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View Full Version : Lee 4-20 110V or 220V?



Hamish
01-05-2014, 09:32 AM
As I will be adding a Lee Pro 4-20 pot to the set up with a 10lb. Production pot to feed it, it occurred to me to wonder which would be more economical in the long run, 110v or 220v.

I would imagine that feeding it hot alloy instead of ingots will keep current usage down, but, I have to wonder if the duty cycle to keep the pot up to temp. And the current used for initial melt are substantially different.

I plan to ask Lee about this during the week, but was hoping that someone with some experience or thoughts might chime in as I cannot remember seeing anything here on the forum addressing it.

winelover
01-05-2014, 10:59 AM
I'm interested also. Just got a used 240 V RCBS Pro-melt but haven't used it yet. Waiting on a mold guide from RCBS. Too cold, lately, here in Arkansas for outdoor casting. The 220 line is in the garage, right next to the overhead door.

Winelover

igolfat8
01-05-2014, 11:00 AM
The cost you pay for electricity, to operate a 220 V device would be 1/2 the cost, as compared to the cost to run a 120 V device.

Bzcraig
01-05-2014, 12:12 PM
I remember a similar discussion a while back beginning because the 220 was designed for the overseas market. IIRC, Bangerjim is an electrical engineer and his conclusion was to use the 220.

bpratl
01-05-2014, 12:24 PM
The cost you pay for electricity, to operate a 220 V device would be 1/2 the cost, as compared to the cost to run a 120 V device.
I may be wrong; but if you double the voltage you would than half the current, and if the kilowatts are the same you are right back where you started, so the operating cost should be the same. I think.

el34
01-05-2014, 12:39 PM
I may be wrong; but if you double the voltage you would than half the current, and if the kilowatts are the same you are right back where you started, so the operating cost should be the same. I think.

That is correct. Watts is what you pay for and watts = volts times amps. Double one and half the other gets the same result.

I'd definitely go for what the normal voltage is where you live just for flexibility in where to plug it in, including a different house.

Lloyd Smale
01-07-2014, 08:19 AM
the only thing to gain by going 240 is spliting the load between the two legs of power comming into your house. It will alow you also if you need a new circuit to run the pot to use smaller wire

el34
01-07-2014, 03:02 PM
the only thing to gain by going 240 is spliting the load between the two legs of power comming into your house. It will alow you also if you need a new circuit to run the pot to use smaller wire

Yep, but there might not need to be any concern about wire size etc. A typical 1200W hairdryer consumes twice as many watts as the 600W Lee 4-20 pot. A 99c household extension cord is rated for 13 amps, or almost 3x the Lee pot requirement.

The convenience of 'plug it in anywhere you want' is a good thing.

jackmanuk
01-07-2014, 04:49 PM
the only thing to gain by going 240 is spliting the load between the two legs of power comming into your house. It will alow you also if you need a new circuit to run the pot to use smaller wire

you could also split the load to the house next door and save money :drinks:

jonas302
01-07-2014, 05:35 PM
power rates vary of course but running at about 10 cents an hour power cost is a non issue 220 is going to cost exactly the same the pot is more expensive and doesn't even come with a plug and if you ever want to sell its not worth as much

Dale in Louisiana
01-07-2014, 06:52 PM
The cost you pay for electricity, to operate a 220 V device would be 1/2 the cost, as compared to the cost to run a 120 V device.
Wrong!

Your utility company charges residential users for watts (or kilowatts - a kilowatt is a thousand watts) used. Your Lee pot uses 700 watts. To get that it can use 5.8 amps at 120 volts or 2.9 amps at 240 volts. Your meter won't spend any faster from one than the other.

Trust me. I'm a power system professional

dale in Louisiana
(0-500,000 volts)

PalmettoShooter
01-07-2014, 06:57 PM
they'll come out to the same thing, it's just a preference issue for you. if you have a 220v heat coil and run 110v through it then the wattage will effectively be cut in half. ex: 1000w element rated for 220v @ 220v will run as advertised, but the same element at 110v will run at 500w. if you get it designed for 110v it'll work just fine. maybe 220v will heat faster? not completely sure on that part.

Joel