PID controls

[Bignutt]

If I'm reading correctly about anyone that went this route likes it, is there any drawbacks to it. I have got a 20 pound lee pot on the way, the 460 gr bullets just ate it up to fast, and am thinking about putting the PID on it.(by the way I have a lee 10 pound melter for sale/trade:)) I would think that this would help a lot for pulling these big bullets out I could still know the temp and keep these bullets closer to the same.

[Beagle333]

The only drawback for me is that I didn't buy one back when Frozone first started makin' em. It really changes the game in a good way and I wish I had bought one before I had spent so much time struggling to keep my casting temps steady. 8-)

The only physical difference is that there is a probe mounted to the pot. It shouldn't even be noticeable in a bottom pour, but I use it in a 20 lb ladle pot and it's not in my way either.
No drawbacks. :-D

[el34]

No drawbacks. :-D

Maybe fewer than that!

Even with a 20lb pot, boolits that size will be dropping the level quickly and you'll be adding ingots to match. Without the controller your temp would be all over the place.

[Frozone]

The only draw back is that you will not want to Not use one ever again.

[Beagle333]

Maybe fewer than that!
Even with a 20lb pot, boolits that size will be dropping the level quickly and you'll be adding ingots to match.

True... I didn't think about them huge boolits. Even if it was filled to the brim, and you drained 'er dry, that's only about 300 boolits per pot. (if you are putting sprues back)

[Bignutt]

Well this isn't looking good for the checkbook! Is there any way to run the pot and a hotplate at the same time?

[el34]

Well this isn't looking good for the checkbook! Is there any way to run the pot and a hotplate at the same time?

The checkbok hit will be forgotten in a short time. Assuming you stick with casting for a while the benefit will last forever and you'll be glad. Lot of life stuff works that way.

What do you want to do with a hotplate? Keep a mold hot? You'd need a separate controller if that's what you're asking but in my experience a fairly cheap electric pan from WM does a pretty good job regulating its own temp.

[Bignutt]

That sounds pretty good if I put a piece of metal on top of the coil do you think that would be good enough for preheating the mold?

[Beagle333]

I got a coil hotplate and I put a can top from a gallon of ketchup on it to help disperse the heat, and even though the coils get cherry, the mold doesn't get that hot. I'm thinking the can top isn't doing a great job because it's not perfectly flat (it's got ripples in it and warps a little when hot)
I'm thinking I'm going to have to sacrifice my skillsaw blade for the job. :???:
I hope it'll still cut wood later. :wink:

[el34]

That sounds pretty good if I put a piece of metal on top of the coil do you think that would be good enough for preheating the mold?

I misunderstood. I was referring to an electric frying pan that has a temp regulator knob right where the cord connects to it. I have one of those and its regulator is fairly close. A while back somebody posted a pic of his with a chunk cut out of one side so the mold would lay flat with the handles sticking out.

But whatever, you can't control pot and coil from one PID, like one thermostat controlling two houses.

[MOA]

Right on beagle333, I started using a trashed saw blade a few years ago, but I have never tried to saw anything after it being on the burner.

PID, you bet. Just after getting my master caster I had Eric at magma send me the new PID controller for the caster and it is terrific. Best thing since sliced bread for keeping the pot where it needs to be. This caster has a 40 lb pot, and doing lots of 400 and 500 grainers on it devours the pot real quick. Temp control is real important. So glad I don't live where it gets real cold and try to cast during the winter, the temps here in Mobile, AL are nice most days in winter.

[Mike W1]

Before you get rid of that 10 lb. pot consider reversing the base and using that pot to feed the lower HOT metal. I don't have 6-bangers but it sure works nice for my 2-bangers.
If you do so fasten the top pot securely!!!!

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u310/Mike4245/HPIM1075.jpg

[Bignutt]

Nice! Thought about trying to use it to premelt metal but couldn't figure out how to do it handy like that. Thats a good idea.

[el34]

The only draw back is that you will not want to Not use one ever again.

Well stated my friend.

[sigep749]

Mike W1-
What's the plate mounted to the top of your pot for? Pre heat mould?

[Mike W1]

Mike W1-
What's the plate mounted to the top of your pot for? Pre heat mould?

That's exactly what it's for. Each one holds a mould and while casting I preheat the ingots on em' Each hold 2@ 1 lb'ers. Years back there was a discussion about them and it was pretty much of the opinion to keep them on the minimal size. When pots up to temp I get a good looking pair of bullets 1st fill. If you have a 10 lb'er Lee I have a pdf of the shelf.

[CGT80]

PID's SUCK!!!!!!

















If you already ordered one, just send it to me when you get it. :kidding:

I love the PID on my lee 20 pound pot. It does drain fast when you use big boolits or a 5 cav mold. I preheat lead on my hot plate. The lee 20 takes a long time to get back up to temp even when dumping a pound or two of sprues at a time. With the last batch of boolits, I put the sprue back into the pot right from the mold. This really helped. I may use my old 10 pound pot to preheat my lead.

There are some other tricks for the lee 20 as well.................mold shelves, lids, the thumb know I added to adjust flow without using a screwdriver, etc. A PID and a Lee 20 is a great combo without breaking the bank.

[Frozone]

The lee 20 takes a long time to get back up to temp even when dumping a pound or two of sprues at a time. With the last batch of boolits, I put the sprue back into the pot right from the mold. This really helped.

That's the trick. Use sawdust and leave a layer of ash on top. It'll float the sprue untill it melts it's way back down - kinda self fluxing that way.

If you maintain a steady rhythm, the PID will compensate for the material being added and still keep things within a few degrees.