new lee 380 boolit

[siamese4570]

I was on the lee site today and noticed that they just brought out a new mold for the .380-9mm. It's a 95 gr rf with the tumble lube grooves. anybody else seen this. looks like it might be good for the .380. kind of looks like the .380 ranchdog mold that he brought out right before he shut down.
siamese4570

[leadman]

I suggested this style to Richard Lee a couple of times and then to Andy Lee. I have one of the last group buys for the 9X18 Makarov that is very similar to this and it shoots much better than their other offerings.
Don't know if my suggestions had any influence or not but it would be nice to think that they listened to their customers.
Too bad they are offering the 30cal 230-5R TL in the style Midway offered. A very difficult boolit to get to shoot well. I drilled one cavity out to remove the boat-tail and it did not really do much to improve it.

[dkf]

I have a 6 cavity of the new 356-95 from Lee. Drops .358" (center band/rib .360") at 97gr with range scrap and some babbit thrown in.

[Wilkie]

****. Now I have to buy one of these. I'm going to try it out in my Taurus 738 TCP.

[reloader28]

For what its worth, the actual Ranch Dog boolit shoots great in my wifes and mine Taurus 738's, plus several other 380's.
Mines a touch heavier though. It drops at 103gr with WW.

[rintinglen]

For what its worth, the actual Ranch Dog boolit shoots great in my wifes and mine Taurus 738's, plus several other 380's.
Mines a touch heavier though. It drops at 103gr with WW..
+1 If I didn't have the Ranch Dog Original, I'd jump on one of these like a starving dog on a steak. The RD works better than factory in my PPK. I use WW-231 and it runs fine through my Beretta, PPK, and colt. I have the similar design for the 32 ACP also.

[cattleskinner]

Well if they are dropping that big of diameter, I may just have to get one to replace the 105 gr swc mold for plinking.

[HiVelocity]

I too, just bought this mold. I haven't received mine yet. I hope mine drops, at least, at .359.

I plan on loading these in .380, 9mm, and some in 38 Spl. For use in my Ruger LCP, I cast the NOE 88gr hollow point in which I routinely add a plain based gas check, run them around 950'/" with either 231 or Titegroup.

I think this is a Ranch Dog design, either way, I'm glad to have one.

HV

[siamese4570]

HVL do you size your boolits for your lcp? siamese4570

[enoch59]

Yes ! Thank you one and all. I just got off of the Lee site and purchased one of the 380 95g molds. I have been holding on to about 20 rounds of an old Hensley mold that a friend let me borrow several years ago that was about 102g FN that just tore the heck out of anything it touched. I have been going crazy trying to get a 107g swc in .357 that I resize down. It too hits like no tomorrow but I have to set it a little too deep and it creates some difficulties. But no more. You guys have made my day. Now I need to sell off a few molds to get myself on the plus column again.

[HiVelocity]

Okay, looks like I'm going to like this bullet, if it shoots as good as it looks.

Average weight is 96 grains, mine drop at .3575.

Here's a peek.

94791



HV

[HiVelocity]

94829

This is the original load data sheet on the 100 grain bullet. Just thought I'd share.

Advisory: You are responsible for how you put your handloads together, assuming your weapon is in good condition to shoot the same. I, nor Ranch Dog Outdoors, nor the Cast Boolits forum, assume any responsibility expressed or implied. Please be safe, enjoy.

HV

[HiVelocity]

Well, these cast well, load well. Lets see this week how they shoot. 9mm handload with one of the powders on RD Load Data Sheet posted prev.

HV


95099

[phaessler]

+1 On the Ranch Dog original, have used it in .38's , 380's, and 9's without issues. Throws fat with my mix, 0.360" at 100gns.

[Bored1]

Was on the fence with this one, guess now I gotta try it!!!

[mike_kaleigh]

ok well you guys got me, i cant find it on their sight, link please

[dkf]

http://www.titanreloading.com/molds/bullet-molds/9mm-luger-38-super-auto-380-auto/lee-6-cav-mold-35695rf

http://www.titanreloading.com/molds/bullet-molds/9mm-luger-38-super-auto-380-auto/lee-dc-mold-35695rf

[cattleskinner]

I just got one from Titan Reloading also. The shipping only took two or three days, and as cast it measures .358". Should work great for my 380's and as 357 lever action plinkers.

[captaint]

Thanks for the load date, HV. I gonna run these RD's thru the Star. Have to load up the ones I have cast. Mike

[BDJ]

Just received this mold yesterday. One look at it and I knew I had made a mistake. I ordered the double cavity mold.

The six cavity should be in my mail box Tuesday. :)

[enoch59]

96774How are you guys lubing these bullets ? I use a LAM11 and they didn't seem to hold much lubricant in the grooves. I also have a slight problem with the pins that hold the mold onto the handles. One side pin was slightly protruding on the mold itself with an ever so slight crack. I called Lee and the tech told me that it shouldn't be a problem. After molding over one thousand bullets in the past week or so I noticed that the handles were kinda weak and that once hot started to weep a bit. All I had to do was just push down on the mold when I was done to straighten it out again. Lastly I am getting about one in every six or eight units that have some over pour on the base to the point that they wont fit into my .355 sizer die. I did come up with a system to lube these critters. Here's what it looks like. I mounted a straight edge from an old tri-square to the right of my LAM which I use to clean off the lube from bottom of the bullets and two old wire brushes mounted vertically to clean the tools that I use to keep the base of the sizer die clean from lube seeping in. I then double dip the bullets into the sizer with a five count per dip which loads up the lube to the point that it almost smears from one groove to the other. I wish they would have just one large lube groove. I'm sending mine back to Lee and asking if they can do that because I'm not set up with Alox and I'm not wanting to either. It sounds like a pain to deal with a multi-day system. Anyway by keeping my lube just so in warmth I was able to get a good lube joint to the bullets and they shoot great. Hi-Velocity gave me his formula for loading them and it works like a charm. They are down right tack drivers. I'm getting great results out to 25 yards. My only problem now is where in the heck can I get some Win 231 ?

96773

[Garyshome]

Dog gone it. Now I have to get one too!

[GabbyM]

Well enoch59:

First don’t worry about having enough lube.
Second a .355” size die is on the small side. Being the jacketed bullet diameter. It will work with a proper sized 9mm bore. I size all my 9mm to .357” and the sloppy chambers my pistols have chamber them easily. Larger die would reduce he amount of sizing you are doing. But you’ll also get more smoke at firing line as the extra diameter of lube will be squeezed out then purged and turned into smoke. But so what. If they are working for you I’d say not to overly complicate your life with change.

On your lube sizer routine. You lost me a bit. With the push pull sizers. It’s always a balancing act between lube heat/viscosity/pressure applied on the lube screw. Having a dell time at the bottom of the stoke is something I’ve never tried. Have tried double stroking and that about always results in lube under the bullet. I’d suggest deleting the dwell time and double stroke then play with setting heat and lube pressure to get a fast one stroke fill.

[GabbyM]

This is a great 9mm bullet. It's a Ranch Dog improvement over the Lyman 100 grain TCFP.
I sent in some samples of my bullets from the rare Lyman mold to a fellow we finally had to just toss out of here since he was such a jerk. But we had some copy molds made. Ranch Dog improved upon the design. Some fluke with the Lyman design is they had a tendency to form air pockets. Mine works after I converted it to a machine caste mold. This new RD shape is high end stuff. Lee picked it up and we are lucky for that. Shallow lube groves are not a bad thing. There's plenty of grease. Mold fill out is easier. Stability is better as more bullet weight is on the outside edge.

I wrote a few stories on how the Federal 100 gain TCFP soft nose as used by the ISP was what got the super 9 stared in law enforcement. I personally prefer the 124gr TCFP in a 9x19. However the 100 grain TCFP s used by the Illinois State Police is what put the 9x19 on the map. Then after adoption the idiots loaded a 147 grain bullet then declared the round inadequate. suppose if they'd of received a 7.62mm NATO round after half century of success they'd of loaded a 250 grain bullet then determined the round unusable.

TCFP punches twice the size hole in clay as a RN. It's all you need. No hollow point required unless you want to have piss poor penetration.

[enoch59]

Well enoch59:

First don’t worry about having enough lube.
Second a .355” size die is on the small side. Being the jacketed bullet diameter. It will work with a proper sized 9mm bore. I size all my 9mm to .357” and the sloppy chambers my pistols have chamber them easily. Larger die would reduce he amount of sizing you are doing. But you’ll also get more smoke at firing line as the extra diameter of lube will be squeezed out then purged and turned into smoke. But so what. If they are working for you I’d say not to overly complicate your life with change.

On your lube sizer routine. You lost me a bit. With the push pull sizers. It’s always a balancing act between lube heat/viscosity/pressure applied on the lube screw. Having a dell time at the bottom of the stoke is something I’ve never tried. Have tried double stroking and that about always results in lube under the bullet. I’d suggest deleting the dwell time and double stroke then play with setting heat and lube pressure to get a fast one stroke fill.

Thank you so much for the advise. I have both a 356 and 357 sizer dies so I'll give the 357 a try and see what happens. I've been toying with an idea of putting a small plate between my Lyman Heater and the press to cool down the lube. The heater is just way too much so I spend time turning it on and then off looking for that perfect temp that fills groove but doesn't get sloppy. I sure appreciate the help. Enoch.

[FergusonTO35]

Just ordered one, gonna give it a try in my 9's. If I'm not mistaken this is a tumble lube design? If it drops at .357 that would be very nice. Also gives me a reason to go buy a new Glock 42- got a new $20.00 mold, might as well throw in a $460.00 pistol to go with it!:lovebooli

[dkf]

Yes tumble lube design.

[gefiltephish]

Thank you so much for the advise. I have both a 356 and 357 sizer dies so I'll give the 357 a try and see what happens. I've been toying with an idea of putting a small plate between my Lyman Heater and the press to cool down the lube. The heater is just way too much so I spend time turning it on and then off looking for that perfect temp that fills groove but doesn't get sloppy. I sure appreciate the help. Enoch.

I have no idea of the draw for a lyman heater but...for my set up I rigged up an electrical box with a receptacle and a dimmer switch. Plugged the heater into the receptacle and control the heat with the dimmer. I'm using a 50w glue on crankcase heater though.

[cattleskinner]

Well I finally shot a fifteen of these through the new glock and there was no leading. If you try to load from a full magazine using the slide release, the slide will hang up on the feed ramp. There was no issues if slingshotting the slide. I only shot them at 7 yds in the barn, but it is still an inch or two groups at that range. The Unique load I used worked well also, a bit of flame out the end of the barrel in low light however. The rifling in the barrel is a bit different than the usual glock, in that the edges if the lands have a sharp line running the length. More shooting to come to test further.

[dkf]

If you have a G42 it has been having issues with the slide hanging up with multiple types of ammo.

[FergusonTO35]

That's good if the 42 has rifling of a more cast boolit friendly style. I have examined a few Glocks that visually appeared to be standard rifling. Does it appear to have good case support around the feed ramp?

[dualsport]

I'm not familiar with the Taurus 380 used in the Ranch Dog load data. I have a Bersa and it loves the original RD design. Very accurate and clean. How does the Bersa compare strength wise with the Taurus? Isn't the Bersa a Walther knock-off?

[zxcvbob]

Where are y'all seeing this new mold on Lee's web site? I sure can't find it! Thanks.

http://leeprecision.com/bullet-casting/hand-gun-bullet-molds/bullet-mold-6-cavity/

[dkf]

zxcvbob, it is under "2014 New Products".

http://leeprecision.com/2014-new-products/



I'm not familiar with the Taurus 380 used in the Ranch Dog load data. I have a Bersa and it loves the original RD design. Very accurate and clean. How does the Bersa compare strength wise with the Taurus? Isn't the Bersa a Walther knock-off?

The taurus TCP is similar to the Ruger LCP. The Bersa is similar to the Walther.

[zxcvbob]

Thanks, that does look like a good one. Very similar to the Winchester White Box ammo that i like to carry (when I carry a .380 instead of a .38 Special)

[enoch59]

I've shot a few hundred of these Lee 95gr.bullets since I got the mold a few weeks ago. I am shooting them in my Iver Pony in .380 with a load of 3.2gr,.of Win 231. This load was offered to me by Hi-Velocity ( thank you John ) and shoots perfectly. The second is in my CZ PO-1 in 9mm with a load of 4.1gr. of Bullseye and is equally as accurate as the .380 load. I'm using Bullseye instead of Win 231 in the 9mm cause I have several more pounds of it and I am just about out of the 231. I tried using several different powders in each caliber and different weights before coming to these conclusions. Both of these loads are well within limits of the load books and are safe in my weapons and should be safe in others (I am not guaranteeing anything). This bullet is now the only one I am using in my 380 loads and will be my mainstay in 9mm too. I sure wish I had bought a six gang mold instead of a two but hey I can get one another time when I have the dough. I wanted to offer these loads to all of you for helping me so much as a new member.Enoch.

[gefiltephish]

I bought this mold when it first came out from Lee (dkf's suggestion). I got it for my wife's Sig 238. To make a long story short, I've been having feeding problems with this bullet in this gun. But then, so far this gun doesn't like anything that is not ball. Over the past 2 months or so I've tried numerous adjustments to get it to work, but so far it's not going so well. First I had sized 'em to .358, then to .357. All drop test just fine. Now I have some made up @ .356 but haven't gotten to the range the last 2 weeks. The .356 SEEMS to work better by hand, but I will try to confirm this at the range this weekend. I"m trying to get this to work with PC, but plain cast seems to feed slightly better than PC'd.

I suspect the problem is really the very anemic OEM recoil spring. That weak spring may be great for the lady's and ball ammo, but I fully expect this sucker to eat the bullets I make for it. I contacted Wolff about stronger spring(s) and they said they plan to do so, but it is not currently on the schedule. Ugh. If others who have this gun would like a stronger spring, I suggest pestering Wolff about it asap. BTW, a 938 spring has a smaller id and won't fit over the 238's guide rod.

[enoch59]

I have no idea of the draw for a lyman heater but...for my set up I rigged up an electrical box with a receptacle and a dimmer switch. Plugged the heater into the receptacle and control the heat with the dimmer. I'm using a 50w glue on crankcase heater though.
gelfiltephish, I've been chewing on your idea of using a dimmer to help control heat to my Lyman heater. I found myself at a second hand tool supply today and I picked up a Skylark S-600P slide dimmer with on/off switch ( 600 W Max 120 VAC, 60 Hz-5A ). It has two wire leads one hot and one neutral. Can you tell me if this is sufficient for use in this application and if so can you make a suggestion to me as to how I might wire it ? I've been in the building field for a very long time but never in the electrical side of it. Any help would surely be appreciated. Thank you, Enoch. PS. What is 50W glue ?

[gefiltephish]

gelfiltephish, I've been chewing on your idea of using a dimmer to help control heat to my Lyman heater. I found myself at a second hand tool supply today and I picked up a Skylark S-600P slide dimmer with on/off switch ( 600 W Max 120 VAC, 60 Hz-5A ). It has two wire leads one hot and one neutral. Can you tell me if this is sufficient for use in this application and if so can you make a suggestion to me as to how I might wire it ? I've been in the building field for a very long time but never in the electrical side of it. Any help would surely be appreciated. Thank you, Enoch. PS. What is 50W glue ?

Sounds about right to me, but I'm not an electrician. As I pointed out, I'm not familiar with the Lyman heater so don't know how many watts, but I doubt it's over 600.

Read it like this: ...50w(att) glue-on crankcase heater... I got this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I8YPQ4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but I don't recall paying that rediculous amount for shipping! More likely I ordered a bunch of stuff together and got free shipping. I stuck it to 1/2" steel plate 'cause that's what I had on hand. Works great.

[enoch59]

Sounds about right to me, but I'm not an electrician. As I pointed out, I'm not familiar with the Lyman heater so don't know how many watts, but I doubt it's over 600.

Read it like this: ...50w(att) glue-on crankcase heater... I got this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I8YPQ4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but I don't recall paying that rediculous amount for shipping! More likely I ordered a bunch of stuff together and got free shipping. I stuck it to 1/2" steel plate 'cause that's what I had on hand. Works great.
10/4, I understand. Thank you ! Enoch.

[w0fms]

Lee has a 6 cavity in the 100gr range for 380 ACP now? Sweet.. I should be mad about having "settled" for the 2 cavity a few months ago.. but.. hey it was $20. Good thing I saw this thread. I need that. ;)

Say what you want about "Lee".. but.. sweet...

[xacex]

OK, you talked me into it. Ordered the 6 cavity for this one. If it shoots as good as people report with the Ranchdog 380 boolit I will be happy. I will have to try it in 357 sig, PC'd of course.

[FergusonTO35]

What are you guys lubing this boolit with? My mold came in today, I'm thinking it would be best to paint the sides with LLA. Looking forward to trying it in my Kel-Tec PF9!!

[tazman]

I have been using this boollet for a couple of weeks now with very good(for me) results in my Taurus pt92 afs. I have been lubing it with LLA and sizing it to .357 with a LEE sizing die. No leading excellent function and good accuracy. About all I can ask of a light weight, lead stretching slug.

[reloader28]

I run mine at .358 thru the lube sizer with the NRA lube.

[FergusonTO35]

My mold came in yesterday, I poured a bunch of 'em today. Half I pan lubed with 60/40 alox-beeswax like all my other pistol slugs, other half I painted the sides with LLA as I do my rifle boolits. Didn't size them, if they feed and function there's no need to. I don't have a .380 so I'll load up some 9's with Titewad and 700X and see how they do!

[tazman]

Titewad worked well for me with this bullet.

[saguaro]

Are you guys loading these as cast or sizing them, and if so to what?

Saguaro

[saguaro]

Never mind, I didn't see there were three pages of posts. Sorry.

[FergusonTO35]

Pan lubing works with this one but I get more Boolits than average with insufficient lube in the tiny grooves. I'm not a huge fan of tumble lubing because I don't like lube all over the boolit but maybe that's just what I'll have to do. Perhaps I'll give Ranch Dog's dip lube a try.

[tazman]

I warm up the LLA bottle so the lube is very liquid before I use it. I get a nice even thin coat that doesn't gum up things in my loading die or pistol.
I fired 70 of these a couple of days ago with no leading at all. I sized them .357 with a Lee sizing die.

[FergusonTO35]

Tried these Boolits today in the Kel-Tec PF9. They work great! Feed and function 100% and accuracy and point of impact is the same as my usual 3.2 Bullseye/Lee 356-120 load. Another bonus is the brass only goes 4-5 feet instead of into the next county as with other loads. After shooting I immediately poured a bunch more. I think this pistol and boolit were divinely appointed for each other and so shall they remain.

[tazman]

If you get the chance to run it over a chronograph I would like to know what velocity you are getting.

[NSP64]

I started a tread before I saw this one. I ordered a DC for trial with my 380,9mm,38,357's.
I should have it Monday and will cast some up and shoot over my crony this week.

I just got a 380. My go-to boolit was the Lee 125gr rf in 9,38,357, but It don't fit the 380 case very well. [smilie=1:

[a.squibload]

I would like something like this shape in a .401 for 40s&W, any suggestions?
(Hope it's not too off-topic.) Didn't see one on the Lee site for 40s.

Had some trouble feeding the Lee TL 175 (truncated cone) in my Kahr, it has a really steep feed ramp.
Feeds better "slingshotting" the slide instead of using the slide release, but has an
occasional failure to feed (or completely come to battery) when shooting.
Thought maybe the curved ogive might have a better chance to make it into the chamber.
(Edit: just saw a 402-105 rnfp on NOE site but it's out of stock.)

The Lee 105gn round nose 380 works fine but I like the looks of this new one,
might have to get one.

[dkf]

Take a look at some of the Accurate designs. He can also work with you to make a different design for your needs. He just can't do the 3 degree front draft angle that is on the .380 Ranch Dog design because he doesn't use a cherry to cut the molds. His molds are made to order but lead time is usually only a couple weeks.

http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=4

[a.squibload]

Yeah, some of those look pretty good. I don't have trouble with jaxketed,
and most of them have either a small meplat, small dia. hp, or curved ogive.
Guess I just have to get more molds and see which one works best!

[Bosshaug]

For those of you using the RCBS Lube-A-Matic, what top punch are you using?

Thanks in advance..

[a.squibload]

Think I got mine from The Perfessor, the flat one works fine for all my
pistol boolits. It leaves a small flat on the round nose 380s but that's OK with me.
I haven't set up the other ones, they are like a cup, supposed to fill with epoxy
& push a greased boolit into it for a custom fit. I'll do that sooner or later for my
HP boolits but the flat punch works fine so far, minimal distortion
of boolit noses.

[FergusonTO35]

Well I finally got me a .380 to try these boolits in, a Kahr CT380. I'm still planning to get a Glock 42, the Kahr just had a certain appeal to me and is almost $100.00 cheaper. Last night I loaded up some sized .357 dip lubed in LLA/mineral spirits over 2.6 grains HP-38 at .958 OAL. One thing I noticed immediately is that the Lee seat and crimp die produces a very consistent OAL with this boolit, even though the seater plug uses a round nose style cavity. Hope to try them out soon.