View Full Version : polishing stainless?
samwithacolt
12-30-2013, 03:15 PM
I am overcoming my dislike for stainless guns, so they are kinda new to me.
Just picked up an older Taurus .357 this morning, seems to be mechanically in good order. There is some kind of spots of staining or corrosion on the outside of the cylinder and in the flutes. Some of it came off with a lead/copper removing cloth.
I'm afraid of fine steel wool, as I don't want to scratch it up. Will Flitz make it mirror shiny? I want to keep it dull, but just clean it up. Any ideas?
ElDorado
12-30-2013, 03:31 PM
Try a Scotch-Brite pad or a similar product. I have a S&W Model 63 and a Ruger SP101 that I've cleaned up scratches and stains using one.
longhorn
12-30-2013, 09:29 PM
Simichrome, Flitz, Mother's Mag Polish, ScotchBrite pads. Might check the S&Wforum for good info. I'd try Flitz first for what you describe
RED333
12-30-2013, 09:35 PM
What ever you do, just keeping moving in 1 direction.
Back and forth is OK.
See if you can follow the same grain as to what is there.
osteodoc08
12-30-2013, 10:19 PM
Flitz a soft cloth and a good tv show....done.
detox
12-31-2013, 02:30 PM
Youtube has a couple of videos on how to do this, but if you mess it up you can allways send it back to Taurus
Maximumbob54
12-31-2013, 02:49 PM
Any chance what you see is actually lead sticking to the steel?
gray wolf
12-31-2013, 03:05 PM
Unless you are adapt to this kind of endever you will have a little bit of a chore trying to have the whole gun match. Be advised a high shine stainless pistol as in mirror finish or close to it, will show every little tiny scratch, even from just handling it. If your fussy, you will be chasing these little dings constantly.
However your dull finish is a little better ( easier ) to maintain.
Just to take a random grit anything and hope it will match the finish you have now is at best a good try, and you get what you get. Some gun finishes will blend with a Scotch bright pad
( there are 3 or 4 different grades of automotive Pads ) Some finishes need 300 grit, some 600 grit and some even finer. Then again some are done with a soft wire wheel, the rougher the finish the easier it is to accomplish. The best way is to disassemble the pistol, choose how you want the finish to look and do the whole pistol, but that requires more work but the time and effort is worth it for the end results.
Don't start with the heaviest grit you have, work up in grit size till your eyes tell you your happy.
Sorry for all the mouth, but you did ask, hope it helps.
samwithacolt
12-31-2013, 09:52 PM
I cleaned it again with a Hoppe's lead and rust cloth, it's a lot better. I'm afraid to use an abrasive in case it shines it up and I have to do the whole thing. It was a big step for me to buy anything stainless in the first place, so I want to keep it matte. I don't want a pimp's gun ;)
RED333
01-01-2014, 12:05 AM
If the inside the frame where you can not see unless you remove the cylinder has the same finish.
Try to work there to match the finish on the rest of the pistol.
As said before, start with fine grit and go to coarse till it matches.
44man
01-01-2014, 10:04 AM
Most stainless guns are not polished and Scotch Brite will bring them back. The high polish like the Vaquero will need a buffing wheel and I hate the high polish.
Soon you will ignore small marks and the rings at the chamber mouths. Nothing is as bad as a blue gun getting scratches or wear.
Never use steel wool on stainless.
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