Want to build a bubba 308.....

[AlaskanGuy]

Here we go.....

I wanna build a bubba 308... I really like the mauser actions on both of AlaskanGurls 308's but they are hers.....

Sooooo suggestions on mauser parts? I have never built a bubba before, and money is kinda tight this time of year.... Only requirements is that it shoots straight out to about 200 yards..... Dont have to be purty either, as i already have a purty wife, dont need anything else purty.... I am learning to re-do stocks thanks to a great member of this forum... So stock being fugly is not an issue.... I just cant stand being without a 308, and rust dont scare me...lol

I need a shopping list i think of stuff that will work together with some sort of mauser action..... And just need something..... Figured i would document the whole thing right here..

AG

[Mk42gunner]

The cheapest way would be to buy a pre-bubba'd rifle, then put a .308 barrel on it. That way you can get one the is already drilled and tapped, with scope bases and the bolt handle bent/ or welded. Quite possibly a stock that will work for you also.

I did that about ten years ago, I bought a 98 that had been sporterized in the sixties (probably) for a hundred dollars from a kid that worked for me, I thik it was still an 8mm at the time. I put a 6.5-06 barrel on it for a while, then decided I wanted a .308.

Back then, Parker-Hale take-off barrels, from British sniper rifles IIRC, were going for about $60 on e-bay. The one I got screwed right on and headspaced okay. The front sight screws are at 3 O'clock, but I have a 3-9 Vari-x II on it so that doesn't bother me.

Mine will bust 3/4" gravel at 150 yards on a clay pond dam with surplus M80 ball. You can't really see the rock get hit, but you can see a puff of limestone dust.

I think altogether, I have about $300.00 in the rifle.

Honestly, if you have to buy the tools and all the parts for just one rifle, you will be money a head buying a Savage 110 in .308, You will probably save money with a used Remington or Winchester, too.

Robert

[AlaskanGuy]

I know, i could get a savage axis in 308 brand spanking new for 350.... But i just love the actions on my wifes 2 308's.... And i want my own...lol sad aint it... I checked out a buddys axis today, and it was ok, but there is just something about that mauser action....

I cant be the first to catch this mauser bug...... Am I???

I been looking at 98 stuff all night.... And it just gets worse... I keep thinking, i want this and i want that....lol.. Starting to break out in a sweat just talking about it.... Is there a cure????

This barrel would fit the bill....

92471 92472

Now if Could just fine one.... And a nice 98 action.... Maybe a good stock...

AG

[Archey]

If you can find a bolt, receiver etc., Rhineland arms has a "no gunsmith" .308 barrel. I do not have any personal experience with it but I have been thinking about getting one myself. I will try to post a link to their website.
http://www.troupsystems.com/mauser%20parts.htm

[Uncle Grinch]

There can be a great deal of satisfaction in building up your own rifle. It can get expensive however, it you have tp pay someone else, or buy the tools.

May I suggest browsing the various gun auctions or even the pawn shops for a used 308 Mauser. Make sure you stay with a 98 Mauser. They usually show up from time to time.

Good luck!

[RustyReel]

I love Mauser sporters, always have and always will. I have thrown away a bunch of money over the years on Mauser projects. I understand the appeal of having a rifle you built yourself, but the only way to make it reasonably cost effective is if you can do the work yourself....once you start farming the work out the cost goes thru the roof, plus then it is no longer a rifle you built yourself.

I agree with the other posters, buying a rifle someone else built is the way to go. Trust me, I know as I have been on both ends of those transactions.

Another option is to buy a commercial Mauser. Below is a picture of my latest Mauser 308. I bought it from a dealer on-line for $399.99 shipped to my FFL. FFL charged me $20. So I get a new commercial mauser action with an FN style bolt shroud, d/t for scope, hinged trigger guard, double set triggers (single trigger was available for the same price), walnut??? sporter stock, swivel studs, etc for way less than I could have built the rifle for.

These rifles also give you a chance to work on them yourself. Most obvious is the stock as it seems they smeared a bit of stain on them and put them on the rifle. Most can use a few coasts of your favorite stock finish, this one I stained (not stained in pic) and put a couple of coasts of tru-oil on. Some have complained the actions are rough, and they are not as smooth as a military Mauser that has been cycled a few thousand times. I think they are fine as is but you can always spend some time polishing the thing up. 92482

[BCgunworks]

I have an action here in the shop that I have already drilled and tapped. Haven't bent the bolt yet. All the metal is there.

Customer changed their mind and we used a custom action.
So its sitting here...was going to list it on gunbroker.
With mauser actions drying up I may be willing to sell the bolt bending jig and the heat sinks.
Email is the best way to reach me.
Bcgunworks@verizon.net

[BCgunworks]

I don't know why it added the http stuff before my address...just take that out

[AlaskanGuy]

It posted correctly... I emailed ya....

Also, thanks Archey, for that barrel link.... That looks interesting...

Sorry Grinch, no pawnshops around here...lol

[Pb2au]

Careful sir, mausers are very addicting. I just added a 1944 Obendorf (sp?) to the herd. A very well done sporter I might add. The bore is in superb condition,,
In fact I have a lead on a Argentine Calvary carbine right now as well............

[aspangler]

Careful sir, mausers are very addicting.
A+ to this. I have three and am building an 06 on a 98 now.

[Wolfer]

Addicting, I reckon. I have 12 mausers but only 4 are built. All others are original. I bought them for the actions only as most are good with cracked stocks.

If there's anything in the world I don't need it's another rifle but I'm wanting to build another anyway. Yes it's cheaper to buy a savage but I have one. Well what's left of one, I've changed the barrel, stock and trigger. But overall my favorite gun to hunt with is the first Mauser I built completely myself. Built on a Turk action I used a Adams & Bennett barrel in 7x57, timney trigger, gentry 3 *** safety, stock is a wood plus from Brownells. Scope is a 2x7 leopold. I'm a small man so cut this stock to fit me. It resembles a Winchester featherweight complete with schanbel forend.

Since I started using cast and I personally feel deer and cast should start at 30 cal I'm wanting to build another. I'm thinking a 338 x 60. I already have 338-06 dies I could cut down and mold, sizer, checks etc. I haven't contacted Jess yet to see if he will bore one of my 8mm to 338. This may be the deciding factor.

Since I don't go to any meetings besides this place I don't think I have an addiction! Woody

[Larry Gibson]

When looking at M98 actions; I suggest the standard length action with a 3.2 - .3.3" magazine for the .308W. They most often give good feeding, especially with cast bullets, with the minimal tapered .308W case. While the feed rail taper is for the Mauser cartridges the longer gentler sloped feed of the longer action allows cartridge head to come up under the extractor and pop out of the feed rails aligning the bullet with the chamber.

I've found most shorter M98 actions like the M48 Yugo's will give feeding problems unless the feed rails are opened up for the minimal tapered .308W case. If not the 2nd or 3rd rim many times will not come up high enough for the bolt bottom to catch it, especially with fire formed NS'd cases as the shoulder of the case is fatter. The feed rails are made for the more tapered Mauser cartridges and additionally many FN nose cast bullets will catch on the side of the chamber jamming and deforming the cast bullet or pushing it back into the case. Some shorter actions feed fine but most don't, it's a cr*p shoot.

Larry Gibson

[pietro]

.

Git you a synthetic stock, better for AK, and this is about what you can end up with: http://www.gunsinternational.com/MAUSER-98.cfm?gun_id=100357005

http://images.gunsinternational.com/listings/100357005-2-L.JPG


.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

My 'gunshow' neighbor is a Mauser artist, at least that's what I call him.
For each of these, I have traded a Leupold scope and some cash ta-boot. (we're talkin' about $700 to $800 of value for each) While there is something about making it yourself, if you're capable (I am not). Then there is something about a good friend making it for you...as opposed to some random gunsmith.

358 Win with 1909 argentine receiver...traded for in 2013
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/fullviewrightside_zps8680ebdb.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/fullviewrightside_zps8680ebdb.jpg.html)

257 Robt with a Belgian receiver...traded for in 2012
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/MonkIImausercustom257Robforphotobucket.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/MonkIImausercustom257Robforphotobucket.jpg.html)

257 Robt with a German 98 reciever made in Loewe...traded for in 2011
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Mauserforwallpaper_zps061ff32f.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/Mauserforwallpaper_zps061ff32f.jpg.html)

[AlaskanGuy]

Wow.. great stuff guys...... really neat info as well....

Thanks for the advice also, but I suffer from A.I.S. (Alaskan Independence Syndrome ) so I will be doing it myself.. one way or the other....

AG

[Forrest r]

I love Mauser sporters, always have and always will. I have thrown away a bunch of money over the years on Mauser projects. I understand the appeal of having a rifle you built yourself, but the only way to make it reasonably cost effective is if you can do the work yourself....once you start farming the work out the cost goes thru the roof, plus then it is no longer a rifle you built yourself.

I agree with the other posters, buying a rifle someone else built is the way to go. Trust me, I know as I have been on both ends of those transactions.

Another option is to buy a commercial Mauser. Below is a picture of my latest Mauser 308. I bought it from a dealer on-line for $399.99 shipped to my FFL. FFL charged me $20. So I get a new commercial mauser action with an FN style bolt shroud, d/t for scope, hinged trigger guard, double set triggers (single trigger was available for the same price), walnut??? sporter stock, swivel studs, etc for way less than I could have built the rifle for.

These rifles also give you a chance to work on them yourself. Most obvious is the stock as it seems they smeared a bit of stain on them and put them on the rifle. Most can use a few coasts of your favorite stock finish, this one I stained (not stained in pic) and put a couple of coasts of tru-oil on. Some have complained the actions are rough, and they are not as smooth as a military Mauser that has been cycled a few thousand times. I think they are fine as is but you can always spend some time polishing the thing up. 92482


Very nice!!!
Could you tell us who you ordered that rifle from? There's nothing better than a double set trigger on a high power.

forrest r

[RustyReel]

forrest, sent you a PM with the info.

[rtracy2001]

Here is mine. (a link anyway)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?138306-A-cold-day-not-wasted

[NVScouter]

Dont forget if you like Mauser actions look at them all.

Military 98s as well as Springfields, Interarms, FN, Ruger M77s Tang safetys etc.

Whatever you do dont buy the Axis! A real action and real trigger smokes those things!

[Beekeeper]

I have 27 Mausers.
Except for 2 all were junkers to start with.
I rebuilt them and built new stocks ,put "Bold" triggers on them and on several changed the barrels.
All of them came out cheaper than if I had bought a new rifle.

They range from a couple of 71/84 's to 308 with a Palma 1-14 twist barrel.
They all shoot better than my old eyes are capable of and I enjoy them all.

I still get static and s##t from some of the purists but for some reason I don't care what anyone thinks.

My advice echo's Larry Gibson get a 98 long action as it can be used for any cartridge where a small or intermediate action cannot


beekeeper

[AlaskanGuy]

Thanks Beekeeper... That sound like great advice....... I wont forget it...

AG

[357maximum]

My favorite 308 is a small ring Oveido 1916(1893) civil guardia spanish mauser. Simply cut the barrel off to where I wanted it, installed a Boyd's sporter stock, added a hinged floorplate from another spanish armory and put a lyman peeper on it along with a remington 700 "recycled" front sight. I love that little beast.....got about $200 bucks into her. Sure I do not "beat" on it with ooober full house loads but the "307 rimless like" loads I use are a blast and a half. There was nothing wrong with the shooting ability of the original barrel so I simply kept it..well most of it anyway, the 2 stage trigger was fine as stock so I did not mess with that either.

[Wolfer]

I find it's not very expensive to make a very usable rifle out of them. For large ring 98s barrels are fairly plentiful at a reasonable cost. As a general rule I'll start with a barrel and a recoil pad along with a Bueler type scope safety. If it going to wear irons then I don't even do that. I already have the jigs to bend the bolt and tap for a scope. Pretty quick I'll change the trigger to a timney sportsman. Mainly because most of my rifles have them and its hard for me to go back and forth on a hunting rifle. Sometime later I'll buy a semi inletted stock blank. Most of mine eventually get a three position side swing safety. I prefer the Gentry over the others I have. I rent my reamers from 4-D products but I'm sure others are just as good.
The safety and trigger add quite a bit to the price and I'll end up at close to new factory rifle price. While I've never been to Alaska I do suffer from that same do it yourself syndrome. Woody

[RustyReel]

As I said earlier, if you can do most of the work yourself, then go for it. If you have to farm the work out just be aware that you will never get your investment out of it.

Sure, you MAY be able to find a Mauser in 308 with a decent barrel for a couple of hundred bucks, whack the end of the stock off and call it a sporter, but if you pay to have any extensive work done on it you will end up with close to what you could buy a rifle (and certainly someone else's sporter) for.

I don't quite have as many as Beekeeper. I only have 17 Mausers, commercial and military sporters, as well as a couple of sporterized US military pieces.

I think I posted a picture of the rifle below in the Military rifle forum, but I'll repost it here and give a bit of details as to what this one cost me.

I started with a worn our M98 Mauser for $100. I scrubbed and cleaned up the receiver and trigger guard. I got a .35 Whelen barrel from Midway for $110 (Shipped, all standard calibers same price). Rented a finish reamer and go/no-go gauges for $50 (postage both ways). I made a new bolt handle out of a $2 wrench. Got a stock that was painted black from GBroker for $38 ($20 for the stock + $18 shipping). Set of Remington 700 sights for $25. I paid a machinest friend of mine $40 to crank off the old barrel, crank on the new one, cut off the old and weld on the new bolt handle, weld up the lock screw holes in the trigger guard and drill/tap the barrel for the sights. I finished reamed the chamber, stripped and refinished the stock, installed the recoil pad, fitted the barreled action to the stock, polished and rust blued the barreled action. I figured I spend about $25 in supplies doing that (sandpaper, stipper, blueing solution, steel wool, grease remover, rubber gloves, etc, ect).

If my math is correct that is $390 for an on the cheap sporter with the original safety and trigger and not drilled and tapped for a scope.

The rifle I posted earlier in this tread was $30 more. (and I challenge you to find a decent walnut sporter stock for $38!!!)

Just sayin'......these things are great and a lot of fun, but they can easily get out of hand....... If you want to build one yourself that is great, but if all you want is a 308 Mauser Sporter then there are other options.

93406

[Doc1]

There are some .mil surplus options. There are still quite a few Israeli K98s out there already converted to 7.62x51 NATO and my personal favorite is the Spanish FR8 in 7.62x51 NATO. The Spaniard - as far as I know - is the only .mil K98 ever issued with a stock peep sight! I love mine and my old eyes can still easily use it.

Best regards
Doc

[starmac]

Doc does your peep site on your fr8 revolve with several peeps and an open site on the one setting. My buddy has one and I would buy another gun before I milled that sight off to scope it.

[Any Cal.]

I LOVE the idea of building a rifle, but hate the economics. The only way they work out is if you put a high value on having built it yourself, and don't care about all the little things like scope mounts, decent trigger, stainless, etc. If you get a rifle that shoots, it will be at least $200. $100 stock, trigger, and barrel. Now you are at the cost of a new rifle and have junk sights, a straight bolt, and no way to mount a scope if you want one, and it is still only worth $2-300.

I would buy a used Savage for $300 and put money into it for a beater.If you put the same money into it as the sporter, it will likely be worth more when finished, and likely shoot better and more accurately at any stage of the game, even without any extra dollars.

My only bubba was a $79 Mosin carbine that I hacked up pretty good. After modding the sights, trigger and stock, I had a rifle that was the equivalent of a $75 rifle, or maybe a bit less. I looked into aftermarket parts and realized I could put $3-400 into it and have a $75 rifle, so left it as it was...

For a good beater w/ Mauser style/quality, the 1891 carbines would be a nice choice without needing much. Cut a bit of the forend off, refinish the stock, and call it a day. They usually go pretty cheap, too.

[kootne]

Alaskaguy, google up Allans Armory, he has 7.62 Brazil mauser takeoff barrel at $65.
kootne

[Artful]

Alaskaguy, google up Allans Armory, he has 7.62 Brazil mauser takeoff barrel at $65.
kootne

http://www.allans-armory.com/aaresult.php?PageId=88


Project Mauser Barrels
Brazilian M1908 Mauser take off barrels. Large ring, 23 1/4”, two grooved, cal 7.62 NATO. Have complete front & rear sight assemblies. Ready to be screwed on to your action. Shipping $17 for one, $5 for each additional barrel on the same order.
BR17

Blue 35% overall with some shallow cosmetic pitting. This bore is 4 grooved! Bore has VG (Hi VG) lands, grooves shine. $65
http://www.allans-armory.com/images/guns/091712BR_0012-web.jpg

[starmac]

That would be a cheap way to come up with a 308 mauser.

[AlaskanGuy]

Wow... Thanks... Looking into that one.... Thanks artful...

[Doc1]

Doc does your peep site on your fr8 revolve with several peeps and an open site on the one setting. My buddy has one and I would buy another gun before I milled that sight off to scope it.

Starmac,

Yep. The peep revolves with different apertures for different ranges and it has an open sight setting for 100 yards, er, meters. I only keep it on the 200 meter setting, as the open sight is sorta' useless for my eyes. Interestingly, I have two FR8s and the rear sight is mounted backwards on one of them. This appears to have been done at the arsenal and while a bit odd, has no effect on shooting.

I'm 56 and my eyes aren't nearly what they once were. Stock Mauser sights - which, in fairness were designed for 18 YO infantrymen - are utterly useless for me. I can still shoot well with the FR8's peep sight.

Best regards
Doc

[starmac]

Doc that is the reason I really like that sight on the ER8. I am going to have to open the sight up with a file on my VZ24 to be able to use it at all, but have been reluctant to do so. lol

[johnson1942]

mark, have you ever thought about a .35 whelen instead of the .308? easy to build off of any gun that shoots a .25/06, .270 or 06. rebore or rebarrel. anyone can tell you that has owned a .35 whelen its a fine fine cal. good gun for a walk about in your country, will keep you from being eaten. i do know that once one gits a thought stuck in his or hers mind it has to be acted on or it will stick with you. tell and show us what you do. i worked with a dr. a while back who bought a old rifle of some kind and a .308 barrel from a suppier and in his basement and a vise he unscrewed the old barrel and screwed in the new barrel and had a good shooting .308. he claimed thats all their was to it. however he was a master machinest that went to college then med school so he had a background in metal. i shot it and it worked real well.

[carbine86]

The bug just bit me this month too I have a k98 to pick up from the ffl this week then making a trade for a mauser thats been sporterized with the ati stock which I will sell off to help fund the build.

[AlaskanGuy]

Yea.. For now, There is nothing available for me to swap for around my part of the country. So this will be put on hold... I do have a K31 to hold me over, and a buddy has a 303 that is available that I might be able to swap for... so I will have my "fix" for a while... But I do want to do a 308 mauser bubba build.

[Artful]

Tell us about the 303 Please - Mk4 or ?

[AlaskanGuy]

Well, i gotta get close to it again to see.... He showed it to me when i picked up the K31... I didn't know enough about 303's to even know what questions to ask... This milsurp thing is a recent bug, in the past it has always been about hunting guns, bolt action stuff.... Only milsurp i have ever owned before this in over 50 years was an old 30 carbine, and i sold that 20 years ago..... But my wife got me started being interested again when she got the old milsurp 8mm Mauser that was re-chambered into 308 by the Israelites when her dad passed.... There is just something about an old well made gun....

I will check out the 303 better when i see it next... It was original though, from the 40's, and had some smoke staining as it went through a fire in a fire proof safe... Nothing bad in the way of damage, just dark from a bit of smoke.... Easy to clean up... Action was smooth, bore was bright and well grooved.... I am sure it is a good shooter... Will just have to see...

AG

[35 Whelen]

My favorite 308 is a small ring Oveido 1916(1893) civil guardia spanish mauser. Simply cut the barrel off to where I wanted it, installed a Boyd's sporter stock, added a hinged floorplate from another spanish armory and put a lyman peeper on it along with a remington 700 "recycled" front sight. I love that little beast.....got about $200 bucks into her. Sure I do not "beat" on it with ooober full house loads but the "307 rimless like" loads I use are a blast and a half. There was nothing wrong with the shooting ability of the original barrel so I simply kept it..well most of it anyway, the 2 stage trigger was fine as stock so I did not mess with that either.

Somebody beat me to it! this is the route I went for a Scout rifle for my wife. Super easy, fun work.

Before:

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/308Scout/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/1916MauserBefore.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/308Scout/media/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/1916MauserBefore.jpg.html)

After:

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/308Scout/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/Stockafter6.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/308Scout/media/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/Stockafter6.jpg.html)

After with optional scope:

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/308Scout/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/Finished.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/308Scout/media/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/Finished.jpg.html)

Did all the work myself with mostly common hand tools. Even Parkerized it in my home-made Parkerizing tank and believe it or not, that's the original military stock.

35W

[35 Whelen]

...oh yeah.. and it even shoots pretty good!

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/308Scout/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/FirstTarget-1.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/308Scout/media/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/FirstTarget-1.jpg.html)

100 yd. targets:

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/308Scout/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/Target-mod.jpg (http://s60.photobucket.com/user/308Scout/media/Scout%20Rifle%20Project/Target-mod.jpg.html)

35W

[AlaskanGuy]

Wow... Very very nice job... The stock came out beautifulllllll.... Great job... You took your time and it shows.... Great work!!!!!!!

AG

[robroy]

35 W does that scope mount clip into the origional site collar or does it sweat on? I've got a Steyr model 1912 and I don't want to wipe out the crest on the front of the receiver by drilling and taping. It's only an action so maybe it doesn't matter but I like the look of your wife's gun.

[35 Whelen]

Thanks, AG.

The scope mount slides over the barrel and can be glassed or epoxied the the barrel. It's made by XS Systems and is bought depending on the size of the barrel at the receiver. Brownells has them.

35W

[MBTcustom]

Gotta watch those Spanish SR Mausers. Keep your loads light and accurate and you'll be fine. Keep a weather eye for lug setback. One of my clients had one set the lugs back with standard factory 7X57 ammo.
You'll never dull a file working one over.

[Beekeeper]

Please excuse me Goodsteel as I do not wish to step on your toes.
I have 2 Spanish small ring 7x57MM Mausers that I bought 50 + years ago that I shoot regulary.
Had them checked when I started shooting full bore rounds through them and again when they were rebarreled and there was no set back in either one
I now shoot them with only cast and find them to be exelant rifles.

In all rifles there are good ones and bad ones so to say all M95 Mausers are faulty is to say a falsehood!


beekeeper

[35 Whelen]

^^^^^ This. Samco had H.P. White test one of these Mausers and it took an enormous overload to finally do the rifle in. On my home computer I have an article over the rifle Samco sent me with the info from H.P. White.

35W

[Bored1]

^^^^^ This. Samco had H.P. White test one of these Mausers and it took an enormous overload to finally do the rifle in. On my home computer I have an article over the rifle Samco sent me with the info from H.P. White.

35W

I was looking into that article myself lately and it appears that Samco paid for the article to be written so it may or may not be biased in their favor. Also recently found another topic by a gentleman who was given the samco rifle which at the time passed go-no go gauges in 308 win, however after shooting, it no longer will pass the testes. Some discussion around about whether the 1916 spanish mauser's samco has/had where meant for 308 win, 7.62x51 Nato or 7.62x51 CETME. No expert just pointing out a few things I've found lately.

[MBTcustom]

I was simply throwing a caution out there. The Spanish mausers that have come through my shop have been soft as cold rolled. If you got a good one then more power to ya. You sure can get them cheap and there's plenty of them for sale around.
I love working on them too. Never dull the files. Polish up real easy. Good and sooooooooft.
It's easy to check one out. Just take a good steel scribe and reach inside and see if you can scratch the recoil lugs. If its hard to scratch or it slides, then your good. If the scribe digs, then you would be wise to follow my advice in post #45.
But hey, what do I know.

[35 Whelen]

The subject of these rifles and their integrity, or lack thereof, has been beat to a pulp on every internet firearm forum imaginable. The article in which one of the rifles in question was tested was written, if I'm not mistaken, in the '90's. Lord only knows how many thousands of those rifles have been sold and fired since then.

First and foremost, I have no doubt that a company the size of Samco would never market a firearm if there were any question whatsoever as to the integrity of the firearm. Second, why would Samco go to the trouble and expense of having H.P. White test a sample rifle, then want them to skew the results so as to make the rifles appear better than they are? Third, why would an entity such as H.P. White compromise their reputation by deliberately skewing the results of the test?

I doubt seriously anyone gave a second thoughy to firing these rifles with any .308 ammunition until the folks on internet forums began raising concerns because the actions have "only" two locking lugs. IMHO, the only thing that's made these rifles "unsafe" are internet forums!

I bead blasted my wife's 1916 before I Park'ed it and the receiver is hard, no doubt.

35W

35W

[MBTcustom]

I have not read anything bad or good about these rifles on an internet forum. The advice I gave is my own, and my opinion based on my experience.
I didn't say it to discourage anybody, or make you lose confidence in your rifle.
It's just that I check every mil-surp rifle for hardness before I will build on it, and the Spanish mausers have been soft so far. So, my policy is to never chamber one for anything that produces more pressure than the 7X57.
Recently, a client of mine, and a member of the forum made me aware of a Spanish Mauser that he had had. He said it was in the original caliber and that after firing quite a few rounds from it, and enjoying it quite a bit, the bolt got stiff opening. He said that upon closer inspection it was obvious that the lugs had gotten set back. This feller is one of my best clients and has never exaggerated anything in all the deals we have done.
Coupling that with what I have observed, I thought I would get on here and say that every Spanish rifle ever made is total junk and unsafe.... No, that's not what I did! I said to keep a weather eye on the action and if you see anything going south, don't ignore it.
Look Ill back out of here now, I wasn't trying to ruffle any feathers or anything, and I'm sorry.

[35 Whelen]

Oh, no feathers ruffled here and I didn't mean to come across as such. Your experience says more than what is usually posted by folks who have never even seen one of these rifles let alone owned one. I had one fella on another forum tell me I was a horrible, negligent husband who didn't care about my wife's well being because I built here a Scout rifle based on the 1916 Mauser. I also have owned an FR-8 for nigh on 20 years and have repeatedly had "experts" tell me how it was not intended to be fired with .308 ammunition, etc and that it was just a matter of time until it disintegrated in my hands.

The 1916 pictured above will never be fired with anything other than middle-of-the-road loads, not because I question the veracity of the rifle, but because the older I get the more I realize that's all that's really necessary for deer hunting.

35W

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

I love Mauser sporters, always have and always will. I have thrown away a bunch of money over the years on Mauser projects. I understand the appeal of having a rifle you built yourself, but the only way to make it reasonably cost effective is if you can do the work yourself....once you start farming the work out the cost goes thru the roof, plus then it is no longer a rifle you built yourself.

I agree with the other posters, buying a rifle someone else built is the way to go. Trust me, I know as I have been on both ends of those transactions.

Another option is to buy a commercial Mauser. Below is a picture of my latest Mauser 308. I bought it from a dealer on-line for $399.99 shipped to my FFL. FFL charged me $20. So I get a new commercial mauser action with an FN style bolt shroud, d/t for scope, hinged trigger guard, double set triggers (single trigger was available for the same price), walnut??? sporter stock, swivel studs, etc for way less than I could have built the rifle for.

These rifles also give you a chance to work on them yourself. Most obvious is the stock as it seems they smeared a bit of stain on them and put them on the rifle. Most can use a few coasts of your favorite stock finish, this one I stained (not stained in pic) and put a couple of coasts of tru-oil on. Some have complained the actions are rough, and they are not as smooth as a military Mauser that has been cycled a few thousand times. I think they are fine as is but you can always spend some time polishing the thing up. 92482

That's a darn nice rifle for the money you spent. I'd be pleased as punch to own that.

[MBTcustom]

Good, I'm glad nobody got bent. Since that's the case, maybe I could just say one more thing if you will permit me.
Lot's of people build a bubba rifle because they want to save money and get into a custom rifle.

What I would suggest, is that you take your time. Hit a few gunshows. Research, so that you know your stuff. Make it so that you can spot a diamond in the rough.
I snagged an Arentine Mauser last year for $200 because it had been worked over by somebody who didn't have the class God gave an onion. Its going to make a very fine rifle.
I picked up a M48 Yugo for $50. Pretty rusted up, but completely salvageable.
Then, just a few months ago, I went to a gunshow and found a Type 38 Arisaka action laying on a table. It was missing the bolt and the bolt stop, and had a barrel on it that had been profiled with a file or something. I took a look down the bore and that sucker was actually straight! I got it for $40.
About an hour later, I found another Type 38 that had been tastefully (albeit hurriedly) sporterized. Had a decent stock on it, and appeared to be in good working order. However, it was missing any sort of marking telling what caliber it had been changed to. It was abviously 6mm somethingorother and I managed to talk the guy down to $125.
I took the two home and removed the barrels. I reworked the 308 barrel (turned out it was a 307 groove with a 1-11 twist). Once the threads were in place and I had repfrofiled it, I reamed it to 308 Palma Match.
I stripped the metal and reblued it.
Then I stripped the stock and refinished it.
I grabbed a piece of rusty rebar from my material rack (repurposed from the scrap yard) and made pillars and a new bolt handle.
I welded the bolt handle on with my torch, and shaped it with files and my beltsander.
Then I bedded the action in the stock with Devcon 10-110.
I needed a scope rail, so I got a piece of 1.5" steel (salvage yard special again) and milled it into a weaver rail that matched the radius of the reciever.
Took a Simmons scope off my muzzle loader and slid it into place.
I did all this in about a month in my spare time.
This is my bubba rifle:
95773
95774
95775
The point is, I built this whole rifle out of parts and rejects for less than $200, and I have no doubt about the strength of the action (I dang near broke a tap threading it).
I wasn't even thinking about the cost, but this ended up being the cheapest rifle I ever built.
It can be done fellers. You just gotta keep your eye's peeled.

[35 Whelen]

My, you are an arteest! Beautiful work!

35W