Mould lube [Archive] - Cast Boolits

geargnasher

01-16-2014, 01:10 AM

One of the neat things about the polyolester oils is their extremely low evaporation rate. They also leave very, very little residue when they DO evaporate, yet have an extremely high film strength for the viscosity.

Something I will caution against is buying the ester oil brand that contains "Ice 32" as an additive. I've determined that Ice 32 must be some sort of high-powered surfacant and will allow one drop of ester oil to instantly thin and coat an entire mould, inside and out, in about .002 seconds. That must be how it works to make the refrigerant more effective at heat absorption: By ensuring the oil/refrigerant mix thoroughly wets the inside surfaces of the heat transfer elements in the air conditioning system. Stick with the straight, ISO 100 or 150 ester oil such as Btroj pictured and you will not be disappointed.

PS for those not yet familiar with the technique, instructions for proper and effective mould lubrication are discussed in a sticky thread in the mould maintenance/design forum.

Gear

btroj

01-16-2014, 08:52 AM

.....

MBTcustom

01-16-2014, 01:49 PM

I have been using this stuff for about the past 6 months since Gear told me about it.
It is absolutely the best stuff I have ever put on a mold bar none.
All the 2cycle oils (and similar products) that I have used in the past have occasionally migrated to the edge of the cavities, at which point they immediately started causing poor base fill out and wrinkles. This stuff migrates even faster, but does not seem to have any ill effect on the boolit bases unless I really biff it and get a lot of it in the cavities somehow. It just rides on top of the mold and does it's job.
It appears to leave almost no brown residue on the mold also, which is simply amazing. It's almost like it just ignores the heat of the mold and doesn't out gas or something.
I love the feel of the mold with this lube in place as well you get to feel the "snick" when you slide the sprue plate over (Just a personal enjoyment that means exactly zip).

I got mine right up the street at Advanced Auto for less than $15 IIRC.
I have passed this to several other members and they all agree that they are sold and won't go back.

Thanks for researching this Brad! Good information, learned from a lot of hard work.

gray wolf

01-16-2014, 04:59 PM

OK I guess I don't no how to use Google, how the heck do I find this stuff ?
I have no auto parts stores near me.

Jailer

01-16-2014, 05:12 PM

Does it creep enough to get up under the sprue plate pivot point and prevent galling?

doctorggg

01-16-2014, 05:21 PM

Thanks for the info guys. It will be my next purchase tomorrow.

jmort

01-16-2014, 05:25 PM

Fortunately or unfortunately I have a good amount of Redline 2 cycle ester based oil, and enough to last a long while. It works real good. I would go with the 100% Ester if I buy some new mold oil.

geargnasher

01-16-2014, 06:23 PM

Does it creep enough to get up under the sprue plate pivot point and prevent galling?

Yes, but use sparingly. Once you put too much, it will haunt you for a while.

Gear

btroj

01-16-2014, 07:52 PM

.....

MBTcustom

01-16-2014, 09:38 PM

I confess, I didn't know anything about the ICE additive being undesirable till Gear just mentioned it. This is the stuff I'm using now, and even with the ICE sufactant, it's better than anything I've used up to this point. Wait......you mean if I get the stuff in the OP it get's better?!?!?!?!

93715

btroj

01-16-2014, 09:58 PM

.....

geargnasher

01-16-2014, 10:07 PM

I had tried just that very stuff, Tim, along with a variety of pure base-stock PAOs and PAGs, and was impressed with most of it but not with how it wicked everywhere I didn't want it on a hot mould. Brad tried the Carquest stuff (since I'd talked him into buying some sort of AC ester oil for lube experiments :evil:) and reported it was fantastic on moulds. I went back and tried some pure POE 150 base I had on hand and found he was right, it really did the trick. No more two-stroke oil for me, and no more dark varnish on my beautiful custom moulds.

Gear

btroj

01-16-2014, 10:12 PM

.....

MBTcustom

01-16-2014, 10:12 PM

no more dark varnish on my beautiful custom moulds.

Gear

That truly is the best part of this stuff.

btroj

01-16-2014, 10:15 PM

.....

btroj

01-16-2014, 10:23 PM

If anyone is interested in understanding why this stuff is so good here is some good reading.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1252272#Post1252272

Sadly Gear turned me onto this site too.

My wife laughs about the fact I spend so much time online talking to strangers about lubrication......

gray wolf

01-17-2014, 01:32 PM

http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10651&langId=-1&pageSize=10&beginIndex=0&searchSource=Q&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=1&showResultsPage=true&pageView=image&hdrSearchType=keyword&searchTerm=super+premium+ester

The link above is for Car quest, but it shows a bunch of oils that are super ester. Can someone point me to the correct one to get. I can order it from a store lewiston Maine
Sorry I don't know about all these things so help is appreciated.

Sam

btroj

01-17-2014, 09:20 PM

http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_CARQUEST+Chemicals+Super+Premium+Ester+Oil %2C+ISO+100+-+Treats+R-134a+Refrigerant%2C+8+oz+bottle%2C+sold+by+each__1 0151_-1_10651_1425411_?acesApp=0

This one should do. The part number should get you what you want. 8 ounces will last you quite a while.

gray wolf

01-17-2014, 10:49 PM

Thank's but that link just takes me to the opening page for car quest and tewlls me nothing. Did I miss it ? Never mind I got it, part #CQE7
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_CARQUEST+Chemicals+Super+Premium+Ester+Oil %2C+ISO+100+-+Treats+R-134a+Refrigerant%2C+8+oz+bottle%2C+sold+by+each__1 0151_-1_10651_1425411_?acesApp=0

btroj

01-17-2014, 11:02 PM

That looks like the stuff. You will not be disappointed.

igolfat8

01-18-2014, 01:51 PM

In addition to this lube, should a noobie still use the smoke method to lube the cavities or is there a specific lube to use within each cavity? Does the ester oil go between the sprue plate and the top of the mold and does it help to shear the sprue easier? I have 2 Lee 6 cavity molds but have not used them yet.

btroj

01-18-2014, 03:10 PM

First off, don't smoke a mould. It isn't needed.

Ok, where and how to lube the mould.

Get the mould hot first. Use a hot plate, dip in the melt, or whatever, just get the mould hot.

Get a Q-tip and dip the very end in the oil. The swab only needs to be barely damp, soaking wet is going to be bad. With the sprue plate and mould open apply a tiny bit to the alignment pins and the holes they mate with. Be careful to not get any on the faces of the mould, getting it there increases the chance of having it creep into the mould cavities. Close the mould but leave the sprue plate open. Press the damp end of the q-tip to the area where the pivot screw is but on the side away from the cavities. The point of this is to get some under the plate where or pivots but reduce the chance of getting it in the cavities. Now lightly wipe the swab across the top outside edges of the block, keep it away from the cavities. I also like to apply a bit to the underside of the sprue plate along the outer edges.

Close the mould and get casting.

This will not make cutting the sprue easier as the effort required is far more related to lead hardness and how solidified the sprue is than it does with friction.

I reapply anytime the sprue plate seems to be getting a bit draggy. A quick swipe of the already damp swab overt he top of the mould does it. If the mould gets difficult to open or close reapply to the alignment pins and sockets.

I find that the swab can last a few casting sessions before more oil needs to be applied, it requires that small an amount.

If you can easily see a lube film on the mould you used way too much. This can be wiped away with a dry swab, just keep it out of the cavities.

Should some get in the cavities it will evaporate a way with some casting. This oil leaves almost no residue so a cleaning of the mould isn't really required.

On a 6 cavity Lee I also like to apply some to the areas where the plate contacts the screw near the pivot point on the handle. Pretty much anywhere that two mould surfaces slide along each other can be lubed. Keep it off the inner mould faces and out of the cavities and you should be fine.

Don't forget the lightly oil the handle screws with the same stuff, it makes removing them far easier.

cbrick

01-19-2014, 06:35 PM

Question, I went into town this morning & went to all four auto parts stores. Two of the stores only had ester with ICE 32 and yellow UV die. The other two stores had ester without ICE 32 but still had the UV die. I bought 2 bottles, one from each store that didn't have the ICE, one for me and one for winelover (john).

Will the die leave a residue?

Rick

btroj

01-19-2014, 06:37 PM

Mine has the dye, no residue. Those UV dies work at such low concentrations that they aren't relevant for our use. I bet there is about a drop of dye per 4 to 8 ounces of oil, if that much.

Let me know how you like this stuff.

cbrick

01-19-2014, 06:39 PM

Let me know how you like this stuff.

Will do, just as soon as I learn how to cast? :(

Rick

btroj

01-19-2014, 06:43 PM

Have Tim teach you?

dragon813gt

01-19-2014, 06:45 PM

You should take a UV light to your molds to see how much dye is on them. Trust me, I work in the HVAC field for a living and it has a habit of getting all over everything. While I doubt the dye would be harmful. I have no desire to have it all over my tools and work area. My dye injection tools are segregated to their own box and they're in a box inside a box inside a box. The dye really gets everywhere.

btroj

01-19-2014, 06:46 PM

I don't have a UV lamp but that would be interesting.

Maybe ignorance is bliss?

MBTcustom

01-19-2014, 07:01 PM

Hmmm, it just so happens I have a powerful benchtop UV light source (I think it was used to cure UV epoxy) it'll burn the hair off a dogs.... Nevermind.
I may grab a bottle of the UV ****e and see what it looks like under the UV.
Hey! I should be able to see if there is a crack in the mold eh? LOL!

geargnasher

01-19-2014, 07:08 PM

You will need some spectrum-blocking glasses to see the dye as it is intended. With the right wavelength gear, it will light up like the 4th of July. Dragon ain't joking, that UV dye (concentrated in oil for leak diagnostics) will get all over absolutely everything. The dose put in the AC oil is probably about 1/32 to 1/64 the strength of what we use for injection, so it's less obvious.

I had a flourescene angiogram one time, they shot me up with about an ounce of that stuff and took pictures of my retinas to check for leaks. I joked with the doc that medical science apparently wasn't too far ahead of automotive diagnostic technology. The urinal I used when I left the opthamologist's office is probably still flourescent yellow.

Gear

igolfat8

01-19-2014, 07:15 PM

Tim,
Is your light white in color? I believe you have to have a black or blue light to see the dye.

dragon813gt

01-19-2014, 07:17 PM

The glasses make it glow like a beacon. You can see dye w/out them if the room is dark. The color will be dull instead of fluorescent. The color is either orange of along the lines of High Visibility Yellow/Green. The Yellow/Green is a lot easier to see.

I realize the concentration is a lot less then a tube full of a few ounces of the dye. But even when it's mixed w/ the oil it gets all over everything. Just giving a friendly warning so to speak, LOL.

btroj

01-19-2014, 07:21 PM

I best stay out of the dance clubs after casting?

MBTcustom

01-19-2014, 07:30 PM

The light has a blue look to it, but I have been cautioned to never look at it without the right glasses on,or it will burn my eyeballs.

dragon813gt

01-19-2014, 07:37 PM

The light I have is a blue/purple in color. Mine came w/ the same warning. So what was the first thing I did. I looked at the light and then realized that was a really dumb thing to do ;)

MBTcustom

01-19-2014, 07:51 PM

It's hypnotic........isn't it?.....

I was actually hoping (if I found the right dye) that I could use the light to check actions for stress fractures etc. I just haven't gotten off my bum and figured out what the right dye is yet.

btroj

01-19-2014, 07:55 PM

Tim, would this oil work? Apply to action, rinse well with solvent, look for cracks?

To think all this because some guy with a Texas size hat tells me to go buy something......

MBTcustom

01-19-2014, 07:57 PM

BTW, Rick, If you would like, I can show you how to cast boolits with that nice "lube pressure relief divot" on the bottoms of them. LOL!
I'm still trying to get a clean cut on the sprue plate. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to say heck with it, and throw in 2% tin, but I remain stalwart in my resolve!
:kidding:

MBTcustom

01-19-2014, 08:00 PM

Tim, would this oil work? Apply to action, rinse well with solvent, look for cracks?

To think all this because some guy with a Texas size hat tells me to go buy something......

You gotta watch those texans now. NEVER go into a used car dealership in Texas. You're gonna get a guy with cowboy boots that could smash a cockroach in a corner, a big white stetson, munching on a big cigar, and you'll drive out of there in a Ford Pinto wondering "what happened?!?!"

cbrick

01-19-2014, 08:10 PM

BTW, Rick, If you would like, I can show you how to cast boolits with that nice "lube pressure relief divot" on the bottoms of them. LOL!

That could be an interesting lesson, I am kinda curious as to just how you do that. :mrgreen:

Don't get tin anywhere near your lead. Just to be sure that doesn't happen send it all to me and I will guarantee you it'll not get near YOUR lead.

Rick

MBTcustom

01-19-2014, 08:22 PM

That could be an interesting lesson, I am kinda curious as to just how you do that. :mrgreen:

I'm sure its a skill I have learned over the past 15 years. LOL!
BTW, sgt.Mike was over Saturday and I showed him that baggie of unlubed boolits you sent me. I set the bag on the bench and told him "ya know that guy cbrick on the forum that has all the pretty pictures of boolits? These are from him."
He pulled out a handful and said "geez! What's he mill 'em out of billet?"
Thought you'd enjoy that.
Hah!

btroj

01-19-2014, 08:27 PM

I bet he bought them from Oregon trail........

cbrick

01-19-2014, 08:29 PM

Quality boolit porn requires proper subject matter! :coffeecom

Rick

btroj

01-19-2014, 08:35 PM

So much I could say but won't, I hate to make Tim work hard on a Sunday

smokesahoy

01-19-2014, 08:52 PM

Will this lube work with a carrier as a tumble lube?

btroj

01-19-2014, 08:54 PM

Probably not. It would need to bunch of wax to keep it from over lubing. Get that much wax into the mix and it no longer going to be worth a dang as a tumble lube.

smokesahoy

01-22-2014, 12:13 AM

i'm giving it a shot, gonna shoot the bullets tomorrow.
i picked up http://idqusa.com/product/491/

i tried it already with standard pan lubed and its good, but the test tomorrow will be with tumbled. just playing around though, hf sent the es gun already but there was a massive holdup with the powder coat, still another week out.

the tumbled boolits look great though, not tacky but definitely coated, cant wait to do some leading tests in the am

gonna sand some steel nails and do lube testing too, might make a nice gun lube.
that and i figure i gotta find more uses for that quart of ester 100. just using it on the mold it wont run out, ever. thats a lot of drops.

prs

01-22-2014, 11:40 AM

I found some on Amazon with and without the dye. I got without dye, shipped two day free, with my Prime for less than $7.00. For us folk in rural areas, that is a good deal.

Instead of a cotton tip swab, I have been using one of those long wood (bamboo?) cooking skewers to apply. I use the (very) sharp end to apply the lube very sparingly. Thanks to you guys, I will have a longer lasting product to use. BTW, those long sharp skewers are very handy to have for gun cleaning and other such things.

prs

smokesahoy

01-22-2014, 08:04 PM

Aww I should have checked amazon, I spent 18 bucks for that quart that will never get used up lol. Well I fired off 10 rounds today, at -5 I didn't feel like resetting or getting the target so unsure of accuracy but it didn't lead.

Cloudwraith

01-24-2014, 11:56 AM

I found some on Amazon with and without the dye. I got without dye, shipped two day free, with my Prime for less than $7.00.

Can you tell me which one you went with? I'm going to check my local CarQuest first, otherwise I'll order from Amazon. I just got my first two moulds from Lee and I want to make sure I prep them right the first time.

prs

01-28-2014, 03:35 PM

Can you tell me which one you went with? I'm going to check my local CarQuest first, otherwise I'll order from Amazon. I just got my first two moulds from Lee and I want to make sure I prep them right the first time.

Sure, but I will need to look at the bottle later and get back to you.

prs

prs

01-28-2014, 06:43 PM

FJC 2408 @ $6.69 delivered. I ordered the white 8oz bottle and received the black bottle, which was priced much higher; but same product number. Go figure?

prs

kryogen

03-04-2014, 08:28 AM

will try it on friday.

I use anti seize compound, but it burns, and eventually stops "lubing", and just makes a film that dries up and falls. I dont really like that, plus it's messy.

SSGOldfart

04-01-2014, 07:57 AM

Humm learn a little more every day are we sure these guys aren't auto part saleman:coffeecom:wink:, I've been to Oreally's enough they are starting use my first name!!!!!!!!!Humm lets see Nu finish wax, Evaporust rust remover,WD40,break cleaner,TWC-3 outboard oil and now Ester Oil any thing I forgot LOL:lol::lol:

gray wolf

04-02-2014, 03:05 PM

and now Ester Oil any thing I forgot LOL
Yes---more Ester Oil

Cloudwraith

04-07-2014, 07:45 PM

no more dark varnish on my beautiful custom moulds.

Ok, so this is the stuff I purchased:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1264960/pics/cb/carquest.jpg

After 3 casting sessions this is what my mold looks like :(

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1264960/pics/cb/cqmold.jpg

I'm assuming I used too much lube. Question now is how to get the varnish off? I've tried every solvent I have and even a plastic wire brush on my dremel. No joy....

btroj

04-07-2014, 08:09 PM

Way too much.

Try some bore solvent, works well for me if I get too much. It also helps to get the mould warm and let heat loosen the stuff up a bit.

igolfat8

04-07-2014, 08:50 PM

Mine looks the same after using the Ester oil as well.

btroj

04-08-2014, 09:49 PM

If you have a varnish like that then you used way too much. I dip just the very tip of a swab in the oil and that is enough for more than a dozen casting sessions. I just keep the swab sitting there and wipe it over the surfaces needing lubrication from time to time.

Literally a single drop is enough for one mould for at least a dozen separate applications and even that is too much.

freebullet

04-09-2014, 05:59 AM

Way to much lube and loosen yer sprue plate the mold is getting damaged. Almost looks like a brass mold there for a minute. After you lube wipe it off with the dry end of the q tip.

That dye does get everywhere...everywhere. It may be considered tactical because it takes a special lamp to see it or does it qualify as lrp?

MBTcustom

04-09-2014, 06:54 AM

You just can't douse a mold in lube that way, I don't care if you're using bullplate or anything else!

I cast with a gloved hand. In order to lube the mold, I put the lube on the thumb of my glove by grabbing the bottle, plugging the spout with my thumb and turning it upside down for a second. I set the bottle back on the bench, and now my thumb is oily. I rub my fingers together to spread the oil out, and the leather soaks it in nicely.
this way, If I ever need lube on the face of the mold, I just swipe my thumb over the mold block faces. Even though the glove looks dry, it's saturated with this oil, and allows me to lay down a very thin film without breaking my pace at all.

omgb

04-20-2014, 07:59 PM

What happens if I mix it with Bee's wax and use it as a BP bullet lube? Inquiring minds want to know.

MBTcustom

04-20-2014, 10:15 PM

What happens if I mix it with Bee's wax and use it as a BP bullet lube? Inquiring minds want to know.

Same thing that happens when you mix it with KY jelly: less than admirable results.
LOL!
Sorry, couldn't resist!

omgb

04-20-2014, 10:24 PM

Seriously though, it should make a great BP lube if one added some lanolin to make it hygroscopic.

btroj

04-20-2014, 10:30 PM

It might but it could also be messy as all get out. Who knows, give it a try.

Maybe 2 ounces of the ester oil, an ounce of Ivory soap, heat those til the soap is fully dissolved, it will foam and smoke a bunch. Cool it down and let it gel then add maybe 6 to 8 ounces of beeswax. A tablespoon of lanolin will increase the stickiness a bit.

Give it a shot, never know.

sammorgan3

05-10-2014, 08:36 PM

104505
$9 at OReilly's. Guy there said get it while you can. May not know of what he speaks. Don't know.

1911KY

09-10-2014, 04:13 PM

I bought some of this at Advanced a while back. It's UV100. They have UV150 as well. It does pretty well, but has to be re-applied after about 100 casts or so. It has a very distinct smell when applied to a warm mold.

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/jamesearnett/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140829_005511_zpskm59bhg5.jpg

JimfromTrafalgar

09-12-2014, 04:04 PM

One thing you guys might want to keep in mind.. That ester oil is like a sponge in it's tendency to attract water. Keep the lid closed when not using it and open for as short a time possible. The rule of thumb in using it for refrigeration purposes is absolutely no more than 15 minutes exposure to the atmosphere. Water may not hurt for this purpose, but it's extremely hygroscopic.

Black Powder Bill

08-11-2015, 06:33 PM

Not having a manual in front of me, PAG oil is hydroscopic. I do not think poyol ester is.
I know we hated PAG oil because guys were not cross reference ing and thus plugged up a few chillers. Also one engineer thought he'd save some money and had another group come in for a five year overhaul on a 2,000 ton chiller.
They used the wrong oil and plugged the machine up.

Thanks for the mould lube info. I have used refrigerant grade mineral oil and other syns. Hope this works better.

toallmy

08-12-2015, 04:40 AM

I can't keep up .I just got some bull plate.

Black Powder Bill

08-12-2015, 08:50 AM

What really stinks is I had to purchase a bottle of oil with the uv dye in it.
Last year I was looking at a dozen 55 gallon drums of the oil. Yea sux too cause I'm cheap. I was in a past life a industrial refrigeration operator/tech. I used refrigerant oils in my small air compressor. No wax build up runs clean!!

dragon813gt

08-12-2015, 09:59 AM

What really stinks is I had to purchase a bottle of oil with the uv dye in it.

Don't turn on a blacklight wherever you've been using the oil. The dye gets on everything. I absolutely hate having to insert dye into a system. The stuff is almost as back as Black Jack. No matter how hard you try to keep it off of you it ends up somewhere :mad:

Black Powder Bill

08-12-2015, 07:08 PM

Had a manager tell me that they had then leaks repaired in a chiller. I could see tell tale signs of oil!all over then place. Another expert came up and said, yep we put uv dies in the oil. P
I asked did you loose any charge, ya know did the safety lift. Oh no so I go up on the roof that evening with my black light.

LMAO the roof and half the air handlers glowed like a zombie target. No we never let the chill water pumps run last winter. The blew 3,000 pounds of R22.

popper

08-16-2015, 07:09 PM

Tim, all the car salesmen in Texas are from some foreign country, really. I got the Autozone pint jug of the AC oil - used 2 cycle before. I just smear on the sprue plate, wipe with a paper towel when it's up to temp. I can cast a lot longer before re-lubing. The dye must be like what they put in Visiene eye drops years ago. Really fun to see who used the stuff at the dance hall with black lights, like Halloween.
3,000 pounds of R22 that is a big chunk of change.

dragon813gt

08-16-2015, 08:18 PM

3,000 pounds of R22 that is a big chunk of change.

Right around $30,000 wholesale. You don't want to know what we charge per pound ;)

mac60

08-16-2015, 08:40 PM

Right around $30,000 wholesale. You don't want to know what we charge per pound ;)

We fill the 1 ton cylinders at the plant. The deposit on the cylinder is $4,500.

1johnlb

08-16-2015, 10:37 PM

I'm a refrigeration tech at a industrial food plant. Our system has 43,000 tons of anhydrous ammonia. We use Frick #3 oil in our compressors and I've been trying to figure out what's in it. Evidently, it's a secret. I've recently done some testing with it and 2cyl oil and a propane torch. The 2cyl oil burned away slightly faster and left the surface of a piece of ss sticky and tacky, where the Frick #3 left the surface slick feeling.
I'm dumping about a gallon of this stuff a week in a waste drum, most of which is clean. We have about 5 55 gal drums on hand.
I've got a new mold at the house that I'm planning in using it in.
Does anyone know what this Frick #3 is?
All I can find is " virtually no wax and fully synthetic"

Black Powder Bill

08-17-2015, 09:12 AM

Don't know what Frick is . I always thought ammonia used a mineral or petro base oil? BUT with that said ,I have never worked on ammonia compressors outside of the class room.

Frick #3 msds shows it is petroleum based?? here is the msds from Sunoco http://www.sfm.state.or.us/CR2K_SubDB/MSDS/FRICK_OIL_3.PDF

Here is another companies add for their oil comparing it to Frick http://apcco.net/userfiles/files/APCCO%20Lubrication%20.pdf

I use to like to deal with a outfit in Rochester NY named Davis Howland oil and coal. They could mix any ones blend and did do the distribution for all the chiller, pump, turbine oils. At a whole heck of a lot lower price than that 55 gallon drum of Trane , York or Carrier labeled oil.

1johnlb

08-17-2015, 06:51 PM

Frick is a manufacturer of the major a/c components for anhydrous equipment. Frick #3 is just a oil sold under their name.

Well, those data sheets say parrifinic, which definitely isn't synthetic. Need to go recheck the labels on those drums and see where I got synthetic from.

Oleman

10-02-2015, 05:44 PM

This is the stuff I like.

150303

Drew P

11-27-2015, 12:07 PM

Okay I'm interested in this oil thing. Looking at Amazon I see 3 choices that seem economical and dye and ice free, however I feel uninformed enough that I can't narrow past that. Or maybe all three are unacceptable so let me know.

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2468-PAG-Oil-fl/dp/B0002JMEIA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1448640292&sr=8-6&keywords=ester+oil&refinements=p_76%3A2661625011

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2408-Estercool-Oil-bottle/dp/B000OCHBFQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1448640292&sr=8-7&keywords=ester+oil&refinements=p_76%3A2661625011

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-2484-PAG-Oil-fl/dp/B0002JMEJ4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1448640292&sr=8-4&keywords=ester+oil&refinements=p_76%3A2661625011

Cosmic_Charlie

03-16-2018, 11:21 AM

I find if I smoke the cavities and keep in the right temp zone they mostly fall out. I also have been using a cotton rag lightly empregnated with two stroke oil to wipe the underside of the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks - no lead smear.

JRHYS

04-18-2018, 09:23 AM

Sorry, but the first part of this thread is blank. What are you using to lube molds. Thanks.

smilin jack

04-04-2019, 09:26 PM

We tried disk brake high temp lube on the sprue cutter and locating pins. Applied just a tiny bit to a hot mold using a round pointed toothpick. The lube says good to 700*F temp.
It was working dandy until the lead pot heater quit. Have ordered a new pot and repair parts for the old one.

Have had great luck smoking the mold cavities with a candle flame. Most of the 6 slugs drop free and seldom require tapping the handle hinge pin.

Was making 230g 452 with the Lee Truncated Cone gang mold, and Lee 188g 312 1R, sizing to 310 and lubing with my old 450 Lyman and hard red wax that came from a local caster. A heater is required so made one using 1/8" aluminum mounting plate that sticks out the back side with a garage sale clothes iron for heat. Works OK. The wax likes around 100 to 110*F to easily flow.

waco

04-06-2019, 04:13 PM