Boolits sticking in the mold

[fastfire]

Last night I cast my first hollow points using 452 230Gr. HP RG2 cavity PB.
Cleaned the mold with dish soap and tooth brush.
Smoked the mold and pins.
The boolits come off the pins good but still sticking in the mold.
I use a lead hammer but don't want to beat the s**t out of the mold hitting the handle.
I have repetedly smoked the mold with a lighter, it helps but not much.
Do I need to lament the mold? I have never done this.Can it be done with a HP mold?

[AlaskanGuy]

I would use a simple bore brush.... Chuck it up in a drill, and give er a spin... Polish the mold a bit on each side...... Dont go crazy though... Then re-scrub with dawn and toothbrush, then re-smoke.... Get it good and hot a couple times, really cycle the temp up and down a couple times.... Then cast away... I bet that will fix er up good.

AG

[Old Caster]

I had a Lyman 358477 mold that was drilled a little off center and it caused the same problem. I finally gave it away. I hope it worked OK for him.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

One of the causes of bullets sticking in the mold (cavities) is sometimes hard to see burrs along the edges of the cavities. They can be spotted with a magnifying glass or sometimes "felt" with the edge of a card. They can and will cause bullets to stick and /or not drop easily and they must be removed. Follow the instructions given by Alaskan guy in post #2. When a mold is 'right" it doesn't have to be smoked to produce good bullets and it doesn't have to be "whacked" or beaten senseless to drop the bullets. Just a tap or two on the handle hinge should do the job. "Lementing" a mold is a job done when something is really wrong or defective so be sure first that it has to be done. A lead hammer is ok to use, but a plastic mallet, a wooden dowel or a rawhide hammer will also work well. When the temperature of the alloy and the mold are right the whole operation should go smoothly. Keep the cavities clean and the mold well stored and it should last a long time. LLS

[fastfire]

I will give the bore brush a try,do I just turn it with my fingers or drill?
I know being aluminum mold I can't get to carried away doing this. thanks

[Bzcraig]

If your boolits are frosted and sticking maybe your mold is running to hot. If they are coming off the pins try placing your mold on a damp rag every other cast to cool it some.

[fastfire]

Non of this bunch are frosted, I was getting about 2 pours per min.




If your boolits are frosted and sticking maybe your mold is running to hot. If they are coming off the pins try placing your mold on a damp rag every other cast to cool it some.

[SwedeNelson]

fastfire

Are you getting any flash around the base of the bullet?
Sprue plate may need to be adjusted.
What is your alloy?
Have seen problems with range scrap in the past.
How hot are your blocks?
A good block temperature for that one is about 380F to 420F

If it keeps acting up send it back and will check it out

Swede Nelson

[fastfire]

Yes, the cavity farthest away from the piviot of the sprue plate has flash on 1/2 of the base of the boolit. The flash is to one side of the mold not on the end side if that makes sence.
I was casting @ 660-680 2 casts per min so I didn't get the mold to hot.
The alloy is reclamed cast boolits with 2% tin.
Also one of the pins is slightly off center.

Thanks,


fastfire

Are you getting any flash around the base of the bullet?
Sprue plate may need to be adjusted.
What is your alloy?
Have seen problems with range scrap in the past.
How hot are your blocks?
A good block temperature for that one is about 380F to 420F

If it keeps acting up send it back and will check it out

Swede Nelson

[fastfire]

I deburred the cavities and smoothed the area where the sprew pivot hole is and no more flash and the boolits come out of the mold with a couple of light taps now, all is well.