Homebrew Swage Lubricant -- a question

[Zbench]

All,

I've been using the standard Corbin Lube, but after using it for a while, I've decided that it's too thick for my liking. I read somewhere that it's just Lanolin and Castor Oil. In checking online, both components are cheap and readily available.

So, the question is, for those who make their own, what's the best mix? Any tips on getting the two parts together? Any need to heat? Comments and suggestions are welcome.

Pete

[Cane_man]

50/50 eyeball it by volume, put the mixture in the microwave for about ~20s in a small plastic container (dollar store is your friend), when somewhat melted mix them together (i use bamboo skewers)... make sure the lanolin is the 'anhydrous' type... let is cool and it will all be blended together solid

[BT Sniper]

1 lb of anhydrous lanolin to 2oz of castor oil. Heat up the lanolin till it is liquid form then poor in castor oil. It is still a thick mix when cooled but this mix is what I use and offer.

BT

[Rumrunner64]

The more caster oil you add the softer it will be. I like 1 LB lanolin to 5 OZ caster oil. It is nice and soft at room temp. Harder if you keep it cool.

[MUSTANG]

I used up 2 of the small bottles of Corbin Swage lube and developed a severe dislike for it based on:

1. The ever present black from the brass swaging operation.
2. The inability to get a "Light Coating" when applying rolling between thumb and finger/s.

For the last year or so I have used a light misting from a spray bottle of the following formula exclusively for derimming, core seating, and nose forming operations. Also use it for sizing brass.

Now Foods LANOLIN PURE - http://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC
(http://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC)

Isopropyl alcohol, 99% 16 oz. plastic bottle, 1 ea
http://www.amazon.com/Isopropyl-alcohol-99%25-plastic-bottle/dp/B006YCB444/ref=sr_1_1?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1389052822&sr=1-1&keywords=99+isopropyl+alcohol

Mix the two bottles together in another container by shaking until well mixed, then pour into the spray bottle. If your temperature drops to about 60 degrees or cooler, the lanolin will settle out to the bottom of the bottle. At 60 degrees or warmer, the lanolin will dissolve back into 99% alcohol solution if shaken a few times. I do not recommend using anything less than 90% alcohol (too much water, and that can't be good for steel dies and punches). You may be able to find these items at a Drug store, or local health food stores.

For application, I place a 100 or so LR jackets in a stainless steel bowl and give it one or two sprays, then swirl. Add another 100 or so and do again. It does not take much. If you pick up a piece of brass and it feels dry, or you can not feel either the alcohol; or a minute lanolin coating- do not swage it. Either swirl again or hit it with a spray. You do not want to stick a dry/unlubed case in the die

Since using this lube I no longer have: messy hands, a messy work area and swage set up, nor the heavy lubed jackets that are difficult to clean. Best wishes.

[Capt. Senile]

Another vote for the lanolin/Isopropyl lube. I've seen using Dillon Spray lube for de-riming since I started. Best thing ever.

[DukeInFlorida]

You can also get 99% isopropyl at the auto parts store as the RED container dry gas. The blue container is methyl and should not be used. I have been making my own version of Dillon spray lube for years.

But for swaging, I use the lanolin mixture, but substitute Militec-1 for the castor oil. Goes on thinner, and a little goes a LONG way. Militec-1 is a synthetic gun oil, which I use on all my pistols.

[fredj338]

I made some to just try it out. 3-1 mix seems to work fine. Melt the 3 parts lanolin & combine w/ 1 part castor oil. Feels like the lube BT sent with the dies.

[mactool]

I used up 2 of the small bottles of Corbin Swage lube and developed a severe dislike for it based on:

1. The ever present black from the brass swaging operation.
2. The inability to get a "Light Coating" when applying rolling between thumb and finger/s.

For the last year or so I have used a light misting from a spray bottle of the following formula exclusively for derimming, core seating, and nose forming operations. Also use it for sizing brass.

Now Foods LANOLIN PURE - http://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC
(http://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Liquid-Lanolin-Ounce/dp/B00028MLKC)
.

I tried your recipe with the solid Lanolin, and it will not disolve completely. I think, i wil try to add more Isopropylalcohol., but before I do that, i hope someone can tell me the difference between your Lanolin, and the solid Lanolin

[fredj338]

I tried your recipe with the solid Lanolin, and it will not disolve completely. I think, i wil try to add more Isopropylalcohol., but before I do that, i hope someone can tell me the difference between your Lanolin, and the solid Lanolin
I bought anhydrous lano from RandyR, thick solid like grease, melted it then added the alcohol or castor oil, depending on what you are making.

[Cane_man]

you can get the anhydrous lanolin on evilbay as well, lots of different sizes

[Doc_Stihl]

You can get anhydrous lanolin at Walgreens. I went in and asked and the next day I got a big tub of it for about the same as online prices, but was there the next day.
It's used as a base for topical medicines. I suspect any pharmacy could get it. I asked at the counter.

[mactool]

I have 2 Pound of that goui Lanolin, That should do it for a couple of years.
I will just add more alcohol then

[Utah Shooter]

I bought anhydrous lano from RandyR, thick solid like grease, melted it then added the alcohol or castor oil, depending on what you are making.
This is the way to go if you ask me. Keeps economy flowing in the Castboolits Community.

I however use neatsfool oil mixed with Lanolin, AWESOME lube.

[newcastter]

I bought anhydrous lano from RandyR, thick solid like grease, melted it then added the alcohol or castor oil, depending on what you are making.
+1 on RandyR he is by far the best price and quality, and as Joe pointed out it sure helps our local economy here at cast boolits.

[MUSTANG]

I tried your recipe with the solid Lanolin, and it will not disolve completely. I think, i wil try to add more Isopropylalcohol., but before I do that, i hope someone can tell me the difference between your Lanolin, and the solid Lanolin



1. I have not attempted to dissolve the Paste Anhydrous Lanolin in alcohol myself. I have always used the liquid form I cited (available from numerous sources, including some drug stores and health stores).

2. Possibly you are at a point where the solution of alcohol/Lanolin is saturated and no more of the Anhydrous Lanolin can be dissolved. You can test the mix by:
a. Spray lightly some brass/boolits with the solution
b. Allow to dry for 15 to 30 minutes
c. Feel between thumb and fingers. Is it slightly slick, or dry and catchy. If slightly slick, then use in the swage die.

3. Are you using 99% alcohol? If you are using 70% it will be difficult to dissolve the lanolin because of the water content in the alcohol.

4. What is the temperature of the Alcohol Lanolin mixture? If it drops below 60 or 65 degrees, the lanolin will solidify and drop to the bottom of the mixture. If this occurs, warm to 70 and shake lightly and it will go back in solution.

A substance is said to be anhydrous if it contains no water.

[mactool]

Im using 99% alcohol. i heated it up to 90,and shook it well and just dipped my finger in and let it dry, and it had a very oily feel to it, and i could see very small lanolin partikels in it.
I think the saturation point has been reached.