J Stevens Favorite

[Wayne Smith]

A friend of mine in choir handed me a bag and asked what I could do with it. It is a J Stevens Favorite, the first one I have ever handled. The firing pin is missing, the lever hangs loose, and I could not see light through the barrel. I have had it since Wed. and have only worked on the barrel. After punching out the obstruction I ran Endorust, Hoppes, and Ballistol and wore out a brass brush. There is actually rifling in there!

This was found by the buyers of his father's house in Penn. None of the family claimed it, so it was put up over that door frame at least 60 years ago!

OK, where can I find a schematic or takedown/reassembly instructions? GunParts (Numrich) doesn't list one.

How do I determine the model? GunParts lists at least four different variations.

It looks simple, but I assume that there is a spring missing as well as the firing pin. I doubt the hammer is supposed to be as loose as it is. On, the striker is in the block, or at least there is a piece for the hammer to hit. It is the firing pin that is missing.

I am going to take it down, it would be nice to have some instructions.

[starmac]

I don't know if this helps any, but I have the second edition of exploded firearms drawings. In it the only one it actually calls the stevens favorite is the model 71. The savage models 72 and 74 look basically the same, but there is some differences and the book does not call them the favorite. On all three models the firing pin doesn't have a seperate block, it looks to be one piece and just ha a spring and a pin to hold it in place.

If I can figure out how to copy the pages I could mail you the exploded drawings.

[starmac]

Well it worked fairly well, I printed out the exploded views and parts lists. If you want to pm me a mailing address I will get them to you.

[Wayne Smith]

Thanks, Starmac, if and when you ever get close to a library think of me. However I am likely to be to mine much sooner, and there is this thing called interlibrary loan. If any library has it I can borrow it! Just post the ISBN # if it has one, or the full title and author or editor and date of publication.

I did answer one of my questions - I did say I had only dealt with the barrel. I took the stock off and, low and behold, on the top strap it says Model 1915!

For all I know the firing pin broke and left a piece behind, maybe because the hammer peened it enough to not come out.

[starmac]

The book is, The gun digest book of exploded firearms drawings...... second edition.
Edited by Harold A Murtz

These copies I am sending you may or may not help, as they are for a Model 71, 72 and 74. The book has no mention of a 1915.
On these there is a separate hammer block that pins to the trigger and goes up through the action to block the firing pin.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I recall the American Rifleman magazine printed a 2 page exploded schematic of the Favorite once. This was about 20 years ago. I remember this as I used the schematic to identify parts for my then project gun. Robert

[Pavogrande]

The American Gunsmith oct94 has a good article on rebuilding the 1915 favorite --
The 1915 has a coil mainspring wilst the older model has a flat spring -
As I recall drooping lever is caused by slop in the link holes --
Since the screws are the pivots, oversize screwes or bushings for the holes are made.
The firing pin is a slip fit in the block, retained by a cross pin.
I can probably dig the mag out of storage and make a copy --

PS.
There are only two springs -- coil main and flat trigger -
Firing pin is one piece --

[Wayne Smith]

Slop in the link holes makes sense to me, that is wear. The Martini my gunsmith is building for me has the same problem, he will bush the holes.
Gunparts has both the firing pin and the forearm, I assume that is what the threaded hole in the barrel is for. I'll talk to Sam and see if he is willing to put any money into this.
Oversize screws have to be made or are there standard graduations of oversize available?

[starmac]

Must be a whole different animal than the drawings I have. The 71 favorite only has one screw in the action at all, and it is the breech block screw, everything else is pinned.

[Chev. William]

Hello!,
The Stevens favorite series 1915 Actions are 'slightly stronger' versions of the earlier 1886-1889 and 1894 series actions and are of the 'Pivoting Block' style as they have a Breech Block Pivot Screw forward of the Breech face. In the original 1915, the Breech Block Pivot screw is .231" diameter, and increase form the 1894s .167" diameter screw. The 1915 original Lever Pivot screw, along with the 1894 Screw, is .187" diameter. the hammer and trigger screws are are smaller in diameter but I do not have their dimensions in front of me at this time.
As previously Posted, the firing pin design is one piece machined with a flat on it to allow a cross pin to retain it in the Breech block while allowing it to slide in its bore.
!915 Breech Blocks are reported to be nominal .550" wide.
I have a modified/upgraded 1915 action that a previous owner fitted with a .600" wide Breech Block, a Spring retracted firing pin, and two enlarged and high strength steel Alloy Breech Block Pivot (.250" diameter) and Lever Pivot (.231" diameter) Screws.
The barrel Tenon should be about .660" Diameter, or slightly smaller than the receiver Socket bore.
Teh markings on the barrel should give you an idea of the era of manufacture as early ones are marked "J. Stevens A. & T. Co.", middle era are marked "J. Stevens Arms Co." and late ones were marked with the name 'Savage' added, after Stevens was acquired by Savage in about 1920.
The Stevens Barrels were reported to be accurate shooters in general so if you have rifling visible in your barrels for most of the length you probably will have a decent shooter. If i tis strong rifling full length with few corrosion pits or shadow rings evident you may have a excellent shooter.
The availability of cartridges depends upon what caliber it is marked for.
IF "22 Long Rifle" the availability is current production.
IF "22 WRF" the availability is still current, seasonal, production.
IF "25 Stevens" or "25 Stevens Short" it is out of production but occasionally may be found at Gun Shows or in on-line auctions. Alternatively, you could obtain 'adapter' cases and sue .22 Caliber blanks to 'prime' Black Powder or Smokeless Powder charges behind either round balls or cast bullet or even jacketed bullets of nominal .251" diameters. Another possible route is to convert to Center Fire, and sue reformed .22 Hornet cases trimmed to the correct length and hand loaded to duplicate original cartridge ballistics, typically 950fps to 1100fps.
IF "32 Long" or "32 Short" it is for the 32 RF cartridge family, similar in diameters to the .32 Colt family (NOT the .32 S&W Family). Colt cases my be machined to accept .22 Blanks, centered with a 'cut' in the rim to allow the firing pin to fully strike the Rimfire Blanks rim and crush it before contacting the brass adapter case rim. Alternatively, Dixie Gun Works, and others, sell machined brass Adapter cases with off set .22 Rimfire holes that position the RF rim at the side of the Adapter so a firing pin hits it also.
"Wisner's" has an online Web site that includes descriptions of the actions and parts to more easily identify which particular Stevens action you have and they also make and sell some repair parts.
"Hunters Supply" (look up web site) make replacement screws for the actions, but not ALL screws for ALL action series, cal lthem to fine out what they have for your action.
Dixie Gun Works also 'lists' some screws and parts for Stevens actions, but usually they are 'out of Stock' adn dixie does notallow 'back orders'.
There are several Threads on different Forums that discuss the Stevens Favorite actions and rifles and the process others hav egone through getting them to "Speak" again. Examples are "CAS City", "ASSRA Forums", "CastBoolits" Forums, "Shooters Forums", and "Ammoguide Interactive" Forums amopung others. The particular Threads may be found by searching each Forum using the terms "Stevens Favorite", ".25 Stevens", ".32 Long", and similar terms.
The Author Frank de Haas Book "Single Shot Rifles and Actions" and the "Jack First" Catalog have diagrams of the actions.
Ebay, GunGroker, Gun Auctions, and similar on-line auction sites periodically have Stevens parts offered do keep an eye on them for any needed parts not found elsewhere.
Good luck with this interesting project and don't give up. it IS possible to get your rifle to 'Speak' again in Safe condition for many years of enjoyable shooting.
Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Mk42gunner]

The January and March 2013 issues of Rifle magazine had articles about rebuilding the Favorite.

Robert

[tomsp8]

Hey, Wayne! This is Tom, met you last year at your house. I happen to have a Stevens Favorite as well, but mine is the
earlier model of 1894. Was given to me this past summer. Not as knowledgeable on these as Chev. William is, I'm sure, but I have learned quite a bit over the last several months for sure! I'm in the beginning stages of handloading for it, and was actually thinking of contacting you to see what your experiences are with heeled bullets and black powder.
Fortunately, mine only needed a new firing pin to make it shootable! There are several members talking about these, I'm sure they will
chime in shortly.

[uscra112]

Frank deHaas Single Shot Rifles and Actions. Hard to find, but the most thorough writeup I know of.

[Wayne Smith]

This one is in 22 Long Rifle and has the J Stevens Arms Co on it. The action is very loose. The barrel has rifling the full length once I got it cleaner. I put some Isso paste down it and it almost looks like a rifle barrel!

I pulled the action apart. The block action screw only turns about half a turn before it lets go - way too little. The holes in the block are worn oval. The lever block, where the screw goes through, is two diameter. The left side is much larger than the hole on the right side. It almost looks like there should be a bushing in there and isn't. I assume the little lip in the middle between them is the extractor.

All in all, I would say that this gun has seen a lot of use.

[tomsp8]

Here ya go Wayne: http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/stevens_favorite_rifles.htm
Thought it was from Brownells earlier, but actually found this from the Wisners site while researching and trying to identify mine originally. Pretty good info on the Favorites.
Tom

[mikeym1a]

Frank deHaas Single Shot Rifles and Actions. Hard to find, but the most thorough writeup I know of.

Try this, for 'Mr Single Shot's Gunsmithing Idea Book' by Frank Dehass

http://www.scribd.com/doc/24995094/Frank-de-Haas-Mr-Single-Shot-s-Guns-Idea-Book

[John Allen]

Here is a page that should help
http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/stevens_favorite_rifles.htm

[Chev. William]

Mr. Smith,
Yes it sounds like you are missing a bushing in the Lever Pivot hole.
Stevens decided to 'simplify' the manufacture of the lever by boring the 'clearance cut' for the extractor/ejector from one side then pressing in a bushing to reduce the 'side hole' to fit the pivot screw. This boring and bushing saved a more time consuming milling cut to gain the clearance required for the extractor/ejector end.
As far as I know, no supplier is making this bushing for sale at the moment but if you look on the various auction sites you should be able to buy a used lever or lever assembly, for the 1915 series action for a reasonable price.

As you say your rifle is a .22 Long Rifle chambered one you will have reasonable access to modern Commercial ammunition. Unless you refit your action with stronger screws and pins I suggest you avoid the higher end high velocity/pressure loadings. Subsonic or standard Velocity .22 ammo should give you very good performance without over stressing the original screws and pins.
A Breech Block (BB) should be easy to find on the various auction sites. If your link and lever also have 'oval' holes there are three alternate ways to proceed: 1. find used replacements for the parts with the 'oval' holes; or 2. make/buy over size screws and pins and ream the holes oversize to fit; and 3. Drill the holes bigger and fit bushings to bring the holes to round and original size. Number two may be the most expedient way to get your BB Pivot screw to have more 'bite' in the side of the receiver frame. There are some thread pitch and dimension problems with the Stevens screws as it has been reported that they are not made to published thread standards, which is reasonable as threads were not standardized until WW1 and then only for general use fasteners, not the custom use ones of Stevens Firearms.
IF you do make, or have made, replacement screws may i recommend starting with a long NAS high Strength precision bolt or screw and using a standard modern thread for each. At a rated strength of over 160ksi yield they should be very long lived in your Stevens action.
My own 1915 receiver is fitted with a .250" diameter BB pivot screw and a .231" Lever pivot screw.

Best Regards,
Chev. William


This one is in 22 Long Rifle and has the J Stevens Arms Co on it. The action is very loose. The barrel has rifling the full length once I got it cleaner. I put some Isso paste down it and it almost looks like a rifle barrel!

I pulled the action apart. The block action screw only turns about half a turn before it lets go - way too little. The holes in the block are worn oval. The lever block, where the screw goes through, is two diameter. The left side is much larger than the hole on the right side. It almost looks like there should be a bushing in there and isn't. I assume the little lip in the middle between them is the extractor.

All in all, I would say that this gun has seen a lot of use.

[uscra112]

Photos would be a lot of help.

[Wayne Smith]

Thanks, guys, I will follow those threads. As of now I will wait until I talk to Sam probably on Wed. and see what he wants to do with this one. As good used ones in excellent shape seem to be in the asking range of 250-350 on Gunbroker I don't know if he will pursue this or not.

PS: I'm a psychologist, not a machinist. Anything I put in this will be made or easily made with hand tools. I think I can drill out the broken firing pin a la DeHaas plan and solder in a piece of drill or music wire. I do have a numbered drill set and a drill motor and a drill press.

[Chev. William]

A Question on service techniques has occurred to me about the 1915 Stevens Action and it's coil type main, or hammer, Spring assembly and dis-assembly. What is the safe way you experienced owners have used to perform this activity?

I have not yet taken my 1915 action main spring assembly out so I have no experience with it.

My M1 Carbine main spring gave me trouble until I learned the 'trick' used to reinstall it but that 'trick' would not work with the Stevens Spring assembly due to different design of the parts.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Chev. William]

Wayne,
I hope your friend decides to let you finish bringing his rifle back to service.

RE: the worn Breech Block pivot holes and 'short thread engagement' pivot screw. My suggestion would be to consider replacing the pivot screw with a .2500" diameter one made from a High strength NAS (National Aerospace Standard) quality Bolt with a modern fine thread and then boring/threading the action and Breech Block (BB) to fit. The NAS bolt should have a large enough head to allow machining it to a thin slot head to follow the Stevens type design and you should make sure the un-threaded body is long enough to go through Both 'ears' of the Breech Block and nearly to the inside wall of the Receiver.

RE: Lever missing side bushing. I believe making a bushing out of, say 4130 Alloy steel rod, and then heat treating it would give a very good and long lived bushing. The original 1915 Lever screw was nominal 3/16" diameter so a replacement could be made from a long NAS High Strength screw if you can match the thread pitch, or you could also go to a larger diameter provided it is within the limits of existing mating parts capabilities. I do know that the extractor bore was usually .193" or so, and usually will allow boring out to .231" (Number 1 Drill size) the same as the original BB pivot screw. But if you feel that is too much you could make a pivot screw from some Drill Rod of another size and cut threads to fit the receiver, possibly making the pivot screw with a Stepped body so the un-threaded body goes all the way through the lever and near to the inside wall of the receiver yet the threaded portion would be the size of the original threads.

As to my latest activity,Yesterday I was able to get some Lathe time in my Friends Shop and did the initial Cutting of Tenons on two Ebay Purchased Barrels. The Tenons are now the diameter to fit Stevens 1894 and 1915 Action sockets (.665" diameter) and about 1.550" long to leave some
extra to allow adjusting head space and extractor cuts.

The First barrel was a Winchester 1885 'low wall' take off used barrel in .32 Short RF With a Tapered Octagon exterior. It slugs .302" Bore/.307" Groove and should finish up about 25-1/2" long. I plan to have it chambered for .32 Long RF/.32 Long Colt CF but sligtly long to accommodate reformed .32 S&W Long Brass with "299153" 90 Grain heeled bullets (this reformed bras comes out about .93" long and the bullet has a combined Driving bands length of about .140" so the chamber needs to accommodate a round with about 1.08" or so body length).

The other barrel was a Stevens Model 44 Half Octagon-Half Round style that the previous owner had 'bastardized' by beginning to cut a new Tenon that trimmed it where Manufacturer Roll marking now reads "J. Steven" instead of "J. Stevens A & T Co." and it is now about 22-3/4" long when finished. This is the heavier '44' diameter/Octagon so will be larger than the width of the 1915 Stevens Action and would be like a 'short Bull Barrel' for Bench Rest shooting. It presently slugs about .249" Bore/.257" Groove diameters so I will need to find some heeled 65 to 90 grain bullets to fit both the bore and work with some ".25 Stevens Long" sized CF cases I have made from .22 Hornet Brass. The Diameters would be about .251" heel and .258" Driving band(s) and RFN or SWC nose configuration.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Wayne Smith]

Oh well, Sam said put it back together and return it to him. If we get snow on Wed. (4-6" forecast) I'll probably do it then.

[Chev. William]

Wayne,
Oh well, the owner is the controlling party. Perhaps at some later date he will reconsider now that there is a viable way to get it 'Speaking' again with little or no change to its historic condition.

Alternatively, you could consider watching for a 'Shooter' one on the various Gun Auction web sites and purchase one for your own collection and enjoyment.

Best Regards,
Chev. William

[Wayne Smith]

It looks to me as if the spring has to be retained in a compressed position to re-mount. As a reminder, this is the hammer spring in a 1915 model. The end of the rod of the stirrup piece, on which the spring rides, does go into the bushing on the end. However, it is a relatively tight fit and there is no option to use it to compress the spring by pushing down on it as the two come together. Tolerances won't allow.

The only other potential option is that the block on which the bushing rests is a screw. It is accessed through the top tang hole. I do not currently have a screwdriver that will go through that hole. I do not think that loosening it will provide enough movement to mount the spring, however. I'm back to compressing a strong coil spring and holding it long enough to put the stirrup into the action and connect it to the bushing.

Can somebody who has the DeHaas books see if he has any suggestions?

[Bent Ramrod]

Sorry for previous post. I didn't read far enough along and couldn't remember any reassembly problems with the 1915's I had years ago.

According to de Haas: reinstall the trigger and trigger spring and install the hammer and put it at half cock. Put the action in a vise, holding by the lower tang. Insert the yoke and mainspring against the hammer. Grasping the sleeve with pliers, or better still pushing it with a large stubby screwdriver, push it over the yoke and compress the mainspring until the sleeve end slips over the stud screw.

[Chev. William]

A-HA! Thank you for the de Haas Quote on installing the 1915 hammer spring.

Best Regards,
Chev. William