds up to 10 minutes
.
Just wondering if there is a happy medium

[prickett]

I think whatever time works for you. I do 10 minutes, but haven't really tried anything else. I've had so many other experiments going on, I've not gotten to shorter tumble time. I know 10 minutes works, so I've not played with it (yet).

So, I wouldn't be at all surprised if 10 minutes is way over kill and just a few minutes are all that should be required.

[gefiltephish]

I just drop 'em in a cottage cheese container with some powder (I don't bother to measure, just make sure there is more than enough), pop the lid on and roll around by hand in a taurus pattern (I think that's what it's called) for about a minute or so. Dump onto a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth to sift off the excess powder and then dump into ns foil lined pans. Pop into 400* preheated convection oven for 10 min. Separate bullets before they cool. I just did about 200 per tray last night, 2 trays in the oven at a time. Easy peasy! I've only done handgun bullets at this point. I'll probably be more particular with rifle when I get to them.

[bangerjim]

IF......you are talking about dry tumbling of powder..........???????

I use a coolwhip tub......NO LID......just put 30-50 boolits in and sprinkle a SMALL amount of powder in, swirl around a little, add more powder if all is on the boolits, swirl more, stop adding powder when it begins to collect in the bottom. Swirl total------about 2 minutes.

banger

[prickett]

BTW, I tumble mine in an old unused rotary tumbler, that is why I'm not really concerned about the amount of time. If I were to tumble by hand, I'd be much more concerned about reducing the time.

[Walter Laich]

I don't seem to get getting the HF red to stick on mine. The yellow is OK and when I mix the yellow and red it does the best job of all.
I'll lengthen the time and see what that does for me.
Guess I'm into the fine turning of this

[prickett]

it could be the amount of powder used and/or the size of container tumbled in. it could also be the material the container is made of.

experiment with changing each and see if you have better results.

[bangerjim]

I don't seem to get getting the HF red to stick on mine. The yellow is OK and when I mix the yellow and red it does the best job of all.
I'll lengthen the time and see what that does for me.
Guess I'm into the fine turning of this


If you are using a rotary tumbler.....................QUIT! I started out that way and had virtually ZERO success with any color. The boolits just ride around in the drum and do not coat.

Use a coolwhip (ONLY) container. And you have the fun of emptying it onto some pie! Other plastic containers do not work. Something about the "recycle #5" plastic and the round shape.

I shake & roll mine around without a lid for only about 2 minutes, adding tiny amounts of powder until the boolits will not coat any more and there is just a tiny bit of powder in the bottom.

ESPC is still my go-to method, but DT is a nice alternative to recoating matte black slugs that may be a bit abrasive. And you can get some cool effects!

But quit wasting your time with the rotary thing and go coolwhip!

banger

[prickett]

If you are using a rotary tumbler.....................QUIT! I started out that way and had virtually ZERO success with any color. The boolits just ride around in the drum and do not coat.

Use a coolwhip (ONLY) container. And you have the fun of emptying it onto some pie! Other plastic containers do not work. Something about the "recycle #5" plastic and the round shape.

banger

You need to be careful about issuing blanket statements. I and others use rotary tumblers with great success. Others (and I initially did too) use tupperware containers with good results. Occasionally, these methods don't work, and the user needs to try other things.

[bangerjim]

You need to be careful about issuing blanket statements. I and others use rotary tumblers with great success. Others (and I initially did too) use tupperware containers with good results. Occasionally, these methods don't work, and the user needs to try other things.

Coolwhip containers are cheep! Tumblers are not. I wasted hours farting around with my rotary trying to get powder to stick.

1st try with coolwhip worked well. Tupperware did NOT.

Just my observations on what does work and what could/may not work. People can try what they want and waste all the time and money they have if it so suite them.

bangerjim

[Walter Laich]

I have three small containers that fit inside my tumbler. The top of the tumbler holds them vertical.
I've been using the container, powder and swirl method will mixed results
decided to try running them in the containers in the tumbler for 10 min because someone on the board said this worked for them.
Boy, were they correct!
I ran them for 5-10 minutes and the bullets were evenly coated and baked up great so the point I'm only going to have the one coat on them.
Guess I'm now into the fine tune part of this endeavor

[Floydster]

I have small Harbor Frieght rotary tumbler, I put 50 bullets in and a 1/2 teaspoon of powder, tumble for two minutes, covers the bullets completely, works super.

[bmiller]

I put the bullets and powder in 1 pound coffee containers, and taped the lids on. Then I put them in my Dillon case tumbler. 2 or 3 minutes and they were coated.

[TheDoctor]

I use a small plastic jar. Enough powder that I have excess. About two minutes rolling and tilting by hand. Carefully dump on mesh to seperate from powder. Set on parchment paper. Bake. Do a second coat, bouncing on screen a few times, so that any bald spots are covered, powder doesn't really stick to already coated parts. Bake again. I will not claim that they are as smooth as ESPC, but not TOO far off.

[Walter Laich]

I've been using non-stick Reynolds Wrap. I'll give parchment paper a try too.

[prickett]

I use a small plastic jar. Enough powder that I have excess. About two minutes rolling and tilting by hand. Carefully dump on mesh to seperate from powder. Set on parchment paper. Bake. Do a second coat, bouncing on screen a few times, so that any bald spots are covered, powder doesn't really stick to already coated parts. Bake again. I will not claim that they are as smooth as ESPC, but not TOO far off.

What does the parchment paper provide that just baking them on the mesh doesn't?

[Walter Laich]

I have the parchment paper, don't have the mesh

[TheDoctor]

Every time I try mesh, I get mesh marks. That, and my oven is small, have a hard time baking in any worthwhile quantity and not having some stick to each other. Apparently works for some, just not that well for me. By standing them up, I can easily get 200 9mm size per 8 X 10 tray. Granted, it does take a bit of hand and eye coordination to do that many, but its something I am good at.

[prickett]

Thanks for the info guys.

I found that if you remove the boolits from the oven as quickly as you can following the buzzer, then you swirl the basket, boolits sticking together isn't a problem.

My oven is small/underpowdered, so getting more than 125 9mm's in it wouldn't allow the temp to get up to 400* :-(

[Walter Laich]

Mine is the smallest oven WallyWorld sells--got it cause it was the cheapest, too.
.
Haven't really tried a large batch--still having fun with the process and colors. Need to cast more so I can see how many I can coat at once

[garym1a2]

I use a 8x10 baking pan and just shake it side to side for a minute and also back and forth. Than dump them on a screen, this is very fast and give complete coverage.
Very little waste also.

If you are using a rotary tumbler.....................QUIT! I started out that way and had virtually ZERO success with any color. The boolits just ride around in the drum and do not coat.

Use a coolwhip (ONLY) container. And you have the fun of emptying it onto some pie! Other plastic containers do not work. Something about the "recycle #5" plastic and the round shape.

I shake & roll mine around without a lid for only about 2 minutes, adding tiny amounts of powder until the boolits will not coat any more and there is just a tiny bit of powder in the bottom.

ESPC is still my go-to method, but DT is a nice alternative to recoating matte black slugs that may be a bit abrasive. And you can get some cool effects!

But quit wasting your time with the rotary thing and go coolwhip!

banger

[Hang Fire]

BTW, I tumble mine in an old unused rotary tumbler, that is why I'm not really concerned about the amount of time. If I were to tumble by hand, I'd be much more concerned about reducing the time.

I have a HF double drum rotary tumbler and was wondering how it would work?

[Hang Fire]

I have three small containers that fit inside my tumbler. The top of the tumbler holds them vertical.
I've been using the container, powder and swirl method will mixed results
decided to try running them in the containers in the tumbler for 10 min because someone on the board said this worked for them.
Boy, were they correct!
I ran them for 5-10 minutes and the bullets were evenly coated and baked up great so the point I'm only going to have the one coat on them.
Guess I'm now into the fine tune part of this endeavor

Thanks for your post. That was my thoughts also as how to utilize the rotary tumble to best effect.

[Walter Laich]

HF,
no problem, we're learning from each other on this.
.
just cast 15 lb of bullets so I would have more to coat. this is best of both worlds

[prickett]

I have a HF double drum rotary tumbler and was wondering how it would work?

Mine is a Thumber's Tumbler and it works fantastic. Can't answer for the HF model, as different people occasionally have different results, even when using similar equipment. But, I'd certainly try it if I were you.

[dverna]

Rubbing almost anything against plastic can set up a static charge. The type of plastic, and material being processed may affect the static, for sure humidity will affect how much static you get.

That may help explain why some people have success with one method and others do not. What works for you in the dead of winter in MI with a RH of 25% may be a failure in FL with RH of 85%.

Whenever a method of doing something is not repeatable, there is an answer. The answer is rarely that the other person is careless or stupid. This is not rocket surgery.

One thing that seems to be more consistent is ES application - at least so far. But I have seen reports of people getting better spray coverage under certain humidity conditions.

It may be worthwhile noting the type of plastic (there is a mark on most plastic containers that tells you what it is) and the RH in your tests. If a method that works one day, does not work in the future, it may provide useful data and an understanding of the process. Much better than a pissing contest of "it works for me" - which can be interpreted as, "you must be doing it wrong".

Just my $.02

Don Verna

[prickett]

Great post Don, you nailed it!

[dverna]

Thanks pricket.

It likely shows, but I have a technical background. I have never bought into shooting, reloading, or casting as an "art". Those who believe it is an art are unable (not knowledgeable enough) or unwilling (to stubborn) to understand the process.

Some processes have a wider "operating window" than others. What that means is that they are more "robust" and less affected by slight changes in conditions. This makes them more forgiving and less "touchy". (You do not have to hold your tongue a certain way to get results - LOL). It seems ES PC has that feature.

There was a post on another thread where someone changed three different parameters between two loads and wondered what the results meant. It meant he wasted his time and resources - as no one will be able to draw any conclusions - although some will try.

Don Verna