Garand Rebarrel

[OKSaddletramp]

After I get my refund, I'm considering getting a CMP Garand. The only problem is, I'm not that big a fan of .30-06. The options I'm looking at are a rebore to .35 Whelen or conversion to .308W (for which I already have dies and moulds for shooting cast). Of course, both of these options involve removing the original barrel, first.

My main question is how difficult is removing and reinstalling the Garand barrel? Can I do it with a homemade barrel vise and padded wrench (36 in. pipe wrench)?

Assuming I can get the barrel off, any recommendations as to conversion versus rebore? The conversion (new barrel, op-rod, and modification of stock) would be slightly more than sending the original barrel off to JES, but then I would have to get new dies, moulds, and brass.

Thx for any help you can offer.

[Outpost75]

The .308 rebarrel is most feasible. If you decide to do so, I would be interested in buying your pull-off '06 barrel, if the muzzle is not worn, the gas cylinder splines are tight, and the breech erosion gage does not go in past "4," because I have a rifle with worn bore which will soon require replacement.

If you want to keep your original barrel, I understand, but if it is original GI in good condition, the $ would assist you on your project. In that case we would need to assess condition and determine fair market value.

[Jack Stanley]

The home made barrel vise is no problem , a pal of mine who does machine work made a nice one for me . But using a pipe wrench padded or not on the action sounds iffy . Depending on how tight the barrel is it can take a good bit force to break it loose . I've had several that were well into the difficult range , the same with putting a barrel on it can be a pain or not so bad . Indexing isn't a hard job but I would vote for using a regular action wrench or something very similar .

As for chambering to thirty-five Whelen , I think it has been done but I would be curious to hear if any headspacing problems came up in use . I have a Garand done in three oh eight Winchester and it does work very well , it will put a smile on your face .

Jack

[historicfirearms]

I've got one with a Citadel 308 barrel. No mods needed to the op rod or stock. Criterion barrels are pretty good too in 308.

One thing you might want to get if you go the 308 route is one of the spacer blocks so no one can insert a clip full of 30-06.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
I would give JES a call before removing the barrel. There may not be any need. I have sent him at least 4 Marlins to get bored and all were mounted to the receiver.
Also there is a big difference in a .35-06 and a 35 Whelen. The Whelen cartridge is fatter in the shoulder area. .458 for the Whelen as compared to .441 for the .35-06. This is one of the reasons there prevades the "headspace problem". Individuals are loading narrow 06 diameter brass into a fat Whelen chamber.
Mike in Peru

[country gent]

If getting a CMP/DCM rifle check they sometimes have the Crterion 308 barrels also one stop shoping there. I did one yearsago with a 308 douglas barrel and it was a dream, after 6000 rds its getting long in the throat. Keep it simple and easy. The pipe wrench isnt a good idea as these barrels can be tight and getting that last hour on can be hard. They arnt hard to do with the right tools. AFter barrel is installed and timed be sure to check headspace is acceptable. My Douglas needed a kiss on the shoulder to get to go gage. A Krieger is very good and a true match grade barrel but shoulders are all .100 long and chamber is .100 short. Allows for fitting and a true custom job. But also requires more machinery. My 308 garands douglas barrel is 4 groove 1-10 twist.

[OKSaddletramp]

I've got one with a Citadel 308 barrel. No mods needed to the op rod or stock. Criterion barrels are pretty good too in 308.

One thing you might want to get if you go the 308 route is one of the spacer blocks so no one can insert a clip full of 30-06.


How much would the Citadel or Criterion barrels go for. I was looking at the Beretta BM59 barrels from Sarco, and they intimated that the op rod and rear handguard were shorter by 1/2" for that barrel (which is in stock, going for $135 new/$29.95 used).

[OKSaddletramp]

The .308 rebarrel is most feasible. If you decide to do so, I would be interested in buying your pull-off '06 barrel, if the muzzle is not worn, the gas cylinder splines are tight, and the breech erosion gage does not go in past "4," because I have a rifle with worn bore which will soon require replacement.

If you want to keep your original barrel, I understand, but if it is original GI in good condition, the $ would assist you on your project. In that case we would need to assess condition and determine fair market value.

Outpost; depending on how worn your bore is, Sarco has "used, fair" barrels in stock for $34.95, and they just ran out of &99.95 frosted bore barrels.

[OKSaddletramp]

If getting a CMP/DCM rifle check they sometimes have the Crterion 308 barrels also one stop shoping there. I did one yearsago with a 308 douglas barrel and it was a dream, after 6000 rds its getting long in the throat. Keep it simple and easy. The pipe wrench isnt a good idea as these barrels can be tight and getting that last hour on can be hard. They arnt hard to do with the right tools. AFter barrel is installed and timed be sure to check headspace is acceptable. My Douglas needed a kiss on the shoulder to get to go gage. A Krieger is very good and a true match grade barrel but shoulders are all .100 long and chamber is .100 short. Allows for fitting and a true custom job. But also requires more machinery. My 308 garands douglas barrel is 4 groove 1-10 twist.


Country Gent; Just went over to CMP site. they list cCiterion barrels in stock for $189 plus $75 installation. This might be doable.

[OKSaddletramp]

If getting a CMP/DCM rifle check they sometimes have the Crterion 308 barrels also one stop shoping there. I did one yearsago with a 308 douglas barrel and it was a dream, after 6000 rds its getting long in the throat. Keep it simple and easy. The pipe wrench isnt a good idea as these barrels can be tight and getting that last hour on can be hard. They arnt hard to do with the right tools. AFter barrel is installed and timed be sure to check headspace is acceptable. My Douglas needed a kiss on the shoulder to get to go gage. A Krieger is very good and a true match grade barrel but shoulders are all .100 long and chamber is .100 short. Allows for fitting and a true custom job. But also requires more machinery. My 308 garands douglas barrel is 4 groove 1-10 twist.


Country Gent; Just went over to CMP site. they list cCiterion barrels in stock for $189 plus $75 installation. This might be doable.


Edit: sorry for the double, my server burped.

[country gent]

The cmp at camp perry is about 80 miles from my front door down the ohio turnpike. I make a run ounce a year during comercial row/nationals and see whats in stock there. It can be a real candy store at time.

[garandsrus]

Why not just buy a .308 Garand from the CMP?

RM1308SPECIAL
M1 Garand, CMP Special (.308)
Allow 120-180 days for delivery.
M1 Garand Harrington & Richardson Arms receiver. This is a completely refurbished rifle consisting of an original M1 Garand Harrington & Richardson Arms receiver, new production Criterion barrel, new production American Walnut stock and handguards, and new web sling. Receiver and most other parts are refinished USGI, but some parts may be new manufacture. Minor pitting may be present. A .308 spacer block is installed to prevent the loading of a .30-06 round into the chamber.

[kywoodwrkr]

I had a similar plan to re-barrel some CMP rifles.
Even purchased two barrels, one 7x57 and another in 308.
Haven't gotten those projects off the deck yet.
Given enough time, it may get done in this life time.
Get a good book on the maintenance and modification of the M1 garand and go for it.
Some have outstanding sections on re-barreling.
If it doesn't work out, break into parts and sell for a possible break even. :-)
YMMV
PS garandsrus has some good advise also.
No special tools and no headaches from unexpected setbacks.

[Outpost75]

Outpost; depending on how worn your bore is, Sarco has "used, fair" barrels in stock for $34.95, and they just ran out of &99.95 frosted bore barrels.

From previous experiewnce with Sarco, I do not have high confidence in anything they would sell so cheap. If anyone would have a late production USGI LMR or Springfield Armory (the REAL one) or similar which I could receive for inspection and gaging, upon approval I would happily pay $125 plus shipping for a shooter grade cal. .30 pull-off with bright bore and unworn muzzle, in which the breech bore erosion age goes no deeper than "4"

[OKSaddletramp]

From previous experiewnce with Sarco, I do not have high confidence in anything they would sell so cheap. If anyone would have a late production USGI LMR or Springfield Armory (the REAL one) or similar which I could receive for inspection and gaging, upon approval I would happily pay $125 plus shipping for a shooter grade cal. .30 pull-off with bright bore and unworn muzzle, in which the breech bore erosion age goes no deeper than "4"

For myself, I've had very good luck and excellent customer service from Sarco. The one time a shipment was missing a part, a call resulted in the part shipped USPS, and I received it two days later. I do know others have had issues with the quality of the parts they received, but I've always been very happy with the stuff I got.

I've decided that I'm going to go for the Service Grade SA, and do a conversion later, if at all. I considered going the HR .308 route from the get, but after reviewing my estimated tax refund (still waiting on one 1099 to file), I can't afford that just yet. Not without selling one of my other toys, anyway. When the time comes to do the conversion, I'll keep you in mind. I can't, of course, guarantee a Springfield barrel, but CMP does assure that the throats were is less than "5". I would have no trouble allowing you to inspect the barrel before cash had to be exchanged. (After all, if I've taken it off, I'm not going to be putting it right back on, now am I?)

And who knows? I won't be ordering it untill I get my refund, and they're projecting up to six months for delivery (assuming those jack***** at NCIC don't screw up), so by the time it arrives, I might already have a new Criterion barrel waiting.:wink:

[roverboy]

I had my Win. Garand rebarreled by Tim Shuff a while back and he did a great job. I already had the barrel and he did the work for 50 bucks.

[DeanWinchester]

Seen an IH garand at a gunshow some while back in .270 Winchester. Guy swore it was very very accurate. Had a reproduction M1-D mount and scope. Looked awesome.

[junkbug]

I believe you would be cheating yourself if you did not give a CMP M-1 Garand a fair run for its money in its original chambering. Granted, that may not be your favorite cartridge, but brass is as common as any brass can be, and reloading dies cost about 30 bucks. Same boolit molds for either cartridge. Maybe you will learn to love the .30 cal, M-1.

Best of luck to you. The M-1 works best in its original chambering, the others take addition work. Some like the challenge. Not me.

[OKSaddletramp]

junkbug,

I have shot stock Garands, many times. As a matter of fact, it's the only .30-06 I have ever shot decent groups with, even with a scope. Me and -06 just don't get along, except in the Garand. It's just that I shoot .308 better/more comfortably.

My first time with a Garand was a friend's CMP Rack Grade Winchester. It looked like a ***, but I could shoot an eight shot 2 1/2" group at 300 yds with the battle sights. The only guns I was anywhere near that good with were an Inland M1 Carbine (another CMP, but Srevice Grade) and a bubba'd Mauser rebarreled with .308 and a crappy buckhorn sight. The Carbine shot 5 shots to 1 3/4" at 200 and the bubba 3 1/4" at 250. You can't know how sorry I am that I let either of those guns get away from me. But you know how it is. Money's tight and there's always a "better" gun on the horizon.

Now, I am going to shoot my Garand stock, at least once. Assuming I can find affordable ammo, that is. Who knows, I might get such a pretty-bored shooter that I won't have the guts to mess with her. It's been known to happen.

[country gent]

At times CMP has 30-06 ammo also.

[bruce drake]

Where did you get the 7x57 Garand Barrel? Let me know if you ever tire of either one of those barrels. Are they threaded and profiled like a garand barrel or are they blanks?

Bruce


I had a similar plan to re-barrel some CMP rifles.
Even purchased two barrels, one 7x57 and another in 308.
Haven't gotten those projects off the deck yet.
Given enough time, it may get done in this life time.
Get a good book on the maintenance and modification of the M1 garand and go for it.
Some have outstanding sections on re-barreling.
If it doesn't work out, break into parts and sell for a possible break even. :-)
YMMV
PS garandsrus has some good advise also.
No special tools and no headaches from unexpected setbacks.

[historicfirearms]

If I ever find a decent Winchester Garand barrel, my 308 barrel is coming off and the Win barrel is going back on. The 308 is a good shooter, but something special about having an original Garand.

If you are set on a 308, have you looked at the M1a or M14 clones? You can pick up a used Springfield M1a or Polytech M14s for about what you'd have into a CMP SA SG and new barrel.

[bruce drake]

I'm sure you know our US Garands went through several rebuilds before being shelved so having a rifle that is all one manufacture might be difficult but not impossible. Well, its cheaper for me to modify my spare Garand than to buy outright a M14. Besides, I always preferred the Garand lines anyway. I was actually pretty curious about that 7mm Mauser barrel

[roverboy]

I'm sure you know our US Garands went through several rebuilds before being shelved so having a rifle that is all one manufacture might be difficult but not impossible. Well, its cheaper for me to modify my spare Garand than to buy outright a M14. Besides, I always preferred the Garand lines anyway. I was actually pretty curious about that 7mm Mauser barrelYour right Bruce, a lot will have different brand parts. Mine is mostly WRA(Winchester) but, has some SA(Springfield Armory) and the barrel I had installed is a Danish VAR. The barrel that was on it when I got it was a SA made in '53, so it had been probably rebarreled once already.

[OKSaddletramp]

If I ever find a decent Winchester Garand barrel, my 308 barrel is coming off and the Win barrel is going back on. The 308 is a good shooter, but something special about having an original Garand.

If you are set on a 308, have you looked at the M1a or M14 clones? You can pick up a used Springfield M1a or Polytech M14s for about what you'd have into a CMP SA SG and new barrel.


Where are you finding M1A's for under a grand? around here the cheapest I have seen in years was $1500, with most going for $2000-$2500 (M14's, too). While I do like the heft and balance of an M1A, there's just something about the feel of a Garand in your hands that's magic.

[country gent]

Another thing to look out for on garands and M14s is rewelds. I have seen several of both models that were demilled and welded back together to build rifles. CMP dosnt deal in these but they could turn up at gunshows and diffrent internet sellers. I have one of the rewelded garand actions that I replaced for a co worker. ( it wouldnt zero and later on it wouldnt function reliably) A straight edge down the side shows it is no longer straight and true. Theres many diffrent "grades" of these rifles out there. Another issue is the goverments claim ounce a machine gun always a machine gun hence even a weld selector M14 is still a machine gun. There are subtle diffrences in op rod reciever and disconector on the M1A and the M14.
If you like the Garand want the garand and feel the need for the Garand buy it, maybe shoot and play with it in 30-06 for awhile and rebarrel it at a later date. I started in NRA High power with a grarand rebarreled with a 308 med heavy douglas 4 groove 1-10 twist barrel, bedded and tuned. It ran me to low master classification. Stock and handgaurds were but ugly, an old blue sky imported gun. But the targets shot with it made it beautiful. I still have it in the safe and wont part with it. Barrel is getting long in the throat now but still acceptable accuracy. May need bedding touched up after setting so long now though. I switched to the M1A and then to ARs.

[Bob S]

I strongly recommend against trying to rebarrel an M1 without the proper tools and lots of machine shop experience. An M1 should not be your first attempt at barrel work. Mausers are fairly easy and a good starter project, but you still need an action wrench, barrel vise, chambering reamers and headspace gauges. I agree with the suggestion regarding the CMP .308 special, if you just don't care for .30 cal.

If you had an M1 in your hands that would put 8 rounds into less than 1 MOA at 300 yards, take that thing and RUN, don't walk, to Camp Perry for the National Championships, because that rifle that would be the match-winner; and I'm not talking about "games" matches, I'm talking about the National Trophy Match.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

[OKSaddletramp]

I strongly recommend against trying to rebarrel an M1 without the proper tools and lots of machine shop experience. An M1 should not be your first attempt at barrel work. Mausers are fairly easy and a good starter project, but you still need an action wrench, barrel vise, chambering reamers and headspace gauges. I agree with the suggestion regarding the CMP .308 special, if you just don't care for .30 cal.

If you had an M1 in your hands that would put 8 rounds into less than 1 MOA at 300 yards, take that thing and RUN, don't walk, to Camp Perry for the National Championships, because that rifle that would be the match-winner; and I'm not talking about "games" matches, I'm talking about the National Trophy Match.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

I had helped a gunsmith friend in California rebarrel a couple of Mausers back in the late 80's, but had no idea if Garands were as uncomplicated/finicky; which is why i asked to begin with.

The guy who owned the Garand I shot that day was headed to Camp Perry with it that year, and hoped to qualify for Wimbeldon later. Unfortunately, I PCS'ed before the match, and have no idea how it turned out.

[bruce drake]

Bob, That sub-1MOA Garand would be one of those mythical "Star Gauged" Garands I occasionally hear about on the Internet. Best M1 I ever see shot was a 2MOA rifle and that was astounding for me since he was shooting HXP71 surplus ammo!


I strongly recommend against trying to rebarrel an M1 without the proper tools and lots of machine shop experience. An M1 should not be your first attempt at barrel work. Mausers are fairly easy and a good starter project, but you still need an action wrench, barrel vise, chambering reamers and headspace gauges. I agree with the suggestion regarding the CMP .308 special, if you just don't care for .30 cal.

If you had an M1 in your hands that would put 8 rounds into less than 1 MOA at 300 yards, take that thing and RUN, don't walk, to Camp Perry for the National Championships, because that rifle that would be the match-winner; and I'm not talking about "games" matches, I'm talking about the National Trophy Match.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

[Bob S]

Bruce:

My McCoy's will shoot sub-MOA consistently and reliably. Although I don't own a Clint Fowler rifle, I know that his will, too. I got my first leg with Navy Grade A Mk2-1: not sub MOA, but you don't need sub MOA in the National Match Course. 1-1/2 MOA will get you in leg territory if you hold hard and can read the wind. I kept one of my Mk2-1 trophy rifles, it's about a 1-1/2 MOA rifle. I still like it ... has much "sentimental value". :grin:

Resp'y,
Bob S.

[Jack Stanley]

I have a Springfield barrel that was made as a replacement that will shoot probably better than any other I currently have , including the VAR barrels . I can't shoot it was well as I'd like but then when on the line I'm just happy to be there regardless of how I do .

Speaking of welded recievers , several years ago a fella was selling his dads accumulation or guns . Among them was a Garand with welded reciever that had a M1D barrel on it . The rifle I pulled down for parts , still have the barrel and I really should see if it shoots as well as that Springfield replacement barrel .

Recently wrenched a barrel on a Garand along with a parts kit . Everything went together well untill it came to check the timing of the rifle . It took a bit of chasing to find the follower arm needed replacement but other than that it seems to run just fine .

Jack

[bruce drake]

a McKoy Garand is on par with some bench rifles! They are going up in price every day! Clint Fowler knows a lot but a McKoy...I dream about owning a Garand rebuilt by him in his prime.

Bruce

[tygar]

Bruce:

My McCoy's will shoot sub-MOA consistently and reliably. Although I don't own a Clint Fowler rifle, I know that his will, too. I got my first leg with Navy Grade A Mk2-1: not sub MOA, but you don't need sub MOA in the National Match Course. 1-1/2 MOA will get you in leg territory if you hold hard and can read the wind. I kept one of my Mk2-1 trophy rifles, it's about a 1-1/2 MOA rifle. I still like it ... has much "sentimental value". :grin:

Resp'y,
Bob S.

Yes, a man that knows the real "Garand" guys.

Had a CPO McCoy 308 years ago that was great, easy 1.5 MOA or better. Clinton Fowler has tuned a couple M1s & M1As for me & made a 308 match M1. With his adjustable gas plug you can really dial in loads. This one shoots the full clip at 100 in 1.2", repeatable. One of the M1As Clinton did shoots 8" at 500. (at least twice but a long time ago before my eyes went lol)

Reminds me I need to give him a call to do some work if he's still around.

[Multigunner]

Always use a proper action wrench when rebarreling any type of receiver.

If you must have a .308 Garand look around for Berretta 7.62 NATO barrels. They made several versions of the Garand barreled for the 7.62 NATO Cartridge. Some were full length others were shorter barreled.
Find out for sure if the threads are the same before buying one, I think they are but I'm not sure.

PS
Apparently the BM59 E Berretta while it looks to be full length may have been converted by shortening and rethreading the shank, removing 1/2" of the breech end, if so the standard Garand op rod may not work with these.

[Gtek]

I would not recommend the Italian save job barrels in .308. They were shortened to allow chamber conversion from 30-06 on US produced barrels given to them in transfer. The op rod requires shortening to a very proper length and when the bolt is in battery the op rod saddle is forward of bearing surface and floating off barrel bottom. This IMHO is the most critical time of the op rod when initiating dwell and rotating bolt from battery and being driven at peak pressure. The stock and rear handguard also require modification (shortening). Buy the correct barrel, pay the right guy to handle it, you be the guy to pay for it and enjoy it. Gtek

[kywoodwrkr]

Where did you get the 7x57 Garand Barrel? Let me know if you ever tire of either one of those barrels. Are they threaded and profiled like a garand barrel or are they blanks?

Bruce
Bruce,
The 7x57 short chambered barrel was by Barnett and sold by Brownells. Date 10-98 on it.
Complete military cut-sticker says heavy barrel-not sure what that means.
Brownells had them on clearance When ??, just know it was before 2008.
Haven't found the 308 yet though.
I understand you entered a raffle-wishing you good luck in that endeavor.
Saw good reviews of the Barnett barrels though.
Hope to hear from you one of these days.
Thanks.

[bruce drake]

Dave,

I got your PM this evening and will endeavor to do my best to get the proper parts and a quality gunsmith rounded up to do that 7x57 barrel justice. It might be a little while before the project is completed but I will make sure it gets done and fired in a rifle match!

Bruce

[gwozdz]

As Bob mentioned, if you are going to do this at home, you will need to consider the extra cost of a reamer and headspace gauges. You may also want to consider alignment tools to index the barrel. If the barrel is in the white, then bluing costs. Also make sure the caliber you choose will load and feed out of the enblocs.

[Bob S]

Saw good reviews of the Barnett barrels though.


I was the guinea pig of the Navy Team for Barnett barrels (M14): I got the first one put on after the Interservice in 1990 or 91. I was happy enough with it to purchase one for my personal M1A.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

[bruce drake]

Bob, thanks for the review on the Barnett Barrels. The new barrel that KYWoodworker is sending north will be installed by a qualified Garand Gunsmith as soon as I narrow the right one down. I'd prefer to have one who has installed one of these Barnett Barrels in the past already and can resolve any known issues with the 7mm Mauser chambering. I am not afraid to do a Mauser or other Bolt action rifles but when it comes to turning off and installing a barrel like a Garand, I'll reach out to the pro who has the proper gauges and tools.

Now I need to start accumulating the best components possible to match up to the quality of the barrel. The donor action is from a Blue Sky Garand so it has a rough exterior, the receiver would need a new Parkerizing or at least Duracoated while the rest of the parts I currently have on that rifle aren't worth reusing on such a new barrel.

Probably one of the best Birthday Presents I have received in a long time was that PM from Dave (Kywoodwrkr) last night. I'm hoping now to get the rifle built before next year's 44th!

Bruce

[lonewelder]

CMP would be your best bet.they now work on garands.a criterion barrel is just under 200. Then you need an action wrench,pull through chamber reamer(you can rent),and a barrel wrench.just for one rifle you would be far ahead to let cmp do it for you.I forgot gauges too.

I would stay away from the itallian 308 barrels.I think they were cut down and re-chambered.hand guard and op rod are shorter too.just my 2cents

[Worn_Holster]

I bought a CMP field grade Garand and re-barrelled it with a Criterion .308 barrel right away. I did replace the gas tube with one of the Garand Guy's hard chromed plated and rebored tubes, but nothing else. I am getting 2 1/2" groups with German DAG surplus at 100yds without any other modifications. I'd say that's pretty good. By changing to .308, you can use newer .308 ammo without worrying about having to change the gas plug. The Garand Guy sold me barrel and installed it for $250, matching Shuff's price. No shipping for me, made the deal sweet. He did it white I waited, and it took less than 1 hour with the right tools. In addition, the Garand Guy swapped out all of my non-period correct parts with the correct ones for my January 1945 wartime Springfield Garand (except the new CMP wood furniture).
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab52/myHKiron/Garand/b49de919.jpg
http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab52/myHKiron/Garand/48b76a8f.jpg

[roverboy]

Worn Holster, that's a good looking M1 you got there. Sounds like it shoots good too.

[bruce drake]

I've talked to a Highpower Gunsmith (Schuff's)in Michigan who will be rebuilding this 7mm Mauser garand for me very shortly. Once its built I'll let everyone know how she operates.

Bruce

[bruce drake]

The barrel arrived in today's mail. It is in beautiful condition. NOS all the way. original barrel wrap as well! Now I need to mike the gasport and prep the receiver and bolt for a barrel swap. It will need a finish reamer run in it after it is installed and hopefully it will be ready by fall as Schuff's Gunsmithing in Jerome MI has 60-80 day turn-around on his work. Tim said he's never done a 7mm Mauser Garand before but he's willing to put the barrel on for $50 if I was to get it headspaced myself. Right now, the barrel's chamber will accept a 257 Roberts dummy round but will not accept a 260 Remington (6.5-08) dummy round with makes me pretty certain that the 7mm-08 Brownell's label on the wrap was a mislabel and that when Gene Barnett stamped it 7mm Mauser...He meant 7mm Mauser! Right now it is definitely short-chambered by at least .10" (calibrated eyeball) so I'll need to use a finish reamer when it comes back from Schuff's. So, the next step on this thread is for me to tear down the Garand for mailing the parts and barrel to Tim. While they are in Michigan getting the work done on it, I'll make a point of refurbishing the other metal parts and the wooden stock for when the barreled receiver and bolt return. I'll follow up as this project moves forward.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Bruce,

Question for you - without having a "pull through" 7MM reamer, how are you going to get the reamer turned in the barreled action and get it turned? Or are you going to have a custom reamer made that works with a pull through?

[bruce drake]

Dave,

Coming back to this thread just to provide an update. I used a standard chamber reamer and I reamed the chamber by hand using an extension socket and a universal socket to allow my turn the reamer by hand while still working with the closed end of the receiver. cut once and measure twice is the doctrine for this. I used the stripped bolt to make sure that the bolt would close on a dummy round and a GO/NO gauge set to ensure the chamber was cut to SAAMI spec.

I have a thread already built on this rifle in this forum so I won't hijack this original thread. Its a beautiful shooting rifle. 7x57 is almost a perfect cartridge for this rifle. minimal recoil and great accuracy. I just haven't developed a cast load yet for this rifle as I built this rifle up for use in NRA Highpower rifle competitions in honor of KyWoodworker who sent this rifle barrel to me out of the blue. Perhaps this summer, I'll find a good cast load for this rifle as well. I'm thinking of building a load using a 160-170gr mold once I have some time set aside for range development.

[Mauser48]

Recently i made a barrel vise for my 1903-a3. I just soaked the threads in liquid wrench for a day before i took the barrel off. I used about a 24 inch pipe and it popped loose just fine. When i put the barrel back on i put antiseize on the threads.

[seagiant]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jN9iSoIuUAU