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View Full Version : HELP !!! I have 3800 lbs of pure lead in 3 Chunks --- Need advise please



reddoggm
01-12-2014, 08:14 PM
I,m coming to the Lead authority place How can I cut this lead into small enough pieces to fit in my pot to make Ingots (something I can move around a little easy} I have a 40 lb pot with a 10 inch opening so I,m thinking if I can cut these into 10x10x3ft pieces I can hang em in a chainfall and endo em in the pot untill full and raise it back up for the next refill -----BUT--- how can I rip/cut these monster somewhat easly ?

John Allen
01-12-2014, 08:16 PM
Chainsaw or axe will work.

ACrowe25
01-12-2014, 08:17 PM
Axe should work

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 08:26 PM
I tried an electric chiansaw man that was cutting REAL SLOW and shootin lead chips everywhere until the saw puked I,ll try a sacrafical axe
Have,nt tried a sawzall or portaband anyone ever try one of them ?

DW475
01-12-2014, 08:29 PM
I used a an electric saw to cut some huge lead counter weights that i got out of an old flour mill. Seemed to work well. Had about 20 lbs of lead shavings on the floor when i was done that went into the pot.

joie777
01-12-2014, 08:29 PM
use a cutting torch fast and easy and you can reuse the lead you heated up into liquid when it cools

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 08:36 PM
I used a an electric saw to cut some huge lead counter weights that i got out of an old flour mill. Seemed to work well. Had about 20 lbs of lead shavings on the floor when i was done that went into the pot.
What kind of saw did you use ?

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 08:38 PM
use a cutting torch fast and easy and you can reuse the lead you heated up into liquid when it cools
joie that don,t sound bad either just need to get my tanks filled

WILCO
01-12-2014, 08:41 PM
LIFE IS TOO SHORT. Sell the 3,800lbs. and buy some lead that is more manageable.

DW475
01-12-2014, 08:42 PM
sawzall

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 08:43 PM
Reddoggm, you didn't say what shape their in now? I think you're best off giving them away, to me namely, lol But otherwise if it's sheet lead a machete works very well, if it's block lead perhaps the axe?
BIG chunks they were used in a movie for counter weight in cars to T-Bone a bus Did a real good job too

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 08:45 PM
LIFE IS TOO SHORT. Sell the 3,800lbs. and buy some lead that is more manageable.
Come on WILCO yer taking my escape to the shop time away

WILCO
01-12-2014, 09:11 PM
Come on WILCO yer taking my escape to the shop time away

Some tasks just aren't worth the time and effort. You'd have more fun casting quality boolits from a known alloy. Silly. :)

Green Lizzard
01-12-2014, 09:27 PM
last big chunk (not that big) i cut up with cheapo habor freight air chisel. quick and no saw dust

lightman
01-12-2014, 10:11 PM
I just cut some samples from some lead that I have that I wanted to check the hardness on and my sawzall worked great. Lightman

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 10:22 PM
I knew this was the right place to ask
I,m startin to think WILCO's gonna make me an offer on this 97% Lead Thats what I want to do is get it into Ingots and sell it I already have a couple of thousand lbs of WW lead in ingots I,ve been casting out of so I,ll keep a little of this for BP and slug Boolit making

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 10:25 PM
sawzall

What you use a wood blade ? Bi metal has pretty small teeth in it I would think it would clog pretty quick

smokeywolf
01-12-2014, 10:29 PM
If you're in SoCal, I'd be happy to relieve you of your problem.

smokeywolf

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 10:35 PM
If you're in SoCal, I'd be happy to relieve you of your problem.

smokeywolf
It,s nice to know I have ALOT of Bros on CB lol

lightman
01-12-2014, 10:36 PM
I'm not sure of the tooth count on the blade that I used. It just was the one chucked up in the saw when I grabbed it! It was about 10-12 teeth per inch. Kinda between a coarse metal blade and a fine wood blade. Lightman

sqlbullet
01-12-2014, 10:38 PM
chainsaw is far and away the easiest. I cut up about 2000 lbs of sheet lead that was 1\2 inch thick this way a little more than a year ago. tried an Axe and a reciprocating saw first. by comparison the chainsaw was stupid easy

reddoggm
01-12-2014, 10:39 PM
Thank You lightman!!!

Russel Nash
01-13-2014, 02:24 AM
So what were these chunks originally?

3,800/3 = 1,266 pounds each.

WilliamDahl
01-13-2014, 02:30 AM
This has been discussed quite a bit in other threads.

Do you have a hydraulic log splitter? Some have reported good luck with one of these.

reddoggm
01-13-2014, 08:58 AM
So what were these chunks originally?

3,800/3 = 1,266 pounds each.
These chunks (3 ) are different sizes they were used in the front of cars on a movie set to enhance crashes
one piece is 20x10x36 approx another is a about twice that size and one is only 10x10 x32
these were poured into steel boxes made up custom by FX to fit in 3 different cars I picked them up with a lift truck and dropped em on a steel plate and broke the welds to get the box apart

mold maker
01-13-2014, 10:16 AM
While an electric chain saw may not have enough umph for the job, most gas saws will do a great job. Make sure the teeth are sharp to begin with, and just let the saw do the work without pressing it. A large tarp will contain the shavings, and keep the area lead free.
The wider the tooth on the chain, the more time it takes, and the more shavings created.

JonB_in_Glencoe
01-13-2014, 10:42 AM
I used a 7.25 circle saw with a very thin blade on some large chunks o lead.

reddoggm
01-13-2014, 11:24 AM
I used a 7.25 circle saw with a very thin blade on some large chunks o lead.
That sounds like a good idea I have a beater saw and a thin blade

dikman
01-13-2014, 06:55 PM
I don't think I'd try an oxy cutter. Seems to me you'd have lead fumes coming off at that sort of heat.

TES
01-13-2014, 07:07 PM
do not attempt this....you will quickly tire and be at risk of tomuchleadotitous......its really scary stuff and could cause maritalbitchitude as well as imanenviousbasstardyourabasstardtooforbeingsolucky and should not be attempted by amateurs for these reasons.

cough cough...very serious look....do you want my address to alleviate your future pain and eventual suffering?

TES
01-13-2014, 07:23 PM
seriously though hydraulic press is the best way...rent a log spliter!

lwknight
01-13-2014, 08:04 PM
I don't think I'd try an oxy cutter. Seems to me you'd have lead fumes coming off at that sort of heat.
Never happen. The lead will run off as soon as it melts. It will never get hotter than just melting.

Weed burner workd pretty good but its sloooow to get started then you are going to be hopping swapping catch pans.

Also agree with the "rent a log splitter idea.

reddoggm
01-13-2014, 09:43 PM
Update for ya Tried Circular saw/Sawzall/Portaband not very good Ended up useing an Axe as a wedge and beating it down with a sledge hammer works But I gotta tell ya----BULL WORK I got around 500# done and Ingotized took about 7 hrs but I figure I should be done around August LoL I do own a 26 ton splitter I,m just trying to figure out #1 how not to Crush the splitter with 1000# on it and #2 how I can manuver the chunk on it. I heat with wood so I hate to break an important tool

ACrowe25
01-13-2014, 10:12 PM
You rely on that splitter for you needs... As a result if it was me in my own situation... an axe/wedge/and sledge would be my go to. I've done it. Lots of work but it is worth it no doubt.

country gent
01-13-2014, 10:17 PM
Getting enough localized heat into those blocks will be an issue especially at the start and as the slug shorens and heat transfers any clamp or eye bolts holding it up will weaken and possible let go. Getting it on a stand heavy enough to support the wieght and work on it first. A couple heavy saw horses with 2x6s for a top. I would drill holes in a line thru leaving an 1/8A drill bit sharpened correctly should walk right thru leaving just an 1/8" to cut chiesel thru between them then a heavy chisel can be used to break the remaining bonds. Or a sawz all to cut the webs. Use chalk as a lubricant for the blade to help keep it from loading up. If useing a 3/8' drill punch straight line of holes every 1/2" if using 1/2" drill but every 5/8". The drill chips can be collected and melted down and this leaves much less sawing to be done. Drill should be sharpened as for brass so it dosnt grab / dig into lead as easy. Blocks could set on floor with 2x6s under it to protect floor from drill. Once you get the line of holes in cutting the webs should go much faster. Again use chalk to keep drill from loading up beeswax will also work here.

reddoggm
01-13-2014, 10:58 PM
You rely on that splitter for you needs... As a result if it was me in my own situation... an axe/wedge/and sledge would be my go to. I've done it. Lots of work but it is worth it no doubt.
I,m with you on those thoughts Can,t break my Heat makin machine I have a real nice Modded splitter took alot of time and $$$ to get it the way I have it

jmorris
01-13-2014, 11:09 PM
If I had that much I would get an old air compressor tank with convexed ends and plum into the bottom, or just leave it open and place a section of angle iron under the end cap (tank upright with end removed for loading) and start a camp fire under it.

jmorris
01-13-2014, 11:22 PM
If I could get a bunch of it like that I would make up a double boiler style setup using old paint vats that I have down at the farm.

kind of like the incinerator I built for the house except the top vat would be inverted over the bottom one that held the wood with a drain on the bottom of the one that held the lead going out the side.

dikman
01-14-2014, 12:12 AM
Never happen. The lead will run off as soon as it melts. It will never get hotter than just melting.


You may very well be right, certainly if cutting relatively thin stuff. If you're cutting a very thick chunk, however, it could possibly puddle if you're not careful and at that heat it could possibly be a problem. All I know is I wouldn't do it.

jmorris
01-14-2014, 12:38 AM
Lead will get hotter than melting, it will boil around 3200 degrees F and will vaporize eventually, if you can get it hot enough.

WilliamDahl
01-14-2014, 01:13 AM
An oxy-acetylene cutting torch works by not just melting the steel, but also burning it. That is what happens when you press the cutting lever on the torch. Now, if you just set it to a neutral flame and let the molten puddle drip down, you would not have a problem with lead fumes, but if you use the normal cutting torch method, you're going to be vaporizing the metal in an oxygen rich environment.

A plasma cutter would also result in lead vapors.

The problem with a fast circular saw blade would be that it might heat up and you end up with your blade soldered to the chunk of lead that you are cutting. Plus, it's going to make a LOT of small lead chips. With a chain saw, I suspect that the chips will be larger.

Will your log splitter even physically handle the pieces? The cutting edge on the log splitter needs to be at least as long as the thickness of the lead that you will be cutting off of it.

reddoggm
01-14-2014, 08:46 AM
If I could get a bunch of it like that I would make up a double boiler style setup using old paint vats that I have down at the farm.

kind of like the incinerator I built for the house except the top vat would be inverted over the bottom one that held the wood with a drain on the bottom of the one that held the lead going out the side.
That would be nice but ya still have to be able to load the lead in there my biggest piece probobly weighs around 1800#

smokesahoy
01-14-2014, 09:22 AM
its a problem i'd like to have thats for sure. i'd also use an axe

jmorris
01-14-2014, 10:51 AM
That would be nice but ya still have to be able to load the lead in there my biggest piece probobly weighs around 1800#

I have a forklift but realize most do not have one at home. If you live where you could do something like this in your yard, I bet you know someone with a front end loader or an engine hoist.

Teddy (punchie)
01-14-2014, 11:26 AM
I would use a old cross cut saw. Maybe try to use a rough cut hand saw. Something with 4-8 teeth per inch.

After getting to 50-100 lbs. I would make an angle iron, C-Chanel slope to the ground with molds on the bottom or just use the ground to make molds. Build a fire in the end and let the steel get hot and melt the lead will flow down grade to molds. Can move coals around with hoe to make it hotter or colder. We are going to use this idea next time we get indoor range lead.

deepwater
01-14-2014, 12:46 PM
What about renting an electric jack hammer with an asphalt blade. We used one to cut a lot of concrete and rock. They are bulkier than air hammers but work great. I am talking about the full size units that are about 3 feet tall. Be about $100 for the job.

deepwater

reddoggm
01-14-2014, 12:49 PM
I have a forklift but realize most do not have one at home. If you live where you could do something like this in your yard, I bet you know someone with a front end loader or an engine hoist.
I have a chainfall to pick up my heavy work but it,s in the back of my building where I don,t have any ventilation to do any melting
As I live in the city I could hoist in a tree ---But I would imagine my neighbors would get upset with the whole boolit/gun/lead thing
Don,t need them knowing my buss anyway

WilliamDahl
01-14-2014, 01:24 PM
When I had a big chunk of lead once that was larger than would fit in my smelting pot, I thought about creating a replacement wheel for my truck that was made out of solid steel and sharpened somewhat with an angle grinder. I was thinking it could act as a rotary cutter -- basically like a pipe / tubing cutter where you would just drive it back and forth across the piece of lead in the same groove and eventually it would cut the lead. It seemed a bit extreme for the one piece of lead that I had, so I never experimented with it.

Certaindeaf
01-14-2014, 01:40 PM
An old cheese grater oughta do the trick.

Russel Nash
01-14-2014, 04:22 PM
Getting enough localized heat into those blocks will be an issue especially at the start and as the slug shorens and heat transfers any clamp or eye bolts holding it up will weaken and possible let go. Getting it on a stand heavy enough to support the wieght and work on it first. A couple heavy saw horses with 2x6s for a top. I would drill holes in a line thru leaving an 1/8A drill bit sharpened correctly should walk right thru leaving just an 1/8" to cut chiesel thru between them then a heavy chisel can be used to break the remaining bonds. Or a sawz all to cut the webs. Use chalk as a lubricant for the blade to help keep it from loading up. If useing a 3/8' drill punch straight line of holes every 1/2" if using 1/2" drill but every 5/8". The drill chips can be collected and melted down and this leaves much less sawing to be done. Drill should be sharpened as for brass so it dosnt grab / dig into lead as easy. Blocks could set on floor with 2x6s under it to protect floor from drill. Once you get the line of holes in cutting the webs should go much faster. Again use chalk to keep drill from loading up beeswax will also work here.

You might be onto something with drilling a line of holes. That's how stone masons would cut a slab of stone.

Then they would use feathers and wedges to get the stone to split along that line:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/m/video/0,,20555590,00.html

But stone obviously has different properties than lead.

I wonder what melting lead is like surface tension wise. You know how water will run down the side of a glass when you pour it slowly. Or if you have a roof leak, the water will run down the underside of the roof sheathing or rafter???


What if you could suspend this block so it was angled downward. Then tie wired a turkey fryer base to the underside of it. With the burner lit, would the lead melt and run down the underside of the slab. Then once it got to the bottom corner and had nowhere else to cling onto it would drip into a pan or ingot mould.

About the only other thing I could think of would be to use a big piece of angle iron like this. ^ on a concrete floor. Put the lead chunk on top of that and apply weight or force to both sides hoping it would bend or break right there at the corner of the angle iron. I have a feeling it would rather bend first instead of break.

You could always go at it with a power pack and duck bills. You can see the hand operated pump really well in this picture, but you can't make out the duck bills all that well:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTE5NlgxNjAw/z/El4AAOxyXVBSOIiN/$(KGrHqJHJDkFIbj6Je(zBSOIiM)Wcg~~60_35.JPG


When you start cranking on the pump handle the duck bills open up like this:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m075iRfxzf963zXPtRw1UfA.jpg

You could start out cutting a groove about an inch wide about 6 inches in from the edge. Insert the duck bills and start cranking on the pump's handle.

WilliamDahl
01-14-2014, 04:51 PM
Many years ago, I rented a pressure washer to clean my fences and the concrete of the patio of my home. IIRC, I rented a 3400 or so psi unit. With the single stream type tip instead of a fan type tip, I was able to actually etch the concrete on the patio (I was trying to remove the glue where the previous owner had put down astroturf to carpet the patio). I'm curious what a pressure washer would do with lead. I suspect that it would contaminate the surrounding areas with lead though. I know that a water jet cutter would work, but those usually have an abrasive mixed in with the water plus they are at quite a bit higher pressure.

Springfield
01-14-2014, 05:13 PM
Twice I have cut up sailboat keels. Sawzall sucked, axe sucked, but my Skilsaw with a carbide blade ripping blade worked ok. You really need the spacing wide on the teeth or it will bind. It will anyway, but not as bad. I cut them up in the bed of my truck so it contained the chips. Being heavy they just fall and don't fly all over like wood chips. If your pieces are only 10" across you can cut one side and then flip it over(the hard part!). If the cut lines don't line up, and they probably won't THEN you can use an axe or a hammer and chisel. I feel for ya, it is hard work but if you got them for a good price it will be worth it in the long run.

reddoggm
01-14-2014, 06:23 PM
Final Update got it ALL cut into pot size pieces with----------------------------- A Hilti hammer with a 4 inch wide chisle bit had to put a sharper edge on it a half a dozen times but made the job alot easier than the Axe/Sledge deal I wouldn,t it cut like butter but it wasn,t bad so for you men that run into this kind of thing I highly recomend you try it this way far less work than Sawzall/Circular saw/Axe Sledge and melting with a torch I thank all here at CB for your input Special thanks to deepwater for the Idea that worked for me
Thanks a WHOLE BUNCH GUYS The DOGG!!!

winchester85
01-14-2014, 09:02 PM
i would have put it in my band sawmill. a 4 degree blade fed slow, all the chips go down the chute. never done it, but i bet it works.

Certaindeaf
01-14-2014, 10:16 PM
Many years ago, I rented a pressure washer to clean my fences and the concrete of the patio of my home. IIRC, I rented a 3400 or so psi unit. With the single stream type tip instead of a fan type tip, I was able to actually etch the concrete on the patio (I was trying to remove the glue where the previous owner had put down astroturf to carpet the patio). I'm curious what a pressure washer would do with lead. I suspect that it would contaminate the surrounding areas with lead though. I know that a water jet cutter would work, but those usually have an abrasive mixed in with the water plus they are at quite a bit higher pressure.
Patty cakes kinda rhymes with stay the f home.

Rooster
01-14-2014, 10:16 PM
Excellent! Thank you for the follow up as I've been following this thread.

WilliamDahl
01-14-2014, 10:51 PM
Patty cakes kinda rhymes with stay the f home.

Huh? Don't see how that relates to my post.

reddoggm
01-14-2014, 11:21 PM
i would have put it in my band sawmill. a 4 degree blade fed slow, all the chips go down the chute. never done it, but i bet it works.
win85 I hope the bed on that saw is strong the 1 chunk was around 1800#

jackmanuk
01-15-2014, 05:08 AM
BLOWTORCH get a powerful one that makes it drip fast , or use and drill arger bit and get but shaving ,do it in lines so its then easier to take and axe to it and break it apart

Lloyd Smale
01-15-2014, 08:46 AM
I keep an old chain saw just for jobs like that. Yes you might loose a bit but when your talking hundres or thousands of lbs what a couple lbs of chips. Another way to do it is start at a corner with a weed burner and place a pot under your chunk and melt it right into the pot.